4L80E build

Looks like a reconditioned "bushed" Forward Drum was installed during a previous rebuild. Sonnax makes oversize sealing rings that requires machining in the Forward Drum to .900" on a lathe.....Part# 34716-01. However, I prefer the bushed method for better seal ring support with elevated line pressures.

This core seems to have a lot of damage. It may be cheaper to find another core!

It is NOT mandatory to run a LSx case with the top/12:00 bolt boss, The 4L80E in my Camaro is 1997 model from behind a Vortec 350. Because I have an Aluminum L92 block......I run a cast aluminum LSx dust/converter cover for added rigidity. Not a concern with a iron block though!
 
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This core does have it's ISSUES!
I'm gonna see it through.
I did get going on my list at WIT
I got a long long way to go to match the price of the only other game in town $1900 with no converter.
That is completely stock and am wondering now how many of these toast parts would be reinstalled.
I have plenty of cores but I will keep going on this one till I find THE game ender.
Thank man!
 
Oh I need pics of that camaro!
67 rs was the first car I ever bought. Had 4 since
 
Das other than reprogramming kits this is the first time I have been this deep into a trans
Clinebarger is the resident expert he may know of a resource. Kinda depends on what you want to do or learn.
 
Das if you want to learn about any specific transmission buy the ATSG manual for it
 
Cline you prefer the bushed method.... could you post more about that. are you saying that when I replace this I should get a reman bushed or new?
More questions
For this application will the stock hard parts hold 500-600 hp or should I upgrade if so would you please post what stock parts should be upgraded ?
When you say dual feeding are you doing this by leaving off the second seal ring or is there more to it than that ?
There is a small oring in the back of the case that seals to an oil passage in the tail housing. I dug it out of its land but looks like it may have been a bonded ring to the orifice plug. I have the new orifice from gm but it doesn't have the oring on it. Is this oring going to be in the rebuild kit or do I need to order it separately?
Could you please post up what Sonnax and Transgo parts I will need get?
The high energy kits at wit look like they are not BW. do you have a brand preference for frictions and bands ?
Kolene steels or stock?
will I likely need the transgo 48-ACT-TL kit?
Do I want scarf cut seal rings or the uncut?
What method or tool are you using to pull all of the various bushings from their bores?
For the bushing kit and bonded pistons do I need to specify a certain brand?
Are the center support and 4th clutch bolts from WIT ok or from another supplier ?

Thanks
 
One more
The lsx dust cover you refer to. Is that the GMPP 19259119?
This rig will lay frame so I had to use the holley 302-2 pan on the 6.0 did you use the bars that run forward from the trans like some of the stock trucks had?
 
Originally Posted by P10crew
Cline you prefer the bushed method.... could you post more about that. are you saying that when I replace this I should get a reman bushed or new?
More questions
For this application will the stock hard parts hold 500-600 hp or should I upgrade if so would you please post what stock parts should be upgraded ?
When you say dual feeding are you doing this by leaving off the second seal ring or is there more to it than that ?
There is a small oring in the back of the case that seals to an oil passage in the tail housing. I dug it out of its land but looks like it may have been a bonded ring to the orifice plug. I have the new orifice from gm but it doesn't have the oring on it. Is this oring going to be in the rebuild kit or do I need to order it separately?
Could you please post up what Sonnax and Transgo parts I will need get?
The high energy kits at wit look like they are not BW. do you have a brand preference for frictions and bands ?
Kolene steels or stock?
will I likely need the transgo 48-ACT-TL kit?
Do I want scarf cut seal rings or the uncut?
What method or tool are you using to pull all of the various bushings from their bores?
For the bushing kit and bonded pistons do I need to specify a certain brand?
Are the center support and 4th clutch bolts from WIT ok or from another supplier ?

Thanks


A reconditioned "Bushed" forward drum is a MUCH cheaper option than a new OE drum.

The Input/Turbine shaft can become unstable at @550 tq, Though some live at 750 tq......Horsepower doesn't break hard parts. Torque, Weight & Shock DOES.
CK Performance Input Shaft..... HERE

A billet Forward Hub is not needed for your application.....But I highly recommend rollerizing between the Hub & Direct Drum.......
*If you have a lathe & can find a Ford AXOD Bearing part# E6DZ-7F404-A.....You can rollerize your stock Forward Hub! The bearing has long been discontinued by Ford & NOS stock has about dried-up from me & other builders buying all we can get a hold of!
*If you want to simply buy your way into a rollerized Hub.....HERE

You will need the Orificed Cup Plug with a seal!.....A new one will be included in a aftermarket seal(Paper & Rubber) kit. New 4th Clutch Housing & Center Support bolts will also be included in this kit & seem as good as OE.

CK Performance MASTER SHIFT RECALIBRATION kit HERE Includes.....
*Aluminum TH400 Direct Piston, Wider clutch work surface that is much superior than a Bonded Steel piston, Better support for High Rate Return Springs that are also included.
*High Rate Intermediate Clutch Return Springs & TH400 style spring retainer plate. The flimsy 4L80E retainers are known to distort so much it makes contact with the Intermediate Sprag retainer.
*HD Intermediate Clutch snap ring....Prevents snap-ring & case lug blow out.
*Output Rollerize components.
*New Water-Jet cut separator plate with 3rd & 4th Accumulator passages deleted.
*3rd & 4th Accumulator delete support plate.
*Self-Lubricating trust washer for between the 2 rear carriers.
*Fluted Bushing for the Overdrive Carrier Sun-Gear for better lubrication.
*Instructions on Dual Feeding & Lube-to-line Bypass included!

TransGo 48-ACT-TL is what I use on EVERY 4L80E I build, Too bad you have to buy 6 valve kits to get the tool kit. But, Yes I recommend you renew the Actuator Feed Limit bore!

This unit is just fine with regular steel plates, The only thing I use Kolene Steels on is the 3-4 Clutch on 700R4/4L60E units.

Borg Warner High Energy is what I prefer, WIT likes to push Raybestos & Exedy friction modules.....Don't let them do that! Insist on a Borg Warner Module!!!! Picture of a module I bought from WIT below.

*Sonnax part# 4L80E-LB1
*Sonnax part# 34200-05K.....Fits PR Valve bore & TCC valve bores.
*Sonnax part# 34994-17K.....End Plug for the AFL Filter, Replace the filter with the new one in the seal kit.
*Sonnax part# 34994-01K.....Drop-in TCC Regulator Valve.
*Sonnax part# 34006-SP.......OPTIONAL, Drive in Backwards from the instructions with Loctite Red on the OD, Locates the shims & bearing without measuring the reveal on the TH400 busing included in the CK calibration kit.

The OE bonded pistons are made by National, All the aftermarket ones are as well.
OE Bushings are made buy Federal Mogul, You would have to buy them individually from a dealer.....The Seal Aftermarket branded ones sold in a kit by WIT are pretty good! Clevite kits used to be readily available....Haven't seen them in a few years now.
I have machined a lot of my own bushing installers on a lathe for outside what can be done with universal bushing knocker tool kits. The long Center Support Bushing is really the only bushing that requires a special installer.
The use of a Arbor Press helps A LOT!

[Linked Image]
 
Originally Posted by P10crew
One more
The lsx dust cover you refer to. Is that the GMPP 19259119?
This rig will lay frame so I had to use the holley 302-2 pan on the 6.0 did you use the bars that run forward from the trans like some of the stock trucks had?


The dust cover part# is 15765623, 19259119 includes this cover along with a bolt kit. The Lip of the cover hangs below a 4th gen F-body pan @ 1/4".

[Linked Image]
 
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No check balls are included.
It takes over 100,000 miles for the Chromed steel check balls to do damage to the separator plate, Torlon (Plastic) check balls experience accelerated wear when used for "Shuttling" applications, The 4L80E doesn't have any Shuttling balls in the Case/Plate.....So they are fine for use in this unit. There are 2 Captured/Side-Shuttle check balls in the Valve Body that no Torlon replacement is available for, These don't normally cause seat wear issues anyway.
 
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The Sonnax ones are fine, So are the GM/AC-Delco ones for 6L80E/6L90E units.

If you decide to delete the 3rd & 4th Accumulators via the CK kit......You will only need 6 vs 8 if you leave them active.
 
Thanks
So I will have to make the decision to do the 3-4 accumulator delete .......so.............. let me ask you this.
Knowing that my rod will weigh right at 4100 and that I want quick but not rough shifts. Should I or shouldn't I?
Lol
 
I should have all of the parts cleaned and fully inspected by the end of the week end and be ready to order parts. I am making every tool needed as I go so it's a little slow . Water jetted all the parts to adapt my 1914 arbor press with the same type adjustable feet as a foot press.
 
When you Dual Feed the Direct Clutch.....It increases the fill volume of the 3rd Clutch by @ 200%, This will act as an Pseudo-Accumulator.
The 4th Clutch never needed a Accumulator, I block the 4th Accumulator on ALL 4L80E's.....Even with low stall converters.
Higher stall converters, Especially over 2800 rpm....Will absorb a lot of "Shift/Ratio Shock".

Shift feel will be easy to control by the 3rd & 4th Clutch Feed Orifice diameter in the plate, Along with retaining the Cushion/Wave Plate in the 3rd Clutch stack........
**Passenger car TH400/TH425 units used heavier/thicker Wave Plates & might be REQUIRED when using the machined CK Direct Piston. The thin 4L80E wave plate can slip under the relief-cut in the drum causing a burnt clutch or No 3rd/Reverse apply with a lower piston work surface installed height.
WIT/Transtar Part# 34127A for the thick passenger car wave plate.

I would drill the plate on your application to.......
2nd Feed (Factory Intermediate Wave, Active Accumulator, 4 Flat Faced HE Frictions)- .093"
3rd Feed (With the heavy wave, Dual Fed, Accumulator Delete, .050"-'060" clutch clearance, 5 Flat Faced HE Frictions)- .093"
4th Feed- .093"-.101"

Smooth-faced High-Energy frictions naturally reduce shift-shock......
*The Carbon-Graphite matrix retains ATF better than just about any other friction material.
*Creates a layer of ATF between the friction surface & the Steel Plate that must be dispersed before the clutch pack will fully lock/apply, Hydroplaning of the clutch disc over the steel plate is a good analogy for this phenomenon.

I've been testing Face-Grooved High Energy Frictions with some really positive results, Haven't quite worked out ALL the different combinations as of yet. The Grooves give the ATF easy escape paths, Greatly reducing surface tension & provides faster lock-up/apply times. But reduces friction area at the same time.
 
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[Linked Image]




Arbor press-foot press tooling is complete

How the h do you rotate pics on this site?
I tried it 7 different ways and every time the pics are rotated and I can't find a way to rotate them to the orientation they were taken. I tried clocking the camera and it don't follow.
 
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