4L80E build

Originally Posted by P10crew
Yes. Is having the spring, spacer and the cup washer the correct parts for this 55 inch pound test?


I only install the Spacer & E-Clip when checking band clearance, But the Bumper Spring & Return Spring shouldn't affect it!
 
Originally Posted by P10crew

CLine would you please lay out a filling procedure?


Install converter dry. Pour in 7 quarts of ATF, Start engine, Pour in an additional 4 quarts.
Allow excess ATF to run down the tube.....Place shifter in Reverse, Neutral, D4, D3, D2, L1, Return shifter to Park.
Check & adjust the level accordingly. Waiting a few minutes between Adding & Checking the ATF so fluid will evacuate the fill tube.

I remember seeing that you were going to run a Circle D 278mm Converter? So you will probably end at @13 quarts with a large cooler.

Calibrate your Dipstick! I cannot stress this enough! The HOT (@180°F) ATF level needs to be level with the Pan Rail. Scribe the dipstick if necessary!
I generally recommend checking this with the Unit, Tube, & Dipstick installed in the vehicle!

[Linked Image]
 
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Originally Posted by P10crew
Also any speed secrets you can share as far as parameters for the fitech controller?


I don't have any experience with FiTech. I specialize in OE GM trans software tuning. If you have a particular problem.....I'll help all I can.
 
Ok thanks. I got a good hook up at fitech. And they are awesome about answering on the first ringy dingy.
 
CLine I have been emailing back and fourth with fitech.
Their retro kit only uses 1 vss. The rear one. How's that work?
 
Originally Posted by P10crew
CLine I have been emailing back and fourth with fitech.
Their retro kit only uses 1 vss. The rear one. How's that work?


Most aftermarket controllers don't use the ISS Sensor.....As they don't support Ratio Error self diagnostics. The last aftermarket 4L80E Controller I installed was a Compushift & it only used the OSS Sensor.
 
Not really in the whole scheme of things.....

Having both VSS sensors gives more accurate TCC Slip RPM readings & like stated....It will give trouble codes if components are slipping (Ratio Error).

I don't blame aftermarket companies for not utilizing this feature as GM themselves didn't take full advantage of it with Adaptive Shift Strategies. Adaptives can calculate Shift Times....How long a shift takes from Command to Completion. And raise line pressure to account for friction/pump/solenoid/actuator/accumulator wear.

GM slated this technology to be used when the 4L80E was being developed but controller technology was limited at the time (Mid 1980's), Thus the reason the 4L60E development didn't include a ISS at all.

GM did use Adaptive Shift Strategies for the first time on the 4T65E, Which proved troublesome as this unit had Accumulator & EPC issues. They took everything they learned & used it in the development of the 6L80E/6L90E
 
Excellent write up on a 4L80-E. Thanks for the very detailed, an informative information..... now all I need to know is, How Did It Work Upon Install?
 
Originally Posted by clinebarger
I noticed you bought Sonnax 34006-SPB......This product hasn't been on the market for 6 months.

I recommended 34006-SP that works with the TH350 Pump Bearing when installed backwards. It's $25 dollars cheaper as the CK kit comes with the output rollerization parts.

34006-SPB comes with a larger diameter bearing & shims that go over the lip of the bushing.

Because you installed the bushing backwards.....You CANNOT use the Sonnax supplied bearing & shims!!!!!!

If I would have known you ordered the "B" version......I would have amended my instructions. If you mentioned ordering the "B" version.....I missed it & apologize for the oversight.


I guess this will only work in the 4L80-E and NOT the TH-400 as I've found out the hard way that the 34006-SP WON'T install from the rear into a TH-400 case.
Will the 34006-SPB installed from the inside of the case as per intended, work to rollerise the TH-400? or should I just install a TH-400 case bushing slightly raised enough to index the bearing? (I'll probably go with the latter method as I can't find the 34006-SPB anywhere)
 
Originally Posted by slikkrikk
(I'll probably go with the latter method as I can't find the 34006-SPB anywhere)


I ordered mine just a couple of weeks ago from Hutch (https://www.hutchtrans.com/). He may have a few more in stock.
 
Originally Posted by slikkrikk
I went the route of installing the 4L80-e front pump bushing (.700 wide)



That will work just fine.....Just make sure to Loctite it in place so it doesn't walk out. Red threadlocker works good but I prefer a high strength retaining compound like Loctite 680.
You will get adequate splash lube from the speedometer gear to lube the non-fluted 4L80E pump bushing, If this is a 4wd drive application....You may consider running a fluted TH400 case bushing.

To answer this too late.....The Governor Pin & case machining differences prevents installing the 34006-SP backwards in a TH400 case.
 
This is a great thread. Hope you have more luck than myself.

I have about 15k miles on my rebuild when my 4L80 started making weird metallic whining noise in 1st and much quieter in second.

Pulled it apart last weekend and saw wear on the rear planetary teeth.
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Luckily I caught it pretty early and there wasn't debris thrown everywhere. But I have no idea why it happened. I checked end play, but evidently not correctly. Wish this thread existed when I built it the first time haha
 
Well that's unfortunate lol. I didn't really go through them as closely as I should since it sounded fine.

Going to swap both planetaries and follow your suggested steps.

Clutches all look good. Everything except the planetary looked new still.

Im probably going to rollerize the output and the forward and throw a billet input shaft in since it's a heavy truck I use for towing but plan to make ~700 hp.
 
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