351 Windsor locked up from sitting

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Take the head off , get a maul and a block of wood
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Be sure to slightly open the oil drain plug ,
with a clear open container under, to make sure only oil comes out; any WATER that may have made its way into engine over the years (thru carb, etc) will settle in oil pan at bottom, and come out the plug FIRST, letting you know if that will be an issue. Should come out clear and obvious water (since engine hasn't been running to churn it all together) Drain and refill with cheap oil if there IS water.

I have had luck freeing an engine (when crank bolt doesn't work) by manipulating via the FLYWHEEL teeth! I took cover off down there, then used tire-iron that fit well inbetween teeth - was able to pry back AND FORTH ( crank bolt may only let you go ONE way before it LOOSENS). Careful not to break any teeth off; try one direction first (without over-doing it), then reverse. I found that the reverse direction free-ed it up (because it was already jammed forward by the starter).

Good luck, and be sure to report back!
 
i had no trouble getting a chevy 350 to turn after 15 years sitting in a farm. sprayed wd40 (yeah, i know, but it's what i had) through the spark plug holes, waited a few hours,and it turned over easily (tough initially but after working it back and forth a little it was good. i didn't even use the crank bolt if i remember right i used the alternator bolt or something because i was feeling lazy and it was easier to get to.the belt surprisingly survived that. and fresh plugs since i already had the old ones out and some fresh oil and filter and boom it started right up.
 
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I would also be inclined before starting the engine after freeing it, to pull the distributor and prime the oil pump after changing the oil and filter before starting. ARP makes a cool drill attachment for SBFs to do this.
 
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I used deep creep and ATF and then let it sit for a few days it still won't even rock it is just solid stuck looking at the plugs it was running rich and wondering if it washed the cylinders before it was shut off it made it easier for everything to seized up with lack of lubrication being up near the Rings.
 
I assume you have it in neutral and aren't trying to rotate the trans too? (I know I know, but had to ask).

A breaker bar on the crank bolt, hit it with a big rubber mallet.
 
Yeah I have the truck in neutral. I actually hit the breaker bar with a hammer and a cheater bar ended up breaking the socket. It won't even budge.
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
Yeah I have the truck in neutral. I actually hit the breaker bar with a hammer and a cheater bar ended up breaking the socket. It won't even budge.


You need better sockets
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Told you you wouldn't break that bolt, LOL! You want to vibrate it, hence the rubber mallet. A nice heavy one on a long BB would be helpful. It's this way or pulling the heads, so I'd fully explore this avenue before resorting to going that route.
 
Yeah it was just a Stanley socket so not the greatest my Snap-on and Mac Tools stay at work. I did have to borrow my Mac socket though and I did try to make it turned I have a pretty heavy Mallet and i did shock it in both directions but it didn't even flinch
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
Yeah it was just a Stanley socket so not the greatest my Snap-on and Mac Tools stay at work. I did have to borrow my Mac socket though and I did try to make it turned I have a pretty heavy Mallet and i did shock it in both directions but it didn't even flinch


Then you need a longer bar
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I'd put a pipe on it.
 
I didn't read the entire thread, but you have the plugs out, right? Try taking the belts off too. It's possible a belt driven accessory is frozen and making it even more difficult to turn over.
 
My grandpa has extra pipe on the side of the house from a chain link fence. If I were in this situation I'd grab a 6 foot pipe and pull!
 
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