1949 Ford 8N Tractor Won't Start

[GooseGestapo]

Finally someone mentions the COIL ….
Replace the points, Coil, And CONDENSOR!

I ran one for an entire summer cutting and bush hogging grass for a landlord I was renting from as part of the rent agreement.
Learned a LOT about the 8N and tractors in general.
Another thing, in W.Georgia heat, it’ll readily over heat if pushed too hard! Low range, 2nd gear with a 48” finish mower and half throttle was all it would take.

When I bought my own tractor, I got a Ford 3000 Diesel! Beast of a tractor! Still have it 16yrs later! Most trouble free piece of equipment I’ve ever owned. It was built in ‘67. Still runs like new. It lives an easy life now. Just runs a finish mower 3-4times a year, for 6-8hrs at a time. I change the oil every March and August whether it needs it or not! It still has the cartridge type filter. I kind of like the “old school tech”…

Another “hint”!
Go to NAPA and get the “Blue Streak” ignition components. They’ll last 3x longer than the Indian or Chinese stuff.

 

[ragtoplvr]

The starter will need a shunt field coil with 12 battery or expect starter drive troubles, as it hits too hard.

And you need a new 12V coil and use a 12v chrysler ballast resistor. Keeping the generator and going to 8V is much easier assuming the generator is good.

 

[Number_35]

The owner did a complete 12 V conversion, including a new coil. He's away from the farm for a week, but plans to scan and send the conversion kit instructions.

 

[Chris142]

A JD dealer would be the last place to take it. Nobody there knows how old ignition systems and carburetors work. It's a very simple tractor and should take long at all to figure out

 

[TheLastWord]

Finally someone mentions the COIL ….
Replace the points, Coil, And CONDENSOR!

I ran one for an entire summer cutting and bush hogging grass for a landlord I was renting from as part of the rent agreement.
Learned a LOT about the 8N and tractors in general.
Another thing, in W.Georgia heat, it’ll readily over heat if pushed too hard! Low range, 2nd gear with a 48” finish mower and half throttle was all it would take.

When I bought my own tractor, I got a Ford 3000 Diesel! Beast of a tractor! Still have it 16yrs later! Most trouble free piece of equipment I’ve ever owned. It was built in ‘67. Still runs like new. It lives an easy life now. Just runs a finish mower 3-4times a year, for 6-8hrs at a time. I change the oil every March and August whether it needs it or not! It still has the cartridge type filter. I kind of like the “old school tech”…

Another “hint”!
Go to NAPA and get the “Blue Streak” ignition components. They’ll last 3x longer than the Indian or Chinese stuff.

See post #3

 

[Nick1994]

$750 to tow to the dealership? I'd buy an $80 Amazon winch LINK and bolt it to some square tubing to easily put on the front of a Uhaul car hauler trailer, then winch it up and tow it anytime he needs anywhere for $55.

But just because parts are new, doesn't mean they're any good. I don't know much about old ignition systems, but might be a weak coil.

 

[mr_boring]

I start with stupid easy tests. Hook it up to a jumper and give it a shot of ether. No tools needed. No fire, start with points - as suggested a dozen times in this thread no need to spring for new ones unless you at least try to clean the old ones - a business card really does work. A dollar bill works too, but a card does it without removing anything. I fixed my gas fireplace with a dollar bill. The fibers in Uncle Sam's currency clean super well, plus it's flexible.

This might help your buddy if the simple try doesn't work.

 

[Number_35]

I start with stupid easy tests. Hook it up to a jumper and give it a shot of ether. No tools needed. No fire, start with points - as suggested a dozen times in this thread no need to spring for new ones unless you at least try to clean the old ones - a business card really does work. A dollar bill works too, but a card does it without removing anything. I fixed my gas fireplace with a dollar bill. The fibers in Uncle Sam's currency clean super well, plus it's flexible.

This might help your buddy if the simple try doesn't work.

I just watched this 2-part video. Thought it was excellent - I now have a much-better understanding of what my friend is dealing with. (We talked a week ago, and he had made some progress, but didn't have the tractor running yet.)

Thanks so much!

 

[Number_35]

Heard from my friend with the tractor - the point gap is too wide (c. 0.024" vs. the spec of 0.015"), and the plugs are slightly wide at around 0.030" (spec 0.025 - 0.028").

I doubt the plug gap is the problem, but the point gap would throw the dwell angle, and thus the timing, way off.