2022 Crosstrek Drain Plug Crush Washer Replacement

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Aug 6, 2005
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Irvine, CA
Happy Thanksgiving to all!

I did the oil change on my Crosstrek today, it's at the 6 months since I bought the car, only 2900 miles on the vehicle and factory fill oil.

I bought the crush washer to replace the one on the drain plug, not certain how to get the original one off the drain plug, so I examined the plug, looked fine, and reinstalled the plug without changing the washer, torqueing to the right spec, checked for leaks (non were present) after completing the oil change.

When I bought the washer at the dealer, they said you could change it out every other oil service.

Do you need a special tool to remove the crush washer? One side of the washer is round, the other side flat, so I am thinking the round sound installs towards the bolt head with the flat side going up against the oil pan.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

RevRider
 
I might add that I believe the round side "seats" into the bolt so the flat side is flush, so I suspect they call it a crush washer because the round side is "crushed" into the that opening.

Seem to me just a regular washer would be sufficient like all my other vehicles over the years have used.

Love my Subaru, but thinking this is over engineering the washer/drain plug. :unsure:
 
Another thought, I wonder if the factory installed a crush washer, I can't believe that it would seat inside the bolt head, thinking out loud.
 
Do you have a 14mm head on the drain bolt or 17mm? If 14 check this out. You can remove the washer with a small screw driver, You may want to consider a drain valve, no more removing drain plugs.


 
I installed the drain plug to finish the oil change, so I am stuck with out being able to photo without dumping the oil. I can say this, if that crush washer is not crushed up again the bold head, then from the factory no washer was used on this 17mm bolt.

Not certain what I should do at this point, maybe just watch it to confirm no leaks?
 
Flat side of the washer goes towards the pan.
That is incorrect I have owned and worked on a half dozen of these
including my 22 forester I just changed the oil on a couple weeks ago.

the flat side goes towards the bolt.. rounded side towards that pan.
It actually crushes.
However, I doubt it actually matters. Should work fine both ways.. but it comes from the factory rounded side towards pan.

the first time you change it.. the factory one is painted to the drain plug.. you need a small screwdriver or pick to snag it.

every change after that it pops right off.

I highly prefer not to reuse because they crush and you can tell when its done crushing makes it easy to tell how tight to get drain bolt... however my first change on the 22 forester they sold me the wrong size crush washer.. so I had to reuse it... but I do have a stack of 6 correct ones now.

For those that dont know these arent solid flat "crush" washers like you see on hyundai etc.
image_2022-11-24_205610362.png

image_2022-11-24_205630752.png
 
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In all the years of owning a car I've never replaced one.

This type has been on the last few GM vehicles I've owned and have never leaked .

View attachment 127778
Yes i love these gm drain bolts. These have never leaked on me and i don't have to tighten them much either. On the others i don't replace the washer i just reuse it and it's fine.
 
Thank you Rand for the information, it’s appreciated. Since I’ve already completed the oil change and re-using the original bolt and washer, I will wait for the next change to put a new washer on it. I bought several washers for this purpose, but I don’t want to dump about $38 in new oil I just put in.

And you are correct, there was black paint on the plug’s underside.

I’m 66, and in my 40 years of doing my own oil changes, I’ve never run across this before.

Much thanks to all responses, very definitely appreciated and Happy Thanksgiving to all.
 
In all the years of owning a car I've never replaced one.

This type has been on the last few GM vehicles I've owned and have never leaked .

View attachment 127778
I think those take minimal torque, like 18 # ft, right? You can even replace just the rubber gasket as well. I just did this on a 212K Silverado. Origonal drain plug that I could easily spin in with my fingers. Overtightened by quickie lube, of course.
 
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Flat side goes towards the bolt head, "round" side goes towards the pan. Sometimes the factory washer sticks to the bolt head due to paint. Use a box cutter blade to remove it from the drain plug.
 
Flat side goes towards the bolt head, "round" side goes towards the pan. Sometimes the factory washer sticks to the bolt head due to paint. Use a box cutter blade to remove it from the drain plug.

This is correct.

You crush the washer into the pan. Not the bolt.
 
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