2018 Honda CRV factory filled engine oil

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Why would they?

Because the break in oil has a much higher degree of contamination than the subsequent fills.

The UOAS consistently show it - and they know this.

They must not believe it affects the durability within the standard or extended warranty periods or they would bother to instruct otherwise.



UD
 
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Originally Posted By: UncleDave

Why would they?

Because the break in oil has a much higher degree of contamination than the subsequent fills.

The UOAS consistently show it - and they know this.

They must not believe it affect the durability within the standard or extended warranty period or they would instruct otherwise



UD


Honda’s thinking seems to be that the extra molybdenum prevents “hot spots”from developing on cyclinder walls while the rings are seating. These hot spots can then carbonize engine oil to the extent deposits remain that can’t be removed short of a tear down. And these deposits inhibit proper piston ring sealing.

Interesting theory, but one would think the same phenomenon would occur for all makes and no one else seems to make this recommendation. And there seem to be lots of folks that do an early change on Honda’s with no consequences. Plus Honda still has the 1 year OCI limit so lots of sanctioned OCIs will be well before the oil life monitor hits zero.
 
Yes, if we were being crazy-OCD about this, we'd make sure the FF oil is out at 500 miles, and in goes a Fram Ultra (80% at 5 microns) or MicroGreen oil filter, and a magnetic drain plug, with a half-bottle of LM MOS2 to avoid hot spots on the cylinder walls & rings.
Thats what I do.
Because its easy, and its just in case....

The particles of iron (high according to UOAs) running around in the FF are probably less than 40 microns due to the factory cellulose oil filter, and Honda thinks that is just fine on out to 7k miles or whatever it is.
 
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Yes, if we were being crazy-OCD about this, we'd make sure the FF oil is out at 500 miles, and in goes a Fram Ultra (80% at 5 microns) or MicroGreen oil filter, and a magnetic drain plug, with a half-bottle of LM MOS2 to avoid hot spots on the cylinder walls & rings.
Thats what I do.
Because its easy, and its just in case....

The particles of iron (high according to UOAs) running around in the FF are probably less than 40 microns due to the factory cellulose oil filter, and Honda thinks that is just fine on out to 7k miles or whatever it is.


I used Idemitsu Zepro Eco Gold Medalist with Moly for the same reason. It’s embarassing.
 
Originally Posted By: Danh
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Yes, if we were being crazy-OCD about this, we'd make sure the FF oil is out at 500 miles, and in goes a Fram Ultra (80% at 5 microns) or MicroGreen oil filter, and a magnetic drain plug, with a half-bottle of LM MOS2 to avoid hot spots on the cylinder walls & rings.
Thats what I do.
Because its easy, and its just in case....

The particles of iron (high according to UOAs) running around in the FF are probably less than 40 microns due to the factory cellulose oil filter, and Honda thinks that is just fine on out to 7k miles or whatever it is.


I used Idemitsu Zepro Eco Gold Medalist with Moly for the same reason. It’s embarassing.


Nice pick -Im going with the regular Idemistsu 0w-20. Im not sure If I have remorse on the choice as I heard about the Zepro after - thats some pricey juice.
Either way my japanese buddies swear by idemitsu.

OFM-I'm thinking Ill keep the FF in till about 6-7K (or until the olm gives up) - right now its at 90% with 1700 miles so on track for what I would call ridiculously high mileage on FF, but well see how some stop and go effect it.

I'll pull the A01 off in the next week or so- have both the xg7317 ultra and an MG101-7 on the shelf that fit.

My MG's are slated for genset use and I have a bunch of ultras so I think Ill start with an FU and a filtermag and see what I catch.
- of course the filtech has most of the the big crumbs in it already - I need a filter cutter that goes down to these small 2.5 inch filters my longacre won't do it, and saws are messy.


UD
 
Originally Posted By: Danh

Honda’s thinking seems to be that the extra molybdenum prevents “hot spots”from developing on cyclinder walls while the rings are seating. These hot spots can then carbonize engine oil to the extent deposits remain that can’t be removed short of a tear down. And these deposits inhibit proper piston ring sealing.

Interesting theory, but one would think the same phenomenon would occur for all makes and no one else seems to make this recommendation. And there seem to be lots of folks that do an early change on Honda’s with no consequences. Plus Honda still has the 1 year OCI limit so lots of sanctioned OCIs will be well before the oil life monitor hits zero.



Interesting concept - I'm unclear how a carbonized oil deposit on a cylinder wall wouldn't immediately be scraped off by the rings.

Ive owed honda bikes and genset products erything they make outside of autos my whole life - this is my first new honda auto.

Never heard that from anyone including guys that build compound super-turbo big blocks that make 2000 HP, but I always learn new stuff so have to keep an open mind.

Its kind of disappointing to hear about a one year life regardless - tell me that the system isnt all that sophisticated - Im told its not sensor based, but more a software penalty system like GM's. Tests have proven that as long as moisture is burned off completely at medium intervals reciprocating time is what counts not dead sump time under proper conditions synth oil can sit in a sump for years and be just fine - so its calibrated to fit a narrative.

UD
 
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I don’t change factory fills early. Back when I had my 2002 Toyota Tacoma I went 5K like the manual calls for on factory fill. 190K later not a single drop of oil burned.
 
Thank you all for responses. This is not my car. I was in Sunnyvale CA and that's where my friend bought this car recently.
 
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