2017 Honda CRV, 1.5 Turbo, Mobil AFE 0W-30

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Phoenix, AZ
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First oil analysis on this car. I decided to go with Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30. Honda calls for 0W-20 but I refuse to put that in a car with a turbo in the Arizona heat, along with a reputation for fuel dilution. Plus this engine is also rated for use with 5W-30 in other markets. I suppose the wear metals look okay but I'm a little concerned about the Viscosity @ 100ºC. Mobil 1 states 10.9 and this sample came back with 8.27 at only 3,500 miles. Also the flashpoint was pretty low at 375 when Mobil states 438. Since I purchased this car brand new, the first oil change was done at 1k then every 3k afterwards. This sample I went 3500 miles as I was a little busy. I know the method that blackstone uses for fuel dilution is worthless but the fact it shows some at all with their method leads me to believe there is some dilution happening. I'll have to use a different lab to get an accurate reading though. Previously I had been using PP 5W-30 but I never sampled it. I've been torn between these two oils as they are both dexos rated for LSPI and readily available at walmart. I wanted to use LSPI compatible oils since this engine is direct injected and turbocharged although I've never read of it having LSPI issues. I will probably use PP on the next fill and continue to do 3k intervals. In fact, its already due for an oil change next week. [Linked Image]
 
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The fuel dilution is because Honda knows Joe Dumb would never run 91 octane in it as the engineers would want you to, so they had to give it a crap tune for the engine to survive on 87 octane.
 
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You now have a 20 grade anyway ... after only 3500 miles. Maybe try a euro 5w30, like M1 ESP or Pennzoil Euro L. These start off at the top of the 30 grade range, the PP Euro L for example being 12.1 cSt at 100*c. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 is one of the thinnest 30 grades available, at 9.8 cSt at 100*c. And, I'm not sure I would use an 0w oil in Phoenix. An 0w oil starts off with a thinner base oil, to work well in extreme cold temps, and uses more additives (VII's) to maintain the 30 grade hot viscosity. You don't need that ...
 
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Phoenix, AZ
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Originally Posted by skyactiv
The fuel dilution is because Honda knows Joe Dumb would never run 91 octane in it as the engineers would want you to, so they had to give it a crap tune for the engine to survive on 87 octane.
It does run a bit smoother on premium, even gains about 1.5 mpg. I usually run 87 though as it is the wifes DD.
 
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Phoenix, AZ
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Originally Posted by CharlieBauer
Your 0w30 is now a 0w20 which is what it was spec'd for.
Imagine if I started with a 20 weight, yikes.
 
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Phoenix, AZ
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
In looking at your viscosity number, are you sure this oil isn't 0W20? Do you still have any leftover in the jug - for verification?
I still have some left over in the garage, yes it is 0W-30.
 
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Phoenix, AZ
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Originally Posted by geeman789
You now have a 20 grade anyway ... after only 3500 miles. Maybe try a euro 5w30, like M1 ESP or Pennzoil Euro L. These start off at the top of the 30 grade range, the PP Euro L for example being 12.1 cSt at 100*c. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 is one of the thinnest 30 grades available, at 9.8 cSt at 100*c. And, I'm not sure I would use an 0w oil in Phoenix. An 0w oil starts off with a thinner base oil, to work well in extreme cold temps, and uses more additives (VII's) to maintain the 30 grade hot viscosity. You don't need that ...
Thats good to know, I hadn't considered the euro formulas. I'll definately stick with a 5W-30, no more 0W. Definitely never going to use the 0W20 that honda calls for. I'm trying to stick to oils available at walmart as 5 qt juggs are cheap and more importantly readily available. Using a higher end oil such as amsoil or redline, etc. makes no sense in this car as my intervals need to kept short and other UOA's have shown those oils perform the same. At the end of the day, dilution will still happen in this engine.
 
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I'm in Canada ... not Arizona. But, here, Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 and PP Euro L 5w30 are both available in the 5 quart jugs, and go on sale with the regular M1 and PP. For a long time, they were only available in a 1 quart bottle, and were SUPER expensive.
 
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Losing 2 points or so of cSt from new oil is typical for this engine. I've seen some 0w-20 UOAs that wind up in the high 5s. So I doubt there's a defect in your particular example. 3-4 ppm of iron/1000 miles isn't a great result, but on the other hand there are lots of these engines out there and there don't seem to reports of premature failures. Maybe Honda has this all figured out but if it were mine I'd continue to use an xxw-30, ignore the Maintenance Minder's OCI, try 91/93 octane fuel and get a UOA from a lab like Oil Analyzers, Inc. And maybe cross your fingers...
 
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Good example of why a larger spread/fuel economy designed 0w30 is not a better choice than a 0w20, especially a PAO based 0w20.
 
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Looking at Pennzoil Euro, it is available in 5W-30 and cST is 11.6 and claims to be formulated for LSPI conditions. I'll be picking some of that up for the next change.
 
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Originally Posted by buster
Good example of why a larger spread/fuel economy designed 0w30 is not a better choice than a 0w20, especially a PAO based 0w20 ...
The Honda 1.5 L Turbo engine is known to dilute the oil with excess fuel, a result of the engine tune and short trips, especially when cold. How would that be any different with a PAO based 0w20 ? It wouldn't ...
 
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Originally Posted by buster
Good example of why a larger spread/fuel economy designed 0w30 is not a better choice than a 0w20, especially a PAO based 0w20.
Guess I missed that discussion. Why are PAO-heavy formulas not good for fuel diluters?
 
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Originally Posted by geeman789
Originally Posted by buster
Good example of why a larger spread/fuel economy designed 0w30 is not a better choice than a 0w20, especially a PAO based 0w20 ...
The Honda 1.5 L Turbo engine is known to dilute the oil with excess fuel, a result of the engine tune and short trips, especially when cold. How would that be any different with a PAO based 0w20 ? It wouldn't ...
I'm aware of the 1.5L and fuel dilution. The more VII's, the greater % of viscosity loss when fuel is present. Using a 10w30 or a 0w20 that will have less VII's should result in less overall loss in viscosity in proportion to the starting viscosity of the oil.
 
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Originally Posted by Danh
Originally Posted by buster
Good example of why a larger spread/fuel economy designed 0w30 is not a better choice than a 0w20, especially a PAO based 0w20.
Guess I missed that discussion. Why are PAO-heavy formulas not good for fuel diluters?
A PAO or even Group III based oil with less VII's is more ideal than a 0w40/30 that has more VII's. Unless the VII's are very expensive and of superior quality.
 
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