Switch to Euro oils. Go to Wal mart, get Castrol 0W40 or M1 0W40FS. Do 5K, do UOA and see.
2016 Honda Civic 1.5T TGDI..DILUTED!
- Thread starter dblshock
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Switch to Euro oils. Go to Wal mart, get Castrol 0W40 or M1 0W40FS. Do 5K, do UOA and see.
How's that going to help fuel dilution?
Because they are thicker oils and generally much more shear stable. If problem still persist, at least you will have some cushion since you do not have that much room for shearing with these "water" based W20 oils.
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Switch to Euro oils. Go to Wal mart, get Castrol 0W40 or M1 0W40FS. Do 5K, do UOA and see.
How's that going to help fuel dilution?
Because they are thicker oils and generally much more shear stable. If problem still persist, at least you will have some cushion since you do not have that much room for shearing with these "water" based W20 oils.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
I would have stayed with the recommended oil viscosity for the duration of the oci and used that as a baseline. Albeit anecdotal and a small sample size, A quick browse of some Honda boards shows dilution in the 1.5T no matter the oil. But I've yet to see one with poor wear numbers.
Be interesting to see how that dealer conversation goes when they realize the deviation from recommended viscosity.
I wouldn't share current UOA with dealer.
I would change oil to recommended viscosity, and not use additives of any kind.
Keep an eye on oil level and do a UOA at 4,000.
In effect a complete reset.
Then share any concerning info with dealer.
I would change oil to recommended viscosity, and not use additives of any kind.
Keep an eye on oil level and do a UOA at 4,000.
In effect a complete reset.
Then share any concerning info with dealer.
There are a few UOAs for the new Civic on one of the forums. Those I saw were from Blackstone, so the fuel dilution % is pretty meaningless, but in all cases the 0w-20 had sheared/diluted to 6.2cSt or so, suggesting a good amount of fuel was present. So I doubt the OP is alone here and this could be a "feature" rather than a problem.
And I agree with the "reset" approach. Try it and see what happens.
Rather than show the UOA to the dealer and set the table for a possible warranty argument, I'd suggest a phone call expressing concern about rising oil level and a strong fuel odor from the crankcase. See if they've heard of this or have suggestions. Then explain your plan to have a UOA performed and see if they'd have an interest in seeing it. Make sure whatever you send to the dealer mentions only 0w-20.
And I agree with the "reset" approach. Try it and see what happens.
Rather than show the UOA to the dealer and set the table for a possible warranty argument, I'd suggest a phone call expressing concern about rising oil level and a strong fuel odor from the crankcase. See if they've heard of this or have suggestions. Then explain your plan to have a UOA performed and see if they'd have an interest in seeing it. Make sure whatever you send to the dealer mentions only 0w-20.
Last edited:
actually runs just fine, efficiency is on par..I'll hang with the 40W oils @ 5-6k into the summer as I think the dilution may be due to the cold like a Ford..but ya, if it goes back to the dealer it will go with a spec oil fill. I don't see the juiced fuel being a problem since the particles are super low and the heavier 5/30 oil wouldn't cause dilution, would it?
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Be interesting to see how that dealer conversation goes when they realize the deviation from recommended viscosity.
He can then switch to more stout 0W20 oils such as BMW TPT or some others that meet ACEA A5/B5.
Be interesting to see how that dealer conversation goes when they realize the deviation from recommended viscosity.
He can then switch to more stout 0W20 oils such as BMW TPT or some others that meet ACEA A5/B5.
Yeah, just use oil without any additives.
Do the aforementioned "reset". I agree that the UOA looks decent otherwise, but this needs to be addressed while it is still under warranty. It is very likely it is going to get better with age.
Kind of shocked at the list of issues with the '16 Civics from owners:
https://www.10thcivicforum.com/forum/169-2016-honda-civic-problems-issues/
If you haven't yet, you may want to consider buying the HondaCare extended warranty if you are planning on keeping this a while.
Kind of shocked at the list of issues with the '16 Civics from owners:
https://www.10thcivicforum.com/forum/169-2016-honda-civic-problems-issues/
If you haven't yet, you may want to consider buying the HondaCare extended warranty if you are planning on keeping this a while.
Originally Posted By: dblshock
I can't imagine what a 0/20 UOA would look like after 12k/15% OLM up in the cold, 3-4 rounds of that and wear issues would become clearly noticable.
I couldn't agree more. Long term engine wear is what matters, not short term UOA results that is clearly showing this NEW engine isn't running as efficient as it should be and although it SEEMS to be handling the fuel dilution FOR NOW, once the anti wear and anti friction coatings are washed off the engine internals, wear rates will increase as the engine ages and I can't see this being a happy engine after 200k+ and 10-15 years of use.
Older Honda engines from the 90s seem to be healthy and run good. The same can't be said for these engines in 10 years if the fuel will cause excessive wear. I can picture these leaving a cloud of smoke at the intersection because the piston rings are shot and the turbo is failing because it's being lubricated with fuel and not oil.
Honda clearly wants you to buy a new vehicle once your warranty expires.
You keeping this thing for 10 year and 200k+ does them no good. They need sales. Hahaha.
I can't imagine what a 0/20 UOA would look like after 12k/15% OLM up in the cold, 3-4 rounds of that and wear issues would become clearly noticable.
I couldn't agree more. Long term engine wear is what matters, not short term UOA results that is clearly showing this NEW engine isn't running as efficient as it should be and although it SEEMS to be handling the fuel dilution FOR NOW, once the anti wear and anti friction coatings are washed off the engine internals, wear rates will increase as the engine ages and I can't see this being a happy engine after 200k+ and 10-15 years of use.
Older Honda engines from the 90s seem to be healthy and run good. The same can't be said for these engines in 10 years if the fuel will cause excessive wear. I can picture these leaving a cloud of smoke at the intersection because the piston rings are shot and the turbo is failing because it's being lubricated with fuel and not oil.
Honda clearly wants you to buy a new vehicle once your warranty expires.
You keeping this thing for 10 year and 200k+ does them no good. They need sales. Hahaha.
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: dblshock
I can't imagine what a 0/20 UOA would look like after 12k/15% OLM up in the cold, 3-4 rounds of that and wear issues would become clearly noticable.
I couldn't agree more. Long term engine wear is what matters, not short term UOA results that is clearly showing this NEW engine isn't running as efficient as it should be and although it SEEMS to be handling the fuel dilution FOR NOW, once the anti wear and anti friction coatings are washed off the engine internals, wear rates will increase as the engine ages and I can't see this being a happy engine after 200k+ and 10-15 years of use.
Older Honda engines from the 90s seem to be healthy and run good. The same can't be said for these engines in 10 years if the fuel will cause excessive wear. I can picture these leaving a cloud of smoke at the intersection because the piston rings are shot and the turbo is failing because it's being lubricated with fuel and not oil.
Honda clearly wants you to buy a new vehicle once your warranty expires.
You keeping this thing for 10 year and 200k+ does them no good. They need sales. Hahaha.
Yep, not your mothers Honda engines any longer.
Originally Posted By: dblshock
I can't imagine what a 0/20 UOA would look like after 12k/15% OLM up in the cold, 3-4 rounds of that and wear issues would become clearly noticable.
I couldn't agree more. Long term engine wear is what matters, not short term UOA results that is clearly showing this NEW engine isn't running as efficient as it should be and although it SEEMS to be handling the fuel dilution FOR NOW, once the anti wear and anti friction coatings are washed off the engine internals, wear rates will increase as the engine ages and I can't see this being a happy engine after 200k+ and 10-15 years of use.
Older Honda engines from the 90s seem to be healthy and run good. The same can't be said for these engines in 10 years if the fuel will cause excessive wear. I can picture these leaving a cloud of smoke at the intersection because the piston rings are shot and the turbo is failing because it's being lubricated with fuel and not oil.
Honda clearly wants you to buy a new vehicle once your warranty expires.
You keeping this thing for 10 year and 200k+ does them no good. They need sales. Hahaha.
Yep, not your mothers Honda engines any longer.
No need for a turbo in a Civic. Silly that Honda would decide to have a turbo instead of a larger displacement NA engine.
- Status
Similar threads
