2015 Accord Sport steering wheel shake when braking

[edyvw]

Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by edyvw

IDK how are rotors on Accord, but on my in-laws Pilot they are absolute POS, and they insist on Honda rotors every time I have to change their rotors, which is pretty much every time we visit them (and they are super slow drivers).

Interesting. What was the runout measurements as mounted? Which pads were used?



They constantly have vibration issues. Always Honda rotors and Honda pads, bought at dealership.
While they are slow drivers, they do ride brakes as form of entertainment, I guess.
I never measured anything. Rotors always look new to naked eye.

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted by InhalingBullets
Thanks for all of the advice everyone. I ended up with some Stoptech evolution pads and regular Centric rotors and got them installed right quick on Saturday morning before it hit °90F in my shop/garage. In my deconstruction of the pads and rotors I found the right side had an unknown aftermarket pad set with a Honda rotor and the left had a Honda rotor and pads which lead me to believe that there had been an issue before and they just slapped pads on it. Afterwards I did a turkey baster drain and fill of the brake reservoir with new dot 4 fluid. I followed the Stoptech recommendation for seating/wearing in the pads and rotors which gave my poor wife motion sickness, but at least I was having fun! The steering wheel shake is gone and the car is braking much smoother with zero pull.

You did not achieve anything meaningful.
Get pressure pump.

 

[InhalingBullets]

Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by InhalingBullets
Thanks for all of the advice everyone. I ended up with some Stoptech evolution pads and regular Centric rotors and got them installed right quick on Saturday morning before it hit °90F in my shop/garage. In my deconstruction of the pads and rotors I found the right side had an unknown aftermarket pad set with a Honda rotor and the left had a Honda rotor and pads which lead me to believe that there had been an issue before and they just slapped pads on it. Afterwards I did a turkey baster drain and fill of the brake reservoir with new dot 4 fluid. I followed the Stoptech recommendation for seating/wearing in the pads and rotors which gave my poor wife motion sickness, but at least I was having fun! The steering wheel shake is gone and the car is braking much smoother with zero pull.

You did not achieve anything meaningful.
Get pressure pump.


Of course I did, I pulled out 14oz of old fluid and made myself feel better.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by edyvw

IDK how are rotors on Accord, but on my in-laws Pilot they are absolute POS, and they insist on Honda rotors every time I have to change their rotors, which is pretty much every time we visit them (and they are super slow drivers).

Interesting. What was the runout measurements as mounted? Which pads were used?



They constantly have vibration issues. Always Honda rotors and Honda pads, bought at dealership.
While they are slow drivers, they do ride brakes as form of entertainment, I guess.
I never measured anything. Rotors always look new to naked eye.


OK so you repeat the pattern of replace and shudder over and over, and never do the parallelism and runout measurements as shown in the Honda Factory Service Manual, so often discussed here as two of the known causes of shudder, and yet you feel free to flame Honda quality and not even consider your own workmanship?

OK...

 

[edyvw]

Quote
OK so you repeat the pattern of replace and shudder over and over, and never do the parallelism and runout measurements as shown in the Honda Factory Service Manual, so often discussed here as two of the known causes of shudder, and yet you feel free to flame Honda quality and not even consider your own workmanship?

OK...

I do blame Honda quality when brand new rotors and pads vibrate after 10k. It is quality issue. In the end, same happened twice when Honda replaced rotors and pads.
So, feel free to blame me and Honda dealership.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted by edyvw
Quote
OK so you repeat the pattern of replace and shudder over and over, and never do the parallelism and runout measurements as shown in the Honda Factory Service Manual, so often discussed here as two of the known causes of shudder, and yet you feel free to flame Honda quality and not even consider your own workmanship?

OK...

I do blame Honda quality when brand new rotors and pads vibrate after 10k. It is quality issue. In the end, same happened twice when Honda replaced rotors and pads.
So, feel free to blame me and Honda dealership.

It is never the role of a true BITOGer to do things only as well as a dealership.

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by edyvw
Quote
OK so you repeat the pattern of replace and shudder over and over, and never do the parallelism and runout measurements as shown in the Honda Factory Service Manual, so often discussed here as two of the known causes of shudder, and yet you feel free to flame Honda quality and not even consider your own workmanship?

OK...

I do blame Honda quality when brand new rotors and pads vibrate after 10k. It is quality issue. In the end, same happened twice when Honda replaced rotors and pads.
So, feel free to blame me and Honda dealership.

It is never the role of a true BITOGer to do things only as well as a dealership.

You mentioned TSB. So not only Honda does not put quality rotors, but they do not fallow their own TSB?

 

[HangFire]

I think I mentioned FSM Factory Service Manual. In my Pilot FSM there are instructions on how to do a Pad Slap. But there are also instructions on how to check rotor parallelism and runout.

My Pilot ran its first set of factory rotors to over 150K with zero shudder, dealer service records first owner had pad slap done there around 90K. I changed to NAPA rotors just for price and convenience, still no shudder until retired with bad transmission at 214K. Last 20K was hard driving [censored] commute miles.

To answer your question, I've never seen a dealer or shop measure runout, or heard of it amongst my friends. It is more profitable to blame the owner for rotor warpage, or bad parts, and slap on new parts. Measuring takes 5 min per rotor tech time, with zero reward for the tech.

When I did my Pilot front brakes, one rotor went on crooked until I corrected a burr at the hub retention screw hole. If I had ignored that, I'm sure I would not have had another happy 60K+ shudder free miles like I did.

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted by HangFire
I think I mentioned FSM Factory Service Manual. In my Pilot FSM there are instructions on how to do a Pad Slap. But there are also instructions on how to check rotor parallelism and runout.

My Pilot ran its first set of factory rotors to over 150K with zero shudder, dealer service records first owner had pad slap done there around 90K. I changed to NAPA rotors just for price and convenience, still no shudder until retired with bad transmission at 214K. Last 20K was hard driving [censored] commute miles.

To answer your question, I've never seen a dealer or shop measure runout, or heard of it amongst my friends. It is more profitable to blame the owner for rotor warpage, or bad parts, and slap on new parts. Measuring takes 5 min per rotor tech time, with zero reward for the tech.

When I did my Pilot front brakes, one rotor went on crooked until I corrected a burr at the hub retention screw hole. If I had ignored that, I'm sure I would not have had another happy 60K+ shudder free miles like I did.

I do not want to know what kind of pad material is Honda using when one can make 150k. Though, brake performance indicates that.
I do not think it is runout. It shows up only after 10-15k. Probably next time I will try EBC brakes, will have to convince them though. EBC brakes worked on same issue on my Land Cruiser and Sienna.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by HangFire
I think I mentioned FSM Factory Service Manual. In my Pilot FSM there are instructions on how to do a Pad Slap. But there are also instructions on how to check rotor parallelism and runout.

My Pilot ran its first set of factory rotors to over 150K with zero shudder, dealer service records first owner had pad slap done there around 90K. I changed to NAPA rotors just for price and convenience, still no shudder until retired with bad transmission at 214K. Last 20K was hard driving [censored] commute miles.

To answer your question, I've never seen a dealer or shop measure runout, or heard of it amongst my friends. It is more profitable to blame the owner for rotor warpage, or bad parts, and slap on new parts. Measuring takes 5 min per rotor tech time, with zero reward for the tech.

When I did my Pilot front brakes, one rotor went on crooked until I corrected a burr at the hub retention screw hole. If I had ignored that, I'm sure I would not have had another happy 60K+ shudder free miles like I did.

I do not want to know what kind of pad material is Honda using when one can make 150k. Though, brake performance indicates that.
I do not think it is runout. It shows up only after 10-15k. Probably next time I will try EBC brakes, will have to convince them though. EBC brakes worked on same issue on my Land Cruiser and Sienna.


Runout based shudder indeed shows up around 10K, at least it did for me on my first Dakota, twice. Part of the learning curve that brought me to actually read my FSM and apply what I learned there.