2013 Yukon 150K 5.3L 10K OCI Mobile 1 5W-30

S

Sedgehammer

Joined
Jan 17, 2023
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How do. This is the first analysis. The viscosity came up as 7.8 based the the cSt 100C test. The 10K OCI has a fair number of idling hours. More than would be normal. Since I'd like to stay with the 10k OCI, I should go to a heavier weight oil. Would 10W-40 be sufficient? Also, what is an acceptable viscosity when oil is changed? Thanks

I was going to post this as a PDF, but Bob doesn't like them apparently ........ :eek:

Oil Analysis 2013 Yukon 150K .png
 
Lots of iron, copper and aluminum. Yea I would go to a Euro 5w-40. Viscosity at 7.8 and base number at 1.7 I would, also, shorten the OCI
 
It does seem that the Euro xW-40's are are a good choice, as they are among the handful of remaining "off the shelf" oils with robust additive packages. I don't like 10K OCI's in passenger car engines (including most pickup trucks) with non robust oils. I know Mobil is now claiming 20K miles with their AN base stock "EP" oils. However, the additive packages in these oils are half what they used to be, and it shows. The "idea" seems to be that AN's are very good actual lubricants (with the exception of less than superb pour points) and that is enough.
 
What was the OLM's recommendation? What were your engine hours? Based on the viscosity, there was probably significant fuel dilution. Checking your air filtration system and cutting the OCI in half is probably a good starting point.
 
ka9mnx said:
Lots of iron, copper and aluminum. Yea I would go to a Euro 5w-40. Viscosity at 7.8 and base number at 1.7 I would, also, shorten the OCI
Click to expand...
What's the benefit from the Euro oil? Just lessor metals?
What about 5W-50 Amsoil Signature Series?
What would most likely happen if I stayed with an non Euro oil and just went to a 10W40 Mobile 1 High Milage or 15W50?
The 10K OCI works well for what we do. Of course, if that really can't work, I'd have to change it
Side note, we've always done 10K OCI and have never had an internal engine issue. Gone over 300k on several motors and high 200's on the rest before being sold as running vehicles
 
jhellwig said:
If it still has the AFM I wouldn’t go past 5k no mater what oil. At least go by the oil life monitor.
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AFM?
The OLF is 7,500 miles approximately and the OLM is just the rotations of the engine
Full Synthetic oil is only good for 5k, where is non syn is good for 3.5K? Seems odd at that
 
Active fuel management or displacement on demand. Lifters like to die and the rings get nasty on the deactivating cylinders. The longer the oil changes goes the more they seem to drink and the more crap floating around to stick a lifter.

OLM is not just on revolutions. It is a calculation based on several things.
 
jhellwig said:
Active fuel management or displacement on demand. Lifters like to die and the rings get nasty on the deactivating cylinders. The longer the oil changes goes the more they seem to drink and the more crap floating around to stick a lifter.

OLM is not just on revolutions. It is a calculation based on several things.
Click to expand...
On the AFM. The 2013 GMC 5.3 shows to have it, but mine sure doesn't sound like it when idling or driving under light conditions. Any way to check for sure?

Yes, you're right. It just doesn't test the oil, but based on rpm's, rotations and related
 
Sedgehammer said:
What's the benefit from the Euro oil? Just lessor metals?
What about 5W-50 Amsoil Signature Series?
What would most likely happen if I stayed with an non Euro oil and just went to a 10W40 Mobile 1 High Milage or 15W50?
The 10K OCI works well for what we do. Of course, if that really can't work, I'd have to change it
Side note, we've always done 10K OCI and have never had an internal engine issue. Gone over 300k on several motors and high 200's on the rest before being sold as running vehicles
Click to expand...
Euro, and Euro engine manufacturer specs are far more demanding and exceed American API specs.
Amsoil usually doesn't carry API or ACEA (euro) specs. You have to trust what they say (although good oil).
Your UOA proves (to me) that 10k OCI's are too long for your vehicle.
Also as others have mentioned, I think you need a new air filter.
 
Sedgehammer said:
How do. This is the first analysis. The viscosity came up as 7.8 based the the cSt 100C test. The 10K OCI has a fair number of idling hours. More than would be normal. Since I'd like to stay with the 10k OCI, I should go to a heavier weight oil. Would 10W-40 be sufficient? Also, what is an acceptable viscosity when oil is changed?
Click to expand...
Avg viscosity range for 5w-30 at 100*C is 9.3 to 12.5, so it thinned out, maybe from fuel dilution (idling)? Iron is acceptable but copper and aluminum should be half of what they are or less. TBN of 1.7 is too low. I suggest no more than 6000 mile oci, or 1000 miles per qt of sump capacity.

I run 0w-20 in my 07 Denali w/6.2L. I'll be posting my latest results in a day or two. I've posted 5 reports on BITOG for my Denali. He's my results from last summer: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...0-k-mi-6-3k-miles-on-amsoil-asm-0w-20.359101/
 
Sedgehammer said:
It has AFM........ o_O
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Cycle through the DIC till you get to the instant economy. Idling it will say V8. When you meet the right conditions driving it will change to V4. Usually steadily cruising level to slightly down hill or kick the cruise off going down an off ramp without hitting the brakes and it should switch. Most of them will not kick back to V8 like they are supposed to when going slowly and you very easily get into the throttle. You will know when you are accelerating in V4 and when it switches back to V8.
 
Sedgehammer said:
What's the benefit from the Euro oil? Just lessor metals?
What about 5W-50 Amsoil Signature Series?
What would most likely happen if I stayed with an non Euro oil and just went to a 10W40 Mobile 1 High Milage or 15W50?
The 10K OCI works well for what we do. Of course, if that really can't work, I'd have to change it
Side note, we've always done 10K OCI and have never had an internal engine issue. Gone over 300k on several motors and high 200's on the rest before being sold as running vehicles
Click to expand...
Be careful sharing those facts around here. These experts think your timing chain is gone by 60k if you have any shearing in your UOA, and you don’t understand motor oil if you think otherwise. Lol

Nice 10k report. Looks like you need a better oil than M1 5w30, that iron looks high. What duty are these Yukons getting? High revs?
 
Sedgehammer said:
How do. This is the first analysis. The viscosity came up as 7.8 based the the cSt 100C test. The 10K OCI has a fair number of idling hours. More than would be normal. Since I'd like to stay with the 10k OCI, I should go to a heavier weight oil. Would 10W-40 be sufficient? Also, what is an acceptable viscosity when oil is changed? Thanks

I was going to post this as a PDF, but Bob doesn't like them apparently ........ :eek:

View attachment 136040
Click to expand...
Well, this isn't a great report for 10,000 miles.
Per thousand miles, the ones that stand out:
Iron: 7.2ppm
Copper: 2.1ppm
Aluminum: 1.0ppm
Silicon: 2.9ppm

I would suspect that the last one may be causing the other ones. You said you changed the air filter, was it seated properly when you removed it? Can you check your intake plumbing for leaks and dust? This does look like abrasive wear with the high iron, though I'd have expected aluminum to be a bit higher. The presence of chromium is ring material, again pointing to abrasive wear.

Viscosity is also low, if the current PDS is accurate, it started at 10.75cSt and ended at 7.8, that's a 27% loss of viscosity and put the end product in the xW-16 or xW-20 range depending on what the HTHS ended up looking like.

The viscosity loss may be due to fuel (which could also be a contributor to your elevated metals), so next time around I'd use a lab that does GC fuel to find out. This lab didn't give you flashpoint or a fuel%, so you are very much flying blind in that department.
 
Thanks everyone
Has a new air filter now. I did/do the walmart oil change. They didn't say it wasn't. I suspect it was seated properly. I didn't check for that, but am in under the hood to some degree. I think it the air box cover would be humped up or off kilter if it was. In the winter it warms up before wife n kids all pile in. Summer same thing, but the other way. It gets hot here, yeah, I know, spoiled. That's where the idling comes from. I grew up in north central WI. Hate winter. Should've moved further south, but here for now (Oklahoma)
Miles are runnin the kids to and fro. Some towing, but limited. I use the 8.1 for that. Runnin to town for that, this and a few other things. Some long trips, but now since family is smaller, we run my wife's kia hybrid. I do drive fast tho, a good 10-20 above on the country roads and 80-90 on the highway. Turnpike here is 80 in places
I will change the oil when the OLM tells me too next time, I think
 
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