1MZ-FE, cold weather and short tripping

[JohnnyJohnson]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
This is one of the few cars that requires 3k oil changes. I'd use any full synthetic for 3k. Napa often has their house brand synthetic for $3-4/qt.


They just had their full synthetic 5 quart jugs on sale last month for $18 and change. I'm kicking myself I didn't pick up a couple jugs.

 

[53' Stude]

I've had success in my 09' Camry LE with different engine using Synpower/VWB sand straight DELO 10w30

 

[FlyNavyP3]

Welcome to the forum. Where in the UP are you at? I was born and raised in Marquette.

I have a 2004 Lexus that spend the first 12 years of its life in Marquette, it has the 3MZFE engine that is a derivative of your 1MZ, it has lived on a steady diet of 5w30 Synthetic (mostly M1) for the majority of its life. As it approaches 170,000 miles no issues to report.

I probably wouldn't worry about the time the oil is in service, but I see no reason why 3,000-5,000 miles wouldn't be appropriate with a quality conventional or Synthetic.

You can go one step further and replace the rear valve cover with the updated valve cover/pcv system if not already equipped.

I'm not sure that these engines really deserved the sludge reputation that they were given, in my experience they're fantastic engines with long service lives and minimal maintenance. My 3MZ routinely returns single digit wear metals on both Synthetic and conventional oils.

Again welcome!

 

[JMJNet]

Another variable in the 1MZ engine is the PCV.

May want to check that part at least once a year.
That PCV is too small for that engine.

The PCV is different in 3MZ engine, it is much larger threaded PCV.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: Goodkat
That's why I was thinking I should change my oil every 3-4 months regardless of what oil I'm running.


No, that simply isn't necessary at all.

Calendar months don't have the effect that miles/hours do.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

I've used Mobil I 0W-30 and 0W-20 in my 1MZ-FE since the first oil change and there is now sludge at all in the engine. Use the 5000 mile/6 months OEM maintenance schedule and do all required maintenance on time. I try to get my 04 out on the highway for an hour or two at least every two months to get the oil temperature up so that all the crud in the old boiled off. With a little care, this engine will go several hundred thousand miles.

 

[mooferz]

Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
You can go one step further and replace the rear valve cover with the updated valve cover/pcv system if not already equipped.

Unfortunately as OP has the 2001 Camry with the Non-VVTi 1MZ, the later valve covers won't fit.

FWIW there are multiple versions of the 1MZ VVTI/3MZ rear valve covers with slightly different baffle designs. They have numbers cast into them depending on their revision.
IIRC the highest number/latest revision I've seen is 19.

For my 1MZ, I've been doing 3000-4000 miles with conventional, and 4000-5000 miles with synthetic. Though we don't really have much of a winter in Texas; unlike OP I could run straight 30 all year.

This reminds me, I've got a junkyard spin-on PCV rear valve cover I still need to put in my ES300.

 

[Goodkat]

Originally Posted By: Gebo
I'd run a full synthetic. I'd use the brand I felt good about. I don't think that the brand makes a tremendous difference. I swap around but I always go back to this one brand because I have confidence in that brand. Even though my brain tells me different. I just feel better using a particular brand.

I believe the key to protecting your investment is in your OCI. You aren't driving many miles but you have a lot of really short trips do I'd change my oil every 6 months. Change it in sept-October and again in February-March. That way you could run a 0w-whatever in winter and a 5w-something in summer. (I'm not a big fan of 0w-something as they don't make me "feel" goog

)


We're on the same page. The more responses I get the more I think about doing 6 month intervals with full synthetic. I'll try the 0w-30 Mobil 1 I just got from October through March using A Mobil filter. Depending how Mobil goes I might stick with it or go with PP 5W-30 probably using a Mobil filter again or an equivalent. I've never used a 0w-XX so we'll what happens. I think the important thing will be sticking with the recommended 30 weight.

 

[Goodkat]

Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Welcome to the forum. Where in the UP are you at? I was born and raised in Marquette.

I have a 2004 Lexus that spend the first 12 years of its life in Marquette, it has the 3MZFE engine that is a derivative of your 1MZ, it has lived on a steady diet of 5w30 Synthetic (mostly M1) for the majority of its life. As it approaches 170,000 miles no issues to report.

I probably wouldn't worry about the time the oil is in service, but I see no reason why 3,000-5,000 miles wouldn't be appropriate with a quality conventional or Synthetic.

You can go one step further and replace the rear valve cover with the updated valve cover/pcv system if not already equipped.

I'm not sure that these engines really deserved the sludge reputation that they were given, in my experience they're fantastic engines with long service lives and minimal maintenance. My 3MZ routinely returns single digit wear metals on both Synthetic and conventional oils.

Again welcome!


Thanks for the welcome! I'm from Escanaba. I used to plenty of mountain biking up in Marquette but haven't much the past couple of years. Their tail system is now some of the best in the county. Marquette is nice. Esky isn't bad except for the ever growing meth problem.....

I'm not aware of this valve cover/PCV update. Can you give me more information on this?

 

[Goodkat]

Originally Posted By: JMJNet
Another variable in the 1MZ engine is the PCV.

May want to check that part at least once a year.
That PCV is too small for that engine.

The PCV is different in 3MZ engine, it is much larger threaded PCV.


My first oil change I put a new PCV valve in. I don't know old the one pulled out was but it looked fine and I could blow through it. It's a cheap part though and replacing it ever couple of years is cheap insurance.

 

[Big Smoke]

Originally Posted By: JMJNet
Another variable in the 1MZ engine is the PCV.

May want to check that part at least once a year.
That PCV is too small for that engine.

The PCV is different in 3MZ engine, it is much larger threaded PCV.


+1 to this. Changed mine every 30k no matter what and inspected every other oil change. Best to go OEM and also change the grommet periodically. They can be ordered on line from a discount Toyota parts dealer.

I just sold a 99 with a 1MZ-FE that had 301k on it. 5k oil changes with any synthetic that was on sale. At times I was changing oil once a month but I stuck to 5k no matter my driving conditions. I ran M1 0w-40 last winter and the engine seemed to love it. Easy starts and very smooth. I had this oil in there during a January trip to Wisconsin.

Not sure if it was unique to the 99 but the car consumed several front calipers due to sticking.

 

[Goodkat]

Thanks again everyone for the input and opinions. It's valued and appreciated.

I said it another post but I'll do it again as a "declaration of an official maintenance plan."

I'll change to Mobil 1 0w30 in the beginning of October and run it through March. Then switch to a full Synthetic 5w30 that will run from April through September. All the while I'll be using an extended life filter. I fill up with gas about two times a month so I'll turn those into little trips so the car gets some highway use. Plus the wife and I do road trips every now and then anyway. I'll also be inspecting my PCV valve periodically. At some point I'll send an oil sample in for reassurance.

I have one scheduled week off per month and I've been making it a habit or ritual to check the fluids in our cars on my week off. It makes it easy and consistent for keeping an eye on things.

I've also been sucking the steering fluid out with my Might Vac hand pump and filling it with Maxlife. I've done it about 4 times now. I did a dump and fill with my tranny/diff fluid twice. The first time was with Maxlife but the second was with Transmax IMV. After doing some research I've decided to stick with transmax. I'll do a dump and fill one more time before winter and next summer I'll pull the fluid return line and change all the tranny fluid out. A month ago I completely rebuilt the brakes with Centric parts, Akebono pads and Bleed the brake system. A new Interstate Battery was installed the day I test drove the car. Within the next year I'll have the water pump, coolant and timing belt replaced. Next month I'm having the altenator rebuilt because the output voltage is a little low and there are other symptoms as well.

She'll be in fine condition after all that! The car drives great and has plenty of life left.

 

[Oro_O]

What has not been mentioned here is how hard these engines are on oil filters. It's worth noting.

Take a look at where it is and you see why. I run Mobil 1 10w-30 for 7.5k OCI with great results. 280k and it runs like new, only engine work was new OCV's about 40k ago. 12 ozs of oil use every 7.5k, that has changed little over the last 200k miles.

The thing isto listen to the start up carefully and change filters when I you hear dry starts. Wix, Motorcraft, etc., - nothing would last. They were getting cooked there perfectly positioned between the 2nd bank header and the cat. The filter is just smoked every drive. I am now running a Fram Ultra and it is still working well at 11k miles (left it in at the last OCI). Listen to the engine and it will tell you what you need to know.

I heartily 2nd the opinion on ATF to go with Transmax IMV; I have better results with that than Maxlife. If you can get it, get the Castrol HM. Slightly thicker, better add pac, and good on these older DexIII based transmissions at this age/mileage. Maxlife is too thin (as would also be any Dex VI) for these, they are not programmed for it nor is their TCC designed for the PWM techniques the later years/transmissions employed. Def. go with the IMV or HM Castrol or similar.

Also, unless you are buying non-ethanol gas, consider an UCL in each tank. I use 3ozs/10gallons of MMO each tank and the car loves it. Works out to an added $.05/gallon (I buy it in quarts at Walmart) and it more than pays for itself in performance and added mpgs.

Toyotanation.com and Clublexus.com have knowledgeable forums that can help take these engines and cars to 1/2 million miles or more.

 

[mooferz]

Originally Posted By: Or
Also, unless you are buying non-ethanol gas, consider an UCL in each tank. I use 3ozs/10gallons of MMO each tank and the car loves it. Works out to an added $.05/gallon (I buy it in quarts at Walmart) and it more than pays for itself in performance and added mpgs.
Also notable is these engines respond well to high octane fuel.

In addition to ~600:1 TC-W3 for an UCL, I typically blend 93 gas with E85 to about E30 and maybe 95-96 octane. (And watch the long term fuel trims)
The car feels appreciably slower on 93 alone, and is even slower on 87- especially during hot Texas summer days.

Note that ethanol might not be the best fuel choice, as the OEM fuel pumps are notoriously intolerant of an ethanol content above maybe E45 or so.