14' Elantra 2.0 GDI, 19' Elantra GT 1.6 TGDI

[19elantragt]

Hello all, been reading the forums for awhile and decided to join. Couple questions. My 14' 2.0 GDI has 104k. The car has been very reliable and planning to keep till it falls apart. I have used valvoline conventional 5w20 since new till about 90k. Can't find it anymore locally, seems they replaced it with semi syn. I do my own maintenance and do 5k OCI with OEM filter along with a bottle of techron before changing. It uses about 2qts between changes. Would it be worth to switch to 5w30 to maybe lessen burning between oci or would it matter much? Anything else I could try?

On the 19' 1.6 TGDI it has 2300 miles, I was planning 5k OCI, OEM filter with 5w30 QUSD + techron. Found the QUSD online for cheap at walmart and stocked up. I know the gdi engines have deposit issues. I mostly do highway miles 100+ for work daily @65-70mph. Want to keep this car 100k+. Is 5k oci to long for the turbo? Would this be a sound plan for longevity?

 

[CharBaby]

WELCOME!
I would use QSUD 5W30 in both cars for 5000 miles.
NO I don't think 5000 miles is long for a turbo(depending on how hard it's driven). However, I would stay with what your owner's manual says for your oil change interval(OCI) on the 2019 in order to stay within warranty compliance.

Keep in mind that 5000+ miles on regular conventional oil(mainly blends anyway) is the new 3mo/3000 miles. Sorta like, 50 yrs old is the new 30...sitting is the new smoking etc. Most likely you can go further on full synthetic oils. How far? Only a used oil analysis(UOA) can tell you.

 

[Mainia]

First off, I would dump your first OEM fill NOW, get that first run stuff out of there that has ultra fine particles of metal that goes right through the filter because it is too fine. Then start your 5,000 mile routine which seems fine since you are doing long daily high miles. I short trip my 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T, and I am on boost more then most and dump mine at 3,000-3,500 in the summer and 3,000 in the winter (Minnesota) because I have a massive fuel dilution problem in winter. You will have less of that since you drive a long distance.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted by 19elantragt
Hello all, been reading the forums for awhile and decided to join. Couple questions. My 14' 2.0 GDI has 104k. The car has been very reliable and planning to keep till it falls apart. I have used valvoline conventional 5w20 since new till about 90k. Can't find it anymore locally, seems they replaced it with semi syn. I do my own maintenance and do 5k OCI with OEM filter along with a bottle of techron before changing. It uses about 2qts between changes. Would it be worth to switch to 5w30 to maybe lessen burning between oci or would it matter much? Anything else I could try?

On the 19' 1.6 TGDI it has 2300 miles, I was planning 5k OCI, OEM filter with 5w30 QUSD + techron. Found the QUSD online for cheap at walmart and stocked up. I know the gdi engines have deposit issues. I mostly do highway miles 100+ for work daily @65-70mph. Want to keep this car 100k+. Is 5k oci to long for the turbo? Would this be a sound plan for longevity?

You would be better-served doing 4k OCIs on any Korean 1.6, 2.0GDI or 2.4 engine.
You would be better-served using 5w30
You would be better-served using full synthetic (from 3k-on).

Every set of numbers on your odometer is easy to remember. Just keep a log on when the last OCI was and what the mileage was.
You might be heading for an issue before that 10 year warranty on your engine expires. So if your vehicles enters a dealership for major engine repairs or replacement, it's best that the dealer sees a semi-clean engine inside, that show full on the dipstick.

Get your dipstick to show 'clear' for at least 1k. That ensures the dealer cannot fault you for having a dirty, not properly kept-up engine. Being yours is a 2014, issues are likely coming and prepare yourself and your engine for that Day Of Reckoning at the dealership.
'
They will try everything to prevent you from getting that engine repaired or replaced for free. Just becasue your engine is working fine today - doesn't mean it will still work fine in another year. Some of the warning signs happen quickly and that engine may stop on the freeway, at a moment's notice.

So get your engine-house in order, before entering the dealership house someday on a tow truck hook.
It's my turn to play 'Grim Reaper' here. I apologize for doing so. I even enhanced the part by typing out this post in a Devil's costume I found at Party City last year.

I couldn't find my garden pitch-fork thou. So I strive to improve this character for the future. My next two scheduled Grim Reaper Days are October 30th / 31st.

 

[csandste]

Originally Posted by 19elantragt
Hello all, been reading the forums for awhile and decided to join. Couple questions. My 14' 2.0 GDI has 104k. The car has been very reliable and planning to keep till it falls apart. I have used valvoline conventional 5w20 since new till about 90k. Can't find it anymore locally, seems they replaced it with semi syn. I do my own maintenance and do 5k OCI with OEM filter along with a bottle of techron before changing. It uses about 2qts between changes. Would it be worth to switch to 5w30 to maybe lessen burning between oci or would it matter much? Anything else I could try?

On the 19' 1.6 TGDI it has 2300 miles, I was planning 5k OCI, OEM filter with 5w30 QUSD + techron. Found the QUSD online for cheap at walmart and stocked up. I know the gdi engines have deposit issues. I mostly do highway miles 100+ for work daily @65-70mph. Want to keep this car 100k+. Is 5k oci to long for the turbo? Would this be a sound plan for longevity?

There is no more 5w20/30 conventional* oil any more. You weren't using conventional, even when the label said conventional. All SN-SN+/SP oil is semi-syn. Valvoline just changed their label to reflect reality. I use VDP because I get a $10 oil change with tire rotation. I throw Harvest King in as make up oil because it's all group III and cheaper. I've used 5w20 and 5w30 and couldn't see much difference, but mostly 5w30.

I do a 5K OCI but am OCD about checking that dip stick several times a week. Elantras are probably different but Soul user groups, especially on Facebook, are full of people who name their cars (I'm 75 and have avoided that naming anything for my entire life) but never check their oil. Not all HyunKia engine failures have low oil but it certainly can't help.

*With the exception of some Exxon-Mobil base stocks.

 

[wymi516]

No more than 3k miles for oil changes on that 1.6L turbo motor. I maintain my daughters KIA in my sig and it's hard on oil. I use either oe filters or wix 51334 filters, they're the same now. The 1.6l motor has a front facing oil drain plug, impossible to completely drain out all the oil unless the back of the car is higher than the front when you drain the oil. I drive the car up on slant cut 2x6's all the way around for some ground clearance. After the oil stops dripping I pour in the fresh oil w the drain plug out until it runs clear out of the pan. It takes about a half a quart for that to happen. The 1.6l motor likes Castrol black bottle 5-30 or Penz Plat 5-30 the best. Her car is slightly modified, hot pipe, cold pipe, second cat delete, one step colder plugs, k&n drop in filter and the motor is fully vented to atmosphere on both ports of the valve cover, no pcv. I also replaced the lower stock dog bone motor mount with a stiffer one, makes the car launch harder. The brakes are terribly weak on these cars and I run ebc yellow pads front & back, incredible fade free stopping power but they dust like crazy, car gets washed a lot. In case someone is wondering why I vented the valve cover, removing the pcv eliminates any gasses or oil fumes from washing over the valves and keeping them cleaner. The 2 vented lines drip in to a vented can I drain every oil change, it's full of nasty stuff that didn't get in to the motor.

 

[Mainia]

He's on the hwy for what appears to be 98% of it's life, you are going by what I do and your daughter does by trashing the smit out of our cars. Then yes, 3,000 miles is the cost of doing business on a trashed Hyundai turbo car, but you have some leeway on an almost exclusive hwy car.

On her car there is a good chance they will aggressively try to void the warranty on a blown engine with the colder plugs, venting to atmosphere, hot and cold pipe change over. The only thing they look the other way at is the intake muffler delete that a high number of even "commoner" drivers change to get rid of the stumbling starts it CAN promote.

 

[Mainia]

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by 19elantragt
Hello all, been reading the forums for awhile and decided to join. Couple questions. My 14' 2.0 GDI has 104k. The car has been very reliable and planning to keep till it falls apart. I have used valvoline conventional 5w20 since new till about 90k. Can't find it anymore locally, seems they replaced it with semi syn. I do my own maintenance and do 5k OCI with OEM filter along with a bottle of techron before changing. It uses about 2qts between changes. Would it be worth to switch to 5w30 to maybe lessen burning between oci or would it matter much? Anything else I could try?

On the 19' 1.6 TGDI it has 2300 miles, I was planning 5k OCI, OEM filter with 5w30 QUSD + techron. Found the QUSD online for cheap at walmart and stocked up. I know the gdi engines have deposit issues. I mostly do highway miles 100+ for work daily @65-70mph. Want to keep this car 100k+. Is 5k oci to long for the turbo? Would this be a sound plan for longevity?

You would be better-served doing 4k OCIs on any Korean 1.6, 2.0GDI or 2.4 engine.
You would be better-served using 5w30
You would be better-served using full synthetic (from 3k-on).

Every set of numbers on your odometer is easy to remember. Just keep a log on when the last OCI was and what the mileage was.
You might be heading for an issue before that 10 year warranty on your engine expires. So if your vehicles enters a dealership for major engine repairs or replacement, it's best that the dealer sees a semi-clean engine inside, that show full on the dipstick.

Get your dipstick to show 'clear' for at least 1k. That ensures the dealer cannot fault you for having a dirty, not properly kept-up engine. Being yours is a 2014, issues are likely coming and prepare yourself and your engine for that Day Of Reckoning at the dealership.
'
They will try everything to prevent you from getting that engine repaired or replaced for free. Just becasue your engine is working fine today - doesn't mean it will still work fine in another year. Some of the warning signs happen quickly and that engine may stop on the freeway, at a moment's notice.

So get your engine-house in order, before entering the dealership house someday on a tow truck hook.
It's my turn to play 'Grim Reaper' here. I apologize for doing so. I even enhanced the part by typing out this post in a Devil's costume I found at Party City last year.

I couldn't find my garden pitch-fork thou. So I strive to improve this character for the future. My next two scheduled Grim Reaper Days are October 30th / 31st.



Spoken by a Hyundai owner in the Know.

 

[csandste]

Everyone responding has sligjtly different ideas but they're all BITOGers. Now look at the universe of Elantra owners many of whom pay little if any attention to any of this except getting more or less oil changes from Jiffy Lube every six thou or so. Many of these barely cognizant drivers will do just fine not knowing if they have 5w20 or 5w30 or much of anything else. If the Soul Facebook sites are any indication many don't think they have to check their oil until the light comes on.

 

[wymi516]

Originally Posted by Mainia
He's on the hwy for what appears to be 98% of it's life, you are going by what I do and your daughter does by trashing the smit out of our cars. Then yes, 3,000 miles is the cost of doing business on a trashed Hyundai turbo car, but you have some leeway on an almost exclusive hwy car.

On her car there is a good chance they will aggressively try to void the warranty on a blown engine with the colder plugs, venting to atmosphere, hot and cold pipe change over. The only thing they look the other way at is the intake muffler delete that a high number of even "commoner" drivers change to get rid of the stumbling starts it CAN promote.


All the mods are easily reversed if needed. I had a new mid pipe made so I can bolt back in the cat conv and resonator easily. I indexed the plugs so starts are smooth with the NGK 1422 plugs which are now the standard heat range from the factory. The motor is silent except for a little injector noise, most 1.6L motors are clicky clacky monsters from the ones I've heard.

Clicked on your Kona link, I like what you did to your Kona!

 

[19elantragt]

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by 19elantragt
Hello all, been reading the forums for awhile and decided to join. Couple questions. My 14' 2.0 GDI has 104k. The car has been very reliable and planning to keep till it falls apart. I have used valvoline conventional 5w20 since new till about 90k. Can't find it anymore locally, seems they replaced it with semi syn. I do my own maintenance and do 5k OCI with OEM filter along with a bottle of techron before changing. It uses about 2qts between changes. Would it be worth to switch to 5w30 to maybe lessen burning between oci or would it matter much? Anything else I could try?

On the 19' 1.6 TGDI it has 2300 miles, I was planning 5k OCI, OEM filter with 5w30 QUSD + techron. Found the QUSD online for cheap at walmart and stocked up. I know the gdi engines have deposit issues. I mostly do highway miles 100+ for work daily @65-70mph. Want to keep this car 100k+. Is 5k oci to long for the turbo? Would this be a sound plan for longevity?

You would be better-served doing 4k OCIs on any Korean 1.6, 2.0GDI or 2.4 engine.
You would be better-served using 5w30
You would be better-served using full synthetic (from 3k-on).

Every set of numbers on your odometer is easy to remember. Just keep a log on when the last OCI was and what the mileage was.
You might be heading for an issue before that 10 year warranty on your engine expires. So if your vehicles enters a dealership for major engine repairs or replacement, it's best that the dealer sees a semi-clean engine inside, that show full on the dipstick.

Get your dipstick to show 'clear' for at least 1k. That ensures the dealer cannot fault you for having a dirty, not properly kept-up engine. Being yours is a 2014, issues are likely coming and prepare yourself and your engine for that Day Of Reckoning at the dealership.
'
They will try everything to prevent you from getting that engine repaired or replaced for free. Just becasue your engine is working fine today - doesn't mean it will still work fine in another year. Some of the warning signs happen quickly and that engine may stop on the freeway, at a moment's notice.

So get your engine-house in order, before entering the dealership house someday on a tow truck hook.
It's my turn to play 'Grim Reaper' here. I apologize for doing so. I even enhanced the part by typing out this post in a Devil's costume I found at Party City last year.

I couldn't find my garden pitch-fork thou. So I strive to improve this character for the future. My next two scheduled Grim Reaper Days are October 30th / 31st.

I appreciate the advice. I will switch to 5w30 on the 14'. I think im going to stick to the 5k oci on the 14'. Its past 100k so out of warranty anyway. I did dump the 19' oil this weekend @ 2300 miles for peace of mind. I will change again at 5k along with oem filter then decide on 4-5k oci. I was hoping to stick to 5k intervals as its easy to remember for me and im doing mostly highway miles. I save receipts and log everything so no worries there.

 

[19elantragt]

Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by 19elantragt
Hello all, been reading the forums for awhile and decided to join. Couple questions. My 14' 2.0 GDI has 104k. The car has been very reliable and planning to keep till it falls apart. I have used valvoline conventional 5w20 since new till about 90k. Can't find it anymore locally, seems they replaced it with semi syn. I do my own maintenance and do 5k OCI with OEM filter along with a bottle of techron before changing. It uses about 2qts between changes. Would it be worth to switch to 5w30 to maybe lessen burning between oci or would it matter much? Anything else I could try?

On the 19' 1.6 TGDI it has 2300 miles, I was planning 5k OCI, OEM filter with 5w30 QUSD + techron. Found the QUSD online for cheap at walmart and stocked up. I know the gdi engines have deposit issues. I mostly do highway miles 100+ for work daily @65-70mph. Want to keep this car 100k+. Is 5k oci to long for the turbo? Would this be a sound plan for longevity?

There is no more 5w20/30 conventional* oil any more. You weren't using conventional, even when the label said conventional. All SN-SN+/SP oil is semi-syn. Valvoline just changed their label to reflect reality. I use VDP because I get a $10 oil change with tire rotation. I throw Harvest King in as make up oil because it's all group III and cheaper. I've used 5w20 and 5w30 and couldn't see much difference, but mostly 5w30.

I do a 5K OCI but am OCD about checking that dip stick several times a week. Elantras are probably different but Soul user groups, especially on Facebook, are full of people who name their cars (I'm 75 and have avoided that naming anything for my entire life) but never check their oil. Not all HyunKia engine failures have low oil but it certainly can't help.

*With the exception of some Exxon-Mobil base stocks.

I agree you have to be checking the dipstick frequently on these cars. Hoping for good service out of the 19' GT as ive had with the 14'. I bought it in May this year, was a leftover new model that didnt sell. They discounted it 4400$+3500 rebate. I couldn't pass it up.

 

[19elantragt]

Originally Posted by Char Baby
WELCOME!
I would use QSUD 5W30 in both cars for 5000 miles.
NO I don't think 5000 miles is long for a turbo(depending on how hard it's driven). However, I would stay with what your owner's manual says for your oil change interval(OCI) on the 2019 in order to stay within warranty compliance.

Keep in mind that 5000+ miles on regular conventional oil(mainly blends anyway) is the new 3mo/3000 miles. Sorta like, 50 yrs old is the new 30...sitting is the new smoking etc. Most likely you can go further on full synthetic oils. How far? Only a used oil analysis(UOA) can tell you.

Thanks. I believe the manual says 6k normal service and 3750 severe. I will be in compliance @ 4-5k intervals.

 

[CharBaby]

If you're doing almost all hiwy driving, then this is the easiest type of driving that you can give an engine. So 6000 mile oil change intervals( OCI's) is easily obtainable, even on conventional oils.

It's that city type & short trips to the store, work, visiting family/ friends stop & go or slow & go type of driving the constitutes the severe(3750 mile) oil changes.

If we're telling ourselves that we still need to do 3K-4K mile OCI's then, what we're saying is that we don't trust that engine technologies and advancements in oils & lubricants haven't changed in decades.

It even took me some time after joining BITOG, to get past the 3K-4K mile OCI's. And when I did, I did it slowly, a little further each OCI as time went by.

 

[CharBaby]

^^^ In addition, Please don't get me wrong, I do believe that the short(er) OCI's still have their place. However, I stopped using the excuse that, changing my oil early "is cheap insurance"! And using the absolute best synthetic motor oil money can buy(price doesn't matter) and still doing 3mo/3K mile OCI's is a terrible waste of money, time and resources. Only you can draw the line for yourself.

For example, with the types of vehicles that I drive(mainstream cars) and the style of my driving, I personally don't need anything more than Walmart SuperTech or any other oil on the cheap(as long is it meets my engines specs). I don't need nor can I benefit from using higher end oils such as, Redline, Amsoil, Royal Purple or even some boutique oils because I don't drive hard, nor in a terrible climate or conditions other than hot summers & cold winters. My driving is just normal...a 'lil dis, a 'lil dat!

 

[nascarnation]

They will try everything to prevent you from getting that engine repaired or replaced for free

That's interesting because I talked to a Hyundai dealer tech who says they replace these engines in big numbers and he's always got a queue of engine replacement jobs to work on. He didn't say who was paying, though.

 

[19elantragt]

Originally Posted by nascarnation
They will try everything to prevent you from getting that engine repaired or replaced for free

That's interesting because I talked to a Hyundai dealer tech who says they replace these engines in big numbers and he's always got a queue of engine replacement jobs to work on. He didn't say who was paying, though.

I think it depends on the dealer also. I deliver Hyundai/Kia parts for mobis to dealerships at night. Some tell me just log oil changes and you will have no problems others are more strict on warranty issues.