10,000 miles on oil ? Think Again

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
tig1 where you at?

For those new to the board...

tig1 started using Mobil 1 5W20 in 1978, replacing the 10W40 that he was using at the time.

Since that time, he has clocked up more miles than NASA with 10,000 mile oil changes, with his engines running quieter, starting easier, and wearing less than any one elses.

You may now return to your normal programming.


As usual some of what you said is correct and some wrong. Line one is correct, and most of line two is wrong.

 

[MCompact]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: MCompact
I did think again; I went with a minimum OCI of 15,000 miles on my son's 328i- and at 108,500 miles the mechanical carnage is brutally evident:


That said, I do change the oil in the 2er at 10,000 miles, but that car has the N55 turbo motor.
What can I say? I like living on the ragged edge...

It looks great. Here's my point and why I say it depends on driving conditions. I bet it wouldn't look so good or be as mechanically sound if you were making NYC and Long Island commutes with it daily, and stuck with that OCI.

Agreed; but that's exactly why it is beyond ridiculous to make a blanket statement about OCIs to begin with- it all depends on the engine, the oil, and the driving conditions.

 

[pkunk]

Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: pkunk

"The three-valve per cylinder V-6 engine, is equipped with a special dielectric sensor in the oil pan that measures the amount and type of contaminants in the oil,...."


This is pretty hard to swallow.

I'd like to know what kind of "special dielectric sensor in the oil pan" does a used oil analysis as you drive.....
Don't know-that quote is from Mercedes.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: MCompact
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: MCompact
I did think again; I went with a minimum OCI of 15,000 miles on my son's 328i- and at 108,500 miles the mechanical carnage is brutally evident:


That said, I do change the oil in the 2er at 10,000 miles, but that car has the N55 turbo motor.
What can I say? I like living on the ragged edge...

It looks great. Here's my point and why I say it depends on driving conditions. I bet it wouldn't look so good or be as mechanically sound if you were making NYC and Long Island commutes with it daily, and stuck with that OCI.

Agreed; but that's exactly why it is beyond ridiculous to make a blanket statement about OCIs to begin with- it all depends on the engine, the oil, and the driving conditions.


To my knowledge XM gives blanket guarantee's for their oils.

 

[stockrex]

10k OCI - the only concern I have fuel dilution.

My hondas are fuel monsters, toyotas and ford, I just don't risk it, oil is cheap,

 

[wemay]

Ok ok... i see everyone's point.

 

[Whimsey]

Originally Posted By: stockrex
10k OCI - the only concern I have fuel dilution.

My hondas are fuel monsters, toyotas and ford, I just don't risk it, oil is cheap,


+1, We have a 2017 2.3 EB Explorer, and my concern is fuel dilution for long OCI's. This past summer We ran 7,000 mile in 2 months on Mobil 1 5W-30 and did an UOA, posted here. The wear metals were great and while it was still a 30 weight oil it was at the bottom of the 30 weight scale. This is most likely do to fuel dilution, although there was plenty of TBN left even at 7,000 miles. This was an ideal run for oil, summer and almost all highway driving. I'm currently doing a 5,000 mile OCI using Motorcraft 5W-30 from late August till changing it this coming January. This will give a more realistic picture of an "everyday normal" driving UOA. So far since new the iOLM seems to track down 10% for every 1,000 miles, no matter the driving conditions. At the time of oil change at 7,000 miles it showed 30% life left. So far at 3,000 miles of use on the Motorcraft 5W-30 it's showing 70+% life left. I'm not sure how Ford is gauging their iOLM to determine oil life based on driving conditions.

Whimsey

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted By: LoneRanger
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Depends on the application and driving conditions. The service my vehicles see would destroy oil long before 10K miles.


The reason for keeping the oil down to 5,000 miles is primarily for keeping the oil clean for the variable cam phasers (that have jillions of small moving parts) and the higher oil temperatures that modern engines like the Ford EcoBoost engines run at. Dirty oil that's cooked will kill the cam phasers.


Thank you !! No one wants to listen when I've said that choice of oil can make a difference on cars with variable valve timing. Subaru for instance says that 0W20 is required for their engines from model yr 2011 and forward due to the valve timing system needing a 20 weight and synthetic to keep that same valve timing system clean. But some guys are saying it's fine to dump in 10W30, 5W40, etc... apparently because in the past the previous generation of motors ran good on 10W40 or whatever. Ducati motorcycles got picky about oil once they introduced their ground breaking DVT variable valve timing motor in 2015. They used to allow 10W40 up through 20W50 but they adjusted the oil spec to 15W50 full syn only with the new variable valve timing engine.


My previous 08 STI had dual advanced variable valve timing (variable valve timing on intake and exhaust on both sides (boxer engine.) Sheared down 20wt all the way up to a heavy 40wt actuated the cam actuator just fine. I was tuned and logged hundreds of hrs of data using a laptop and watched the avcs data live occasionally via the Cobb AP.

When drive to work and it's really cold out, my oil temp doesn't reach operating temperature. Period. When it's hot out, it reaches operating temp quite quickly. It makes no sense for the viscosity requirement for hydraulic valve timing actuators to be so tight. Not only would the wrong viscosity trip a CEL, but so would driving in cold weather!

 

[HondaBroMike]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: hallstevenson
No offense to him, but the oil manufacturers, engine manufacturers, other mechanics, oil analysis labs, etc say differently.


I started this thread at 5:55PM and you posted your first post at 6:00PM.

The video is 12:43 long. You didn't watch the video.


good point. well I just did and the video illustrated well by showing you the engine damaged, just how critical the oil and how carefully you should choose the oil with the best base oil as it is 80% of the oil. So glad I Scored my almost 40 quarts of Idemitsu SN. SN>SM, right?

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: MCompact
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: MCompact
I did think again; I went with a minimum OCI of 15,000 miles on my son's 328i- and at 108,500 miles the mechanical carnage is brutally evident:


That said, I do change the oil in the 2er at 10,000 miles, but that car has the N55 turbo motor.
What can I say? I like living on the ragged edge...

It looks great. Here's my point and why I say it depends on driving conditions. I bet it wouldn't look so good or be as mechanically sound if you were making NYC and Long Island commutes with it daily, and stuck with that OCI.

Agreed; but that's exactly why it is beyond ridiculous to make a blanket statement about OCIs to begin with- it all depends on the engine, the oil, and the driving conditions.

If I were a gambling man I'd run EP for a year or 10K in my wife's Jeep. My bet would be the oil is totally useless and out of grade, and it won't be from fuel, silicon, or coolant contamination. It would be from our [censored] NY commute. The problem is there is no upside for me.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: MCompact
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: MCompact
I did think again; I went with a minimum OCI of 15,000 miles on my son's 328i- and at 108,500 miles the mechanical carnage is brutally evident:


That said, I do change the oil in the 2er at 10,000 miles, but that car has the N55 turbo motor.
What can I say? I like living on the ragged edge...

It looks great. Here's my point and why I say it depends on driving conditions. I bet it wouldn't look so good or be as mechanically sound if you were making NYC and Long Island commutes with it daily, and stuck with that OCI.

Agreed; but that's exactly why it is beyond ridiculous to make a blanket statement about OCIs to begin with- it all depends on the engine, the oil, and the driving conditions.

If I were a gambling man I'd run EP for a year or 10K in my wife's Jeep. My bet would be the oil is totally useless and out of grade, and it won't be from fuel, silicon, or coolant contamination. It would be from our [censored] NY commute. The problem is there is no upside for me.


Same with my wife's. Her 5 mile commute takes 30-40 minutes in the Santa Fe. This vehicle is on severe svc schedule regardless of oil.

 

[46Harry]

In my own cars, I will never go 10K miles between oil changes as I drive mostly in LA traffic which is brutal. The way I look at it, oil and filters are cheap, especially when Mobil is having their rebate deal so why try to do an extended oil drain to save a few bucks. That being said, what I do with my cars is up to me and what anyone else does with their vehicles is up to them.

 

[webfors]

Depends on the application /micdrop

 

[Toptierpao]

While I do not agree with the blanket oil change interval statements made by the videos host,he is correct,you tube star or not. The key word he used was "modern engines". Did the doubters listen carefully to the Pennzoil tech. We learn thru racing.

Todays engines have a LOT of technology where oil plays a crucial role.If you are using conventional oil,it will catch up with you in time.The holes on the screens of the oil control calve he pulled are about the thickness of a piece of paper.One of the first signs of neglect or that you should switch to a better oil will be a check engine light due to a bad OCV. Screens get plugged due to coking/varnish due to the heat and stress placed upon the oil.

Todays engine run hot by design and new engines scheduled to come online will run hotter yet thanks to the EPA/Government.Engine technology is out pacing oil which is the reason for the scramble to the new oil classifications.It has been known for years by engineers and the higher ups with the car manufacturers.These new oil classifications have been on the drawing boards since 2012 I believe.

At least the majority of the members on BITOG are using synthetic oil.

 

[Hootbro]

Paid content aside, I weigh his advise more than others when it comes to Fords. Outside Fords, less so.

 

[camrydriver111]

Originally Posted By: BrianF
I run 3000 mile changes with Amsoil in my Geo Metro. Its cheap insurance and I sleep better at night. It has to be 100% PAO based or I will be using Mobile 1.


LOL

 

[fdcg27]

Depends upon the engine and conditions of use as well as oil selection.
If I ran my newer Accord down to 0% MM, I'd be doing these 10K drains without any concern.
Instead, I start planning a drain at 15% MM, but only as a matter of convenience, knowing that I have another 1200-1500+ miles of driving available if that proves necessary.
If I owned an EB, I'd be equally unconcerned about 10K drains as I'd use it, with mostly longer drives on each start and very few short trips.
Use matters as much as engine in determining oil life.
Nobody can make any blanket OCI recommendation for any engine. There are other variables to be considered.

 

[WolverineSam]

4000-5000 miles per OCI. And ALWAYS a new filter. Why run clean oil through a dirty filter? I keep my OCI's at that frequency because I like to pamper my cars, and enjoy working on them. It may mean an extra 1 or 2 changes a year at about $35 per, but my cars tell me they appreciate it.

 

[andyd]

Originally Posted By: WolverineSam
4000-5000 miles per OCI. And ALWAYS a new filter. Why run clean oil through a dirty filter? I keep my OCI's at that frequency because I like to pamper my cars, and enjoy working on them. It may mean an extra 1 or 2 changes a year at about $35 per, but my cars tell me they appreciate it.

While I change the oil filter every time, out of habit, I used to change out John Ingham's New Yorker every other oil change. The logic is unassailable. Dirty filters filter better.

 

[WylieCoyote]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
On occasion engineers screw up. I recall reading about GM reprogramming OLM's a few years back to shorten the interval. I read here recently that Ford bumping up a grade on some of their engines. My suggestion is avoid blanket statements like a good synthetic oil can go 10K miles. In some apps it can, others it can't. If you want to stretch an OCI, or be sure your OLM is right get a UOA and know for sure.


This is what killed the timing chain and guides in my sister-in-law's Equinox. That engine sounded like a poorly-maintained diesel at startup. I no longer trust OLMs and just change it out at 5,000 miles. Well, except for the one in my 2011 Camaro which routinely starts reporting 20% oil life remaining before it even hits 5,000 miles.