0W Oil With Low NOACK?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Speak2Mountain
Engineering-wise, how many years away can we expect to see a light oil that has to stability of a heavier oil. Better MPG and better volatility resistance.


7 or 8 for mass market oils that are formulated for cars built to the 54 mpg EPA standards.

Or never, if those standards are scrapped.
 
Originally Posted By: merconvvv

I am sticking with oils with low to close to no viscosity modifiers AND i can get them for around 15 bucks for 5 quarts after rebates. Now the rx7 has pp 10w30 in it also for the first time and initial results look favorable. Have not driven it much but if oil consumption is down on that one too then ... Ofcourse the rx7 will drink oil but how much ?
smile.gif



You're running synthetic oil in a Mazda rotary? I thought that was strongly NOT recommended.
 
Last edited:
pp 10w30 is gtl not pao. So it should be good.
Regardless i have run mobil 1 in rx7s for about 230k miles with no ill effect other than having to top it off.
Idemutiso (sp check) also have special rx7 oil that is pao based.
By the way i crunched some harmon index numbers the other day !
 
I had heard that from an owner years ago - but he could not explain the science behind it ...
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex

Interesting.

This kind of makes the argument for a "catch can" in the PCV line a more valid one.


Catch cans have been shown to not prevent anything. Sure they take goop out but apparently it wasn't the goop causing the problems.

The BMW, Mini, etc. forums are chalked full of threads where people put on high quality catch cans and still get intake deposits at the same rate.

The only point of a catch can is to milk every last ounce of timing out of a tune and remove particulates/vapors that lower the octane rating of the air:fuel mixture. This helps you push that absolute limit the fuel's octane levels can handle before detonation.
 
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
The noack becomes significant if you have oil consumption issues. You are fortunate that your expedition did not consume oil atleast anything that wud alarm you. My expedition since new consumed oil especially on highway where the egr is on and i have lots of highway miles.
Pp 10w30 has resulted in close to zero oil consumption. So we will see. I have only recently discovered this oil after years on m1 diet.


Comically, ours swilled AMSOIL AZO 0w-30 like a drunken sailor, but didn't consume anything on Mobil 1 oils, LOL!


Sounds like your expe had taste for expensive brew.
I just give mine whatever i can get at WM in 5 qt jugs.

I am sticking with oils with low to close to no viscosity modifiers AND i can get them for around 15 bucks for 5 quarts after rebates. Now the rx7 has pp 10w30 in it also for the first time and initial results look favorable. Have not driven it much but if oil consumption is down on that one too then ... Ofcourse the rx7 will drink oil but how much ?
smile.gif



thumbsup2.gif
I picked up a pile of Redline 5w-30 from Canadian Tire at one point when they were clearing it out and ran that. it was VII-free and super low NOACK. However, that was the only oil my wife ever complained about impacting fuel economy
grin.gif


Did not consume at all though.
 
Cheap redline 5w30 and wife complains. Haha that is a new criteria to be added to the specs.
 
Last edited:
this thread failed in its attempt to identify low NOACK 0w-20 oils. Either that or the oils themselves failed. either way, failure-city!
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
42


That's as good an answer as you're going to get


HondaruLz the thread was answered above by silverfusion:)
 
Redline amsoil pp m1 are good places to start.
I have never seen 0w20 with say less than 7 or 8.
Most likely noack around 8 for good 0w20.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: merconvvv

I am sticking with oils with low to close to no viscosity modifiers AND i can get them for around 15 bucks for 5 quarts after rebates. Now the rx7 has pp 10w30 in it also for the first time and initial results look favorable. Have not driven it much but if oil consumption is down on that one too then ... Ofcourse the rx7 will drink oil but how much ?
smile.gif



You're running synthetic oil in a Mazda rotary? I thought that was strongly NOT recommended.

It is. The official reason per Mazda is that SOME synthetic oils have been observed to cause deposits to accumulate in the intake ports. Apparently Mazda just didn't want to go to the trouble of endorsing certain brands over others, developing their own spec, etc., so they just told their customers "no synthetic" to be safe.

At the same time, there is a Mazda-branded rotary-specific synthetic 0w-30. There are also a few rotary-specific oils from third parties like Idemitsu and HKS. Not much is known about them, but one of the small tidbits is that low ash content is at least part of the puzzle. Either way, they clearly demonstrate that not all synthetic is problematic. The only problem is how to tell what is or isn't problematic with so little good info out there.
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Anyone find NOACK on the new M1 AP ?


I would LOVE to know this as well. I emailed Mobil and asked them, but they sent me a response stating it was proprietary.
 
Its probably around 8.
But dont think it is possible to make it lower than 7 or so even if it was free of any viscosity modifier and entirely pao based.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: merconvvv

I am sticking with oils with low to close to no viscosity modifiers AND i can get them for around 15 bucks for 5 quarts after rebates. Now the rx7 has pp 10w30 in it also for the first time and initial results look favorable. Have not driven it much but if oil consumption is down on that one too then ... Ofcourse the rx7 will drink oil but how much ?
smile.gif



You're running synthetic oil in a Mazda rotary? I thought that was strongly NOT recommended.

It is. The official reason per Mazda is that SOME synthetic oils have been observed to cause deposits to accumulate in the intake ports. Apparently Mazda just didn't want to go to the trouble of endorsing certain brands over others, developing their own spec, etc., so they just told their customers "no synthetic" to be safe.

At the same time, there is a Mazda-branded rotary-specific synthetic 0w-30. There are also a few rotary-specific oils from third parties like Idemitsu and HKS. Not much is known about them, but one of the small tidbits is that low ash content is at least part of the puzzle. Either way, they clearly demonstrate that not all synthetic is problematic. The only problem is how to tell what is or isn't problematic with so little good info out there.


Used m1 excusively from 1986 to 2017 in rx7s i have owned.
Btw my owner manual states not to use synthetics and oil weigjt is temp dependant with chart
smile.gif


Anyone give u hard time for running 5w20 ?
10W30 is the lightest recommend for 1988 rx7 in owners manual. If i remember correctly.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
Anyone give u hard time for running 5w20 ?

Not me personally. At least, not as far as I recall.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
Anyone give u hard time for running 5w20 ?

Not me personally. At least, not as far as I recall.


Looks like u drive your rx8 year round.
I did that with my 86 rx7 till 1999.
Snow sleet that thing would go. Had to put sand bags in back and blizzaks on all four.
 
I do. Winter tires in winter, not even snow tires. No sandbags. It's great until I try to test the car's ground clearance, lol
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top