Mobil 1 0W-40 might be cleaning my VW 1.8T engine

[JAG]

Yes, exactly my thoughts TeeDub. Just make sure you know the correlation I've given between HTHS and KV is in terms of % change. That is, do NOT do this: Assume KV loss is 2cst. Therefore HTHS loss is 1/2 * 2 or 1 cP. So Final HTHS would be 3.6 - 1 = 2.6 cP. That's wrong.

DO do this. Assume KV initial is 14 cst and loss is 2 cst. So % change in KV is 14.3%. Assume HTHS initial is 3.6 cP. 1/2* 14.3% is 7.1% which is % change in HTHS. So Final HTHS is 3.6 - 3.6*7.1% = 3.34 cP.

 

[paul_e320]

JAG/TeeDub,

I followed the algorithm with no problems, but I'm wondering if I have a sample of oil analyzed and it turns out that the KV has dropped (due to shear), then I can calculate how much the HTHS dropped as a result of that same shear?

Thanks guys.

Regards,
paul...

 

[JAG]

If my source is correct, then yes. Here's the source:
http://www.osti.gov/energycitations/product.biblio.jsp?osti_id=5137977

 

[TeeDub]

Any oil analysis lab like Oil Analyzers Inc can run the HT/HS viscosity test on a sample of used oil - I think the cost is about $35.00-$40.00/test. It would be very interesting to do this on a sheared down sample of the Mobil 1, 0w-40 from a VW/Audi turbo, and put this issue to rest.

As a practical matter, I'd say if your oil pressure is dropping noticably over the course of an OCI, then oil is definitely shearing and becoming thinner.

TS

 

[JAG]

Update: just got done cleaning the Y-hose that goes from valve cover nipple and PCV hose to the intake hose. Also cleaned the intake hose where the Y-hose feeds into it. All these things had a lot of highly oxidized oil with solids in it. I used CRC Electronic parts cleaner to soak paper towels and a T-shirt to clean everything. It's a great solvent and washed the oil from the solids, which then look like dried brown and black coffee grinds. I got so much crud out! I'm going to have the PCV valve replaced along with the hose it attaches too which still has a lot of crud I couldn't get to.

I looked inside the oil fill cap hole and saw that the once hard varnish on the very upper end of the hole has softened and can be whiped off. M1 0W-40 gets the credit for that. I have 1k miles on this fill of it so far. Previous fill of this oil had 3.5K miles on it when changed. The flat region toward the firewall direction that I spoke of earlier in the thread is looking really good and clean. Unfortunately I am going to have to run many short oil change intervals with PROPER synthetics to get this engine clean...big $$!

I'm appalled by what I found. I took these parts off earlier in the engine's life when it had only used M1 0W-40 and Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 and it was squeaky clean and just had oil layer on everything.

Big message: do NOT think that oils using PAO with no Group 3 in them gaurantees a superior motor oil. This has been proven in many tests as well. Some have just PAO and use nothing else but Group 1 as additive carrier. Solubility of these motor oils can suck. I've been saying this for a long time and some people don't want to believe it. Additive package and Group 5 basestocks (which vary in type and quantity which can be zero!) are super important in determining the motor oil performance.

 

[Turbodriven]

I agree and M1 0w-40 is a really good oil and does work very well in Euro (and others) motors. I have been using it up till now for 7 years (include the 5w-40 which preceded the 0w) in three cars and have only had super results.
#@$%! if AMG and Porsche use it it must be good.

 

[bxd20]

I've used both oils back to back in my 99 SVT Contour. 2.5 V6, loves to rev, H.O. Duratec.

These two oils are almost twins in how they wear in my engine, as well as their viscosity after about 7500 miles. I haven't pushed them much further.

I have UOA posted from 06 in here somewhere...

Either is great, and they are more alike than most people who are die hards for either camp, would like to admit.

 

[JAG]

Here's the results of volatility tests I did last night on M1 0W-40 and Amsoil 5W-30 ASL. I tested Amsoil only as a promise to buster. It's not meant as an alternative to M1 0W-40 since the viscosities are too different.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=0#Post872576

 

[BrianWC]

I know a guy who uses the stuff exclusively on his pre-sludger 9-3 and his sludger 9-5 Saabs. The stuff sure didn't clean or keep clean the 9-5....

 

[StoicDude]

Thanks for the info man. I guess I might be going back to Mobil 1 after the next oil change, considering that GC is being discontinued at most places.

 

[JAG]

The top inch or so of the inside of the dipstick tube had some black crusty particles sitting in the grooves. To keep them from dropping down the dipstick tube, I carefully pushed some paper towel down into the hole and sprayed the area with CRC electronics cleaner. The chunks blew right out and I then pulled out the paper towel. Voila! The area looks nice and clean now.

I'll soon have to clean out the hoses that I cleaned before. I bet more deposits are loosening on the underside of the valve cover and getting blown out into the hoses.

I'm getting this engine back to cleanliness one little step at a time.

 

[JAG]

Another story to tell to put it on record, mostly for my sake. I know it's not exciting to you all but oh well.

I checked the Y-Hose again to see if a mess developed in it. No mess there but I cleaned it again anyway.

I shined a light inside the circular nipple that comes off the valve cover and starting about 1 inch in, there is a black layer of crust on the bottom. I did my best to reach in a clean it out but didn't make much progress since it's quite hardened so doesn't whipe right off. Sometime I may take off the valve cover and clean it completely.

This same black crust is also inside the plastic hose that comes up from the PCV valve. I also was not able to get it clean plus it's so long that I can't reach far into it. I'm concerned how the PCV functioning is since this hose after it basically has clogged arteries. I think I'll have it replaced when I get a chance along with the nasty hose.

I did put a piece of this black crust in a ceramic cup then put in virgin Mobil 1 10W-30 High Mileage oil. I'm going to heat it up later and see how well the oil disperses and solubizes the crust. To the touch, the crust is very gritty and breaks apart into pieces smaller than sand.

 

[BrianWC]

Hmmm. Definitely seems to be a different engine environment than the SAAB sludgers. The poorly evacuated blow-by softens and disintegrates any hose rubber before it can clog. Usually....

Glad you're experimenting with the new M1 HM oils. I really WANT them to be good oils but am scared they might not be..... HM 10W40 M1 just sounds irresistible to me. I know....I'm sick.

 

[JAG]

Here is a Mobil 1 10W-40 HM UOA. The additive package looks pretty hefty compared to most API SM oils, which this oil is NOT (it's API SL). As soon as I saw the PDS for the HM oils, I knew they had hefty add packs just by how high their Sulfated Ash levels are.

I'm going to test the poop out of M1 10W-30 HM alonside M1 0W-40 and see what's up with this new line of M1 oils.

 

[Stainless]

Quote:

---

Here is a Mobil 1 10W-40 HM UOA.

---

Ummm.... Where?

 

[JAG]

Oops, forgot to paste it before.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=3#Post882051

 

[jsharp]

Quote:

---

Here is a Mobil 1 10W-40 HM UOA. The additive package looks pretty hefty compared to most API SM oils, which this oil is NOT (it's API SL). As soon as I saw the PDS for the HM oils, I knew they had hefty add packs just by how high their Sulfated Ash levels are.

I'm going to test the poop out of M1 10W-30 HM alonside M1 0W-40 and see what's up with this new line of M1 oils.

---

I looked at the datasheet on the M1 10W-30 HM and decided the same thing. Low pour point and higher conventional additive levels is what I see. The viscosity is also higher than typical.

After seeing that, I'm going to try it in something myself...

 

[JAG]

Update: I suspected my PCV valve was partly clogged with crud so I had the dealer replace it. What they found was that the PCV valve had some crud in it but that's the good news. The bad news is that there is a part called "Suction Jet Pump" that is what actually sucks the crankcase vapors out. They said it was badly clogged up and is not able to do its job. So my PCV system was not functioning properly. They did not have the part so I'll have to have that put in later but ASAP. It will cost over $300 for parts and labor. They said this clogging of the pump is quite common on VW 1.8T engines. They said one came into the shop a week ago that was so bad that it wouldn't even start.

So they put a new PCV valve in and put back on the non-functioning Suction Jet Pump. I drove 2.5 hours on the highway afterward and then checked the oil on my dipstick. It had a lot of little crusty particles on it! I whiped it with a paper towel and these particles showed up like I wiped a dirty screwdriver with it. Looking at it with my monocular confirmed the particles were particles and not something else. I don't know how this relates to what the dealership did during the servicing but it's surely related somehow. Quite concerned that a bunch of particles are floating in my oil so think I will dump the M1 0W-40 oil with only 1.5K miles on it and put some el-cheapo Supertech 15W-40 HDEO in it and run it as a flush.

A word to the wise. Jump on people when they say that a little bit of varnish/sludge doesn't hurt anything and is just cosmetic. In my case, it will be about $450 dollars worth of damage, not counting the extra oil I've had to buy or the increase in engine wear all this has caused.

 

[BrianWC]

Oh, you're probably tickled pink that you have something to clean up!

Wow, that's an impressive apparatus the VW has. Shouldn't the turbo do that job just fine?

 

[JAG]

This Suction Jet Pump is not a mini-turbo or anything.

I think it is an electric powered pump that sucks out crankcase vapors. I didn't know my engine had such a thing on it.

Oh no, I sure am not tickled in any kind of good way. It's ruined my weekend.