Oil/filter for new Ram Hemi, and 1st change?

[irv]

New truck on order and curious when to do the first oil chnage?

I am anal and was thinking of changing it out around 500miles (800km's) or less, good idea?

Also curious what oil I should use? I am thinking about Pennzoil regular or Platnium or Castrol Edge?
I will try and get Purolater Pure one Filters for it if I can but what would be a good alternative if I can't?

Also, any info you think I should know regarding my new truck/engine would be appreciated.
I haven't owned a Dodge since 76 but with the issues I am currently going through with my 09 Sierra, I think it is time for a change.

Thankks

 

[NHGUY]

Dont change it that early.No need to.
As for dumping a GM,congrats.
The replacement oil needs to meet Chrysler specs.I'm thinking only a synthetic (PP/PU) will meet that.

 

[yucca]

I have good success with my ram hemi company issued work truck using Chevron Supreme 5w20 with Napa gold oil and air filters.

I would just do the 5k OCI.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Dont change it that early.No need to.
As for dumping a GM,congrats.
The replacement oil needs to meet Chrysler specs.I'm thinking only a synthetic (PP/PU) will meet that.


The Penzoil Ultra, I was thinking about as well and will likely go to once I get a few thousands miles on it or before winter comes?

Just thought? Will the recommended oil be 5W-20 or 5W-30??

 

[72Cude426]

Going by Chrysler MS-6395 spec the only synthetics you can use is PP,PU or Valvoline Synpower they all work great in the Hemi.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: 72Cude426
Going by Chrysler MS-6395 spec the only synthetics you can use is PP,PU or Valvoline Synpower they all work great in the Hemi.


Good to know, thanks.

Surprised at the "Leave it in" comments? My gut, and the way I have always done it, is change it right away as that is where one will get the most wear products.

Second oil change for me would likely be between 2500-3000 km's before I would leave it for the recommended mileage of 7500 I believe?


Most don't change out their oil on new engine sooner rather than later anymore?
I also read with these engines, the typical break-in or the break-in I am use to doesn't apply anymore??

 

[jimbrewer]

Good to know, thanks.

Surprised at the "Leave it in" comments? My gut, and the way I have always done it, is change it right away as that is where one will get the most wear products.

Nah. That's an Old Wive's Tale. Maybe once upon a time they really left iron filings in the crankcase, but I doubt its been true since the early sixties at the latest. Even if they did leave a little crud in there, the filter would pick it up right away unless its a relatively massive amount.

Honda is adamant about not doing an early change. Their position is that the left over factory lubricants are helpful to the break-in process. I figure they know a thing or two about building durable motors. If the "left over lubricants are helpful to break in" thing is true for a Honda, its likely to be true for all manufacturers since they are similar in this respect.

 

[rraiderr]

I ram Amsoil XL and the WIX filter in my Hemi.

Used it for towing cross county and it never missed a beat.

I did one UOA with 7500 miles of commuting and towing on the XL 5-20 and it came out fine.

I will see if I can find it.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: jimbrewer

Good to know, thanks.

Surprised at the "Leave it in" comments? My gut, and the way I have always done it, is change it right away as that is where one will get the most wear products.

Nah. That's an Old Wive's Tale. Maybe once upon a time they really left iron filings in the crankcase, but I doubt its been true since the early sixties at the latest. Even if they did leave a little crud in there, the filter would pick it up right away unless its a relatively massive amount.

Honda is adamant about not doing an early change. Their position is that the left over factory lubricants are helpful to the break-in process. I figure they know a thing or two about building durable motors. If the "left over lubricants are helpful to break in" thing is true for a Honda, its likely to be true for all manufacturers since they are similar in this respect.


Good point, but when I built my small block Chev years go (90's) I remember the Cam manu suggesting changing the oil after the cam had been broken in to get rid of the assembly cam lube and other break-in lubes.

Like you said, guess things have changed?

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: rraiderr
I ram Amsoil XL and the WIX filter in my Hemi.

Used it for towing cross county and it never missed a beat.

I did one UOA with 7500 miles of commuting and towing on the XL 5-20 and it came out fine.

I will see if I can find it.

That would be great, although I haven't had good luck with Amsoil,(consumption issues) I'd be willing to give it another try if it showed great numbers running it in the Hemi?

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: rraiderr
I ram Amsoil XL and the WIX filter in my Hemi.



Those would be my choices for a 5k interval; you could also use the OE at that distance.

My opinion on changing factory fill...change it. Except for apparently Honda, there might be some special lube in there, or it could be dino or synthetic, the factory isn't telling you what is in there. Since wear metals are highest during break in, changing early should be beneficial and at the worst, won't hurt anything.

Are you considering a 0w20 for winter use?

 

[440Magnum]

My choice: M1 5w20EP, M1 0w20, or PU 5w20, and first change at anywhere between 1k and 3k then follow the OLM (if equipped) or at least 6k intervals. I'm currently a fan of either a Fram Ultra or Royal Purple synthetic media filter, too. RP is pricier, but they also win on a few minor points like baseplate thickness and all-metal bypass valve.

AFAIK the only manufacturer that really pushes leaving the factory juice in for a full OCI is Honda. So I see no issue with dumping it early on a Mopar. With roller cams, there isn't that same huge need for sacrificial extreme pressure additives during break-in as there was in the old days... but there is still a pretty big "shedding" of large wear particles from the cylinder walls and rings as they do their initial seating, and I like to get that junk out ASAP.

Yes, I know factory fill is Pennzoil and PU definitely meets all the latest Chrysler-specific specs since they are partnered for factory fill. Yes, I searched high-and-low for PU 0w40 for the first change in my SRT... but after seeing the VOA I doubt I'll use it again unless my end-of-OCI analysis shows something like practically no viscosity shift... its pretty weak sauce compared to M1 0w40 at least in terms of traditional additives. Its alleged edge is shear stability (and perhaps additives that don't show up in a $30 analysis from Blackstone), so the results at the end of an interval are really what I'm waiting to see. The same isn't so true in the 5w20 grade you'll use, so I really have nothing against PU in your application.

 

[donnyj08]

i bought a new 2012 last year. here is how i did it.

reem it hard on factory fill.

1. 1st change at 2k. put mobil super 5k 5w20 in with fl820s filter. FL820S motorcraft cross references the MO899 mopar, but is cheaper and better built. i recommend the FL820s.

2. second change at 5k used 5w20 Amsoil OE

3. at 10k miles changed to RP 5w20 i got on sale. ran that until the light dinged. 7800miles or so.

4. put in Mobil Super synthetic 5w20 i bought on clearance. sold the truck with 18k miles on it.

it was a good truck, the hemi is a very nice engine. in short any good 5w20 is perfectly fine for the hemi. i recommend the FL820s filter as opposed to the M0899 mopar unit. its under 4$ a filter as compared to $7-8 for a wix. construction is just as good as a wix IMO.

 

[Zeus103363]

Congrats on the truck! I have a 09 dodge ram 1500 4x4 crew cab and the whole family enjoys it. I wouldn't recommend Mobil 1...it doesn't cover the MS-6395 oil spec anymore so warrantee issues there. I have used PP, and chevron supreme synthetic, and next is havoline synthetic. Several oil changes I used Kendall 5w-20 semi and I was very pleased with the results. For the cost savings I would probably use Kendall. It really is good motor oil. One thing to keep in mind with a hemi, you have to change the spark plugs every 36k miles, and it is quite a pain to do too. The only spark plugs is a dealer only item too. Change the tranny fluid regularly and you are good to go. From experience pure one oil filters make the lifters tapp at startup too. I don't know why, but Mopar branded filters don't seem to have this problem, and they are usually available at wal mart. Have fun!

 

[901Memphis]

Do they really spec 5w20 for the hemi?

 

[Zeus103363]

Yes...and only 5w-20. It's for the MDS system.

 

[yucca]

One thing you might consider. We put drain plugs in the transmission sump at about 30k. I have been changing the oil in the sump at 30k and the oil plus filter at 60k.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Zeus103363
Yes...and only 5w-20. It's for the MDS system.

You might want to have a look in the hemi forums. From 20-40 grades there was no noticeable difference in how the engine ran. So grade isn't as important as you might think.
Op. I have an 04 hemi. Its had nothing but dealer oil changes before I bought it,and has over 270000 on the engine. The engine burns no oil between changes and will still rip the tires off at will.
I'm wasn't convinced that 20 grades were tough enough,especially in a truck however open your hood. You've got a cooler for every fluid,which means the oil temp is kept low enough to retain film strength.
So use what Chrysler tells you to. My engine is proof,to me anyways,that 20 grade oils today are more than enough.
And you are gonna be looking for any help you can find when it comes to improving fuel efficiency.

 

[donnyj08]

the Hemi doesnt mind 5w20. it shows great uoa's on it. 5w20 is plenty robust for the Hemi.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: Zeus103363
I wouldn't recommend Mobil 1...it doesn't cover the MS-6395 oil spec anymore so warrantee issues there.


Mobil 1 is not "certified" to MS6395 right now but that doesn't mean it doesn't meet/exceed the standard. MS6395 is not some super hard special oil standard to meet. The issue is Chrysler adding that ridiculous multi year testing process to get "officially certified". At the very least I would not worry about running the synthetic Mobil 1's. I am no fan of their oils but MS6395 is not hard to meet. You don't have to run a certified product so if you can show Mobil 1 does in fact meet the performance requirements your warranty is safe.