176 mile commute....pick my oil

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Mobil 1 + Fram Ultra = 10k ...
I use Fram Ultra and MC - (Mobil 1 filter if on sale) MC is good but not an equal to the other two ...
 
I'd try Mobil 1 EP and a Fram Ultra and do a UOA at 10 or 12K and adjust up or down from there.
I have a 2014 Focus M/T with virtually the same MZR engine (except mine is DI). The UOAs seem to indicate that these aren't hard on oil with 10K being doable on Motorcraft semi-syn......this is why I think the Mobil 1 EP/FU combo may be good for 15K+ with your type of driving/climate.
 
Originally Posted By: tomcruise
Originally Posted By: MRtv
Originally Posted By: tomcruise
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
I wouldn't worry too much about oil. Your folks did a heck of a job taking good care of the internals. What's the maintenance history? I'd be more concerned about that.


Chevron Supreme, Motorcraft, or VWB at 5k or so.

I just did the transmission fluid last weekend for the first time.

Dad did the coolant and sparkplugs at 100k


Hey these oils are great. No problem if you picked them. Good job on the transmission fluid change. I do a simple drain and fill once a year on mine. I did a complete change which included a torque converter drain and replaced all the fluid. From here on out I plan on a simple annual drain and fill to keep refreshing the fluid.


It's a manual, so it was easy enoughto just drain and fill. Only takes 2.2 quarts.



Tom: What did you refill the gearbox with?
 
You work as a mechanic?
Any possibility of your putting your personal vehicle up during a break when things aren't busy and doing an oil change with the jug and new filter you'll carry with you?
Are things that tough where you live that you have to drive that distance just to earn a good wage?
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
I'd try Mobil 1 EP and a Fram Ultra and do a UOA at 10 or 12K and adjust up or down from there.
I have a 2014 Focus M/T with virtually the same MZR engine (except mine is DI). The UOAs seem to indicate that these aren't hard on oil with 10K being doable on Motorcraft semi-syn......this is why I think the Mobil 1 EP/FU combo may be good for 15K+ with your type of driving/climate.


Yes I tend to agree M1 EP + FU for extended OCI. The EP oil should have a higher TBN to fight acid build up for longer distance. That's the North American (NA) way.

However long oil change intervals (OCI) have been a Euro thing for quite some time, hence the Euro ACEA A3/B4 standard that requires a TBN of 10 or more. Very few typical NA full synthetic oils have a TBN this high. Then you get the special Euro OEM specs for long-life oils, like BMW LL-01 and MB 229.5, these step it up another notch again. Yes they are thicker oils (30 or 40 grade) but this is by design to give them a large HTHS reserve and still be in grade at the end of the OCI. They also must pass a shear stability test, which forces the use of more shear stable (and expensive) VII polymers. Two good examples of these Euro grade oils are M1 0W-40 and Edge 0W-40. Last time I looked they both had a TBN of more than 11 and it's TBN reserve that is the reason BlackStone often saying "you can extend your OCI". They both also have a higher Zinc / ZDDP reserve than your typical ILSAC oils.

Yes, ILSAC oils help with fuel economy, but that advantage is mostly found in the warm up phase of short tripping. Not a big concern with a long commute like the OP's.

Me ? I would get a good synthetic filter like a Fram Ultra and a Euro grade long-life oil like M1 or Edge 0W-40, and change every 12-15,000 miles or 3 to 4 months. A UOA at this distance would be good, and given your long highway commute, they may even say you can go further. I would certainly be interested to hear back either way.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I would pick a name brand synthetic, a good Ford or equiv filter and run 10,000 miles and do a UOA. From the uoa, I would then adjust the OCI if needed.


This. Or use a high-quality full-syn (it'd be Valvoline if it were mine but Mobil's reputation is undeniable) and run it to whatever the owner's manual says for "normal" (not severe) service. Unless it has an OLM, then determine on average how many miles it's going to run and set your interval for whatever's close to 0% on it. And while 5w30 probably won't hurt it, I doubt a high-quality full-syn 5w20 will do any harm, either. I'm still putting 5w20 Maxlife in my in-law's 200,000-mile Caravan and no complaints from it yet.
 
My vote goes toward trying an extended drain oil such as Mobile 1 EP or Castrol Edge gold bottle and do a 10k uoa. See what blackstone says and run accordingly. Your car sounds like it is a perfect candidate for 15k or higher oil changes. I would probably even be willing to switch back and forth between oils with no problems. But at the price, an extended performance oil sounds as if it would save money in the long run.
 
All this talk about changing the oil, why don't you keep your oil and just change the interval? 10k on dino might be do-able. Chevron Supreme is a very good oil and your conditions are ideal. Get a UOA at 8000 and see how it looks.
 
With long stretches the engine is operating, using a good conventional would be realistic, and I agree. On commercial heavy truck engines for highway use, they typically have 35K mile OCI's with Detroit being the OCI king at 50,000 miles recommended interval. And on conventional oil to boot. Engines and oils hold up much better when operated in longer time frames at consistent RPM ranges than typical city commuter stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
All this talk about changing the oil, why don't you keep your oil and just change the interval? 10k on dino might be do-able. Chevron Supreme is a very good oil and your conditions are ideal. Get a UOA at 8000 and see how it looks.


This is definitely something to consider. I just ordered sample kits.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
You work as a mechanic?
Any possibility of your putting your personal vehicle up during a break when things aren't busy and doing an oil change with the jug and new filter you'll carry with you?
Are things that tough where you live that you have to drive that distance just to earn a good wage?


I work on big rigs haha. We don't have lifts.
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
Originally Posted By: tomcruise


It's a manual, so it was easy enough to just drain and fill. Only takes 2.2 quarts.



Tom: What did you refill the gearbox with?


It got Valvoline Synthetic 75w90 gear oil
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
You work as a mechanic?
Any possibility of your putting your personal vehicle up during a break when things aren't busy and doing an oil change with the jug and new filter you'll carry with you?
Are things that tough where you live that you have to drive that distance just to earn a good wage?


There aren't any shops in town that really do what I do. Ridgecrest is small and fairly remote. I won't do this commute forever, but it will be my life for the time being.
 
This situation seems ideal for extended drains, lots of nice long highway runs.
I would buy extended drain oil such as Amsoil or Mobil 1 EP and run 15k miles with a good filter like Amsoil EA or Fram Ultra.
With a UOA you may be able to stretch the oci even longer.
 
Gotcha.
You would have pits, though. Any narrow enough for the Focus?
WRT the commute, I've looked at something similar now and then for more $$ and said no thanks.
If I were just starting out, I'd probably do it, though and I would certainly do it if I had to in order to maintain my current level in these last few years before I do my last day at work.
 
Like others have said, I'd go 10-12k using Mobil 1 EP and call it a day, topping up as necessary. No big deal.

It's all highway miles with no traffic, no big deal. I drive 600 miles a week in the same environment...I'm not all that far behind what you're doing and I drive a Lexus LS460 with an eight cylinder. If the job is good some of us think it's worth the commute. I could move closer but I love my house and where I live, it makes it worth it...come to think of it I love driving my car too...makes it a whole lot easier.

Is it just me or does the camshaft look worn on the picture the OP provided? It looks like there's some noticeable cam lob wear...maybe it's nothing.
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
I like engine tear down videos, in this one from Havoline, as per usual, we don't know what the "competitor's" oil is.
It could be 10w30 maple syrup from Canada for all we know.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmbYUNZ5E9w


We we saw some varnish but they failed to show any real data, wear measurements, UOAs, or miles to failure. It may well be the other engine will run every bit as long LOL.
 
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