I wouldn't worry too much about oil. Your folks did a heck of a job taking good care of the internals. What's the maintenance history? I'd be more concerned about that.
176 mile commute....pick my oil
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Originally Posted By: ARB1977
I wouldn't worry too much about oil. Your folks did a heck of a job taking good care of the internals. What's the maintenance history? I'd be more concerned about that.
Chevron Supreme, Motorcraft, or VWB at 5k or so.
I just did the transmission fluid last weekend for the first time.
Dad did the coolant and sparkplugs at 100k
I wouldn't worry too much about oil. Your folks did a heck of a job taking good care of the internals. What's the maintenance history? I'd be more concerned about that.
Chevron Supreme, Motorcraft, or VWB at 5k or so.
I just did the transmission fluid last weekend for the first time.
Dad did the coolant and sparkplugs at 100k
Originally Posted By: Cristobal
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Cristobol;
I like the SAE40 part of your recommendation with it's 3.7 HTHS (which is the same as Delo 15w30), but why the 0W in 100F heat?
I just think it would make matters simpler. Summer heat is around there, but near it are places that see real winters. It is not stereotyped California weather.
If he is around Ridgecrest, he will be in cold temperatures on winter nights, especially at higher altitudes and if he goes north of there. Ridgecrest will see snow on occasion. Ely in Nevada, and Bridgeport, CA are a few hour's drive away and they both can see -20F. in winter. Sooner or later he will be driving over a high altitude hump, staying in a motel there, and getting out in the morning to a very cold engine.
Also, on a very cold winter day when you are coasting downhill from one of those passes your engine temperature will drop a lot of you use your heater. At Towne Pass in Death Valley, going downhill eastbound will give you a road where you can go 70 miles per hour for ten miles straight without touching your accelerator. Literally.
0W-40 Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil can handle that huge temperature range, so that is a solution. It will do for extended drains as well as the severe service in long-distance, high speed driving. Match up that oil or something like it with an extended service filter and he will do great.
It gets dang cold here in winter, for sure.
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Cristobol;
I like the SAE40 part of your recommendation with it's 3.7 HTHS (which is the same as Delo 15w30), but why the 0W in 100F heat?
I just think it would make matters simpler. Summer heat is around there, but near it are places that see real winters. It is not stereotyped California weather.
If he is around Ridgecrest, he will be in cold temperatures on winter nights, especially at higher altitudes and if he goes north of there. Ridgecrest will see snow on occasion. Ely in Nevada, and Bridgeport, CA are a few hour's drive away and they both can see -20F. in winter. Sooner or later he will be driving over a high altitude hump, staying in a motel there, and getting out in the morning to a very cold engine.
Also, on a very cold winter day when you are coasting downhill from one of those passes your engine temperature will drop a lot of you use your heater. At Towne Pass in Death Valley, going downhill eastbound will give you a road where you can go 70 miles per hour for ten miles straight without touching your accelerator. Literally.
0W-40 Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil can handle that huge temperature range, so that is a solution. It will do for extended drains as well as the severe service in long-distance, high speed driving. Match up that oil or something like it with an extended service filter and he will do great.
It gets dang cold here in winter, for sure.
Originally Posted By: BobsArmory
OK, the actual cost of the oil in your situation is very small compared to everything else (gas, tires, general maintenance). I would look at M1 Extended Performance or Castrol Edge Extended Performance. Good quality oil that is designed for extended oil change intervals. Like others have said, do a used oil analysis somewhere around the 8 or 10,000 mile mark and you might find that you can go a few thousand miles further.
Yes you could go with a generic store brand and save a few bucks come oil change time but why? The cost difference between an extended performance oil from Mobil1 or Castrol and Walmart Supertech on a 10,000 mile oil change interval is something like 0.0008 cents per mile. Yes the extra cost is about 8 ten thousandths of a cent per mile for a brand name EP oil!!
Very true.
OK, the actual cost of the oil in your situation is very small compared to everything else (gas, tires, general maintenance). I would look at M1 Extended Performance or Castrol Edge Extended Performance. Good quality oil that is designed for extended oil change intervals. Like others have said, do a used oil analysis somewhere around the 8 or 10,000 mile mark and you might find that you can go a few thousand miles further.
Yes you could go with a generic store brand and save a few bucks come oil change time but why? The cost difference between an extended performance oil from Mobil1 or Castrol and Walmart Supertech on a 10,000 mile oil change interval is something like 0.0008 cents per mile. Yes the extra cost is about 8 ten thousandths of a cent per mile for a brand name EP oil!!
Very true.
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
I'd run motorcraft 5w20 and a motorcraft filter and do 10k mile changes with that commute. The new fords have a 10k mile normal service interval anyway.
Run a 5w20. Don't listen to all the 15w30, 5w30 etc.. 5w20 is spec'd, and does a great job. Plenty of very high mileage vehicles on the roads today running 5w20. It's protected it for 123k it won't stop protecting it during the next 123k.
Good luck!
5w20 that's the plan.
I'd run motorcraft 5w20 and a motorcraft filter and do 10k mile changes with that commute. The new fords have a 10k mile normal service interval anyway.
Run a 5w20. Don't listen to all the 15w30, 5w30 etc.. 5w20 is spec'd, and does a great job. Plenty of very high mileage vehicles on the roads today running 5w20. It's protected it for 123k it won't stop protecting it during the next 123k.
Good luck!
5w20 that's the plan.
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
The thing to also remember is that these Focus engines are a low performance, low friction motor. Similar to the Escorts before them.
They were designed with longevity and little maintenance in mind (mine wasn't even equipped with an air filter from the factory).
They have an air filter, it just isn't serviceable. I found they sell replacement air boxes online that have a removable filter.
This car literally got no maintenance besides tires and oil changes until 100k.
The thing to also remember is that these Focus engines are a low performance, low friction motor. Similar to the Escorts before them.
They were designed with longevity and little maintenance in mind (mine wasn't even equipped with an air filter from the factory).
They have an air filter, it just isn't serviceable. I found they sell replacement air boxes online that have a removable filter.
This car literally got no maintenance besides tires and oil changes until 100k.
Originally Posted By: tomcruise
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
The thing to also remember is that these Focus engines are a low performance, low friction motor. Similar to the Escorts before them.
They were designed with longevity and little maintenance in mind (mine wasn't even equipped with an air filter from the factory).
They have an air filter, it just isn't serviceable. I found they sell replacement air boxes online that have a removable filter.
This car literally got no maintenance besides tires and oil changes until 100k.
If its anything like my 04 2.3 focus, it has that 100,000 mile filter box filled with some kind of foam. Mine had a restriction meter on it. I replaced mine with a pod filter, like a poor mans cold air intake. My airbox wasnt old, I just wanted a little more pep. at the time on one of the focus forums some one ran a couple dyno runs with the original air box, and the poor mans CAI, and found some increased power.
Not sure I would do that on your motor, but its an option if you filter needs to be replaced since im pretty sure those sealed boxes are expensive.
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
The thing to also remember is that these Focus engines are a low performance, low friction motor. Similar to the Escorts before them.
They were designed with longevity and little maintenance in mind (mine wasn't even equipped with an air filter from the factory).
They have an air filter, it just isn't serviceable. I found they sell replacement air boxes online that have a removable filter.
This car literally got no maintenance besides tires and oil changes until 100k.
If its anything like my 04 2.3 focus, it has that 100,000 mile filter box filled with some kind of foam. Mine had a restriction meter on it. I replaced mine with a pod filter, like a poor mans cold air intake. My airbox wasnt old, I just wanted a little more pep. at the time on one of the focus forums some one ran a couple dyno runs with the original air box, and the poor mans CAI, and found some increased power.
Not sure I would do that on your motor, but its an option if you filter needs to be replaced since im pretty sure those sealed boxes are expensive.
I'm doing the same distance every day (although I get paid for driving). All our cars /vans are on a 15-20k km OCI, we have some hitting half a million km. My suggestion would be that you use ACEA A3 oils - not because you actually need higher HT-HS viscosity, but because those oils are formulated for long distances. M1 0w40 seems to be the favourite choice from Bitogers in USA.
Originally Posted By: tomcruise
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
I wouldn't worry too much about oil. Your folks did a heck of a job taking good care of the internals. What's the maintenance history? I'd be more concerned about that.
Chevron Supreme, Motorcraft, or VWB at 5k or so.
I just did the transmission fluid last weekend for the first time.
Dad did the coolant and sparkplugs at 100k
Hey these oils are great. No problem if you picked them. Good job on the transmission fluid change. I do a simple drain and fill once a year on mine. I did a complete change which included a torque converter drain and replaced all the fluid. From here on out I plan on a simple annual drain and fill to keep refreshing the fluid.
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
I wouldn't worry too much about oil. Your folks did a heck of a job taking good care of the internals. What's the maintenance history? I'd be more concerned about that.
Chevron Supreme, Motorcraft, or VWB at 5k or so.
I just did the transmission fluid last weekend for the first time.
Dad did the coolant and sparkplugs at 100k
Hey these oils are great. No problem if you picked them. Good job on the transmission fluid change. I do a simple drain and fill once a year on mine. I did a complete change which included a torque converter drain and replaced all the fluid. From here on out I plan on a simple annual drain and fill to keep refreshing the fluid.
If it were my car Id probably look at the cost/comfort factor of 3 diff scenarios.
1. Likely the least expensive is the microgreen regimen- 1 sump for 30K using 3 filters each changed out at 10K then add makeup oil.
You have to buy them on line but if you buy 2 packs on sale you can get them for about 7-8 bucks a piece.
They don't call for synthetic but no way I would run that schedule on dino.
Ive taken it out to 20K on one sump and 2 filters but chickened out going further- still a good deal.
2. A Fram Ultra for 15K, with one topside change at 7500-10K and a filter change at 15k.
Fewer filter changes, but more oil used over time.
This is the easiest regimen in terms of acquisition - you can find the filters, on the shelf and oil anywhere.
For those afraid, or skeptical of the newer dual stage filter technology this is a comfortable proven regimen.
3. An Amsoil filter and Amsoil oil every 15K (I think they pulled back their 25K mile ratings as some rigs put out to much sludge)
Mail order oil and filters only. Expensive oil, expensive filters, but very very good stuff.
Happy reducing your maintenance time, and intervals whatever scenario, regimen you ultimately pick!
UD
1. Likely the least expensive is the microgreen regimen- 1 sump for 30K using 3 filters each changed out at 10K then add makeup oil.
You have to buy them on line but if you buy 2 packs on sale you can get them for about 7-8 bucks a piece.
They don't call for synthetic but no way I would run that schedule on dino.
Ive taken it out to 20K on one sump and 2 filters but chickened out going further- still a good deal.
2. A Fram Ultra for 15K, with one topside change at 7500-10K and a filter change at 15k.
Fewer filter changes, but more oil used over time.
This is the easiest regimen in terms of acquisition - you can find the filters, on the shelf and oil anywhere.
For those afraid, or skeptical of the newer dual stage filter technology this is a comfortable proven regimen.
3. An Amsoil filter and Amsoil oil every 15K (I think they pulled back their 25K mile ratings as some rigs put out to much sludge)
Mail order oil and filters only. Expensive oil, expensive filters, but very very good stuff.
Happy reducing your maintenance time, and intervals whatever scenario, regimen you ultimately pick!
UD
Go with Amsoil SS that is good for 25,000 miles, but use UOA to verify.
Change to Amsoil oil every six months OCI.
Change the oil filter every three months, go with Fram Ultra or M1EP oil filter.
Change to Amsoil oil every six months OCI.
Change the oil filter every three months, go with Fram Ultra or M1EP oil filter.
I like engine tear down videos, in this one from Havoline, as per usual, we don't know what the "competitor's" oil is.
It could be 10w30 maple syrup from Canada for all we know.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmbYUNZ5E9w
It could be 10w30 maple syrup from Canada for all we know.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmbYUNZ5E9w
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Originally Posted By: camryrolla
Go with Amsoil SS that is good for 25,000 miles, but use UOA to verify.
Change to Amsoil oil every six months OCI.
Change the oil filter every three months, go with Fram Ultra or M1EP oil filter.
+1 to this, only I would leave the filter on for the whole interval.
Go with Amsoil SS that is good for 25,000 miles, but use UOA to verify.
Change to Amsoil oil every six months OCI.
Change the oil filter every three months, go with Fram Ultra or M1EP oil filter.
+1 to this, only I would leave the filter on for the whole interval.
Originally Posted By: MRtv
Originally Posted By: tomcruise
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
I wouldn't worry too much about oil. Your folks did a heck of a job taking good care of the internals. What's the maintenance history? I'd be more concerned about that.
Chevron Supreme, Motorcraft, or VWB at 5k or so.
I just did the transmission fluid last weekend for the first time.
Dad did the coolant and sparkplugs at 100k
Hey these oils are great. No problem if you picked them. Good job on the transmission fluid change. I do a simple drain and fill once a year on mine. I did a complete change which included a torque converter drain and replaced all the fluid. From here on out I plan on a simple annual drain and fill to keep refreshing the fluid.
It's a manual, so it was easy enoughto just drain and fill. Only takes 2.2 quarts.
Originally Posted By: tomcruise
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
I wouldn't worry too much about oil. Your folks did a heck of a job taking good care of the internals. What's the maintenance history? I'd be more concerned about that.
Chevron Supreme, Motorcraft, or VWB at 5k or so.
I just did the transmission fluid last weekend for the first time.
Dad did the coolant and sparkplugs at 100k
Hey these oils are great. No problem if you picked them. Good job on the transmission fluid change. I do a simple drain and fill once a year on mine. I did a complete change which included a torque converter drain and replaced all the fluid. From here on out I plan on a simple annual drain and fill to keep refreshing the fluid.
It's a manual, so it was easy enoughto just drain and fill. Only takes 2.2 quarts.
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
I like engine tear down videos, in this one from Havoline, as per usual, we don't know what the "competitor's" oil is.
It could be 10w30 maple syrup from Canada for all we know.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmbYUNZ5E9w
Sure didn't look like a synthetic equivalent to me.
To the filter regimen I added above the oil I would pick would be the best deal and most available of this group I could get off a shelf out of these choices-
PUP 0/5/10-30/40
PP 0/5/10-30/40
M1 0/5/10-30/40
Castrol Magnatec - same ranges
Alternatively/ controversially you could probably go really cheap full Sythnetic oil you could go with the Full syn Supertech which is actually pretty good for the money an keep very high OCI's and be fine.
Bitoggers like 0W40 on whole for a variety of reasons - mine are that its available in bulk nearly everywhere for really low cost, and out hold ups under brutal conditions beyond even what any auto can possibly put on it - beautifully- my ILMOR 710 is a 505 CI/8.3 Litre v10 will belt out 700 HP for hours on end then idle like a kitten for half an hour, its clean as a whistle inside it.
Good enough for ILMOR engineering - good enough for Uncle Dave
(My spell correct turns Castrol to Castro, and I was not suggesting a Cuban Dictator be selected)
UD
I like engine tear down videos, in this one from Havoline, as per usual, we don't know what the "competitor's" oil is.
It could be 10w30 maple syrup from Canada for all we know.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmbYUNZ5E9w
Sure didn't look like a synthetic equivalent to me.
To the filter regimen I added above the oil I would pick would be the best deal and most available of this group I could get off a shelf out of these choices-
PUP 0/5/10-30/40
PP 0/5/10-30/40
M1 0/5/10-30/40
Castrol Magnatec - same ranges
Alternatively/ controversially you could probably go really cheap full Sythnetic oil you could go with the Full syn Supertech which is actually pretty good for the money an keep very high OCI's and be fine.
Bitoggers like 0W40 on whole for a variety of reasons - mine are that its available in bulk nearly everywhere for really low cost, and out hold ups under brutal conditions beyond even what any auto can possibly put on it - beautifully- my ILMOR 710 is a 505 CI/8.3 Litre v10 will belt out 700 HP for hours on end then idle like a kitten for half an hour, its clean as a whistle inside it.
Good enough for ILMOR engineering - good enough for Uncle Dave
(My spell correct turns Castrol to Castro, and I was not suggesting a Cuban Dictator be selected)
UD
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if it ain't broke...
Stick with what you're doing. Both are solid oils and motorcraft oil filters are pretty decent.
Stick with what you're doing. Both are solid oils and motorcraft oil filters are pretty decent.
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
if it ain't broke...
Stick with what you're doing. Both are solid oils and motorcraft oil filters are pretty decent.
As much as I often use that saying myself - it is "broke" as I understand it.
The OP wants an alternative to 10+ oil changes a year, but not compromise longevity, a fair and doable request.
UD
if it ain't broke...
Stick with what you're doing. Both are solid oils and motorcraft oil filters are pretty decent.
As much as I often use that saying myself - it is "broke" as I understand it.
The OP wants an alternative to 10+ oil changes a year, but not compromise longevity, a fair and doable request.
UD
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Originally Posted By: UncleDave
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
if it ain't broke...
Stick with what you're doing. Both are solid oils and motorcraft oil filters are pretty decent.
As much as I often use that saying myself - it is "broke" as I understand it.
The OP wants an alternative to 10+ oil changes a year, but not compromise longevity, a fair and doable request.
UD
Yup! Oil change about once a month, or extending to 3 months..... IMO 15k should be EASILY doable with UOA. Although his parents' strategy of 5k with VWB etc is great, OP is driving much further - and doing it daily.
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
if it ain't broke...
Stick with what you're doing. Both are solid oils and motorcraft oil filters are pretty decent.
As much as I often use that saying myself - it is "broke" as I understand it.
The OP wants an alternative to 10+ oil changes a year, but not compromise longevity, a fair and doable request.
UD
Yup! Oil change about once a month, or extending to 3 months..... IMO 15k should be EASILY doable with UOA. Although his parents' strategy of 5k with VWB etc is great, OP is driving much further - and doing it daily.
People dont realize what a drive like this does to your life.
It turns your 8hour work day into a 10+ hour work day.and your 10hour day into 12+. God help you if you have to work a few 12hr days...
So you have 10-20hrs less a week to do ANYTHING outside of work. So you need the weekends to do the menial household stuff, and finding time for an oil Change is a real hassle.
Monthly oil changes are not real practical ... Which is why I went to doing them every 3 months.
"doing what has been working" is the least favorite option. Proven by the fact that he posted the question.
It turns your 8hour work day into a 10+ hour work day.and your 10hour day into 12+. God help you if you have to work a few 12hr days...
So you have 10-20hrs less a week to do ANYTHING outside of work. So you need the weekends to do the menial household stuff, and finding time for an oil Change is a real hassle.
Monthly oil changes are not real practical ... Which is why I went to doing them every 3 months.
"doing what has been working" is the least favorite option. Proven by the fact that he posted the question.
Originally Posted By: meborder
People dont realize what a drive like this does to your life.
It turns your 8hour work day into a 10+ hour work day.and your 10hour day into 12+. God help you if you have to work a few 12hr days...
So you have 10-20hrs less a week to do ANYTHING outside of work. So you need the weekends to do the menial household stuff, and finding time for an oil Change is a real hassle.
Monthly oil changes are not real practical ... Which is why I went to doing them every 3 months.
"doing what has been working" is the least favorite option. Proven by the fact that he posted the question.
I do a few 10 hour days plus my 3 hrs round trip commute...
Yes, the point of me asking is because I don't really feel like changing oil every month. I work as a mechanic and working on stuff at home is something that I don't really want to do.
People dont realize what a drive like this does to your life.
It turns your 8hour work day into a 10+ hour work day.and your 10hour day into 12+. God help you if you have to work a few 12hr days...
So you have 10-20hrs less a week to do ANYTHING outside of work. So you need the weekends to do the menial household stuff, and finding time for an oil Change is a real hassle.
Monthly oil changes are not real practical ... Which is why I went to doing them every 3 months.
"doing what has been working" is the least favorite option. Proven by the fact that he posted the question.
I do a few 10 hour days plus my 3 hrs round trip commute...
Yes, the point of me asking is because I don't really feel like changing oil every month. I work as a mechanic and working on stuff at home is something that I don't really want to do.
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