Mobil 1 0w-40 or Pennzoil Euro 5w-40???

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Originally Posted By: GenaFishbeck
Actually Russian Tech, there’s a couple ways you could go with this. We recommend Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 and/or 5W-40 full synthetic motor oils which are all API SN certified.

Here’s why: In the 2001 BMW 330ci Owner’s Manual, we see that the oil specified is: “high performance synthetic motor oil that carries the API SH rating and is a 5W-30 or 5W-40 viscosity grade (both viscosity grades may be used for driving in all various ambient conditions).”

BMW owner's manuals were somewhat vague on this back then, so I can see where you could get confused and just dump any old API SH oil in and try to run 15K miles with it. In reality, BMW has back specc'ed his M54 engine to require an oil meeting the LL-01 spec, which the regular PP/PUP 5w-30 oils don't meet.

Granted, I wouldn't expect his engine to blow up even if he did run it.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: stchman


As far as Euro car oil, I pretty much think that is mostly [censored].

The Euro specs are in fact what makes the oil capable of these long oil change intervals. I would not call it [censored].
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: stchman


As far as Euro car oil, I pretty much think that is mostly [censored].

The Euro specs are in fact what makes the oil capable of these long oil change intervals. I would not call it [censored].



Mobil 1 Extended Performance is 15K, Amsoil Signature claims 25K, both of them aren't "European Car Oil", so yes, [censored].
 
Originally Posted By: stchman
Mobil 1 Extended Performance is 15K, Amsoil Signature claims 25K, both of them aren't "European Car Oil", so yes, [censored].

My point was that you can use an oil that does not specifically claim 15K or 25K or whatever number of miles, and still use it as a long drain oil based on the Euro mfg approvals that it meets.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: stchman
Mobil 1 Extended Performance is 15K, Amsoil Signature claims 25K, both of them aren't "European Car Oil", so yes, [censored].

My point was that you can use an oil that does not specifically claim 15K or 25K or whatever number of miles, and still use it as a long drain oil based on the Euro mfg approvals that it meets.


People see "European Car Formula" and get all excited to put it in their European car.

People that own Volvos or Volkswagens aren't all hung up on Euro car formula oils, nothing like the BMW, Audi, Mercedes, maybe they should call it "High Priced German Car Formula".
 
Originally Posted By: stchman
People that own Volvos or Volkswagens aren't all hung up on Euro car formula oils, nothing like the BMW, Audi, Mercedes, maybe they should call it "High Priced German Car Formula".

Not sure what your personal hang-up is. M1 0w-40 (Euro Formula) does not cost any more than any other M1 grade. Similarly, Castrol Edge 0w-40 does not cost any more than any other Castrol Edge grade.

BTW, all current Volkswagens require an oil meeting VW 502.00 spec, so in essence an oil marketed as "Euro Formula." Granted, euro formula is just a generic term. It's better to look at the actual mfg specs listed on the back of the bottle.
 
It looks like varnish too me.

Over extended OCI's.
Improperly serviced PCV/egr systems.
Excessive idle time.
Lots of low speed operation in hot,humid conditions.

Never seen a cleaner dumped into an engine like Auto-RX, LC20, B12 etc....that would remove varnish from area's with little flow. On the other hand a stiff bristled brush and some B12 will clean anything you can get too for about $7 including price of the brush.Likewise never seen an oil not PAO or Ester based that would remove varnish from mostly splash lubed area's.

Prior to PP and it's cleaning action M1 0W40 was about as good as it got from an OTC/OTS motor oils interms of cleaning action.

No oil protects well when the OCI is over extended. Few OEM's if any have a warranty period long enough to worry about deposits like varnish. Sludge and piston ring deposits are an issue for them but not varnish. If warranty and the first owner are the primary concerns then you can get away with some pretty poor maintenance schedules.This is great for people that lease and those that let the dealership do all the required maintenance.
 
It looks like varnish too me.

Over extended OCI's.
Improperly serviced PCV/egr systems.
Excessive idle time.
Lots of low speed operation in hot,humid conditions.

Never seen a cleaner dumped into an engine like Auto-RX, LC20, B12 etc....that would remove varnish from area's with little flow. On the other hand a stiff bristled brush and some B12 will clean anything you can get too for about $7 including price of the brush.Likewise never seen an oil not PAO or Ester based that would remove varnish from mostly splash lubed area's.

Prior to PP and it's cleaning action M1 0W40 was about as good as it got from an OTC/OTS motor oils interms of cleaning action.

No oil protects well when the OCI is over extended. Few OEM's if any have a warranty period long enough to worry about deposits like varnish. Sludge and piston ring deposits are an issue for them but not varnish. If warranty and the first owner are the primary concerns then you can get away with some pretty poor maintenance schedules.This is great for people that lease and those that let the dealership do all the required maintenance.

Anyone going more then 12 months between oil changes with out bypass filtration and plenty of make up oil should not be allowed to own a motor vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: JFK
Anyone going more then 12 months between oil changes with out bypass filtration and plenty of make up oil should not be allowed to own a motor vehicle.


Really?

That is what I do: 18 months and/or 10 k miles with no make up oil, and engine is still spotless inside from what I can see... at keast no varnish.

Could you explain me now what I should not own my car?
 
Originally Posted By: JohnnyMerrill
That's not sludge, but mayonnaise: A mixture of oil and water. Give it a good thrashing once a week or so to boil off the water that has accumulated in the oil and keep the 15k interval.

Euro oils are good for the factory OCI, regardless of what the miles might be. Especially when Shell/Pennzoil is what the manufacturer uses.

Agreed and a bit rusty at that... Likely from short tripping that's preventing the condensation in valve cover from boiling off... Mostly it's a cold weather issue but there's a fair chance the entire valve cover appears same inside, I'd be pulling the cover to inspect and clean if necessary...
 
Originally Posted By: JFK

Anyone going more then 12 months between oil changes with out bypass filtration and plenty of make up oil should not be allowed to own a motor vehicle.


In your opinion which in this case means ZIP... I'll run my Grand Marquis 8-10K mi in 15-16 months without adding and have no mayonnaise or sludge... No I don't generally short trip, plus many of these issues are in the engine design...
 
Originally Posted By: JFK

Prior to PP and it's cleaning action M1 0W40 was about as good as it got from an OTC/OTS motor oils interms of cleaning action.



Nothing has ever been presented to demonstrate that PP/PU clean any better than M1 0w-40.
 
Independent tests, heavily promoted by SOPUS and not so much as a whimper about it from Mobil in response doesn't count?
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Independent tests, heavily promoted by SOPUS and not so much as a whimper about it from Mobil in response doesn't count?


That was ONLY for the 5w-30 grade, it was never for the Euro oils:

UltraPlatinumPistonCleanSlider.jpg


Note the verbiage at the bottom:

"Based on Sequence VG sludge test using SAE 5w-30. Pistons from standard V6 engine in ASTM Sequence IIIG test."
 
Originally Posted By: JFK

Anyone going more then 12 months between oil changes with out bypass filtration and plenty of make up oil should not be allowed to own a motor vehicle.

Seriously? We're taking you too literally, right?
Kevin
 
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