I've got a '99 Ford Ranger 4.0L which had about 160K miles. I decided to keep the vehicle but had the engine overhauled. I did some research on engine oils and caught my interest in using the 0w-30 synthetic oil after the 500 mile post overhaul break in. It's generally accepted belief that most of the engine wear occur at start up and that the 0w oil was designed to provide immediate lubrication to various engine parts during cold start up but still maintain high quality lubrication at high engine temperatures. After 20K miles on the overhauled engine would it be prudent economically to use 5W-30 oil instead without sacrificing protection?
0W-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil
- Thread starter DonSoriano
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in your area, not even worth thinking about.
5w-30 is fine;
5w-30 is fine;
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If you are going to use a synthetic 0W-30 and 5W-30 are the same cost and there would be no detriment to using 0W-30, so go for it.
The 0w30 is claimed by some to have a higher % of PAO. Its good oil no doubt, i wouldn't have a reservations using it.
Originally Posted By: DonSoriano
After 20K miles on the overhauled engine would it be prudent economically to use 5W-30 oil instead without sacrificing protection?
Economically? At Walmart, 0w-30 costs the same as 5w-30.
In your climate, there isn't going to be much difference between these two when it comes to cold start up lubrication.
After 20K miles on the overhauled engine would it be prudent economically to use 5W-30 oil instead without sacrificing protection?
Economically? At Walmart, 0w-30 costs the same as 5w-30.
In your climate, there isn't going to be much difference between these two when it comes to cold start up lubrication.
There is almost $12.00 different between a 5 qt synthetic and a 5 quart good quality standard oil. When using the 0w-30 Mobil Syn oil, I changed oil every 7K miles. If I use the standard oil I will change oil every 5K miles. Does this make any sense?
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
in your area, not even worth thinking about.
5w-30 is fine;
Or 10w30, or 15w40...
Remember, what an 0w oil gains in cold flow properties, it loses in other areas, like shear resistance and noack... granted, with modern oils, the differences are less than in the past, but they are still there...
0w oils are of greatest benefit in extreme cold temps , as in below 0*f cold... it was -5*f this morning where I live, and, yes, I do use 0w30...
Where YOU live, however, there really isn't much to gain... Even a 10w30 is absolutely fine... and some would argue , actually a BETTER choice...
in your area, not even worth thinking about.
5w-30 is fine;
Or 10w30, or 15w40...
Remember, what an 0w oil gains in cold flow properties, it loses in other areas, like shear resistance and noack... granted, with modern oils, the differences are less than in the past, but they are still there...
0w oils are of greatest benefit in extreme cold temps , as in below 0*f cold... it was -5*f this morning where I live, and, yes, I do use 0w30...
Where YOU live, however, there really isn't much to gain... Even a 10w30 is absolutely fine... and some would argue , actually a BETTER choice...
I tried to see what Mobil website recommends oil grade(s) for my Honda S2000, after entered requested info it recommended M1 10W30 EP as the first choice, M1 0W30 as second choice and M1 10W30 as third choice, then other various 10W30 but no 5W30.
From this recommendation I think Mobil is very confidence that their M1 0W30 AFE is very good oil and can be used in place of 10W30, and it is better than 5W30 in term of shear resistance.
From this recommendation I think Mobil is very confidence that their M1 0W30 AFE is very good oil and can be used in place of 10W30, and it is better than 5W30 in term of shear resistance.
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Originally Posted By: DonSoriano
I've got a '99 Ford Ranger 4.0L which had about 160K miles. I decided to keep the vehicle but had the engine overhauled. I did some research on engine oils and caught my interest in using the 0w-30 synthetic oil after the 500 mile post overhaul break in. It's generally accepted belief that most of the engine wear occur at start up and that the 0w oil was designed to provide immediate lubrication to various engine parts during cold start up but still maintain high quality lubrication at high engine temperatures. After 20K miles on the overhauled engine would it be prudent economically to use 5W-30 oil instead without sacrificing protection?
What had happened to your engine to require a rebuild? All of that startup wear bologne is just a marketing myth. Your 4.0 doesn't spec or need a 0W oil. If you want a synth I'd go with M1/Edge/Synpower,etc 10W30.
I've got a '99 Ford Ranger 4.0L which had about 160K miles. I decided to keep the vehicle but had the engine overhauled. I did some research on engine oils and caught my interest in using the 0w-30 synthetic oil after the 500 mile post overhaul break in. It's generally accepted belief that most of the engine wear occur at start up and that the 0w oil was designed to provide immediate lubrication to various engine parts during cold start up but still maintain high quality lubrication at high engine temperatures. After 20K miles on the overhauled engine would it be prudent economically to use 5W-30 oil instead without sacrificing protection?
What had happened to your engine to require a rebuild? All of that startup wear bologne is just a marketing myth. Your 4.0 doesn't spec or need a 0W oil. If you want a synth I'd go with M1/Edge/Synpower,etc 10W30.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
From this recommendation I think Mobil is very confidence that their M1 0W30 AFE is very good oil and can be used in place of 10W30, and it is better than 5W30 in term of shear resistance.
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Remember, what an 0w oil gains in cold flow properties, it loses in other areas, like shear resistance and noack...
Not sure whom I should believe. I tend to believe the latter.
From this recommendation I think Mobil is very confidence that their M1 0W30 AFE is very good oil and can be used in place of 10W30, and it is better than 5W30 in term of shear resistance.
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Remember, what an 0w oil gains in cold flow properties, it loses in other areas, like shear resistance and noack...
Not sure whom I should believe. I tend to believe the latter.
Originally Posted By: JerryBob
Not sure whom I should believe. I tend to believe the latter.
Both statements can be correct, just as well as both statements can be wrong. It really depends on the formulation and the quality of base oils used in each individual oil.
Not sure whom I should believe. I tend to believe the latter.
Both statements can be correct, just as well as both statements can be wrong. It really depends on the formulation and the quality of base oils used in each individual oil.
Originally Posted By: Trav
The 0w30 is claimed by some to have a higher % of PAO. Its good oil no doubt, i wouldn't have a reservations using it.
The 0w cold temperature criteria are extreme... and some claim that an oil NEEDS some exotic ingredients to be able to pass those tests... the cold pumping test temp is -40*c . And 0w oil used to be more expensive...
On the flip side, the cold pumping test is at -40*c , do most people really need an 0w oil...? Not sure I even do... the difference between a synthetic 5w and an 0w is hard to measure. Both seem to work fine in my engines...lowest temps this winter about -29*c , or -20*f...
The 0w30 is claimed by some to have a higher % of PAO. Its good oil no doubt, i wouldn't have a reservations using it.
The 0w cold temperature criteria are extreme... and some claim that an oil NEEDS some exotic ingredients to be able to pass those tests... the cold pumping test temp is -40*c . And 0w oil used to be more expensive...
On the flip side, the cold pumping test is at -40*c , do most people really need an 0w oil...? Not sure I even do... the difference between a synthetic 5w and an 0w is hard to measure. Both seem to work fine in my engines...lowest temps this winter about -29*c , or -20*f...
It developed a knocking sound which according to three "expert" mechanics pointed to three different problems, depending to which mechanic you talked to - piston pin, piston slap and piston bearing. The noise predominant only at idling. One major factor that purported me to have the engine overhauled was that I had a hairline crack in the no. and no. 4 cylinders. Also at one pointed my heater hose busted while driving at high way speed on the freeway. After I repaired that I noticed some emulsification in my radiator, meaning that somewhere oil is getting into the cooling chamber. But then I also had been saving cash for this event so dishing out $2.5K for a half way good vehicle is better that going in debt for $30K or so. I will use a good quality 5W-30 oil however for my next oil 5000 mile oil change.
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Originally Posted By: geeman789
Originally Posted By: Trav
The 0w30 is claimed by some to have a higher % of PAO. Its good oil no doubt, i wouldn't have a reservations using it.
The 0w cold temperature criteria are extreme... and some claim that an oil NEEDS some exotic ingredients to be able to pass those tests... the cold pumping test temp is -40*c . And 0w oil used to be more expensive...
On the flip side, the cold pumping test is at -40*c , do most people really need an 0w oil...? Not sure I even do... the difference between a synthetic 5w and an 0w is hard to measure. Both seem to work fine in my engines...lowest temps this winter about -29*c , or -20*f...
It isn't hard to measure at all, it is actually a pretty simple calculation actually.
Originally Posted By: Trav
The 0w30 is claimed by some to have a higher % of PAO. Its good oil no doubt, i wouldn't have a reservations using it.
The 0w cold temperature criteria are extreme... and some claim that an oil NEEDS some exotic ingredients to be able to pass those tests... the cold pumping test temp is -40*c . And 0w oil used to be more expensive...
On the flip side, the cold pumping test is at -40*c , do most people really need an 0w oil...? Not sure I even do... the difference between a synthetic 5w and an 0w is hard to measure. Both seem to work fine in my engines...lowest temps this winter about -29*c , or -20*f...
It isn't hard to measure at all, it is actually a pretty simple calculation actually.
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Originally Posted By: JerryBob
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
From this recommendation I think Mobil is very confidence that their M1 0W30 AFE is very good oil and can be used in place of 10W30, and it is better than 5W30 in term of shear resistance.
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Remember, what an 0w oil gains in cold flow properties, it loses in other areas, like shear resistance and noack...
Not sure whom I should believe. I tend to believe the latter.
M1 0w-40 has a NOACK of 8.8%, which is significantly less than many oils with a far narrower viscosity spread.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
From this recommendation I think Mobil is very confidence that their M1 0W30 AFE is very good oil and can be used in place of 10W30, and it is better than 5W30 in term of shear resistance.
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Remember, what an 0w oil gains in cold flow properties, it loses in other areas, like shear resistance and noack...
Not sure whom I should believe. I tend to believe the latter.
M1 0w-40 has a NOACK of 8.8%, which is significantly less than many oils with a far narrower viscosity spread.
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Originally Posted By: Lex94
Like geeman789 stated...I say you are better off with 10w30 in San Diego...Less VII polymers - all the better.
OK, but oils like Redline 5w-30 have no VII polymers.....
Like geeman789 stated...I say you are better off with 10w30 in San Diego...Less VII polymers - all the better.
OK, but oils like Redline 5w-30 have no VII polymers.....
Let's Keep Things Simple for the OP:
For cold starts in California, Mobil 1 5W-30 will have an advantage over their 0W-30, whose true worth doesn't come into play until well below zero.
Either oil is more than adequate for a 16 year old truck.
For cold starts in California, Mobil 1 5W-30 will have an advantage over their 0W-30, whose true worth doesn't come into play until well below zero.
Either oil is more than adequate for a 16 year old truck.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: JerryBob
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
From this recommendation I think Mobil is very confidence that their M1 0W30 AFE is very good oil and can be used in place of 10W30, and it is better than 5W30 in term of shear resistance.
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Remember, what an 0w oil gains in cold flow properties, it loses in other areas, like shear resistance and noack...
Not sure whom I should believe. I tend to believe the latter.
M1 0w-40 has a NOACK of 8.8%, which is significantly less than many oils with a far narrower viscosity spread.
But how does Noack relate to shear resistance?
Originally Posted By: JerryBob
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
From this recommendation I think Mobil is very confidence that their M1 0W30 AFE is very good oil and can be used in place of 10W30, and it is better than 5W30 in term of shear resistance.
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Remember, what an 0w oil gains in cold flow properties, it loses in other areas, like shear resistance and noack...
Not sure whom I should believe. I tend to believe the latter.
M1 0w-40 has a NOACK of 8.8%, which is significantly less than many oils with a far narrower viscosity spread.
But how does Noack relate to shear resistance?
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