Redhawk454
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- Dec 30, 2022
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Yes°F = American ?
Yes°F = American ?
I would use what the manual recommends particularly during the warranty. If there are any issues under warranty, you don’t want to get into an evidentiary dispute about whether the oil choice (as shown in any receipts that would be required to verify service if the car is not dealer serviced) caused an issue. Note that I am not saying such a choice would be the reason for a failure (akin to as likely as Santa coming down the chimney) but as a customer you do not want to be in the position of having to argue with a company that is a lot bigger, and has a lot more money and resources, than the average person.
As far as those who think that Subaru, or any of the major manufacturers, would sacrifice their reputation with the consumer and offer a faulty oil recommendation, I would offer that buying a factory extended warranty out to 100k - 125k miles that covers just the powertrain is typically very cheap. No one has better reliability information that the manufacturer (they get to see the service and warranty claims, the parts demand, etc.) This tells me that the risk of serious powertrain issues on these cars is low, as reflected in the warranty cost. By contrast, it is when you add in coverage for gizmos and gadgets to 100k or longer that these warranties get quite costly. Again, that tells me where the actual risk is.
Fwiw, we have a 2023 Outback we bought last January. Factory recommended fill is 0w20. HTH and good luck.
Looks like both the FB20 and FB25 recommend 0W-16 with "0W-20 conventional" being allowed for replenishment, and thicker viscosity being required in hot temps. That "replenishment" language as been around since ~2011 and the thicker viscosity language even longer than that. It was in my 2004 Forester XT manual. Several years ago, I was back and forth with a Subaru CSR asking them to find a conventional 5W-40 that I could use in FXT. They couldn't find one.I still don't know what engine is in the OP's car, and yet all these
"recommendations" ...
My family are on our second FB 2.0. Ours have run fine on 0W/5W-20 though past posts show I am not a proponent of 20 grade lubes.
I am not a fan of VM laden 5W30 lubes either. Less VM (aka: VII) the better for longevity and quiet running - though the temporary shear action improves economy purportedly, along with necessary CCS and product cost/pricing targets.
Got one in the Ford now (see my sig). Engine is not a happy camper.
500k miles is not a realistic service life for a passenger vehicle. The engine may last but literally every other system of the car will need to be overhauled to be reliable. This leaves to the side issues like the AC working, the seats being worn out, etc. 200-250k is a realistic service life for a passenger vehicle.
Here is a 500,000 mile Ford Escape with a logbook of things...500k miles is not a realistic service life for a passenger vehicle. The engine may last but literally every other system of the car will need to be overhauled to be reliable. This leaves to the side issues like the AC working, the seats being worn out, etc. 200-250k is a realistic service life for a passenger vehicle.
Why? Just use the oil you want.Just mix a couple quarts of a 30 grade oil with some 20. That’s what I do in my Legacy that says to use 0w20.
Applies to automation in general - commissioning and “getting the bugs out“ for a period - runs well for a long period - finally age starts to cause more and more NPT etc …Never knew of this terminology
What gives you the idea that thicker oil [0W-30] might be counter productive?yes, I did answer my own question kindof but i'm paranoid that a thicker oil like 0w-30 might be counter productive
Isn’t the Subaru commercial all about they’re the longest lasting longest owned vehicles on the road?Subaru, like all manufacturers, knows that most people trade in before 100k miles, or when the warranty expires, or mayhaps they trade in every 10 years. I want 500k+ miles out of any vehicle I own. I'm looking at my roo long term.
A 20-grade oil is on the cusp of what most engines can tolerate without modification and not incur excessive wear under most circumstances. After that some design changes are typically incorporated to permit thinner oils, such as wider bearing surfaces, not clearances. It's also why ILSAC GF-6B uses a different logo.ex gf had a 2011 impreza that i think has the same natty 2.5 liter engine and it called for 5w-30. I'm not sure why that engine requires 5w-30 and mine calls for 0w-16/20. Other than CAFE reasons. i really wonder if the clearances became tighter.
How do the clearances handle it?I constantly put the engine under load when i'm driving up the mountains in Colorado, i'd prefer the 30 weight for extra protection if the clearances can handle it.