Drain plug is damp, ideas?

[Klutch9]

My Sedona has aluminum crush washers on the oil and transmission fluid pans. So far, I've changed the oil 3 times with this vehicle, and the tranny fluid 3 times as well, and I've kept re-using the washers, since they still seat nicely and do not leak at all. Well, until now. After a tranny fluid drain/fill about a month and a half ago, I notice that the drain plug is damp. I've watched it on several occasions for a couple minutes each, and I've never seen it drip, it just always looks wet. I know the logical answer is to drain the fluid out and use a new washer, but I just finished 3 drain/fills with Amsoil and am not about to drain more fluid unnecessarily. I had hoped to be done with drain/fills for the next year or so. So I'm wondering if this temporary shadetree fix would work: I have this stuff called Permatex Grey. It's a flexible gasket maker that is heat resistant, oil resistant, and peels off pretty easy when you don't want it there any more. I figure I could just coat around the 'seating' diameter of the drain plug and be good for awhile. I don't see any harm in doing this, but I need confirmation

 

[CharBaby]

The Prematex probably won't adhere to the oily surface so, I'd rule that out.

Try giving the drain plug one more snug(1/16-1/8 turn) without overtightening it completely. If you can just bearly see it starting to move. But, that's it! Otherwise, I'd leave it until the next change of ATF.

 

[147_Grain]

You can only get away with reusing the crush washers a few times and yours is likely worn-out.

I'd recheck the transmission drain plug for tightness and hopefully nurse it along until you get some extra crush washers (hint, hint) - only using the Permatex Gey as a last resort and it may not even adhere properly to the oily surface.

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
The Prematex probably won't adhere to the oily surface so, I'd rule that out.

Try giving the drain plug one more snug(1/16-1/8 turn) without overtightening it completely. If you can just bearly see it starting to move. But, that's it! Otherwise, I'd leave it until the next change of ATF.


I already gave it a little turn about 3 weeks ago, and it moved more easily than I'd have thought. Maybe I should see if it needs another little bit?

 

[Trav]

The simple answer is drain it into a new clean container, change the washer and put the fluid back in.

 

[Donald]

You can remove the drain plug and replace the crush washer without making a total mess. Just have an extra person to change the washer as your thumb will be in the drain hole. Obviously do it cold. I have done it.

I personally like Oil-Tite (brand) drain plug washers. They are metal outside and rubber inside. Other brands make them also.

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: Klutch9
My Sedona has aluminum crush washers on the oil and transmission fluid pans. So far, I've changed the oil 3 times with this vehicle, and the tranny fluid 3 times as well, and I've kept re-using the washers


Here's your sign.

 

[Rand]

on my subaru the MT has a giant washer that doesnt really "crush" .. its been reused quite a few times

The oil pan crush washer is a totally collapsing one use type so.. I have a stack of those.

sounds like you need to buy a couple as you have found out 2-3 uses is about it for you.

dont use permatex anything except as last resort.

 

[AKhan87]

Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
You can only get away with reusing the crush washers a few times and yours is likely worn-out.

I'd recheck the transmission drain plug for tightness and hopefully nurse it along until you get some extra crush washers (hint, hint) - only using the Permatex Gey as a last resort and it may not even adhere properly to the oily surface.


Really? mine are all original, in fact on all my cars I have ever had including my family members whose cars I work on has ever had those aluminum "crush" washer leak, ever.

I did replace my ATF aluminum "crush" washer once on a previous car on advice of the OEMalldayfanboy's forums, wasted my 2 dollars, I remember later I felt annoyed with my self from listening to them and replacing a perfect good washer.

How do you guys ruin them? Overpowering that bad boy?

 

[Doog]

Put a piece of clean cardboard under the drain plug overnight. If it is not leaking...it is not leaking. Change it next time. If it is leaking change it.

 

[KitaCam]

It must be embarrassing to admit to reusing a one-time 50¢ part multiple times only to learn too late it's been used one too many times....lesson learned.

 

[AKhan87]

"I'd recheck the transmission drain plug for tightness"

This is what I would do, if it doesn't work open the plug then replace it with a new plug w/ washer, you will have an extra plug, which should work on any Toyotas I think, and it is cheaper then replacing that Amsoil fluid that will come out.

When I replaced my brother's slightly stripped bolt, I did it quick enough to only loose 10oz of fluid during the swap.

 

[Dick in Falls Church]

Agree with Donald. pull the plug, stick finger/thumb in hole, replace washer (or have another plug with washer ready to go), reinstall plug. Have done this (because the washer got left off) and only lost an ounce or two of oil.

 

[Drew99GT]

I still have all the originals on my 94 Corolla! I've found the key to reusing them is, they have to be put on the plug correctly. After multiple uses, they will wear into the plug and create witness marks. After that, if you put in on backwards, those deformations on the washer will not seal flush against the mating surface and create leaks. Perhaps that is what the OP did?

If it's not literally dripping, I wouldn't even loose a nights sleep over it. Deal with it next time you change the fluid. Or do Trav's idea but make sure you wipe all the dirt off the plug area if you decide to save the fluid.

 

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: KitaCam
It must be embarrassing to admit to reusing a one-time 50¢ part multiple times only to learn too late it's been used one too many times....lesson learned.


+1 I buy the Toyota drain washers in bags of 100. Same goes for the Denso TPMS service kits. You can get them on Rock Auto for $3.

 

[901Memphis]

I like the fel pro reusable rubber washer.

 

[HTSS_TR]

I used to change oil, ATF in my previous cars normal way (drain and fill) using aluminum washer(s) I bought from ACE hardware without problem.

Since around 2003-2004 I used Mityvac most of the time so that I didn't have to remove drain plug(s) for oil and ATF changes. No chance with cross thread and no need for new washer(s).

Changing ATF with Mityvac is so easy and fast, no need to raise the car (and no need to lower the car after finish), all works can be done in less than 10 minutes and no mess either.

With a fluid extractor you can do many things such as changing oil and ATF and it can be used to bleed the brake too, so the initial cost of $80-90 pays for itself in less than 10-15 uses.

 

[hypervish]

I won't lie, the drain plug gaskets on my RX300 are all original... 14 years later they are are still dry and don't leak. I'm surprised to see so many of you who replace them.

Well actually, I lied. The fill plug gasket on the rear differential was replaced last year. LOL

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: Doog
Put a piece of clean cardboard under the drain plug overnight. If it is not leaking...it is not leaking. Change it next time. If it is leaking change it.


Here it is- the best answer.

 

[pbm]

If you don't want to drain or lose any of your Amsoil ATF you could back out the drain plug enough to wrap some Teflon tape around the base and then retighten.....it should keep it from leaking until your next D&R is due when you can change the crush washer...