Copper oil drain plug washers for some Asian vehicles

[NormanBuntz]

I get tired of spending too much time to remove some Toyota, Nissan and Subaru drain plug washers. The Nissan/Subaru ones truly crush and you have to use a thin flat screwdriver to remove them from the drain plug. On the Toyota washers, both the new coated aluminum ones and the old fabric ones, I find myself having to scrape them off the oil pan when some of them seem to get fused to the pan. For both M12 applications, I've bought some flat copper washers (COC China) on Amazon for about 35 cents each that are 12 mm ID by 20 mm OD by 1 mm thick and I'm hoping they make oil changes a bit easier and quicker. Here's the link:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7L56RMK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

[dumkid]

I use these on every car, exept the ones with a o ring on the drain plug

 

[NormanBuntz]

I tried to find copper ones that were 1.5 mm thick but couldn't find any.

 

[panthermike]

I ran into that this past weekend with my brothers '19 Titan. They work fine but I don't imagine him changing it often so I found a steel piece I had that should last a while.

 

[SHOZ]

I use copper for the manual transmissions but the oil pan gets a Dorman plastic one.

 

[eljefino]

I use aluminum ones I get by the 50 or 100 from ebay from a few bucks. They have a nice feel when cinching down and stay dry. No problems with them staying where they shouldn't.

 

[D60]

I tried to find copper ones that were 1.5 mm thick but couldn't find any.

For brakes SUR&R is my source for 60 thou copper washers. That said, not sure if any banjo bolts are 12mm??

 

[D60]

I also appreciate this topic because people act like you have to use exactly what the OEM used, but if it's just a flat surface sealing against a flat surface, I don't see why other styles aren't acceptable.

The OP's problem is particularly annoying when under a Toyota on a creeper waiting for the trans to hit temp to pull the check plug. Then you get to wrangle out your pocket knife to pry the old crush washer off and fit a new one and hope you don't drop one. Inevitably it'll roll far away and by the time you find it the trans has exceeded the acceptable temp and you get to start over!! First world problems, but still annoying

Nissan uses their own design of a copper crush washer with two little "wings".....but as best I can tell at the end of the day it's just a crush washer.

 

[TheOilWizard]

Personal opinion, but I would prefer to reuse the Nissan crush washer before installing a generic and hoping it seals properly. If you go this route just keep a close out for leaks.

I never really had a hard time getting the crush washers off. I believe I found the Nissan OEM crush washers on eBay for under 30 cents each in a pack of 20.

 

[Wingo]

I bought Toyota sized coated crush washers off of temu for ridiculously cheap. Hasn't leaked a drop and never had anything stick, so far anyway.

 

[Pablo]

I bought a set of each, I replace like for like - even thought Al gets a bit sticky with steel plugs.

For engine oil, may not matter much, can use copper when there was Al originally.

These have saved my bacon for all sorts of things:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G5FP73B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BG3YMR8X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[JHZR2]

I got a bag of Honda aluminum ones when I bought filters in bulk, and they last multiple OCIs. I run gold plug SS drain plugs instead of OE (it adds a magnet). So no issues with Al.

My MB cars all get a Cu washer that comes with the filter.

 

[PF52]

I bought a bulk pack of aluminum ones for my Honda, but my WRX uses a different design and I get those as singles each time I buy a new filter.

 

[D60]

Personal opinion, but I would prefer to reuse the Nissan crush washer before installing a generic and hoping it seals properly. If you go this route just keep a close out for leaks.

I never really had a hard time getting the crush washers off. I believe I found the Nissan OEM crush washers on eBay for under 30 cents each in a pack of 20.

So what happens if you use a Toyota style crush washer? Do they wage war on one another like Ford vs Chevy?

I am legitimately curious, I mean are the seating surfaces machined differently, like one is flat and is concave? Or are they spec'ing different Ra tolerances in surface finish? Or something else I'm not considering?

 

[Pablo]

So what happens if you use a Toyota style crush washer? Do they wage war on one another like Ford vs Chevy?

I am legitimately curious, I mean are the seating surfaces machined differently, like one is flat and is concave? Or are they spec'ing different Ra tolerances in surface finish? Or something else I'm not considering?

IMHO if the size is the same the only other consideration (really) is material. Steel pan, steel bolt. Copper. Easy. Aluminum case, steel bolt? What material? Most use..........well some use Al and there is material migration and the bolt locks up pretty good. Not usually a problem for relatively short oil OCI. But a "lifetime" other fluid???

 

[dubber09]

Home Depot or Lowes would be cheaper? Also, to remove stuck washer - just loosen up drain plug by a turn or two and tap washer from side with a flat screwdriver to loosen it up, undo plug after.

 

[TheOilWizard]

So what happens if you use a Toyota style crush washer? Do they wage war on one another like Ford vs Chevy?

I am legitimately curious, I mean are the seating surfaces machined differently, like one is flat and is concave? Or are they spec'ing different Ra tolerances in surface finish? Or something else I'm not considering?

The Nissan OE washers are the crush style that form to the pan/drain plug. (picture below)

I don't know the answer to your questions, and that's why I would personally stick with the correct washer.

Maybe the flat washers are just fine? I haven't tested to find out.

 

[NormanBuntz]

Home Depot or Lowes would be cheaper? Also, to remove stuck washer - just loosen up drain plug by a turn or two and tap washer from side with a flat screwdriver to loosen it up, undo plug after.

Except that doesn't work with the older Toyota cork/fabric washers or its aluminum washers that have a gray or blue coating on each side. Maybe they're counterfeit, I don't know, but I've had to use a utility knife twice on a 2013 Highlander.

 

[barkingspider]

I have aftermarket SS magnet oil drain plugs on my Toyota and Chevy and I use copper washers (Amazon) with no problems sticking. I can remember the aluminum washer getting stuck only a couple of times on the Toyota but a simple tap removed it. I have a plastic washer on the trans drain bolt on the Chevy that works perfect and whatever washer that came w the aftermarket trans pan on the Toyota.

 

[RaymondP]

Usually install a new copper or aluminum washer if I have one to hand. If not, I flip it over and reinstall. 2016 BMW 328i has a new plastic drain plug with O ring that comes in the kit along with the oil filter. Hasn't failed me yet, though have to admit being very skeptical.