Both of your recommendations may suffice for a 20-yr old car where the drain plug will never be touched again, but neither of them restores the threads to their intended purpose.
I don't know if I would call them "repair options."
Stripped transmission drain plug
- Thread starter cptnsolo77
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I don't know if I would call them "repair options."
I just don't like to over-complicate my life more than I have to. If a teflon tape or an oversized plug stops the leak, how is that not a repair?
It's quick and easy.
But instead I should over-complicate the repair with a new pan, drain the ATF, deal with the mess, possible gasket quality issue and who knows what else on such an old car, just to have it done "properly" and perhaps impress some strangers on the internet?
Not likely and I'm pretty confident in my abilities and tool set to deal with the possible setbacks, OP doesn't sound like he has much experience and tools available to him.
Then, you and I define repair differently.
A one-time “fix” that stops the leak, but renders the plug unusable, is not a repair, it’s a hack job.
Not a fan of hack jobs. There are those who think a hack job is fine (like our favorite car-flipper) but a JB weld “fix” buggers up the pan. Which means that any future service requires a new pan. That’s expedient, but costs more time and effort in the long run.
It’s not about over-complicating, it’s about doing the job right.
A one-time “fix” that stops the leak, but renders the plug unusable, is not a repair, it’s a hack job.
Not a fan of hack jobs. There are those who think a hack job is fine (like our favorite car-flipper) but a JB weld “fix” buggers up the pan. Which means that any future service requires a new pan. That’s expedient, but costs more time and effort in the long run.
It’s not about over-complicating, it’s about doing the job right.
How exactly does an oversized plug or teflon tape make the plug unusable?
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A few choices here.
You'll need to guesstimate at length of threads and trim a Helicoil. Quality dykes work fine. Don't let it run wild on either side -- it'll never work properly
I'd leave the pan on and try to run an M12 tap in there. You have virtually nothing to lose as long as you don't hit the valve body. You can use a bottoming tap or don't be afraid to sand the point off a starter tap, and even the first one or two "psuedo-threads." It's common in the industry to modify a tap a bit to get the job done.
I might even just try M12x1.75 to avoid the need to drill......this was used on engine pans, albeit with almost surely greater length of thread engagement.
I'd leave the pan on and try to run an M12 tap in there. You have virtually nothing to lose as long as you don't hit the valve body. You can use a bottoming tap or don't be afraid to sand the point off a starter tap, and even the first one or two "psuedo-threads." It's common in the industry to modify a tap a bit to get the job done.
I might even just try M12x1.75 to avoid the need to drill......this was used on engine pans, albeit with almost surely greater length of thread engagement.
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I saw these earlier, but they are M12 thread not M10. I really wish it was !!!! Thanks !
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Avoid the need to drill ??? Just ratchet that sucker on ? Im all for whatever will stop the leak with the minimum amount of work. It has 300K plus miles and this will be THE last drain and fill I will do. Next one will be at 360K I dont think I will have the car for THAT much longer. I bought it at 38K
Tap at M12x1.75Avoid the need to drill ??? Just ratchet that sucker on ? Im all for whatever will stop the leak with the minimum amount of work. It has 300K plus miles and this will be THE last drain and fill I will do. Next one will be at 360K I dont think I will have the car for THAT much longer. I bought it at 38K
I can't say exactly what I would do without being there in person, and I can't guarantee success, but it's not ludicrous to try. Worst case you replace the pan ANYWAY
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Thanks for ALLLL of the replies guys its VERY appreciated !!! Whats bugging me is that the plug is pretty darn snug and it felt firm all the way until it bottomed out, indicating that I have a good bite on the threads ? I didnt cross thread it because it flat against the pan. I would have thought that it wouldnt have leaked at all being as tight as it is. Thats why im afraid of tightening in down more and risk stripping the pan threads. Could it be possible the crush washer failed or defective ? Didnt seat correctly ? The inside diameter of the crush washer was bigger than the thread bolt size and it wiggled a bit. Maybe not centered ? I had to move it around to center it before it mated with the pan. I have a oil drain plug washer with the blue felt....I might try ditching the crush waster and try that too. Thoughts ???
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Do the teflon tape hack job man. It will ruffle some feathers here 
Drill/taps are a thing. I'll cost more to repair the buggered up pan than to just replace it.
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I regularly use 10-32 combo drill taps for a particular product I make. It allows me to drill, flip to the back gear and power tap.
That said, in a hand drill they are NOT as awesome as one might think. First, if tapping a blind hole the length of the drill is a significant problem (hello Mr Valve Body). Plus the drill portion is short, so you can't always drill all the way through thicker pieces. Finally, if you FLY into the tap at "drill" speed, you're likely to find how easily taps shatter or strip threads
That said, in a hand drill they are NOT as awesome as one might think. First, if tapping a blind hole the length of the drill is a significant problem (hello Mr Valve Body). Plus the drill portion is short, so you can't always drill all the way through thicker pieces. Finally, if you FLY into the tap at "drill" speed, you're likely to find how easily taps shatter or strip threads
This would be my first choice, in that same order.
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Im up for whatever stops the dripDo the teflon tape hack job man. It will ruffle some feathers here
Im tired of looking at the cardboard and pan under my car in the driveway.I thought you had M10 already and the M10 is stripped out.
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Yes. The M10 is stripped.
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