2012 WRX- Redline 5w-30 vs Mobil 0w-40

[Rand]

Those cars really should have a 5w40 or 0w40 if you drive it hard for more than a couple mins.

ie longer than blowing 0-85 on the highway ramp.


very high HP/L ratio with a turbo = alot of heat going into the oil.

The oil needs to maintain the needed viscosity minimum even when heated in the turbo.

Its basically a enthusiast race car no reason to put Toyota yaris oil in it.. unless you drive it like one.

 

[tig1]

Just because some bodies roomate says he doesn't like M1 oils, would you really make a decision based on that? If your engine calls for a 30wt oil then I would sugest M1 5-30. It has the Honda turbo HTO-06 high temp low deposite spes as well as the Dexos GM spec.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Rand

Its basically a enthusiast race car no reason to put Toyota yaris oil in it.. unless you drive it like one.

No one is suggesting running the spec' oil for a Yaris (TGMO 0W-20)
so why are you?

It is very difficult on the street to generate high oil temp's since one cannot maintain full boost for more than a few seconds at a stretch and that's all it takes before you're doing over 100 mph. So typical aggressive driving on the street entails a WOT spurt now and then but then your out of it. As a result your oil temp's don't have a chance to get very high.
On the track is a whole different story since you're keeping the engine on the boil for most of the time; hence the high oil temp's that warrant an heavier oil.

 

[dvancleve]

From what I have read, PU 5w30 is a fine choice for a Subie turbo that isn't run really hard. I have enough of it for a couple oil changes. The issue with it for me is cost and availability. I will most likely be buying M1 0w40 when there aren't any killer deals on something similar... Doug

 

[bvl]

Originally Posted By: Bandito440
My friends in the STI cult seem to hate Mobil 1 as a rule. I never asked why. I just continued to buy M1 15w-50 for my bike and love it.

I'd run Rotella T6 in your car. There are many collective miles and UOAs on the Subaru forums showing it to be a quality performer.

If I had to pick between the two you listed, it would depend on driving conditions. M1 is easier to get and less than half the cost of Red Line. If you're racing or beating on the car and the extra expense is worth it to you, I'd get Red Line 0w-40.


Operative word being cult.

Sure a higher tuned 2.5 is hard on just about any oil but plenty of good results from '[censored]' old M1 out there. Just goes to show there are plenty of good products to choose from.

My 2.0 Stage 2 WRX has 120K on it with nothing but Mobil 1 (and some UOAs from mid 2000's as well that showed good numbers: will have to get them from Blackstone on my next sample).

I'm now running M1 0-40 in the WRX which simplifies my oil storage in the garage with her neighbor (zee german car which works well with the M1).

- b

 

[buster]

What do you think about RL's poor results in the industry standard TEOST test? Is that a valid concern considering the WRX is a turbo?

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: buster
What do you think about RL's poor results in the industry standard TEOST test? Is that a valid concern considering the WRX is a turbo?

I don't think it is a valid concern (RL says it isn't),besides for other reasons no body is recommending running RL at all so far in this thread.
To date the PU 5W-30 the OP is currently using appears to be a good choice and I think he should stick with it.

 

[buster]

Quote:
besides for other reasons no body is recommending running RL at all so far in this thread.


Quote:
2012 WRX- Redline 5w-30 vs Mobil 0w-40


Quote:
Which of these two would you go with for a turbo vehicle driven pretty hard (no track though) in constant 100+ degree days in california?


Quote:
RL says it isn't


Yeah well companies say a lot of things. I think it's a valid question.

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: Josh8519
Why is that? I thought the hate was for Mobil 1 5w-30, not the 0w-40


Any time you mention M1 they get mad.

Ignorance.

Josh, are you protuned or will you be getting one? As it is, these cars run rich and an OTS Cobb AP reflash like I run will make it run even richer. Protuned WRX's usually have the best uoa's.

There is a reason why Mobil1 recommended 0W-40 for my application. More fuel dilution = thinner oil. Get a Subaru Mastercard and use the rewards to purchase Red Line from Annapolis or Fred Beans Subaru.

Originally Posted By: Rand
Those cars really should have a 5w40 or 0w40 if you drive it hard for more than a couple mins.

ie longer than blowing 0-85 on the highway ramp.


very high HP/L ratio with a turbo = alot of heat going into the oil.

The oil needs to maintain the needed viscosity minimum even when heated in the turbo.

Its basically a enthusiast race car no reason to put Toyota yaris oil in it.. unless you drive it like one.

-Dennis

 

[Josh8519]

I'm not protuned. I have an etune from torqued performance (stage 1, only mod).

I'm thinking about just sticking with the PU.

 

[tommygunn]

How about GC? A thick 30

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: Josh8519
I'm not protuned. I have an etune from torqued performance (stage 1, only mod).

I'm thinking about just sticking with the PU.

The Torqued Performance map probably isn't quite as rich as an OTS tune. I found a couple of uoa's and one shows a trace of fuel.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2412037

http://www.wrxforums.com/forums/66-3g-wr...are-thread.html

Of course, trying to find a few consecutive uoa's on modfied WRX's with GF-5 oils are about as rare as unicorn sightings. I probably wouldn't go beyond 3,750 miles without a few good uoa's with TBN.

-Dennis

 

[Josh8519]

Wow that's a nice UOA from that motul x clean stuff. Maybe I should try that?

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: Josh8519
Wow that's a nice UOA from that motul x clean stuff. Maybe I should try that?

It's a good oil. Nice levels of zinc but lower phosphorus levels to meet mid SAPS. It's also a thick 30 grade and meets several Euro specs.

I see the TP tune has a target boost of 18 psi's. How high is stock boost for your MY? 12-14? Are you staying with the factory air filter? Some aftermarket filters are a gamble when it comes to filtering ability, IMO.

-Dennis

 

[Thermo1223]

Just to add some insight, I've used Mobil 1 0w30 in both Foresters now both being Cobb OTS tuned. I never did submit to the T6 rule. It made the engine feel like crud kinda the way the Mobil 1 0w40 does now, dunno why it is not the same. I think I will be going back to 30 territory, either 0w30 AFE or PU 5w30. Especially since I removed the tune now.

The UOA I got with Synpower 5w30 SN really showed how rich the OTS maps run. It was in winter but there was little idling and mostly highway driving.

I am also thinking about getting it protuned just to stop the rich mix...gonna inquire with a local Subie speed shop.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-s6XZBHDMmBbVBxWTgxME00OFk/edit?usp=sharing

Top UOA is AFE 0w30 on the 2005 XT
Bot UOA is 5w30 Synpower on the current 2009

 

[Josh8519]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Originally Posted By: Josh8519
Wow that's a nice UOA from that motul x clean stuff. Maybe I should try that?

It's a good oil. Nice levels of zinc but lower phosphorus levels to meet mid SAPS. It's also a thick 30 grade and meets several Euro specs.

I see the TP tune has a target boost of 18 psi's. How high is stock boost for your MY? 12-14? Are you staying with the factory air filter? Some aftermarket filters are a gamble when it comes to filtering ability, IMO.

-Dennis


TP tune is regarded as one of the best etunes you can get (if not the best). The tuner, Eric, makes several adjustments for YOUR car if needed to make sure everything is safe and running great. I've have zero knock in all my datalogs, whereas I was getting tons of knock with the terrible stock tune. Sorry, I just love this tune so I had to brag about it.

Yes, target boost is 18 and stock boost is around 15. I have an AEM dryflow filter for my stock airbox which I recently switched to, so my next UOA will be with that filter. Before, I was just using napa gold filters.

 

[Josh8519]

Not that is has anything to do with oil, but here is a datalog with my TP tune

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApBwb2H_uGDidGtRZUZ4dWFpVVNvZElBSlB0aXlHdnc#gid=0

 

[05foresterXT]

It depends on how long you stay at WOT, plain and simple. If you want to hold it there for over 15 seconds, then any resource conserving 5w30 is too thin to hold up to that kind of abuse. For most people, in most driving situations, 5w30 is fine. I have been running 10w40 in my modded Forester, because my tuner told me that at the level of power I'm running, 5w30 doesn't provide adequate lubrication. I did some very serious damage in my last motor running Mobil 1 5w30, and I was running a Cobb stage 1 tune at the time. It did manage to hold on for a good 2 years after the incident, but it consumed any kind of oil thrown at it. When your motor goes like that, you'll know it pretty quickly. Mine went from little to no oil consumption to eating a quart every 700 miles.

 

[Josh8519]

I don't think I would ever hold wot for 15 seconds especially on public roads. When I do beat on it, it's usually quick 2nd or 3rd gear wot pulls with a couple minutes between each one, and that happens quite a bit on 100+ degree days.

Just checked my oil level today after 3200 miles and it's still completely full. I'll be sending in a UOA and changing my oil tomorrow, so I'll either use Mobil 1 0w-40 or PU 5W-30. Still not sure if I should consider the 5w-30 good enough protection.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: 05foresterXT
It depends on how long you stay at WOT, plain and simple. If you want to hold it there for over 15 seconds, then any resource conserving 5w30 is too thin to hold up to that kind of abuse.

Again that simply isn't true.
15 seconds at WOT is not going to raise your oil temp's much; besides even maintaining WOT for that long is hard to do in most situations on the street.

If you don't track your car use the spec' oil grade. If you do track your car or are lucky enough the live in a remote are where your can use a lot of WOT, install an oil pressure, oil temp' gauge. Then you can precisely determine whether you need to run a heavier oil and by how much. Even then, with oil gauges since you're monitoring the situation, and know that high oil temp's is a direct result of how long you keep your foot in it, you'll find that running a heavier oil is still unnecessary on the street, since simply lifting drops the oil temp's back to normal pretty fast.

IMO running a heavier than spec' oil because someone says you should who isn't even familiar themselves with the actual OP/OT characteristics of your car and the way you drive, because they heard that it's the thing to do, is not the smartest way to make an informed decision on the matter.