2012 WRX- Redline 5w-30 vs Mobil 0w-40

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: 05foresterXT

Considering the dubious 20w40 & 20w50 I have yet to respect anything I read in car manuals regarding oil viscosity. I can only respect the required viscosity to run which in this case is 5w30.

Granted the Synpower SN came in at 9.4 which is the bleeding edge for a 30 but the AFE 0w30 with it's superior basestocks did much better at 10.4 after hard use. Yet this was the oil I was told would be my downfall...in flames.

I should add that while running a 0w40 isn't required even modified it sure as heck can't hurt but if you can't find a 0w40 in a crisis moment good 5w30(or 0w30) synthetic isn't going break rods & shatter ringlands either.

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Originally Posted By: 05foresterXT

Considering the dubious 20w40 & 20w50 I have yet to respect anything I read in car manuals regarding oil viscosity. I can only respect the required viscosity to run which in this case is 5w30.

Granted the Synpower SN came in at 9.4 which is the bleeding edge for a 30 but the AFE 0w30 with it's superior basestocks did much better at 10.4 after hard use. Yet this was the oil I was told would be my downfall...in flames.

I should add that while running a 0w40 isn't required even modified it sure as heck can't hurt but if you can't find a 0w40 in a crisis moment good 5w30(or 0w30) synthetic isn't going break rods & shatter ringlands either.

It's like I was saying. Consecutive uoa's on RC oils, especially in modified turbos, are as rare as unicorns. Your '05 probably blowed up by now.

Then again, even uoa's that show a low wear trend do not mean that you can't or won't have a problem.

-Dennis

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie

It's like I was saying. Consecutive uoa's on RC oils, especially in modified turbos, are as rare as unicorns. Your '05 probably blowed up by now.

Then again, even uoa's that show a low wear trend do not mean that you can't or won't have a problem.

-Dennis


It may have! I always felt like emailing the guy and asking but that might infer in should have if it didn't

Exactly which is why I never understood everyone getting all sore about a little more iron in Mobil 1 UOAs. Kinda sorry I didn't get a UOA of the recent AFE run but time & weather was against me. I will of the 0w40 though!

Thinking of buying Lubrimoly for the TDI and a jug of 0w40 for the Forester as well.

 

[Josh8519]

Just got done with the oil change. First thing I noticed is how much more quiet my engine is. Hopefully this is a good thing.

What's the difference between 5w and 0w?

 

[Thermo1223]

In temperate weather minimal, winter is more there it counts. It sure doesn't hurt though!

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Josh8519

What's the difference between 5w and 0w?

In your climate there is no difference, it's the 2nd number of the SAE grade that matters and the oil's VI.

 

[05foresterXT]

Originally Posted By: Josh8519
Just got done with the oil change. First thing I noticed is how much more quiet my engine is. Hopefully this is a good thing.

What's the difference between 5w and 0w?


5.









... Sorry I couldn't help myself. It isn't much. 0w will be thinner at very cold temps, which is a good thing.

 

[Josh8519]

Loving how quiet my engine is with this oil. Now I just gotta keep checking the level to make sure my car doesn't eat this oil. Apparently that's an issue with Mobil 1 and subarus

 

[DrDusty86]

Overkill,
Manufacture testing? I guess that is why Chrysler is going to PU huuhh? It must be a better oil. or was it financial, M1 is losing oe endorsement contracts. BOUT time because their ARE better oil and manufactures are catching on.
LONG LIVE PU!

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
You fear monger!

He he! Actually, that oil viscosity chart is straight out of the 1970s.

Technically, an SM monograde 40 is allowed, but 0w-40 doesn't appear. 5w-40 is allowed, too. Okay.

@DrDusty86: Not to be a conspiracy theorist or derail the thread, but I think there's a little more to M1 not having the Chrysler certification than the testing period. Plenty of much smaller fish have the certification. One or more people at either or both companies are probably mad at each other over money or contract switching or a golf game or something and they have simply decided not to play nice with each other any longer.

 

[Josh8519]

I would have gotten PU today but couldn't find it anywhere. I'm running M1 0w-40 and will do a UOA after.

 

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Originally Posted By: Josh8519
Wow that's a nice UOA from that motul x clean stuff. Maybe I should try that?

It's a good oil. Nice levels of zinc but lower phosphorus levels to meet mid SAPS. It's also a thick 30 grade and meets several Euro specs.

I see the TP tune has a target boost of 18 psi's. How high is stock boost for your MY? 12-14? Are you staying with the factory air filter? Some aftermarket filters are a gamble when it comes to filtering ability, IMO.

-Dennis




This is straight from the 2013 WRX manual, which should apply for 2011+ WRX

X-CLEAN catches my eye but it's not "resource conserving" do you think subaru will complain about it?

 

[bluesubie]

Yes, the thicker viscosities were removed from the owner's manuals during the 2011 Model Year. Subaru actually mailed out addendums to purchasers of early 2011 cars.

thescreensavers - As to whether or not SoA or your dealer would have a problem with non Energy or Resource Conserving oil. Who knows? They still say silly things like 5W-40 conventional being allowed for replenishment when no such oil exists. The 2012 Outback manual recommends sticking with synthetic if you switch to it and that's straight out of the 1970's (to borrow a phrase from Garak). Garak, my 2003 manual lists 10W-40 and not 5W-40 so there were some revisions. The 2012 turbo manuals only state that 5W-30 or 5W-40 can be used for replenishment, so there were even revisions since last MY.

They don't say "5W-30 GF-4 or GF5 is required". They say that "5W-30 is required for optimum engine performance and protection".

I would think most oil purchase receipts wouldn't even go into those specific details anyway.

The BRZ manual is less confusing so I believe it was written by Toyota. 0W-20 is recommended and thicker viscosities can be used in certain conditions, but no examples of the viscosities or conditions are listed.

-Dennis

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Garak, my 2003 manual lists 10W-40 and not 5W-40 so there were some revisions. The 2012 turbo manuals only state that 5W-30 or 5W-40 can be used for replenishment, so there were even revisions since last MY.

I don't know if a 10w-40 conventional would be a great idea in a really high heat, high performance application in the first place. My memory of 1970s 10w-40s gives me a bias, mind you.

Their talk of synthetic 5w-30 only is kind of odd, though. They'd be better off coming up with their own specification, rather than relying on the word "synthetic" since that's a little fuzzy. Depending on one's definition of the word, I'd love to see a 5w-30 SN/GF-5 that's a true synthetic.

 

[Josh8519]

FYI, I don't support lying to your dealer about going against warranty requirements or anything, but the walmart receipt just says "mobil oil" for the 0w-40.

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: Garak

Depending on one's definition of the word, I'd love to see a 5w-30 SN/GF-5 that's a true synthetic.

Another good point!

Originally Posted By: Josh8519
FYI, I don't support lying to your dealer about going against warranty requirements or anything, but the walmart receipt just says "mobil oil" for the 0w-40.

 

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
I would think most oil purchase receipts wouldn't even go into those specific details anyway.


Well If I buy Motul it will most likely say exactly what it is due to buying it online or at a specialty shop.

Its about $60 + tax for 5 quarts vs 30ish for PU. PU is seeming like a good candidate but I don't like how it shears like SOA oil.

So far I have been on SOA oil First change being 3k, and been following a 3750 change interval. I am about to get my 4th oil change(iirc last free one) next week (@15k) and then for July 4th I am driving up to Tail of the Dragons for the weekend.I would make that a short OCI due to the mountain driving I will be doing which may or may not be spirited driving

I would start changing my own oil and would like to have Motul 8100 which I would run for 5k miles and then get a UOA done to see where I am at. I feel like Motul is a better fit for me being more shear stable and a thicker 30wt which these engines like thicker weight oil(40wt)and being a 5W30.

Now, I could buy M1 0W/40 from Wally world as stated and it would just show M1 Oil on the receipt, and it seems M1 0W40 shows good wear #s.. but something wouldn't sit right with me running 40Wt oil if the manual asks for 30wt. The reason I haven't done any engine mods is to retain engine warranty so it would be silly to run something that might void my engine warranty.

 

[05foresterXT]

Running 0w40 cannot void your warranty when the manual even says you can run up to 10w50 down to -4 degrees F.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Garak

Their talk of synthetic 5w-30 only is kind of odd, though. They'd be better off coming up with their own specification, rather than relying on the word "synthetic" since that's a little fuzzy. Depending on one's definition of the word, I'd love to see a 5w-30 SN/GF-5 that's a true synthetic.

Subaru does have their own 5W-30 brand made by Idemitsu and it does meet the HTO-06 turbo spec'.
BTW all 5W-30 oils meeting HTO-06 are "just" GP III based oils as is M1 SN 0W-40. Not too many of use are really concerned about it.

 

[05foresterXT]

Sorry, I just read the last couple pages, and saw about how Subaru changed the wording in the manual. If you are worried about the warranty, then I'd just run the Subaru 5w30, and drive it as hard as possible, and try to break it while it's under warranty.