Harbor Freight torque wrench Fail.

[yonyon]

As much as those torque wrenches are uncomfortable and just plain unpleasant to work with, they hold their calibration quite well. If you've had it checked (and you should always have any torque wrench checked before the first use) once you can reasonably expect it to hold it's calibration for many years.

If that's got the valve covers I'm thinking of the old gaskets were baked in there but good weren't they? As I recall it can be a good two hours or so with the covers off just to remove all of the old gasket material. Maybe some got stuck in there or perhaps you bent the cover a little while digging the gasket out?

Either way, that torque spec is for clean dry bolts going into clean dry holes. If they're a little oily you're going to have a problem. I'd ignore the spec and tighten them very snug with a palm ratchet, let the engine warm up, then re-tighten them to very snug still with a palm ratchet. Add maybe 30 degrees beyond that but not too much more.

 

[Astro14]

Doesn't sound like the torque wrench failed...there was a failure, to be sure, but I don't think it was the tool...

 

[SIXSPEED]

The HF 1/4" TW I have has a range of 20 to 200 lb-in. Typically these are only good for spec tolerance from say 20% to 100% full-scale. Since 200 lb-in is full scale, 20% of that is 40 lb-ft. So for spec torque tolerance, it's only good from 40 to 200 lb-ft. These don't make a big click when it reaches set torque, you only feel a small let-off when it gets there.

 

[JHZR2]

Im sure it is possible for the thing to not click, or not give a real strong amount of feel when it does. But Id be curious to see how much overtight you set it.

I wonder if you took it off with the wrench set at ever higher torque values, if you could get a rough estimate. Granted it isnt a dynamic torque measurement...

I agree it seems something else, even if user error was the case.

Sorry to hear about this.

I will say that my snap-on has a nice feel even at the low in-lb range.

 

[vtecboy]

The funny part is that i also replaced the front valve cover gasket in this car...At that time, i did NOT had this torque wrench,so i thigthed the bolts with my hand,i snugged them,almost no torque at all, and that front valve cover is not leaking. This time i got a torque wrench because i know how hard is to get to the dammn rear valve cover. So i wanted to do the job right the first time...How wrong i was...

pictures of the front valve cover (1 week ago).

Also heres another picture of the inside of my engine using mobil 1 high mileage with 1500 miles OCI

 

[Rock_Hudstone]

Originally Posted By: The Critic

I'm guessing that it overtightened and caused the gasket to squeeze out, thus causing the leak.

The 35in lbs. spec is no doubt for clean and dry bolts/threads. The slightest oil or sealant contaminating the bolt/threads and applied torque goes way up.

I've learned from experience not to trust torque wrenches for gasketed applications as they often lead to overtorqued bolts and deformed gaskets. I'll use a torque wrench only to get in the ballpark then add the last few lbs. carefully by hand. Better to be under torqued in these situations.

Also, check that the gasket didn't slip out of position during the install.

Tip: For working under the hood on low slung vehicles use a floor jack or ramps to raise the vehicle to a comfortable position. Otherwise, you'll be walking around hunched over for a week to ten days.

 

[tom slick]

here is some light reading on the subject.

http://www.robins.af.mil/shared/media/document/afd-091006-042.pdf

I also prefer not to use a torque wrench on gasketed joints.

 

[Rock_Hudstone]

Originally Posted By: vtecboy
Hello,

Do you guys think the valve cover gasket that i just installed is damaged?.... I don't have money to spend money on a new gasket again.

If the gasket is crushed beyond reuse bring it back where you purchased it, tell them it leaked, (which it did) and ask for a replacement. The big chain stores, Advance Auto etc. will usually give an exchange no problem.

Mom and Pop auto parts and dealers will fight with you..

Also, you may want to lightly coat both sides of the gasket with Permatex Ultra Black RTV sealant for some added insurance. Go easy on the torque and follow any tightening sequences.

 

[Johnny248]

I have a couple of HF torque wrenches, and I test them all the time with our calibrator at work. Guess what. They are just as accurate as the expensive ones I test also..

 

[ajchien]

35 in-lbs. that's kinda like using a nutdriver torque for me. A stubby ratchet would over tighten that.

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: vtecboy
Also heres another picture of the inside of my engine using mobil 1 high mileage with 1500 miles OCI

 

[cptbarkey]

i have had zero issues abusing the [censored] out of my HF torque wrenches, often used to remove lug nuts and the such. for 9.99 i dont care. havent picked up the 1/4 yet but will one of these days.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: Johnny248
I have a couple of HF torque wrenches, and I test them all the time with our calibrator at work. Guess what. They are just as accurate as the expensive ones I test also..
+1

 

[spackard]

If it's really 35 lb-in torque, then this Neiko screwdriver should do the trick:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Pro-Grade-4-...que+screwdriver

or:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Dr-Long-Shan...=item3a66ccd691

Gives you an idea of how little torque is required, if it's a screwdriver.

 

[JHZR2]

Thats a smart little tool!

 

[Vikas]

I have that torque wrench. I just verified that it does click at 35 inch-lb but you really have to pull it very gently. To give you an idea of the pull needed, I then tried to apply the same torque using the 1/4 small ratchet. I had to hold it right on the head otherwise I was applying more torque than 35 lb-in!

I could even feel the click at the 20 lb-in but the whole room had to be very quiet and I had to move it extremely slowly to hear it.

Compare the sizes and weight of the wrench and ratchet in the picture. My 1/2" ratchet (NOT SHOWN) is smaller and lighter than that torque wrench! You have consciously treat that wrench as if it is smaller than the 1/4" ratchet shown here and treat it gingerly. If you start treating as it is 1/2" ratchet, you will no doubt have big trouble.

 

[dogwood1300]

Originally Posted By: stephen9666
-Which torque wrench did you get? Did you get one where 35 in-lbs is in its usable torque range?

-What makes you think it was overtightened?

There's no evidence that the torque wrench did anything wrong or isn't accurate. It could have a problem, but at this point there's no evidence.

The HF torque wrenches actually aren't too bad. The same wrench is sold under multiple brands. I have a 1/2" that I've used for a few years. It still checks out as pretty accurate. It's not as nice as my Armstrong or CDI torque wrenches, but it works fine.



The HF 1/2" torque wrench is pretty good, I've been using it for tire rotation (80 ft-lb).

The HF 3/8", I don't know if it's me or the wrench; seems that I cannot get the click,
so had to buy new bolt as tightening with the wrench ruined the bolt head.

The HF 1/4", well have it, but like putting the spark plug back in, I'd trust more the
old, tighten it, then 1/4 round method; so I haven't put it to real use.

Regards

Pinwu

 

[Vikas]

Here is an easy way to check if your 3/8 is working or not.

Get 1/2" and 3/8" socket which will work on your wheel nut (or one socket and one 1/2/->3/8 reducer). Loosen one nut and tighten it back to 40 ft-lb using your 1/2" torque wrench. Set your 3/8" torque wrench to 45 ft-lb and see if the nut now moves slightly with your 3/8" torque wrench. Set 3/8" to 60 ft-lb and tighten the bolt. Now set 1/2" to 65 ft-lb and use that to make sure the nut moves slightly. Put it back to 80 ft-lb and you are done. Now you have verified that your 3/8 works at least as good as 1/2" and can be relied upon (until you drop it

Use similar technique to verify 1/4" torque wrench. You are making sure that they are withing ballpark and more importantly you will get a feeling of how they click. Also you have to remember that the clicking is very different at low the end of the scale as compared to mid or high and is easy to miss.

I love talking about the torque wrenches; currently HF has all three on sale for $9.99

 

[JHZR2]

5 ft'lb wont always budge it. Ive noticed that even on a calibrated snap-on, that torquing it to 80, then setting the wrench to 85 and trying again doesnt always get movement.

Of course per a few threads I posted a few weeks back, I may be lug bolt-impaired...

 

[Vikas]

I have always been able to do this (i.e. make sure nuts turn) on
1) lug nuts
2) lawn-mower blade (which I do lot more often than lug nuts!)

But I have a fancy 999cents torque wrench and not a cheap $100 one like you have