Recommended oil for 1998 Chevrolet Suburban

[Voltmaster]

quick note:

Unless your engine is eating too much oil ( .5qt / 1500 -2000 miles) dont use high milage.

The high milage stuff swells up the seals and if you keep switcing back n forth could cause damage , I dont think high quality like mobil1 will do that, but better be safe than sorry.

As long as you change your oil and filter everytime during timely manner , it doesnt matter too much what you use.

Do a blackstone kit with your next oil change and keep it simple , if there is no issue , no need to buy expensive stuff
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
^ get castrol gtx and purolator or fram and test. dont use any fuel injector cleaner because it can give faulse readings.


i hear alot of negative comments with FRAM filters, personaly never had problem but i stay away because last thing i need is blown oil filter in middle of freeway

 

[Voltmaster]

Originally Posted By: Kuato
I was thinking 0w30 for the low winter temps. Everyone is saying 5w30 is good enough for -20F....is using a 0w overkill?


Oh, and let me be the first to say,

DrPinetar!!

Lots of great info here, and as you've seen, plenty of opinions!



Theoterticaly using mobil1 adnvace enconomy 0w gives better fuel economy... as long as it doesnt more than a buck or two can it hurt?

 

[skyship]

This engine is probably in good condition and is not subject to severe duty, so assuming that it needs to use a 5/30 and not a 5/40, I would just pick a major brand good conventional oil if you want to OCI every 5000 miles. Because of the condition of the engine and the easy life it has I would just use the manufacturers recommended oil long life filter and change it at the full interval, which might be 10K miles.
If you want to move up to a full synthetic the OCI could be increased to 10K miles, BUT I would do a single UOA with TBN (35 dollars from Blackstones) to confirm the long term filter and oil change intervals are good.
There is very little difference between the major brands and you often get what you pay for in quality terms. If you are a Castrol fan try GTX 5/30 for 5K changes assuming it meets the oil finder approval, or Edge 5/30 if you want to extend the OCI to 10K. You might also look into the recommendations for an 0/30 during winter, BUT they don't last as long as the 5/30 (Winder spread equals shorter OCI's)and may not be recommended. Check the Castrol, Mobil 1 or Liqui Moly oil finders for an idea on choices. Castrol US oil guide:

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/LubesSelector.do?categoryId=3240

Don't use a high mileage (HM) oil unless you are leaking or burning oil and can't fix it. They contain too much seal sweller or conditioner additives and you will have to continue using the oil or the leak will get worse, just use a good major brand oil and change it often enough to keep the engine clean, or look at increasing the hot viscosity to a 5/40 if possible.

Originally Posted By: DrPinetar
So standard 5W-30 oils are basically the same? I can just buy on price? That seems weird. I see that Thax recommended some of those higher mileage products - what is the difference in those? What about the filters - pay more / get more?

I'd like to stay with changing my oil every 5000 or so.

 

[skyship]

You only need use the often more expensive 0/30 in the Artic, Antartic or Northern Siberia. 5/30 is good down to around minus 35C. 0/30 or 0/40's don't last as long as the 5W's which is why many car manufacturers don't recommend them. The closer the spread of a multigrade the longer it lasts.
The lower W rating only gives a very small increase in fuel consumption when the engine is cold (0 to 5W), it is the hot rating that makes a difference on longer trips, so a 30 is better than a 40, assuming that it is a recommended upper rating and your engine is not used for towing in the desert or other severe hot service use.



Originally Posted By: Voltmaster
Originally Posted By: Kuato
I was thinking 0w30 for the low winter temps. Everyone is saying 5w30 is good enough for -20F....is using a 0w overkill?


Oh, and let me be the first to say,

DrPinetar!!

Lots of great info here, and as you've seen, plenty of opinions!



Theoterticaly using mobil1 adnvace enconomy 0w gives better fuel economy... as long as it doesnt more than a buck or two can it hurt?

 

[mechtech2]

5-30 is great.
For winter, a 0-30 would be better.

 

[DrPinetar]

Thanks all. It sounds like there is largely consensus, with the only lingering question being high mileage or no high mileage oil. A lot of you mentioned the Valvoline Max Life, so I am tempted to go with that. Will anyone say "Don't do it!"? Otherwise, I guess I will proceed. Thanks for the help!

 

[BillyTheKid]

I disagree with the claims of not to use HM oil if not needed because it can and will cause leaks down the road. I have used this in many vehicles over the years and switch back and forth and up and down with diff weights, makes, and synthetics vs conventional. I had used it several times in a VW I owned since new and still do, and the [censored] thing has not had one drop of top off oil in its life between changes, and it has approx 150k and is a 99 model.

I have the same truck as you and I said before I am happy with the MaxLife, but you can use anything that solid 5.7 you have there.

I am by no means saying I know it all or even much for that matter, but I have done my own testing on this subject and those are my beliefs and findings.

 

[DrPinetar]

Thanks for your elaboration. The MaxLife (which is apparently a high mileage oil?) will be my choice, and if it is exceedingly expensive - it sounds like any quality 5W-30 will do the trick.

 

[DrPinetar]

Is the NextGen Maxlife the same thing as the Valvoline MaxLife?

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: DrPinetar
Is the NextGen Maxlife the same thing as the Valvoline MaxLife?


The Maxlife is only about $2 more a jug than straight conventional alternatives, for that you get a synthetic blend and a beefier add pack.

The NextGen is identical in formula, but is made from 50% recycled base stocks, nothing to be scared of it should be the equal of the red bottle version.

 

[KevGuy]

Originally Posted By: Thax
Originally Posted By: KevGuy
Originally Posted By: DrPinetar
New guy here - thanks for your help. My 170K mile 1998 Chevy Suburban 5.7 liter runs great - no problems. My usage is 20 mile minimum highway trips - some trips a lot longer. Not too much stop and go city driving. I live in Montana - twenty below to one hundred above.

What oil and filter combination should I be using to keep my ride running great? Thanks!

10W-40 conventional
FRAM orange can

Is this a serious recommendation? A 40 weight for a vehicle that experiences -20F starts and a Fram OCOD. This is a new bitog member who I am going to assume is asking genuine questions regarding a subject that he/she is not familiar with as many members of this board are. KevGuy I have to disagree with you 100% on your answer to poster's question , there are much better oil/filter combo's for this engine and environment.


Since when are you the boss?

 

[Thax]

Originally Posted By: KevGuy
Originally Posted By: Thax
Originally Posted By: KevGuy
Originally Posted By: DrPinetar
New guy here - thanks for your help. My 170K mile 1998 Chevy Suburban 5.7 liter runs great - no problems. My usage is 20 mile minimum highway trips - some trips a lot longer. Not too much stop and go city driving. I live in Montana - twenty below to one hundred above.

What oil and filter combination should I be using to keep my ride running great? Thanks!

10W-40 conventional
FRAM orange can

Is this a serious recommendation? A 40 weight for a vehicle that experiences -20F starts and a Fram OCOD. This is a new bitog member who I am going to assume is asking genuine questions regarding a subject that he/she is not familiar with as many members of this board are. KevGuy I have to disagree with you 100% on your answer to poster's question , there are much better oil/filter combo's for this engine and environment.


Since when are you the boss?

Never said Im the boss . I just know a stupid post /recommendation when I see one. Recommending a 40 weight oil in a engine that specs a 30 weight with a junk filter is just plain dumb.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: Voltmaster

Theoterticaly using mobil1 adnvace enconomy 0w gives better fuel economy... as long as it doesnt more than a buck or two can it hurt?



In my Jeep 4.0 the answer is yes. Used M1 0w30 and had more than twice the iron of any other oil tested....no/low zddp and the 4.0 has flat tappets.

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: Voltmaster

Theoterticaly using mobil1 adnvace enconomy 0w gives better fuel economy... as long as it doesnt more than a buck or two can it hurt?



In my Jeep 4.0 the answer is yes. Used M1 0w30 and had more than twice the iron of any other oil tested....no/low zddp and the 4.0 has flat tappets.


That's more a product of the Mobil formulation than the lower ZDDP. You'll find scads of 4.0 UOA's with sky high iron using Mobil 1, just about every grade variation even the 0w40.

You'll also find a bunch of 4.0 UOA's with low wear numbers (for a 4.0) using lower ZDDP oils, like Maxlife for example. But you'll also find some real good UOA's with higher ZDDP oils like Rotella.

For whatever reason, it's the Mobil 1.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: Voltmaster

Theoterticaly using mobil1 adnvace enconomy 0w gives better fuel economy... as long as it doesnt more than a buck or two can it hurt?



In my Jeep 4.0 the answer is yes. Used M1 0w30 and had more than twice the iron of any other oil tested....no/low zddp and the 4.0 has flat tappets.


That's more a product of the Mobil formulation than the lower ZDDP. You'll find scads of 4.0 UOA's with sky high iron using Mobil 1, just about every grade variation even the 0w40.

You'll also find a bunch of 4.0 UOA's with low wear numbers (for a 4.0) using lower ZDDP oils, like Maxlife for example. But you'll also find some real good UOA's with higher ZDDP oils like Rotella.

For whatever reason, it's the Mobil 1.



Thanks for the clarification; I don't pretend to be an oil expert

but the M1 does get our 4.0s to make.metal....

 

[JGW]

I've used nothing but PYB, M1, Plat, and PU 5w-30 in my Tahoe. No leaks or weird noise coming from the engine which happens to be running very nicely. Never used high mileage oils.

 

[Merkava_4]

Back in 1998, the factory recommended oil was probably 10W-30 with an ACDelco oil filter.

 

[demarpaint]

Any 5W30 oil should be fine, in that vehicle. If it doesn't leak of burn oil, I would consider a synthetic 0W30 especially during the winter.

 

[Boss302fan]

My friends 94 Sub went 300K until he recently traded it for new Toyota Tundra. LOL... He always used a 10W30 oil and did OCI's of 5K or six months. PYB would be a good choice or even Rotella... Winter go 5W30 and summer use a 10W30... Pureone oil filters.

 

[wtd]

I currently use 5W-30 PYB in my 98 chevy truck with the 5.7L that I bought new, with no problems. It has almost 123,000 miles on it. It does use a little oil but not much and has done this pretty much since new. 5W-30 is the recommended weight for this engine.

I generally use a PF52 AC-Delco filter but sometimes use the Wix or Purolater equivalant.

I know that the engine in my truck did not like Mobil 1 because it was noisier, used more oil and had worse oil analysis results results when I did use it.

Any name brand conventional oil will do fine.

Wayne