I just got a new Maxima with the 3.5 liter. I will be changing out the Factory fill when she hits 1K. That will probably be in a month. With the winter temps at zero and below I'm wanting a little beter start up protection for the new baby. Will the synthetic blend give me more start up protection than Dino and will it alllow the rings and everything to break in. Can the Blend give me the best of both worlds? Which blend would you guys suggest? Thanks
Will synthetic vlend allow for propper break in?
- Thread starter AFmedic
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Hi. I'd actually leave the FF in for a bit longer. Only a few hardcore guys here still dump the FF that early. Bascily, the filter catches EVERYTHING the engine might shed, plus the oil contains extra moly and other break-in specific additives. Moly helps the cyl cross-hatching wear flat rather than being rolled-over. That being said, you are in Anchorage, lol. To answer your question, once you change the FF, don't worry about the base oil. If the oil has plenty of moly, that would be a plus. I can't say which synth oil up there has moly, but Esso XD-3 is a great choice if you can get it. I'd totally skip the semiblend oil for full synth considering your location and coming into winter....the semiblend being sort of a half-measure.
Personallty, I use a bit of 2-cycle oil in the gas and did so for break-in, which could also be a nice addition in super-cold starts. imo, your break-in will be fine no matter what you do, just leave the FF in as long as possible and go strait to synth. Look in to a synth with moly, if you want to optimise.
Personallty, I use a bit of 2-cycle oil in the gas and did so for break-in, which could also be a nice addition in super-cold starts. imo, your break-in will be fine no matter what you do, just leave the FF in as long as possible and go strait to synth. Look in to a synth with moly, if you want to optimise.
Define "proper break in" please.
If you mean rings seating...sure...you can change to any SM rated oil conventional or synthetic at any time. I changed out my Factory Fill in my new Silverado 5.3L with 600 miles on the FF to Amsoil 10-30. At around 2500 miles I can feel the engine "perking up" at WOT for sure...so everything is sealing/seating just fine
Time for a roots blower on that thing for Christmas
If you mean rings seating...sure...you can change to any SM rated oil conventional or synthetic at any time. I changed out my Factory Fill in my new Silverado 5.3L with 600 miles on the FF to Amsoil 10-30. At around 2500 miles I can feel the engine "perking up" at WOT for sure...so everything is sealing/seating just fine
I have seen UOA on hte 3.5 from guys that went straight to synthetic early and 3.5 that did Dino for the first5-15 k and they showed less wear( better break in). It's also been talked about on the Maxima forums.I know it's all subjective and you will get different answers from different folks. I don think the Schaeffers is available here or the Esso HD. We have the standard china mart and Amsoil. I guess I could call around and see. I'm just concereend that the slippery effects of the synthetic wont allow for great break in. I'm also concerened about winter flow and start up. Thanks
Synthetic is no more or less "slippery" than conventional.
XD-3 has lots of Moly? My Mazda 6 has 3700 km (2300 miles) on it, and although the manual says go to 8000 km, I'd like to switch to syn in the next month, as I won't reach 8000 until January. It's too cold to lie on my driveway in January and I think, if my car could speak, it would say "synthetic please".
Please tell me more. I've only ever heard of people doing this with rotary engines. Should I be doing this with my Mazda 6. If so, what ratio of oil to gas?
Can you explain the reasono for this. It's discussed plenty on here about syntethic and slipperiness.
I changed out the FF in my Mazdaspeed 3 at roughly 1,100 miles and went with PP, which is a GRPIII synthetic. The car then went on a 2500 vacation mile trip from Houston, Tx. to Bisbee Az.
The car was driven on I 10 most of the way, at speeds ranging from inner city traffic to bursts up to 115 mph through west Texas (plenty of hills and descents all along the route). The speed limit is 80 mph most of the way so much of the cruising was done at that speed.
The car didn't use any oil during the whole trip.
I believe the car is nicely broken in. Cheers!
The car was driven on I 10 most of the way, at speeds ranging from inner city traffic to bursts up to 115 mph through west Texas (plenty of hills and descents all along the route). The speed limit is 80 mph most of the way so much of the cruising was done at that speed.
The car didn't use any oil during the whole trip.
I believe the car is nicely broken in. Cheers!
Sure....synthetics have a certain measured viscosity/HTHS and anti wear agents etc. just like conventional. Lubricity is the same between the two under normal operating conditions. Now if it is -40f I would agree synthetics would have an advantage over a conventional oil of the same grade/viscosity. But take out the extremes and conventionals are just as "slippery" as synthetics.
yes you can use dino,synthetic or synthetic blend and it will still break in just fine....In fact most of the break in should be done by 1000 miles....
Or Darth could say he uses MobilE Synthetic Vlend.
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