Used red bottle Maxlife in several vehicles and it's good oil. I would also consider Havoline High Mileage, I like it better than ML as it's $37 for 2- 6qt boxes delivered to your house, free shipping.
You should see the new Ford Explorers leaving the Ford plant in Chicago. I see them on my way home from work. They drive them to a rail yard rolling down 94 at 70-80 miles an hour weaving through traffic. Trust me, some are broken in really good.I don’t agree with you on this. These engines are not broken in at the factory.
This. I agree 100%change oil at 500 to 1,000 miles ,use a good full synthetic 5w-30,, name brands like Pennzoil Platinium,Vavoiline EP,Castrol Edge and good filter,like Fram ultra,wix XP at 5k intervals,, you should be fine for most driving conditions.
Hope He has better luck then I did.
This. I agree 100%
Change it at 500 miles and put in a quality full synthetic 5w30 and then change it every 5,000 miles. Done. My 5.0 has ran very well on Valvoline EP, Quaker State UP, and Pennzoil Platinum Ultra.
With today’s machining surface finishes, ring thicknesses, and modern internal coatings, 95% of break-in is done within 20 minutes of firing the engine for the first time. Sure, you may still see higher metals in UOAs for the first few OCIs, but the ring seal itself is nearly as good as it will ever get by the time your butt first hits the seat at the dealer.I think the advice he was giving is to use a synthetic blend vs full synthetic initially. Considering 90% of the break-in is finished by 500 miles. I do like the idea of dumping the factory fill at this point.
40+ years ago when I worked at a Detroit Diesel shop, we would do complete overhauls. The owner would pick up his truck, then a loaded trailer and proceed cross country. We would see him again after 400k to 500k miles later which was the life expectancy of those engines.With today’s machining surface finishes, ring thicknesses, and modern internal coatings, 95% of break-in is done within 20 minutes of firing the engine for the first time. Sure, you may still see higher metals in UOAs for the first few OCIs, but the ring seal itself is nearly as good as it will ever get by the time your butt first hits the seat at the dealer.
did you actually have any trouble with it? or just noises?Hopefully it doesn't develop the dreaded 5.0 "knock"
Mine started right after changing the oil.
That motor is a POS.
I traded in my truck at 30,000 miles and put 20w50 in it. The noise was barley noticable.
Just
The knocking noise.
Now IWE problems that another story.
Sounded just like this. Embarrassing.
Sounded just like this. Embarrassing.
How much time do you really suppose an engine really spends in filter bypass? And is there really more wear metal circulating during that time than other times? (Stuff too small for the filter to grab anyway.)Honestly, I don’t trust Ford or Toyota. I don’t believe the advice in the user manual has anything to do with engineering. I think it’s marketing. Toyota says you don’t need to change the oil till 10k. Can you imagine all that **** circulating the engine for 10k miles? When the bypass valve opens nothing is being filtered.
Sounded just like this. Embarrassing.
My buddies hemi and my neighbors f150 sounds like that too.