Which oil for a spotless engine?

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Originally Posted By: CT8
There is no reason the engine has to be spotless to last as long as it may.


The next time you go to the dentist, tell the doctor there's no reason for him to clean his dental instruments; you want them UNcleaned.
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Made my living working fleet and rental repair such foolishness is not necessary. Dental work and engines aren't the same .
 
Originally Posted By: Throt
Amsoil Signature Series changed every 3k with OCOD.


that would be such a waste of a great oil... why not just go pick up some PYB if you're going to do 3K changes....
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: CT8
There is no reason the engine has to be spotless to last as long as it may.


The next time you go to the dentist, tell the doctor there's no reason for him to clean his dental instruments; you want them UNcleaned.
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What does one have todo with the other

Absurd
 
Yes absolutely, 10W-30. I got a quart bottle of it sitting next to my computer right now. It's sloshing around very freely; almost too freely. Why people think they need anything thinner than 10W-30 is beyond me.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Yes absolutely, 10W-30. I got a quart bottle of it sitting next to my computer right now. It's sloshing around very freely; almost too freely. Why people think they need anything thinner than 10W-30 is beyond me.


It's a BITOG thing. If 10W is good, then 5W is better.
 
So you both are saying as a generalization, 5W- oils are thinner than 10W oils?

Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Yes absolutely, 10W-30. I got a quart bottle of it sitting next to my computer right now. It's sloshing around very freely; almost too freely. Why people think they need anything thinner than 10W-30 is beyond me.

It's a BITOG thing. If 10W is good, then 5W is better.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
But you're still using a watery ILSAC 30 grade.
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It says on the back of the bottle - "Meets or exceeds the performance specifications of: ILSAC GF-5, API SN, ACEA A5-02, GM 6094M and GM 4818M, Chrysler MS-6395."

I don't know what all that means, but it sounds impressive.
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I'm not a believer in synthetic at all, but QSUD seems to be a good oil. I think you'll be happy with it. Really should be using a non resource conserving 30 or 40 grade though.
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Yes absolutely, 10W-30. I got a quart bottle of it sitting next to my computer right now. It's sloshing around very freely; almost too freely. Why people think they need anything thinner than 10W-30 is beyond me.


If my car calls for 0W20 should I use 10W30 instead?
 
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
If my car calls for 0W20 should I use 10W30 instead?


For me it would depend on what the engine sounds like. If the engine was noisy on 0W-20, I'd change it to a 30 weight. If it's whisper quiet with 0W-20, I'd leave it in there.
 
Amsoil changed every 7500 miles would probably do the trick.. Darn expensive though. But really and seriously Mobil one "full" synthetic changed every 6k miles or Pennzoil Ultra if you can find it.. Like finding an alpine colored deer in the woods. Either one of those would most likely result in the spotless motor result. And 400k miles is a heck of a goal. Thought I was ambitious for wanting to get 300k out of my car.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It says on the back of the bottle - "Meets or exceeds the performance specifications of: ILSAC GF-5, API SN, ACEA A5-02, GM 6094M and GM 4818M, Chrysler MS-6395."

I don't know what all that means, but it sounds impressive.
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ILSAC includes watery 30 grades, Merk.
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What isn't impressive is them quoting a 12 year old ACEA spec, mind you.
 
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