What is the current consensus on Maxlife ATF's new formulation?

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Hey everyone :)

I have not been on too much, but I read that Valvoline changed their formula, and now is more similar to the Castrol CVT/Steptronic formula.

I am getting ready to either do my transmission service or give it to my indy for $680. I know I was going to do it last year, but I got busy. But now I have a wear code, and I am getting it done while I am home for a break.

I know Maxlife used to be the holy grail of transmission fluids here, so I am interested if it still is after the formulation change.

I am looking at either the Maxlife fluid or the licensed LV/VI Valvoline fliud. I could also get the Liqui Moly Top Tec 1800 from FCP, but I don't see the justified cost difference, but it is minimal.

Also, how safe is having the car running, while under it on 4 jack stands? This is what makes my parents apprehensive about me doing it, and the mess that it will make.

What are everyone's thoughts?


The car in question is a 2009 BMW with the GM6l45R transmission. It is shifting well, I would just like to keep it that way.
 
If it's a GM transmission, any Dexron VI will be fine :)

The new Maxlife is probably ok to use on that transmission. I'd be more apprehensive using it on a CVT.

As far as the jack stands go, just double check to make sure the car is secure before getting under it. Go around all four corners to confirm it's safe. Do you have ramps?

For most transmissions, you don't need the car running while underneath it. Just do the job cold, before the car is first used that day, like first thing in the morning or something. Measure how much comes out, and refill with the same amount.

Rock Auto actually has GM Dexron VI at a good price, depending on how much the shipping is to where you are.
 
As above - no reason to not use DexVI in a GM transmission designed around it. Plenty of affordable options for licensed fluid.

You can google the change procedure elsewhere (bimmerforum, etc); and cars on stands can be started - just lift and support it properly.
 
If it's a GM transmission, any Dexron VI will be fine :)

The new Maxlife is probably ok to use on that transmission. I'd be more apprehensive using it on a CVT.

As far as the jack stands go, just double check to make sure the car is secure before getting under it. Go around all four corners to confirm it's safe. Do you have ramps?

For most transmissions, you don't need the car running while underneath it. Just do the job cold, before the car is first used that day, like first thing in the morning or something. Measure how much comes out, and refill with the same amount.

Rock Auto actually has GM Dexron VI at a good price, depending on how much the shipping is to where you are.
Unfortunately, the transmission does need to be running, or it will dump out a bunch of fluid (ask me how I know).

I think shipping with RockAuto would be cost prohibitive, but I will check out parts on there just to be sure

The Valvoline VI is 6.34 at my local Walmart, but there is something nice about not having to open a bunch of quarts while trying to fill, so maybe I should dump the fluid into a clean container.

I don't have ramps, but how would you suggest I used them?

Thanks Slacktide (the OG Maxlife lover)
 
As above - no reason to not use DexVI in a GM transmission designed around it. Plenty of affordable options for licensed fluid.

You can google the change procedure elsewhere (bimmerforum, etc); and cars on stands can be started - just lift and support it properly.
Yeah, you're right: no reason not to use a licensed fluid :)

I've read every form post and video, so I think I'm prepared, but I always find a way to mess something up

Maybe I should write out each step in high detail.

Thank your for your time replying

- Dom
 
Yeah, you're right: no reason not to use a licensed fluid :)

I've read every form post and video, so I think I'm prepared, but I always find a way to mess something up

Maybe I should write out each step in high detail.

If you are new to working on projects, this is not a bad idea.** Alternatively, find a good DIY walk-through on a bmw forum (should be easy to find, or at least for the 6L45 somewhere else). Pull it up on an iPad or similar and have it nearby for reference.

** - In the old days, that is why a well-used Haynes manual looked like a finger print blotter. ;)
 
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Unfortunately, the transmission does need to be running, or it will dump out a bunch of fluid (ask me how I know).

I think shipping with RockAuto would be cost prohibitive, but I will check out parts on there just to be sure

The Valvoline VI is 6.34 at my local Walmart, but there is something nice about not having to open a bunch of quarts while trying to fill, so maybe I should dump the fluid into a clean container.

I don't have ramps, but how would you suggest I used them?

Thanks Slacktide (the OG Maxlife lover)

6.34 is a good price :)

Transmission fill tubes are usually thin and narrow, so the smaller spout of a quart bottle might work better with those long skinny funnels you'd use to fill a transmission. When Maxlife was cheaper by the gallon, it was easier to overlook that.

The Dexron VI seems to actually be cheaper than Maxlife, so it is also the better choice for that reason. One of the big reasons to use Maxlife was the awesome price. It used to be well under $20 a gallon before the prices on everything went up. The price increase isn't necessarily related to the new ATF/CVT combo formula.

With ramps, you would just drive the car on to them, so the front wheels would be on the ramps, and the rear wheels would remain on the ground.
 
6.34 is a good price :)

Transmission fill tubes are usually thin and narrow, so the smaller spout of a quart bottle might work better with those long skinny funnels you'd use to fill a transmission. When Maxlife was cheaper by the gallon, it was easier to overlook that.

The Dexron VI seems to actually be cheaper than Maxlife, so it is also the better choice for that reason. One of the big reasons to use Maxlife was the awesome price. It used to be well under $20 a gallon before the prices on everything went up. The price increase isn't necessarily related to the new ATF/CVT combo formula.

With ramps, you would just drive the car on to them, so the front wheels would be on the ramps, and the rear wheels would remain on the ground.
Makes sense, and yeah, I remember the good old days when it was cheaper :(

But with just ramps, it wouldn't be level?
 
If you are new to working on projects, this is not a bad idea.** Alternatively, find a good DIY walk-through on a bmw forum (should be easy to find, or at least for the 6L45 somewhere else). Pull it up on an iPad or similar and have it nearby for reference.

** - In the old days, that is why a well-used Haynes manual looked like a finger print blotter. ;)
Good idea.

I've done a fare share of DIYs, but I always forget something.

When I was doing control arms, it was late and I thought the torque spec was 175nm + 90 degrees, but there was not supposed to be an added 90 degrees. I eventually stopped and looked it up to be sure, and I realized I was mistaken. And boy, the 175Nm while laying on the ground under the car is real fun :)

I just easily forget a lot of things, so I need to keep that in mind while doing DIYs.
 
Makes sense, and yeah, I remember the good old days when it was cheaper :(

But with just ramps, it wouldn't be level?

Never mind! I didn't think an older GM automatic would require this kind of procedure :oops:

It seems like this transmission requires the car to be level, based on the fill plug location. You could theoretically use four ramps (two sets of ramps) to drive all four wheels up, as long as you're doing it on a level surface, like a driveway or a garage, and not on the street (as the street is not level).

Most transmissions don't have to be level when changing the fluid, though there are some exceptions.

This video also shows a transmission filter replacement, but it's almost never necessary to replace the filter. The pump used to refill the transmission isn't a lot of money from Walmart or Harbor Freight.
Here is the video I found:
 
Never mind! I didn't think an older GM automatic would require this kind of procedure :oops:

It seems like this transmission requires the car to be level, based on the fill plug location. You could theoretically use four ramps (two sets of ramps) to drive all four wheels up, as long as you're doing it on a level surface, like a driveway or a garage, and not on the street (as the street is not level).

Most transmissions don't have to be level when changing the fluid, though there are some exceptions.

This video also shows a transmission filter replacement, but it's almost never necessary to replace the filter. The pump used to refill the transmission isn't a lot of money from Walmart or Harbor Freight.
Here is the video I found:

I do like the idea of 4 ramps, but I’ll probably just use jack stands; I will just have to buy 1 more pair.

I am curious about you saying the filter usually doesn’t need to be changed

Of course the o-ring for the filter will get stuck in the opening, so I would just reuse the ring most likely
 
I do like the idea of 4 ramps, but I’ll probably just use jack stands; I will just have to buy 1 more pair.

I am curious about you saying the filter usually doesn’t need to be changed

Of course the o-ring for the filter will get stuck in the opening, so I would just reuse the ring most likely

Most transmission filters never require replacement. Even cars with spin-on transmission filters say to only replace it if it's damaged.

The biggest exception I know of is the ZF 8-speed, where the filter is integrated into the pan, and you replace the pan every time you change the ATF.
 


I am curious about you saying the filter usually doesn’t need to be changed

Transmissions do not generate “waste” like the combustion by-products of an engine.

Magnets in the pan bottom or drain plug pick up small metallic wear, and the fluid hold in suspension other contaminants. Some transmissions have no true filter at all - like some model Aisin (Toyota) units. Just a metal mesh weave jokingly called the “rock catcher” as that’s about the size of particle it would catch. And keep in mind, Aisin is often considered the premier AT designer/manufacturer in the world. I have 330+ k miles on an Aisin like that and it runs like new, no service besides regular fluid changes.
 
They changed their formulation? I seem to recall a thread that said they changed their labeling.
 
There were earlier threads in which they changed their labeling for Kalifornia labeling requirements.

Later info show a change in formulation to cover both step-shift and CVT transmissions.
Just curious, as I know you have a lot of knowledge in this field (sorry if I missed previous discussions) what is your opinion on an additive package / fluid that claims to be suitable for use in both steptronic and CVT transmissions?

I know this is some Afton additive package.

Do you think more companies will use this additive package for their transmission fluid?

I highly doubt a company would release an untested additive package, so I'm curious on your thoughts

:)
 
I loved the idea of MaxLife. Readily available, full synthetic, and very nicely priced.

Starting to come to the thought MaxLife may = many Lucas Oil products. Lots of marketing, maybe not quantifiable product/ results.

Transmissions are expensive. MaxLife does not provide piece of mind.
 
Just curious, as I know you have a lot of knowledge in this field (sorry if I missed previous discussions) what is your opinion on an additive package / fluid that claims to be suitable for use in both steptronic and CVT transmissions?

I know this is some Afton additive package.

Do you think more companies will use this additive package for their transmission fluid?

I highly doubt a company would release an untested additive package, so I'm curious on your thoughts

:)
My opinion is still the same as found here in post #9:


While the DI package may have been tested in both CVT and step-shift transmissions, you would think Afton would at least supply Mu(v) and traction coefficient charts to a formulator or blender.

Traction characteristics for CVT's and dynamic friction coefficients (Mu(v)) for step-shift transmissions have two disparate requirements. I have asked this question before: How does a fluid know whether it is in CVT transmission or a step-shift transmission?

In my view, any formulator or blender who simply takes the additive mfg. claims at face value without being supplied Mu(v) and traction coefficient charts and doing his own testing is irresponsible.
 
My opinion is still the same as found here in post #9:


While the DI package may have been tested in both CVT and step-shift transmissions, you would think Afton would at least supply Mu(v) and traction coefficient charts to a formulator or blender.

Traction characteristics for CVT's and dynamic friction coefficients (Mu(v)) for step-shift transmissions have two disparate requirements. I have asked this question before: How does a fluid know whether it is in CVT transmission or a step-shift transmission?

In my view, any formulator or blender who simply takes the additive mfg. claims at face value without being supplied Mu(v) and
Thanks - makes sense. Wasn’t sure if anything changed in over 3 years
traction coefficient charts and doing his own testing is irresponsible.
 
I can't comment on the new maxlife but I have been under my Cad, doing the ATF final fill, while it was running. I had the front on ramps, then block the front wheels and lift the rear on stands. This way if things went south, only the rear would drop toward my head. But I think properly placed stands woukd be fine.

Also, I highlybrecommend picking up a cheap 5x7 tarp at harbor freight, along with a few old towels. Place the tarp under the car with towels on top of it...kind of like a bench diaper, but for the floor. When you finish, just fold it up and toss the whole bundle. Much easier than degreasing!
 
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