I am switching my 2002 Silverado over to Amsoil TSO 0W-30 from Mobil 1 0W-30 at my next oil change and I was wondering what people think of me running this oil for 2 OLM intervals. My plan was to change my AC Delco UPF44 filter after 1 OLM interval, top off with more TSO, then do the full oil change after the OLM goes off for the second time. My driving patterns are very consistent and the OLM is currently going off at about 5000-5500 miles-- apparently depending on outside temperature and fuel mileage. That would make around a 10,000-11,000 OCI. I looked through the UOA section and I found very little information on the GM 6.0 and Amsoil products but the other GM V8's seem to be relatively hard on oil. Any input would be greatly appreciated... Oh yea, I have 108,000 miles on the truck and Mobil 1 0W-30 has been used since 880 miles.
TSO 0w-30 and a GM 6.0
- Thread starter pheasanthunter
- Start date
- Status
UOA is a good suggestion.
In general your plan sounds very doable - perhaps I can save you few bucks by suggesting Amsoil ASL 5W-30?
In general your plan sounds very doable - perhaps I can save you few bucks by suggesting Amsoil ASL 5W-30?
Pablo; what is the actual TBN on the newest/current TSO formulation? (Yes, I know this is NOT the ONLY determining factor for pheasanthunter's proposed OCI scenario, but I just want to know
)
pheasanthunter; WHERE can/do you still get the Delco Gold filters??! Or did you just "stockpile" them when they were still available?
pheasanthunter; WHERE can/do you still get the Delco Gold filters??! Or did you just "stockpile" them when they were still available?
Patman
Staff member
They still make the UPF44 Ultraguard Gold filters (as well as one other part number I believe)
They still make the UPF52 Ultraguard Gold filters as well.
I would hesitate to go 2 intervals without a UOA sample being taken at some point, especially if you've never done a UOA on the Mobil 1. Quite likely it would be OK but I would want to verify it. Why not take a sample when you change the filter and see how it is holding up so far? If it looks really good then continue on for another OLM interval.
I would hesitate to go 2 intervals without a UOA sample being taken at some point, especially if you've never done a UOA on the Mobil 1. Quite likely it would be OK but I would want to verify it. Why not take a sample when you change the filter and see how it is holding up so far? If it looks really good then continue on for another OLM interval.
I have never done an oil analysis but I'm seriously considering one on this-- my last-- Mobil 1 SL 0W-30 change just to see how it comes back. I am curious to see what the TBN is and then use that as at least a beginning point with the TSO-- guessing the starting TBN of the TSO is higher. I had purchase many cases of the Mobil 1 when it was still around $4.00 a quart and I'm now out. I use the Amsoil MCF 10W-40 in my Honda and I like it a lot. I'm very excited to use the TSO in my Silverado.
As far as the UPF44's-- I had ordered 2 cases of them a while ago and I still have 6 left. I haven't read much about them anymore...
My OCI's with Mobil 1 was when the OLM indicated... yea, I know
As far as the UPF44's-- I had ordered 2 cases of them a while ago and I still have 6 left. I haven't read much about them anymore...
My OCI's with Mobil 1 was when the OLM indicated... yea, I know
TSO new TBN is about 11-12.
If any synthetic is not good for a 10,000 to 11,000 mile OCI, then what is the point? Any good dino will get you 200,000+ miles using a 5,000 mile OCI.
Pablo, why do you reccommend the 5w-30 over the tso 0w-30. Are you saying it is not worth paying the extra $2 for TSO?
Thanks.
Thanks.
New ASL has a TBN of 12.2
For an 11K OCI with a filter change and top up at midstream – ASL will do fine in an engine in good tune. If we were talking 15K then I’d stick with the TSO. The savings isn’t all that much – but $10+ is $10+.
But this brings up why I always think a UOA is smart before extended OCI’s – make sure every is going OK in the oil. No coolant leaks, no jammed emissions devices, etc. This kind of stuff tortures an oil more than a few 1000 extra miles.
For an 11K OCI with a filter change and top up at midstream – ASL will do fine in an engine in good tune. If we were talking 15K then I’d stick with the TSO. The savings isn’t all that much – but $10+ is $10+.
But this brings up why I always think a UOA is smart before extended OCI’s – make sure every is going OK in the oil. No coolant leaks, no jammed emissions devices, etc. This kind of stuff tortures an oil more than a few 1000 extra miles.
Pablo,
Ya know, I seriously considered the ASL 5W-30 option and it took me a while to decide on the TSO. The reason I chose the TSO was the lower viscosity numbers at all temperatures--compared to the ASL-- and my almost O.C.D.-like thoughts on 0W-30 oil. (The Mobil 1 SL 0W-30 was in-between the ASL and the TSO) Both Amsoil products' starting TNB numbers were almost identical, the severe service ratings are still higher than my proposed 10-11,000 mile OCI's, and both are sold locally. However, the TSO won out in the end.
I want to utilize the product to its capabilities but I don't want to err to either side--- wasting a great product vs an increase in engine wear. It sounds as though a UOA is the only way to tell. Perhaps I should get a UOA on an OLM run of the TSO and go from there since that is the oil I'm planning on running for the near future anyways...
Thanks all for your input!
Ya know, I seriously considered the ASL 5W-30 option and it took me a while to decide on the TSO. The reason I chose the TSO was the lower viscosity numbers at all temperatures--compared to the ASL-- and my almost O.C.D.-like thoughts on 0W-30 oil.
(The Mobil 1 SL 0W-30 was in-between the ASL and the TSO) Both Amsoil products' starting TNB numbers were almost identical, the severe service ratings are still higher than my proposed 10-11,000 mile OCI's, and both are sold locally. However, the TSO won out in the end. I want to utilize the product to its capabilities but I don't want to err to either side--- wasting a great product vs an increase in engine wear. It sounds as though a UOA is the only way to tell. Perhaps I should get a UOA on an OLM run of the TSO and go from there since that is the oil I'm planning on running for the near future anyways...
Thanks all for your input!
So Pablo, how do I know which one is the new ASL? When did id get reformulated?
Thanks.
Thanks.
And Pablo, I bought some TSO about a year ago. Do you know if it has been reformulated recently? How would I be able to know by looking at the oil botle?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Leualex,
I'm obviously not Pablo but I just recently wondered the same things. The ASL is packaged with a newer, different label than the old formulation. The TSO has the same old label but can be identified by the batch number on the bottle. However, when I asked Amsoil's tech, I was told that everything in their distribution centers are now of the new formulation. You can view the specs on Amsoil's website under the MSDS area. I believe they were both updated in October 2006. However, the website doesn't have the current TSO specs on it's specific page...
He also said that all the new ATF in the distribution centers are of the new Dex-VI specs...
Sorry to jump in Pablo, and if I'm incorrect, please feel free to correct me...
PEACE!
I'm obviously not Pablo but I just recently wondered the same things. The ASL is packaged with a newer, different label than the old formulation. The TSO has the same old label but can be identified by the batch number on the bottle. However, when I asked Amsoil's tech, I was told that everything in their distribution centers are now of the new formulation. You can view the specs on Amsoil's website under the MSDS area. I believe they were both updated in October 2006. However, the website doesn't have the current TSO specs on it's specific page...
He also said that all the new ATF in the distribution centers are of the new Dex-VI specs...
Sorry to jump in Pablo, and if I'm incorrect, please feel free to correct me...
PEACE!
I can understand the 0W requirement. Makes sense.
TSO from a year ago is not the latest formula - however that should be of no deep concern. You'll get a little more P and Zn. The base oil is different and may have a slight rise in viscosity with use - again not a worry - your wear rates will low.
Everything in the warehouses is indeed the latest formula.
TSO from a year ago is not the latest formula - however that should be of no deep concern. You'll get a little more P and Zn. The base oil is different and may have a slight rise in viscosity with use - again not a worry - your wear rates will low.
Everything in the warehouses is indeed the latest formula.
Quote:
Perhaps I should get a UOA on an OLM run of the TSO and go from there since that is the oil I'm planning on running for the near future anyways...
Thanks all for your input!
When you do this, I would just take a sample and not change your oil when the OLM hits 0% the first time. If all looks good you can leave it in and keep running.
By this do you mean take a sample from the oil pan through the dipstick tube? I know that quite a bit of oil comes out of the top end when the filter is removed but that would be difficult to catch in a container-- unless it was caught in a clean glass bowl. Or, do you mean use the oil directly out of the filter?
Pheasanthunter (reminds me when I was one from 1966-1981 in central Illinois),
Looks like you drive about 20-25,000 miles a year. I recommend going with the 5W30 ASL or the 0W30 TSO, the 25,000 mile AMSOIL EaO64 filter, and the AMSOIL EaA123 100,000 mile dry reusable air filter. Get a UOA at about 10,000 miles to make sure all is well and plan to go for yearly oil/filter changes and vacuum the filter. With these filters, your oil is going to stay clean along time.
Looks like you drive about 20-25,000 miles a year. I recommend going with the 5W30 ASL or the 0W30 TSO, the 25,000 mile AMSOIL EaO64 filter, and the AMSOIL EaA123 100,000 mile dry reusable air filter. Get a UOA at about 10,000 miles to make sure all is well and plan to go for yearly oil/filter changes and vacuum the filter. With these filters, your oil is going to stay clean along time.
- Status
Similar threads
