Reading stuck 75k NGK Iridium plugs in 3.0 V6 Honda.

[Gasbuggy]

It's quite useful in practice, First design Ford 3V plugs are a perfect example, And even the 1 piece 2nd design can be a bear to remove without taking the engine for a hard run before attempting removal.

Logic is the different expansion rates of the aluminum heads and the spark plugs.

 

[someonesomewhere]

Y'all can do what has served you well. As for me, I'm sticking by my (possibly) outdated advice. I say possibly because it dates back to the 80s/90s, when not only were the metals dissimilar, but at best the plugs would be black oxide coated, and were prone to rusting badly.

I will just add that I have *never* stripped a plug hole or broken off a plug in well over 30 years of mechanic work.

 

[kschachn]

Y'all can do what has served you well. As for me, I'm sticking by my (possibly) outdated advice. I say possibly because it dates back to the 80s/90s, when not only were the metals dissimilar, but at best the plugs would be black oxide coated, and were prone to rusting badly.

I will just add that I have *never* stripped a plug hole or broken off a plug in well over 30 years of mechanic work.

I’m not sure I understand what the coating has to do with it? It’s still the different expansion rate that helps.

 

[JohnnyG]

https://www.crcindustries.com/blog/world-anti-seize/

Granted, this is from CRC and not Permatex, but I don't see a ceramic antiseize listed. I do see some versions that I might choose for my spark plugs, possibly Nuclear Grade?

 

[JohnnyG]

I’m not sure I understand what the coating has to do with it? It’s still the different expansion rate that helps.

I think that the coating on Delco plugs, IF I recall correctly, was to prevent corrosion and to provide some slip layer to prevent galling.
As Trav mentioned though, this may have only been a metallic oxide coating that was not very durable, especially under the (wet) conditions that he described.

 

[TomYoung]

Thanks for posting. You did well in recognizing there was a problem and took your time with the removal. This simple maintenance could’ve turned into an expensive repair.

And no matter how many of stuck plugs, or very difficult to remove stories we have here, there is always a group that insists no antiseize is the correct way, always.

The problem is overtorquing, not lack of anti seize.

 

[cb_13]

I will just add that I have *never* stripped a plug hole or broken off a plug in well over 30 years of mechanic work.

I’m going to assume you’ve done no more than 3 plug changes on 04-07 5.4 3 valves then. I’ve found it doesn’t matter what method you use eventually you’ll have one of those suckers break anyway!

 

[someonesomewhere]

I’m going to assume you’ve done no more than 3 plug changes on 04-07 5.4 3 valves then. I’ve found it doesn’t matter what method you use eventually you’ll have one of those suckers break anyway!

Have done 0 of those. From all the reading I've done, I'd never approach one. And I rarely do work for others now. I should be safe from the malfeasance! Haha

 

[kschachn]

If you use the torque angle shown on the plug box then no correction is required for anti-seize.

 

[someonesomewhere]

I’m not sure I understand what the coating has to do with it? It’s still the different expansion rate that helps.

I'm not sure I can explain it in a simple enough fashion that you'd understand it, then. Lol