Spark Plugs hand tight

raaizin

raaizin

Joined
Apr 7, 2004
Messages
1,181
Location
NJ
I had a reputable shop do spark plugs on my daughters 2008 Jetta 2.5 3 years ago with 129k miles on it. I do keep a log but I forgot to enter this as it wasnt done by me and quite honestly didnt think we would still own this car but it still runs great. Car currently has 162k miles and I decided to do the plugs since I had the chance. When I went to loosen the plugs they were practically hand tight, I honestly didnt think the socket wasnt on the plugs. Mistakes happen and no damage, my question is would this cause a loss of power. There wasnt any check engine lights. The car is primarily used for short trips to the train station 2 miles away. When I do plugs I like to use a torque wrench as I dont trust my skills without one. Here is a picture of the plugs

IMG_0430.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
raaizin said:
I had a reputable shop do spark plugs on my daughters 2008 Jetta 2.5 3 years ago with 129k miles on it. I do keep a log but I forgot to enter this as it wasnt done by me and quite honestly didnt think we would still own this car but it still runs great. Car currently has 162k miles and I decided to do the plugs since I had the chance. When I went to loosen the plugs they were practically hand tight, I honestly didnt think the socket wasnt on the plugs. Mistakes happen and no damage, my question is would this cause a loss of power. There wasnt any check engine lights. The car is primarily used for short trips to the train station 2 miles away. When I do plugs I like to use a torque wrench as I dont trust my skills without one. Here is a picture of the plugs
Click to expand...
Let me get this straight. You went 129k on the original plugs and then decided to replace the next ones with only 33k on them?
 
to me those plugs show no sign of "blow-by" so you don't have anything to worry about. If they had backed out far enough to create an issue you would be able to see evidence on the porcelain part of the plug and the hex for the socket, not to mention the running condition, sounds and DTC's the vehicle should have had.

Just my $0.02
 
In the single picture the plugs were sealing. If they were not you would see carbon tracks at the top close to the insulator. There could have also been carbon build up at the bottom of the thread as well which I don't see any? This all means that you are a normal Dailey driver that does not run up the RPM much at all.
But it is a single picture.
I do see looking at the condition of the overall spark plugs that the compression of the engine is not even, the fuel distribution is not even which is an indicator of a normally worn engine. Nothing to be concerned about at this point. You can verify what I said with a proper compression test and leak down % check. Also with a tail pipe sampling of exhaust or run the engine up on an ossicscope.


IMHO.....
I wish those old 1950's (or older) How to read a spark plug charts would go away. I mean really it makes everyone a self proclaimed spark plug examiner expert?
 
With crush washer plugs feel the crushing and stop during the crushing of the gasket. If they are tightened too much the crushing is gone and it becomes like a flat washer and could loosen easier. Taper seats I still do by feel rather than value. I got a Lisle thread chaser and just did my plugs (head was off so no dirt worry) what a difference it made. Torque eliminates the feel element.
 
Nash said:
With crush washer plugs feel the crushing and stop during the crushing of the gasket. If they are tightened too much the crushing is gone and it becomes like a flat washer and could loosen easier. Taper seats I still do by feel rather than value. I got a Lisle thread chaser and just did my plugs (head was off so no dirt worry) what a difference it made. Torque eliminates the feel element.
Click to expand...

I do personally this and I am NOT suggesting anyone do this procedure!

When I absolutely must chase a spark plug thread with the head still on engine. I remove the spark plug bring the piston to top dead center and then stuff the spark plug holes with moisten bread until it touches the bottom of the threads. Then do a quick 2 run chase and then vacuum out the contaminated bread with a *specials hose adapter I made just for this procedure . What ever bread remains will in no way harm an engine and will be blown out in seconds after the engine fires.
 
NitroM3 said:
I do personally this and I am NOT suggesting anyone do this procedure!

When I absolutely must chase a spark plug thread with the head still on engine. I remove the spark plug bring the piston to top dead center and then stuff the spark plug holes with moisten bread until it touches the bottom of the threads. Then do a quick 2 run chase and then vacuum out the contaminated bread with a *specials hose adapter I made just for this procedure . What ever bread remains will in no way harm an engine and will be blown out in seconds after the engine fires.
Click to expand...
A neat idea. No, I would not like to try that procedure. Bread is a trick plumbers and pipe fitters use to stop water leaking thru from valves on a pipe that requires soldering or welding. Once the repair is done the bread is just dissolved and washes away inside the piping.
 
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