power steering fluid change interval

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Im thinking of doing power steering fluid changes on my dodge truck every 30,000 miles just to keep the fluid clean and fresh. What do yall think? I'll use the turkey baster method. Anyone use one of those magnefine filters on one of these trucks? I think it's stupid that they don't use filters on these power steering systems. They could last so much longer. They don't bother to install magnets either which irritates me too. Any harm in me putting a magnet at the bottom of the tank?
 
If you have the magnefine you don't need another magnet. And yes, 30,000 miles is a better interval than most cars will ever see.
I have seen cars with 100,000 miles and up on the original fluid. Most people leave it until the pump blows. Changing it out every once in a while will really help slow down the wear and tear of that system. Placing a filter in it will help even more.
 
Changing fluid especially PS fluid like that is easy and cheap insurance.

It is a very neglected fluid.

I personally think a magnet on the PS system is probably overkill.
 
I replace the PS fluid 3 times/year. This is an inexpensive way to increase the pump life and the steering rack service life.I'm told a steering rack replacement is expensive and I don't doubt it.
 
3x a year? If it gets changed once in a vehicle lifetime that's better than most. I say every 2 years/30k or even 50k is decent. I am talking about a full flush, not the turkey method, which is a half-measure if there ever was one.
 
I replaced my steering gear on my dodge Van 15 months ago. The directions stated the warranty was void if the pump was not flushed and a filter added. I am using a magnefine filter.

I did flush it, then installed a cheap fuel filter in between the lines and ran the engine before I hooked the lines to the new gear. There was a lot of metallic debris in the pan when I drained the system. I did not cut open the cheap fuel filter.
 
I would say that 2 years/30k miles or 3 years/36k miles is a reasonable interval even using a suction pump method. Depending on the color of PSF and reservoir capacity you might have to do it anywhere between 3-8 times to get the most fluid out.

Filter is definitely an overkill unless it's some kind of extra heavy duty application in a very dusty high temperature environment.

I have to agree with previous posters that it's a cheap insurance.
 
Here are pics of the $5 NAPA 3003 on my Hondas.

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Right after taking the pics, I had to R&R the filter on the red car, I put it in backwards.
 
i used a filter like that on a coolant line. wuh oh. the paper is bowed inward.
btw, the pump won't like the restriction that the filter creates on the return end. WHIIIIIINE
 
I think the volume of coolant is too high for a small fitler. I never had any issues after installing them. Both cars are sold now, but the CRV belongs to a family member, so I'd hear about it if there was.
 
A Magnefine in a PS system would tend to add life to the fluid because contamination is often the potential killer that's first in line. That's the primary reason for changing the fluid.

After filtration, PS fluid life will depend on operating temperature... which will be the indicator for oxidation. Some systems have coolers. I've checked a few of my own vehicles and on the street they ran at 160-180F. At that temp, 60-80K would be a decent interval, after an early initial change to dump the built-in and break-in contamination and to add a return line filter.

In the absence of oil temp info, 30K OCIs would provide an overabundance of caution and 60K (after a change and a Magnefine) would seem to be a good, safe interval.

On trail oriented 4x4 of the past could see 250F+ and could literally fry the fluid in a season of 'wheeling (it also had Hydroboost) but a big oil cooler helped all that. A small cooler could be a fluid life benefit to any PS system, especially if operated in hot climates.
 
My truck actually has a separate cooler for the power steering system alone. It does not have a filter installed from the factory. So I was thinking magnefine. Truck recently went out of warranty so now I can re engineer certain things to make them last longer than the manufacturer intended.
 
Why not just use the turkey baster method at every oil change?

Suck it out once, then refill..

Sounds much more simple than adding filters, and other stuff that could go wrong, leak, or clog up..

Keeping the fluid clean will make the pump last longer than most cars.
 
Iuse a power steering filter from autozone. Similar to magnefilter but cheaper. WOuld not use a fuel filter. On another forum; a member did a similar setup. There is no bypass in a fuel filterand his system blew apart when the filter clogged.

THe autozone filter appears wwellmade. THe size of a large fuel filter and case is all metal. Has a magnet. Will cut opne when replaced and hope to show pictures.

I to the turkey base change annually.
 
Yeah, I wouldn't use a fuel filter either. I don't know about a Honda, but you can have a surprising amount of pressure on the return hose on a GM power steering system. The hose nipple in the reservoir is quite restrictive, and on a cold morning pressure can be on the order of 100psi. Long story as to how I know that, but just take my word for it- I stuck a gauge on one.

Also those plastic fuel filters do not take heat well. Again... long story as to how I know that (I used one exactly like that to filter coolant). P/s systems can get really hot at times.

Personally, I'd remove that plastic fuel filter post haste. If it hasn't cause you problems yet, it's only because you're lucky.
 
For my own p/s systems, I just swap out the fluid via turkey-baster once in a while when I feel like it. Probably once or twice a year. It's much better treatment than the VAST majority of power steering systems will ever see.

I DID put a filter on the return line once... but that was only because of multiple pump failures and lotsa metal in the system. I used a spin-on oil filter. Worked fine for a couple years... finally burst one morning when the temp was about -10 F. I just bypassed the filter, topped off the system, and went about my business.
 
I am really concerned with flow with filters on the PS system.
What seems to be OK may not be for bunches of reasons.

Anyway, PS fluid changing is a great idea. The TB method makes it painless. When you do it, perform a number of flushes, and starting the car each time in between. Clean the empty reservoir if you can with a lint free cloth and a screwdriver/whatever after the first drain.
How often? Once a year , maybe every other year, if you do a good job. PS systems can run really HOT. A full synthetic is smart, and will also help in really cold weather.
 
Originally Posted By: onion
Yeah, I wouldn't use a fuel filter either. I don't know about a Honda, but you can have a surprising amount of pressure on the return hose on a GM power steering system. The hose nipple in the reservoir is quite restrictive, and on a cold morning pressure can be on the order of 100psi. Long story as to how I know that, but just take my word for it- I stuck a gauge on one.

Also those plastic fuel filters do not take heat well. Again... long story as to how I know that (I used one exactly like that to filter coolant). P/s systems can get really hot at times.

Personally, I'd remove that plastic fuel filter post haste. If it hasn't cause you problems yet, it's only because you're lucky.


He clearly states that he did NOT use a fuel filter, especially a plastic one.
 
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