post your latest differential fluid change
- Thread starter electrolover
- Start date
Hello, 2003 Chevy S-10 w/57,000 miles
OUT Front: Couldn't get the stiff hose of our cheap suction gun to go into the drain & fill hole.
IN: Topped it off using 4 oz. of Mobil1 80-90
OUT Rear: Didn't have time to remove the rear cover to do it right.
IN: Topped off using 12 oz. above.
Catch you later. Kira
OUT Front: Couldn't get the stiff hose of our cheap suction gun to go into the drain & fill hole.
IN: Topped it off using 4 oz. of Mobil1 80-90
OUT Rear: Didn't have time to remove the rear cover to do it right.
IN: Topped off using 12 oz. above.
Catch you later. Kira
1994 mustang gt 5spd w 3.08 and 77k
Out: unknown but looked nasty. Factory? Took off cover and cleaned.
In: Redline Synthetic 75w90 with friction modifier and new seal
Out: unknown but looked nasty. Factory? Took off cover and cleaned.
In: Redline Synthetic 75w90 with friction modifier and new seal
2002 Chevy Trailblazer LT/114K
Out: Unknown, but it was black and I mean BLACK!
In: Mobil 1 75w-90 LS
Out: Unknown, but it was black and I mean BLACK!
In: Mobil 1 75w-90 LS
2003 Chevy Silverado 4 X 4 1500, front diff. Out Castrol Syntec, in Royal Purple 75w90. I changed the factory fill at about 25K miles and was a little concerned at how the fluid looked. There was a gob of moist looking fluid that came out first when I pulled the drain plug. Probably because the front diff has never been warmed up since I bought the truck new. I only use 4 WD for short runs up a grassy hill or when pulling a boat up a ramp. About the only time I could foresee warming up the diff is in snow, but I've never driven the truck in snow.
So when I did the change at 25K I found out about needing to change the threaded vent adapter if running synth. Since I didn't like the looks of the factory fill I decided to change the fluid when I changed the vent adapter, which turned out to be at 3K miles on the odometer. This is probably a few miles on the the front diff at most. I would be surprised if the front diff has run over 5 miles in the 28K miles on the truck.
There was another bit of goo near the drain plug, this time black instead of moist looking. I think the diff has some residue and the oil gets a bit stagnant from non use. I'm not going to run it on dry roads long enough to get it warm since thats not good on the drivetrain, and I rarely drive it on wet, snowy or gravel roads.
I thought it strange GM would make you buy a fitting that is white to replace a black one just to get an O ring that will tolerate synth. Looking at the fitting, they changed the rotating vent baffle to metal from plastic, probably to make it more reliable at being in the correct orientation. The original O ring was black with an orange coating, and was deteriorating, not necessarily due to synth oil though. It was more deteriorated where it was exposed to air.
So it appears the incentive to replace the fitting is more than just due to intolerance to synth oils, but a poor deteriorating rubber compound, and an improved and more reliable rotating baffle.
So when I did the change at 25K I found out about needing to change the threaded vent adapter if running synth. Since I didn't like the looks of the factory fill I decided to change the fluid when I changed the vent adapter, which turned out to be at 3K miles on the odometer. This is probably a few miles on the the front diff at most. I would be surprised if the front diff has run over 5 miles in the 28K miles on the truck.
There was another bit of goo near the drain plug, this time black instead of moist looking. I think the diff has some residue and the oil gets a bit stagnant from non use. I'm not going to run it on dry roads long enough to get it warm since thats not good on the drivetrain, and I rarely drive it on wet, snowy or gravel roads.
I thought it strange GM would make you buy a fitting that is white to replace a black one just to get an O ring that will tolerate synth. Looking at the fitting, they changed the rotating vent baffle to metal from plastic, probably to make it more reliable at being in the correct orientation. The original O ring was black with an orange coating, and was deteriorating, not necessarily due to synth oil though. It was more deteriorated where it was exposed to air.
So it appears the incentive to replace the fitting is more than just due to intolerance to synth oils, but a poor deteriorating rubber compound, and an improved and more reliable rotating baffle.
Originally Posted By: ledslinger
2003 Chevy Silverado 4 X 4 1500, front diff. Out Castrol Syntec, in Royal Purple 75w90. I changed the factory fill at about 25K miles and was a little concerned at how the fluid looked. There was a gob of moist looking fluid that came out first when I pulled the drain plug. Probably because the front diff has never been warmed up since I bought the truck new. I only use 4 WD for short runs up a grassy hill or when pulling a boat up a ramp. About the only time I could foresee warming up the diff is in snow, but I've never driven the truck in snow.
So when I did the change at 25K I found out about needing to change the threaded vent adapter if running synth. Since I didn't like the looks of the factory fill I decided to change the fluid when I changed the vent adapter, which turned out to be at 3K miles on the odometer. This is probably a few miles on the the front diff at most. I would be surprised if the front diff has run over 5 miles in the 28K miles on the truck.
There was another bit of goo near the drain plug, this time black instead of moist looking. I think the diff has some residue and the oil gets a bit stagnant from non use. I'm not going to run it on dry roads long enough to get it warm since thats not good on the drivetrain, and I rarely drive it on wet, snowy or gravel roads.
I thought it strange GM would make you buy a fitting that is white to replace a black one just to get an O ring that will tolerate synth. Looking at the fitting, they changed the rotating vent baffle to metal from plastic, probably to make it more reliable at being in the correct orientation. The original O ring was black with an orange coating, and was deteriorating, not necessarily due to synth oil though. It was more deteriorated where it was exposed to air.
So it appears the incentive to replace the fitting is more than just due to intolerance to synth oils, but a poor deteriorating rubber compound, and an improved and more reliable rotating baffle.
Since I've owned this truck for 11 years, I'm late to the party when it comes to my understanding of how this front diff works. I didn't know what shafts turned during 2WD. Now I understand that the CV half shafts, and left stub axle turn with the wheels. The actuator motor works a fork and splined dog that disconnects the right half shaft from a short intermediate shaft. The ring, pinion and driveshaft don't turn, but I don't know if that is due simply to friction, or if something in the transfer case restricts them in 2WD. Since the ring gear and carrier is stationary and the left stub is turning, the side or spider gears are turned, which rotates the right intermediate axle backwards. When the 4WD is actuated the driveshaft and ring gear go quickly to road speed and I assume there is a short delay until the right imtermediate axle goes from spinning backwards to road speed, so the splined cog can engage the right flange stub.
2003 Chevy Silverado 4 X 4 1500, front diff. Out Castrol Syntec, in Royal Purple 75w90. I changed the factory fill at about 25K miles and was a little concerned at how the fluid looked. There was a gob of moist looking fluid that came out first when I pulled the drain plug. Probably because the front diff has never been warmed up since I bought the truck new. I only use 4 WD for short runs up a grassy hill or when pulling a boat up a ramp. About the only time I could foresee warming up the diff is in snow, but I've never driven the truck in snow.
So when I did the change at 25K I found out about needing to change the threaded vent adapter if running synth. Since I didn't like the looks of the factory fill I decided to change the fluid when I changed the vent adapter, which turned out to be at 3K miles on the odometer. This is probably a few miles on the the front diff at most. I would be surprised if the front diff has run over 5 miles in the 28K miles on the truck.
There was another bit of goo near the drain plug, this time black instead of moist looking. I think the diff has some residue and the oil gets a bit stagnant from non use. I'm not going to run it on dry roads long enough to get it warm since thats not good on the drivetrain, and I rarely drive it on wet, snowy or gravel roads.
I thought it strange GM would make you buy a fitting that is white to replace a black one just to get an O ring that will tolerate synth. Looking at the fitting, they changed the rotating vent baffle to metal from plastic, probably to make it more reliable at being in the correct orientation. The original O ring was black with an orange coating, and was deteriorating, not necessarily due to synth oil though. It was more deteriorated where it was exposed to air.
So it appears the incentive to replace the fitting is more than just due to intolerance to synth oils, but a poor deteriorating rubber compound, and an improved and more reliable rotating baffle.
Since I've owned this truck for 11 years, I'm late to the party when it comes to my understanding of how this front diff works. I didn't know what shafts turned during 2WD. Now I understand that the CV half shafts, and left stub axle turn with the wheels. The actuator motor works a fork and splined dog that disconnects the right half shaft from a short intermediate shaft. The ring, pinion and driveshaft don't turn, but I don't know if that is due simply to friction, or if something in the transfer case restricts them in 2WD. Since the ring gear and carrier is stationary and the left stub is turning, the side or spider gears are turned, which rotates the right intermediate axle backwards. When the 4WD is actuated the driveshaft and ring gear go quickly to road speed and I assume there is a short delay until the right imtermediate axle goes from spinning backwards to road speed, so the splined cog can engage the right flange stub.
I missed the edit deadline, a few more commets:
So even though I rarely run in 4WD, the spider gears are running and mixing the lube, and lube is needed for all the bearings in the axle except for the carrier bearings. It is a situation where the lube likely doesn't get up to a temperature to drive out any moisture since the unloaded side gears wouldn't make enough heat. So although rare 4WD use doesn't result in a stagnant sump, it is sump that probably never gets above 150 degrees F in 2WD mode.
This means in cold weather with the factory recommended conventional lube, the spider gears and axle bearings are running in cold and viscous lube. Not exactly a stagnant sump, but with only stub and intermediate axles and spider gears turning and never getting warm enough to drive of moisture, at least semi stagnant. I'm glad I changed to synth.
So even though I rarely run in 4WD, the spider gears are running and mixing the lube, and lube is needed for all the bearings in the axle except for the carrier bearings. It is a situation where the lube likely doesn't get up to a temperature to drive out any moisture since the unloaded side gears wouldn't make enough heat. So although rare 4WD use doesn't result in a stagnant sump, it is sump that probably never gets above 150 degrees F in 2WD mode.
This means in cold weather with the factory recommended conventional lube, the spider gears and axle bearings are running in cold and viscous lube. Not exactly a stagnant sump, but with only stub and intermediate axles and spider gears turning and never getting warm enough to drive of moisture, at least semi stagnant. I'm glad I changed to synth.
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit V8
F & R factory fill drained.
Refilled:
Front Diff - Mobil 1 75w-90
Rear ELSD Diff - Mobil 1 75w-90 (did not require any additional friction modifier)
F & R factory fill drained.
Refilled:
Front Diff - Mobil 1 75w-90
Rear ELSD Diff - Mobil 1 75w-90 (did not require any additional friction modifier)
2005 Infiniti FX35 RWD
96,600 miles.
Diff fluid changed approx 50,000 miles ago with Mobil 1 75w-90 LS
Started to hear some very very subtle whining under load up neighborhood hill.
Expected black fluid but it was honey colored (a couple shades darker than new)
Drained and refilled with the same type/kind of fluid.
Whine is gone. Probably good for another 50k miles.
96,600 miles.
Diff fluid changed approx 50,000 miles ago with Mobil 1 75w-90 LS
Started to hear some very very subtle whining under load up neighborhood hill.
Expected black fluid but it was honey colored (a couple shades darker than new)
Drained and refilled with the same type/kind of fluid.
Whine is gone. Probably good for another 50k miles.
Helped friend with drain and fill of factory fluid in a:
2012 Jeep Rubicon
F & R Dana 44's with factory fluid @ 17,000 miles.
Replaced with Mobil 1 75w-140 in the rear and 75w-90 in the front.
2012 Jeep Rubicon
F & R Dana 44's with factory fluid @ 17,000 miles.
Replaced with Mobil 1 75w-140 in the rear and 75w-90 in the front.
2013 Dodge Charger - 35000km
OUT: Mopar 75w140 (FF)
IN: Mopar 75w140
Nice and easy with drain and fill plugs, if a little cold today. I got a really good deal on this stuff but retail is $39/liter here!
OUT: Mopar 75w140 (FF)
IN: Mopar 75w140
Nice and easy with drain and fill plugs, if a little cold today. I got a really good deal on this stuff but retail is $39/liter here!
2008 Lexus IS250, I forgot what miles (between 30-50K, I think)
out = factory fill
in = Redline 75w85
I'll keep it there for life.
out = factory fill
in = Redline 75w85
I'll keep it there for life.
2010 Lancer Ralliart transfer case
Out: VWB 80w90
In: RP 75w90
I will do the rear differential the next time I change engine oil.
Out: VWB 80w90
In: RP 75w90
I will do the rear differential the next time I change engine oil.
'13MY Outback 3.6R 16,000 miles front and rear diffs
Out: FF
In: Subaru Extra S
Out: FF
In: Subaru Extra S
2014 Ford Mustang GT Track Pack 5082 miles
changed factory fill
Amsoil 75w140
changed factory fill
Amsoil 75w140
2004 Grand Marquis
124,000 miles - 54k on fluid
Changed leaking pinion seal
Out - Valvoline DuraBlend
In - Mobil 1
124,000 miles - 54k on fluid
Changed leaking pinion seal
Out - Valvoline DuraBlend
In - Mobil 1
Last edited:
2014 Subaru Forester 2.5i.
15k miles.
Front and rear diffs.
Out: FF
In: Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90
Front didn't look horrible. Rear was BLACK and metallic.
15k miles.
Front and rear diffs.
Out: FF
In: Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90
Front didn't look horrible. Rear was BLACK and metallic.
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