Post your latest brake job

2018 F150 67k

Off - factory pads. They had more meat than I thought they did. I thought I was about to be shim on rotor lol.
Slap on - Raybestos E3 Hybrid. Got 'em on RA for about 45$ for the set. I was kind of pissy that the fronts didn't come with hardware but my hardware was fine. Have about 1000 miles and no squeak and no braking issues.

I have a set of PFC pads somewhere (in theory) that I got when I worked there. I'm about positive that my kids tossed them when they surprised dad with a garage and shed clean out last fall. I've since cleaned the garage again and there really isn't that much in the shed. My son has a Snap On cab that's locked and he lives out of state now and that's the only place they can be. No big deal, though it ate me up while I was looking for them.
 
2012 Honda Odyssey, 157k miles

Off
: BrakeMotive drilled/slotted rotors, on car for 7.5 years and 105k miles.

 On: Wagner coated rotors. Front disks are the 2015 design with vented caps.

Raybestos EHT pads still have plenty of life so kept them on. Hopefully these disks will last longer than the original Honda disks; first resurface was at 17k miles and the second resurface was at 33k. I tossed them at 50k when they shuddered again. The BrakeMotive have been pretty good, albeit loud (normal for slotted).
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2019 4Runner. Bought used, not sure what came off. old pads were GG rated in the front and FF rated in the rear and had a “woven look” shim over the back side of the pads.

brembo front rotors went on, since I’ve read of a few balance issues lately with Raybestos. Lots of slide grease anywhere appropriate. element3 pads all the way around, all HH rated in this application. Pedal modulates well and stops with more authority, even before breaking in.

2 bottles of fluid were needed to thoroughly bleed this vehicle. The MC holds a ton and it took a bit to get good fluid through it. MC is super complex, not a vacuum boosted unit, maybe hydro-boosted?

I think I’ve put element3 pads on 6 vehicles now. I’ve not had a single experience less than ideal.
 
2006 Volvo XC90.
New rotors, pads, clips, all wheels, fluid changes.
Car only has 80,000 miles but the brakes were due, so just before winter, done.
TOMB
 
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2009 Honda Accord EX-L coupe.

Off: unknown pads unknown mileage
approx 40,000 miles since purchasing in Oct 2019.
Pads were worn to minimum specs.

On: Akebono ProAct ultra premium pads all around.
Centric premium e-coated rotors
brake fluid flush.

Should be good for another 60,000 - 80,000 miles.
 

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2015 Honda Odyssey 69k
Off most likely factory rotors unknown brake pads.
On
Wagner OEX pads
Wagner Rotors
Front and rear done.
 
Pad slapped rear 2011 MDX. RR caliper piston frozen. Took a while to move with c-clamps and 2' xtension. Put it all back. Will see how long that caliper last. Ordering a used caliper from ebay just in case.
 
2019 Tundra, 35K miles.
Was experiencing a soft pedal, although all pads had at least 60% life left. Turns out living in salt-ridden northern Midwest is absolute hell on brakes, and not just the pads either.

Turned out both multiple pistons on each front 4-piston caliper were frozen, and the pad retaining pins were frozen to the caliper AND pads.

Parts:
Powerstop coated front calipers x 2
Centric coated front and rear rotors
Centric Fleet Performance pads
Healthy application of Silglyde on pads, pad retention pins, and caliper slide pins (in rear).

Braking power is dramatically improved, even over stock. The Fleet Performance pads have great stopping power and bite, but dust significantly more than the OE ceramic pads. Only a very occasional squeak when cold. I thought I read somewhere that the Fleet Performance pads are the same pad as one of the boutique manufacturers (Hawk maybe?) but I can't remember where I read that.

My experience with the premium Centric rotors has been universally positive on multiple vehicles.
 
2017 Subaru Outback 52k
Off
Front factory pads and rotors
Rear factory rotors unknown aftermarket pads

On
Raybestos E3 pads front and rear
Raybestos rotors front and rear
 
Brake fluid flush & tire rotation
2020 Honda Accord

40k miles
Out: factory fill
In: Lucas DOT 3

The old fluid still looked pretty good but I'm just following the Honda recommendation to flush every 36 months.

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Sunday 11-19
Neighbors '16 4Runner. I think 140k
Off- unknown front pads and rotors.
On - Raybestos EH3 rotors and pads
Full brake fluid flush with Bosch ESI6.

Told him to order rear pads also, they are maybe lower than my Accord ones were.
 
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I found it, this is pretty much what the back side of both rotors looked like on the rear as well as the back pads, I don't know what someone did previously to get this kind of uneven wear.
The rear rotors on my Accord looked just like that on the inside. Outside had some edge rusting but not like inside. Stops better now with all pads making full contact.
 
2018 Subaru Legacy Sport. 53546 miles on front brakes and car.

Off/On OEM Subaru Pads and Rotors.

Had rears done I think last year or early this year.
 
Sunday 11-19
Neighbors '16 4Runner. I think 140k
Off- unknown front pads and rotors.
On - Raybestos EH3 rotors and pads
Full brake fluid flush with Bosch ESI6.

Told him to order rear pads also, they are maybe lower than my Accord ones were.
Neighbor finally ordered the pads last week. I just got to it today. Now he needs to order the rear rotors also. Passenger side could be used but drivers side is quite gouged on outside. The outboard pad was on metal. Last place that did it I don't think cleaned and lubed the slides, they were like glue. Passenger side was missing the rubber plug to seal outside and bellows has a chunk out of it where it goes into caliper. I had to use the impact to get the caliper slide out. Luckily I had one of the rubber plugs from my old Sequoia in my brake-box-of-stuff. The old "grease" if you want to call it that was so sticky from water getting in there. Cleaned, wire brushed everything, got the rubber "tubes" out and cleaned them. The one on drivers side was twisted up and also causing binding. They also didn't put the swear sensors on the last set to help let you know they are getting low. I put them on the new ones and the worn re-using one.

I put 3 new Raybestos Element 3 pads on. Passenger side in and out, drivers side inboard. I took the pad that had life left to it and used it on outside, drivers side. I know I need to redo the whole thing when the rotors and new rubber boots come but at least he can get to work (NYPD) safely. The new pads will be fine to reuse with new rotors. Everything was moving nicely as it should.

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2015 Altima S ex-Hertz high mileage strippie, 183K
My friend's Altima brakes have been over due for some time; I've had the front pads and rotors on the shelf for well over a year.
Came apart easy, of course using the Makita gun. One pad was frozen in the bracket.
The pad installation is a little weird, the way the one spring tang fits under the clip... I like to assemble the bracket pad assembly on the bench, then just bolt the bracket on.

Dan was very happy with his brake pedal. You can't kill this car. Gonna need axles and a valve cover real soon. Like another year or two...
 
I posted a longer version with more photographs in the maintenance section.

2005 Ford Taurus 120,000 miles, purchased used 7 years ago with 50,000 miles.

Changed pads and rotors to Napa Premium. Did a turkey baster job on master cylinder.

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Did 2010 Hyundai Accent front brakes today, customer supplied some Amazon rotors and pads.
Brake fluid flush. Car came with wheels so hot I waited to undo lug nuts. Pads were seized up and worn pretty much to metal. Job went smooth, we went for a drive later, he mentioned car accelerated better (duh, brakes were pretty much frozen engaged) and braking didn't require much effort.
Smooth, quiet and predictable braking is how I like it.
 
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