Post your latest brake job

Couple months ago I replaced a caliper. Pads ok, so reused. Couple years ago I did a pad slap on same vehicle. Rotors are getting real crusty on that one now, maybe next year I'll replace them.

Haven‘t done my usual relube of brake ears this spring though. Really should, maybe next tire rotation. Nor run any brake fluid as part of a flush. Kinda afraid to, last time I looked in the MC of my oldest car, it was all green. Well, to be honest it was green right after I changed it six years ago too, but it seems greener now, and I'm pretty sure I changed it more than once since then.

Usually get at least 5yr/100k out of a set of brakes, more sometimes. I suspect on our hybrid it might never get brakes. Or that if it does, it'll because the rotors gave up first (from rust).
 
2013 BMW X3

Off: BMW brake pads, Textar branded. I'm assuming they are ceramic as there is no dust

On: Dyanmic Friction Euro 5000 ceramic with hardware

We used ATE platilube with an acid brush

We used Bimmerlink to active and deactivate the rear electronic parking brake into service mode

We also flushed the brakes and did a few other things

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The hat is covered in oil.
Well that could be years worth of seepage and dust mixed together, I don't know how old these rotors were, I wouldn't think they'd be the original ones that came on the car but they were GM Genuine rotors and they still had the clips on the studs but I wouldn't think any rotors would make it 180k miles.
 
The 2014 Kia Rio with 104,000 miles didn't deserve the good stuff so it got cheap Amazon "MaxAdvanced" rotors and pads, an Amazon caliper because the driver's side rear OEM unit was sticking and eating the inner pad, and I replaced the brake hose and flushed lines while I was at it. The rotors were within runout specs, pads are some sort of ceramic flavor. It was $135 for rotors and pads (Front & Rear), and calipers were $40 each, without a need to return the core. The new hose was $13 each and I cannot complain about fit/finish. I don't know how anyone could afford to manufacture these throw-away parts in the USA.
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2015 Nissan Altima SV 85,000 miles
Off-oem

On-Element 3 coated.

Louisiana and now Massachusetts Weather had taken its toll on them
 

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Every wheel on my wife’s RAV4 had at least one seized caliper pin. I’ve spent the last few days banging them loose and replacing the corroded ones. I managed to snap one off and had to replace the caliper bracket.

Grease those pins every time kids!
 
Maybe this would be a good idea, maybe not


2009 BMW 328i

Off: Unknown, semi metallic dusty pads

On: Raybestos element 3 ceramic, Ultra power wear sensor, and ATE plastilube

Feel: I have only driven a few miles, so they’re not bed in yet, but no squeaking life the previous few pads, and a smooth stop.
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This is a good illustration (pic 2) how German cars use the entire disc surface. There is virtually no lip whatsoever inside, and none on the outside edge. My Lexus has what I refer to as the stripe of shame. At least 1/3” of the rear disc is a rust lip. Pads do not make contact. Fronts have the same but smaller.
 
I don't have pics cause I didn't do the work but I just had OEM pads and new hardware kits installed on the LS460. Rotors resurfaced. The previous dealer did not install the hardware anti rattle kits when they replaced the rear pads. They also changed the brake fluid too. I try to stick to all OEM components on cars but sometimes I break that rule except on brakes. Always OE
 
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2013 Mini Cooper, both front and rear:

off: factory (first) BMW/Mini rotors and brake pads (FF), I don't remember (probably Jurid or Textar)

on: Brembo Xtra rotors (dimpled in this application) and Ferodo Premier Eco Friction pads (GG) with TRW brackets incl. Ate sensors and all new hardware (OE BMW)

Berner Antiseize and Pagid Ceratec (similar to Ate plastilube) used where appropriate.

Why new brackets on all four corners you may ask? To accommodate bigger rotors from Cooper S and JCW respectively.
As a hint to the members: Dimpled Brembo Xtra rotors cause some humming (when applying the brakes harder) just like any drilled rotor. The good news: Dimpled or drilled rotors are at least less annoying as slotted rotors.
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70k miles on factory brakes for the '18 F150. Rear pads down to the backers, fronts almost worn out. Unfortunately, one of the pins was seized while all the rest were perfect. Almost like it didn't get greased on the assembly line. Replaced with Powerstop geomet rotors to help up here in the salt belt and Akebono ASP pads. 2000 miles so far and VERY happy. We'll see how they age.
 
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