Post your latest brake job

Joined
Oct 6, 2020
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2,413
Maybe this would be a good idea, maybe not


2009 BMW 328i

Off: Unknown, semi metallic dusty pads

On: Raybestos element 3 ceramic, Ultra power wear sensor, and ATE plastilube

Feel: I have only driven a few miles, so they’re not bed in yet, but no squeaking life the previous few pads, and a smooth stop.
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Timely. I did my '15 Accord brakes this past weekend.

Out: Centric Premium rotors and ceramic pads which I was more than happy with. I got roughly 45k miles out of them after getting less than 30k out of the OEM parts. All four corners wore perfectly evenly and made no noise through their lifespan, and dust was minimal.

In: PowerStop Evolution coated rotors and Raybestos Element3 pads. I've only had them for a few hundred miles but I like them so far and the Geomet coating looks great.
 
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2008 Trailblazer , I did the rear with Bosch QuietCast coated rotors and QuietCast Ceramic pads about a month ago, had to take them back off today to advance the parking brake shoes that I screwed with trying to track down some griding that was really caused by the backing plates. I'll dig up the pictures later of the hackery I found, at some point the old rotors had pads on them that were hitting mostly on the ID of the rotor on the back side someone slapped new pads over that so the pads I took off have nasty grooves in them because they hit evenly unlike the old pads so the rusty lip ate a grove out of them. The new pads seem to be hitting how they're supposed to.
 
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. I'll dig up the pictures later of the hackery I found, at some point the old rotors had pads on them that were hitting mostly on the ID of the rotor on the back side someone slapped new pads over that so the pads I took off have nasty grooves in them because they hit evenly unlike the old pads so the rusty lip ate a grove out of them. The new pads seem to be hitting how they're supposed to.
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I found it, this is pretty much what the back side of both rotors looked like on the rear as well as the back pads, I don't know what someone did previously to get this kind of uneven wear.
 
I just replaced the pads & rotors on the Altima in my signature using all inventoried closeout parts from RockAuto that they themselves linked to me in an email. I used Raybestos R-Line Rotors F&R and a combo of F: Wagner QS ceramic & R: Centric PQ ceramic brake pads. All shipped to my address for $128.

I have a NYS Inspection coming up and I am also selling/trading in my Altima when our '23 Venza arrives in mid July so, I want the car to be in good shape for sale. I also have a "professional" A/C service for this Altima, this Monday June 26 as I have a leaky schrader valve and loss of refrigerant.

There are few other things that I've replaced(tires, serpentine belt, OE gas cap air/cabin filter) on this car and who ever buys it will get a good car and I'll miss it very much as she has been a spectacular vehicle for > 8 years. But it's time to sell while I can still get decent money for her and she is running perfect and just looks fantastic.
 
No pads, but I did service the Ranger's brake system by flushing through about 1.25 quarts of Bosch ESI6 fluid since it was probably due.

Still trying to decide if I want to use the Bosch fluid across everything after I run through the Valvoline I have left.
 
Replaced the front pads on wife's 15' Audi A4 Quattro in March. Bought TRW ultra low metallic pads. They dust unfortunately but not as bad as other semi metallic pads I've used. The pads are made in Spain. Feel is just like the originals, no more no less.
 
OK, I’m in on this… The Honda Ody is sensitive to any sticking of sliders and calipers, and i was sick of doing half-measure fixes on a nearly 18 yo car with original calipers. So here goes:

Out: Raybestos Element3 pads and rotors on all four corners; original calipers on all four corners. The pads and rotors weren’t that old, but i wanted to start fresh with all components.

In: Raybestos High Carbon disks and Akebono pads on front; Raybestos Element 3 pads and rotors on back; Raybestos Element3 NEW Calipers/Brackets on ALL corners. The old front caliper pistons were sticking a little, the old back calipers were also sticking a bit and the hardware was degrading. So time to go all new.

Notes: van drives and stops much better now. Front Akebonos came with the anti-drag springs, which is probably a good thing to keep the pads away from the disks since this vehicle seems to transmit front suspension/disk runout issues to the steering wheel more than any other car. The new Raybestos calipers/brackets seem to be working quite well, but i was a bit disappointed in the finish quality for a couple reasons. Certainly not the same quality as OEM hardware. Front Raybestos Calipers were made in China. Quite a bit of variability in the aesthetic finish, but i guess the critical interfaces are fine. The rear calipers were made in Korea and seem a bit better quality/consistency. The thing i hated most about these Raybestos calipers was the sloppy fit of the bleeder valves vs. OEM: as soon as you crack open the bleeder, the bleeder nipple wobbles very loosely.

Brake fluid notes: This van was subject to the “Honda’s Idea of a Brake Fluid Flush” which is: suction some out of the MC and fill it back up with new. I believe that the front calipers would have been much better off had the fluid been truly flushed at frequent intervals. The front calipers in particular had stratified layers of brake fluid in them when i took them out. The top layer was nice clean fluid (i did my own brake flush after the Honda Dealer ”flush”), but the fluid sitting around the two pistons on the front calipers was a watery black fluid (absolutely positively didn’t look or flow like brake fluid). You would have to either turn the caliper upside down or push the pistons out to get this small but important volume of nasty fluid out. This stratified layer of nasty fluid is what causes the pistons to get gummed up despite doing a bleeder flush (which is at the top of the caliper). I can say for sure that the nasty fluid and the clean fluid are not miscible!
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You should give your opinion of the new brakes . What model of Raybestos pads are they ?
Yeah I suppose that would have helped :)

Went with the R line Rotors and quick stop ceramic Wagner's. Drove the car about 1500 mi across country last weekend and so far so good! Smooth, quiet and so far no pulsing or anything. The car will be sitting until we get to Phoenix next month I can update more as miles accumulate 👍
 
I have a recent brake job done by a mobile mechanic that I've used for a couple of years for this type of maintenance. Parts came from Auto-Zone and I don't care how good the parts are or how the brakes work. The truck has a parasitic and drains a fully charged battery to below starting power in 2-3 days. I haven't driven it in months.
 
I have a recent brake job done by a mobile mechanic that I've used for a couple of years for this type of maintenance. Parts came from Auto-Zone and I don't care how good the parts are or how the brakes work. The truck has a parasitic and drains a fully charged battery to below starting power in 2-3 days. I haven't driven it in months.
Why would anyone post something like this ?
 
I just replaced the pads & rotors on the Altima in my signature using all inventoried closeout parts from RockAuto that they themselves linked to me in an email. I used Raybestos R-Line Rotors F&R and a combo of F: Wagner QS ceramic & R: Centric PQ ceramic brake pads. All shipped to my address for $128.
Do you have any idea what they would charge to have two Rotors shipped ?
 
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