Short OCI (Less than 2000 miles probably, 1 year), spirited back road driving, then back in the garage. Not a daily driver.
You like B because of the higher TBN I am guessing? A better if used for track use or short OCI?
Porsche GT3 /RS A40 Oil
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Short OCI (Less than 2000 miles probably, 1 year), spirited back road driving, then back in the garage. Not a daily driver.
You like B because of the higher TBN I am guessing? A better if used for track use or short OCI?
1, more moly.Bumping this back up:
Between these two oils, which is the better oil for short change intervals?
Oils are from the same brand. Keep the name out to lower the Bias.
Oil 1 or Oil 2?
Like TiGeo, I'd go for the one with more Molybdenum....assuming the moly is in a fully formulated oil (such as this) and not being added by a shade-tree tribologist. Plus, I like the Boron in number 1.
BITOGers say hold my beer.
For your purposes, none.Bumping this back up:
Between these two oils, which is the better oil for short change intervals?
Oils are from the same brand. Keep the name out to lower the Bias.
Oil 1 or Oil 2?
Honestly this is so silly...I have raced and owned Porsches for 26 years now....We have raced 11 different cars with various motors, both air cooled and water cooled...Currently racing a 991.1 GT3 Cup with the Mezger engine...Our race motors will easily go 12 hours on Motul 300V...easily....could likely double that safely,....these care are raced hard, at redline all weekend. A street car will Never begin to explore the limits of an A40 oil...especially this one. That's not a Dig or criticism, it's a fact. Worry about something else !
Oil 1 is not carrying A40, C40, or any other euro approvals. If you’re going to stray I would pick a proven oil in an engine this expensive. Oil 1 might be the best thing out there but we really have no idea. I’m sure the Porsche community would appreciate you running it for a while and inspecting the cams, but I can’t blame you if you don’t feel like doing thatBumping this back up:
Between these two oils, which is the better oil for short change intervals?
Oils are from the same brand. Keep the name out to lower the Bias.
Oil 1 or Oil 2?
.After doing some reading on Rennlist, I’m not sure any oil will really help if you have a pre-G6 rev engine, but all RS are “fixed”? I’d almost want it to fail as soon as possible to maximize your chance of getting a goodwill engine replacement.
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While I agree with you overall, this is a 9A1 not a Mezger (Cup only in 991 iirc) and it wouldn’t be the first Porsche engine with a design flaw that people are trying to delay via oil choice. Of course, oil rarely works as a band-aid for design flaws, but it can help in some cases.
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Man I love that gear thingy....Just run lucas oil additive, but run it straight, not mixed with any other oil.
I mean that little plastic model with the white gears in it, at the auto parts store doesn't lie.
Great stuff that lucas.
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Garage queen, but driven hard. The purpose of this forum is litterally for people fretting for the type of oil we should use. Expect for fringe applications, any of us could pick a certified oil, and call it a day.
Speaking to a good source, Oil 1 is trying to address similiar issues Oil 2 vehicle was having, except in a different application. Oil 2 was tested in Oil 1 vehicle, and valvetrain wear was unacceptable. As noted in the VOA, Oil 1 has added ZDDP, Moly, and reduced Calcium, all which are focusing on wear protection of the valvetrain, over other elements. Oil 2 is in my current current. If not 1 or 2, then which would you recomend?
The RS issue is multi-layers deep. Fundamentally it has the same finger followers as the GT3, but never occured in the same failure level as GT3, Why? 1. The G6 engine is the final fix from Porsche for the GT3. All RSs have G0 Engine, first half is basically a G6 without DLC Cams, 2nd G0 have the DLC cams (Same as G6). Did the DLC cams fix the issues on the finger follower? 2. RS G0 engines have a lower redline than G6 GT3 3. There are not many RS engines out there, and not many driven high mileage. The ones that are track cars,- mixed reports, some have many miles with no issues, some have issues. Porsche claims it comes down to the metalurgy on the specific FF used. If there are no inclusions there is little wear. Racing shops that do engine tear downs, have argued otherwise.
Garage queen, but driven hard. The purpose of this forum is litterally for people fretting for the type of oil we should use. Expect for fringe applications, any of us could pick a certified oil, and call it a day.
What makes Motul 300V so special? I've looked at the VOA on it, and to me it's very simliar to Oil 1 at half the price. I have attached all 3 now below comparison VOA, with the names.
Oil 1 is not carrying A40, C40, or any other euro approvals. If you’re going to stray I would pick a proven oil in an engine this expensive. Oil 1 might be the best thing out there but we really have no idea. I’m sure the Porsche community would appreciate you running it for a while and inspecting the cams, but I can’t blame you if you don’t feel like doing that
After doing some reading on Rennlist, I’m not sure any oil will really help if you have a pre-G6 rev engine, but all RS are “fixed”? I’d almost want it to fail as soon as possible to maximize your chance of getting a goodwill engine replacement.
Speaking to a good source, Oil 1 is trying to address similiar issues Oil 2 vehicle was having, except in a different application. Oil 2 was tested in Oil 1 vehicle, and valvetrain wear was unacceptable. As noted in the VOA, Oil 1 has added ZDDP, Moly, and reduced Calcium, all which are focusing on wear protection of the valvetrain, over other elements. Oil 2 is in my current current. If not 1 or 2, then which would you recomend?
The RS issue is multi-layers deep. Fundamentally it has the same finger followers as the GT3, but never occured in the same failure level as GT3, Why? 1. The G6 engine is the final fix from Porsche for the GT3. All RSs have G0 Engine, first half is basically a G6 without DLC Cams, 2nd G0 have the DLC cams (Same as G6). Did the DLC cams fix the issues on the finger follower? 2. RS G0 engines have a lower redline than G6 GT3 3. There are not many RS engines out there, and not many driven high mileage. The ones that are track cars,- mixed reports, some have many miles with no issues, some have issues. Porsche claims it comes down to the metalurgy on the specific FF used. If there are no inclusions there is little wear. Racing shops that do engine tear downs, have argued otherwise.
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Well, it has 4x the moly to start, assuming they are the same type. The answer is that a simple VOA is an incomplete picture and many additives will not show up on a VOA. It's virtually impossible to determine if Supercar 5W-50 is going to perform better than 300V, Redline, HPL, Driven, Amsoil, etc. without running it for a long time and tearing the engine down. If anyone has done that on the forums and had good results, I would just run whatever they ran.
Driven hard? What is that? Dropping kids to school, picking up groceries, short commute, is actually harder on oil than driven hard!
Both oils are thick. Why?
300V? You won’t see any difference in VOA. Maybe elevated Zinc. Same goes with HPL. It is base stock, polymers etc.
Dundon Motorsport has done tear down of engines, and actually had in developement replacement after market finger followers. They recomend Amsoil 5w40 Euro or Motul 300V Competition. I asked them, that was their response.
I am tempted to try the Motul 300V next. I have Mobil 1 5W50 FS XS, with maybe 400 miles so far. In the spring at 1000 miles, I may swap to Motul 300V. What's a good OCI interval for 300V? 3,000 miles, change once a year?
Driven on weekend on backroads, many full throttle accelerations to redline through the gears.
That is not driving hard. That is spirited, how Porsche should be driven. Closest minivan to your house has harder life.
Driven hard is when you go to track and abuse vehicle all day, and wondering whether you will have enough pads to finish session.
Ease your mind. Any Porsche A40 will cut it for carving curves, redlining etc.
Did you read the thread or anything about this engine? He’s not here because he’s trying to find an oil for a normal engine, he’s here looking for the best oil to band-aid a potentially flawed design produced in small numbers where data is limited. May not be possible, but it’s not a Mezger and it’s not a “fixed” 9A1 exactly. Many 991.1 GT3 engines had failures simply running an A40 oil. It’s likely no oil will make enough difference here, but his motivation is understandable.
Anecdotally, doing some research on a GT3 RS Facebook Page this past week. There are documented owners with over 30K miles on their engine with no issues. One made it to 55k miles with an oil pressure issue, but not valvetrain related. Replaced the engine at 55k, now as 120k with no further issues, he has run Mobil 1 Ow40. One guy has 33k, and the car is a track car primarly, no issues. Oil use is all over the place. My theory is the finger followers are very variable in their material properties in manufacturing, and due to oiling system limitations on cylinder 5 and 6, win the lottery of finger follower inclusions, and you will have problems. If you get finger followers with no inclusions, you'll probably be ok. A better oil definitely is a secondary factor that may help.
He needs shear stable oil! HPL 5W40 would cut it.
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