Oil prices Syn vs Dino lube

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In looking at prices of syn vs conventional motor oils the price for syn just a few years ago was huge....now ive noticed that conventional motor oil is now more expensive than some of the lower end syn oils and the syn blend looks to be on the way out.
Sure you are better off with dinolube or the syn blend in older cars that have huge cam and crank clearances vs todays modern engines.... that 0w 20 or 5w 20.....
By the looks of it in a few more years syn will be the standard oil and dinolube will be the specialty blend(s) that will cost you much more to buy...plus fed regulations on gas saving oils will drive the price up or down depending on what you buy.
 
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Now that we have so much data from used & virgin oil analysis(UOA& VOA), I will no longer buy a brand name conventional oil that is more money than for example, Walmart* SuperTech full synthetic or other store brand full synthetics such as CarQuest FS from Advance Auto, ProLine FS from PepBoys or where ever your favorite store is.
 
The lines are blurred, Syn is no longer a Majority PAO blend or POE, they are mostly GTL and/or Group III processed crude (zooplankton not Dino) products and/or processed slack wax.
So purchase by the specifications and approvals met, not by Synthetic or Conventional as these are merely advertising terms for Premium or Ultra Premium lubricants. If Your are getting 25-35% better oil performance for 20% more dollars wiith the "Ultra Premium" step up, that sounds like a bargain to me.
 
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What modern engines need 20W-50?
I dont know many engines over the past 50 years that specifiy 20W50 - Except maybe our old Subaru EJ Forester in extreme hot and hard operating conditions. Then there are those built Dune buggy VW boxers out West, Air-cooled H_D motorbikes and similar. I bet certain Nitrous boosted Iron big block with forged pistons and Chrome rings would benefit. Then some BMW sixer's in the process of destroying themselves.
But I'm not telling you anything you don't know.
 
My 1973 Triumph Stag V-8 spec Castrol 20w 50 in hot climates or 10w 40 for normal.....I tried Mobil 1 and it ruined the engine....cams and crank at 25k miles.....back in 1975.
 
My 1973 Triumph Stag V-8 spec Castrol 20w 50 in hot climates or 10w 40 for normal.....I tried Mobil 1 and it ruined the engine....cams and crank at 25k miles.....back in 1975.
Almost happened to me too. Tried it in a Nice running Chevy 2.8 V6 in the early 80's, I did one trip around the block and dumped the stuff at big expense.
I Could hear the racket and felt a big loss of power. So I got it before something went awry.
Likely oil grade more than anything, I think that engine was spec for 10W30 Summer.

Stag is a beautiful car - but that poory engineered new Triumph (not Buick) V8 was destined to die regardless of lubricant
 
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More details
Mobil 1 had just came out and Stag v-8's were prone to "over heating" would be putting it mildly....The mechanic at the dealer told me about this new "wonder oil" that was syn that is thinner caused less friction kept the engine running cooler. etc......i bought into the hype....he was thinking it would provide better lubrication etc...but forgot that most all cars back then had huge gap's by today's standards in the crankshaft and cam that needed the thinker oil to keep it from going to metal on metal....British cars were no exception and were in most accounts much worse than Ford or Chevy.....the crank i think was the first to hit metal and made this God awful sound.....To make the long story story short they stopped using Mobil 1......and I got a new engine out it....but took almost 4 months....lucky I still had my trusty 73 Datsun truck.
I learned the hard way with Brit cars.....the only reason i wanted it so much was in Diamonds are Forever JB drove a yellow Stag across the channel on the hovercraft......I could not afford a DB5 but i could a Stag!....This was back in High School days.
I didn't loose to much money he i sold it....I had bought it used in 74 with about 8k miles with two tops and elec overdrive option. It was a real babe magnet in school. BTW....fast forward 46 years.....Ive never used Mobil 1 again in any of my cars.
 
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Way too much info.

It wasn’t the oil that destroyed the engine, it was a crappy engine to begin with.
Sorry....somebody wanted detail....cant please everyone....yes...it was a crappy engine....but when it ran it sure sounded good....although in the UK there are many Stags still running 45 plus years with the same 3.0 crappy engine.
 
Was the M1 you used the 5W20 one? My hypothesis,wrong oil for this particular engine. One of those “classic car” type oils would be good for that car in today’s world imo.
 
Many years ago I think there was a 20W50 spec Jag that someone used either 0W or 5W20 in it and it ruined the engine. Was so long ago that I don’t remember the details of the post.
 
In looking at prices of syn vs conventional motor oils the price for syn just a few years ago was huge....now ive noticed that conventional motor oil is now more expensive than some of the lower end syn oils and the syn blend looks to be on the way out.
Sure you are better off with dinolube or the syn blend in older cars that have huge cam and crank clearances vs todays modern engines.... that 0w 20 or 5w 20.....
By the looks of it in a few more years syn will be the standard oil and dinolube will be the specialty blend(s) that will cost you much more to buy...plus fed regulations on gas saving oils will drive the price up or down depending on what you buy.
Which older cars? I use strictly synthetic oil for last 25-26 years.
 
My 1973 Triumph Stag V-8 spec Castrol 20w 50 in hot climates or 10w 40 for normal.....I tried Mobil 1 and it ruined the engine....cams and crank at 25k miles.....back in 1975.
Surely this rig had an oil pressure gauge. Do you remember how much it fell off?
 
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