Oil for 2003 Camry and general maintenance/repair?

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ITT: 5 straight posts of E20 talking to himself
crazy2.gif
 
For the trans case leaking, I heard JB weld would work, or jb weld original, which i got for sale at kmart, but what about jb weld steelstix, and i see locktite and other brands have a jb weld imiation, but is jb weld the best?

I also heard, that since it's just a small dripping, I can use RTV, so shoudl i just use the black harbor freight rtv to stop the trans case leak, or is it better to use jb weld? Thanks.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5t...trans-case.html

This is where RTV was mentioned, he has my same camry with slightly higher miles.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
For the trans case leaking, I heard JB weld would work, or jb weld original, which i got for sale at kmart, but what about jb weld steelstix, and i see locktite and other brands have a jb weld imiation, but is jb weld the best?

I also heard, that since it's just a small dripping, I can use RTV, so shoudl i just use the black harbor freight rtv to stop the trans case leak, or is it better to use jb weld? Thanks.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5t...trans-case.html

This is where RTV was mentioned, he has my same camry with slightly higher miles.


You hear a lot of things. Might want to get that checked out.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
For the trans case leaking, I heard JB weld would work, or jb weld original, which i got for sale at kmart, but what about jb weld steelstix, and i see locktite and other brands have a jb weld imiation, but is jb weld the best?

I also heard, that since it's just a small dripping, I can use RTV, so shoudl i just use the black harbor freight rtv to stop the trans case leak, or is it better to use jb weld? Thanks.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5t...trans-case.html

This is where RTV was mentioned, he has my same camry with slightly higher miles.


We don't know what would work because each case leak is different. If I were you I'd start with the cheapest one and see how it goes, or just ignore it for a 2003 in Michigan, and keep topping off the fluid before it gets too low.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
The toyta dealer wants 50+ dollars for the trans filter and 3 dollars for the gasket, what about a ix 28.99 one? the wix 18.99 one is junk and has a [censored] gasket, as well as the powertorque one, but what about the higher quality 28.99 one? they sell wix on rockauto too and no oem, it's also aftermarket similarly priced in the 20s range.


Look, auto parts probably only cost $5 to make and $5 to stock in a warehouse / parts store and $10 for the sales staff and loan interest on the inventory before it is sold.

The only way to find out whether a part is good or bad is to look on forums and see what people doing this for a living have used and whether it last or not, or pay up and buy a known reputable brand / model line, that means OEM, Fel Pro, Victor Reinz, ROK, etc. There might be more, but I don't know all of them.

Wix filter is good, I haven't used their gasket but as you see their $29 one is good, then it is good.
 
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Originally Posted By: engineer20
the noise, slight roar is coming from the left side, so it's a left wheel beraing, or is it opposite to where the noise is cominng from? Thanks.


Bearing noise don't bounce to the other side of the wheel and come back to your ear, so yes it is the left (if you described your problem correctly).
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
and when I bring my control amrs in (bushing looks similar to one above) and have the shop replace them with the moogs i bought, I might as well bring in my steering knuckle? If I bring in the steering knuckel, and the shop can remove/press in my new bearing, I don'tn eed the hole hub assembly, and just pay them for some press labor, like 1 hr or maybe even under, but 1 hr max, and then I put the steering knuckle in myself, so I can cahnge the left wheel bearing, in an easy manner, paying the shop a little, meanwhile, saving a little on labor by removing/installing the steering knuckle myself, so i odn't have to pay the shop the full labor rate, and natioanl wheel bearings aer good? better than moog? they don't sell timken ones seperately and i thin just the bearing alone without the hub is cheaper and better since my hub may be fine


That's what we have been saying all along. Why don't you ask the shop what bearing brand is good and pay up?
 
just get a national wheel bearing from aap with 20 dollars off with speedperks, and that shop will press in the new bearing'/take the old one out if i remove the knuckle for 50 dollars and 25 each to remove/press in each control arm bushing, so that's not bad, as if u don't remove the knuckle, it's like 200 ish in labor for the wheel bearing
 
any tips for a stuck oil filter? in the past, the guy said use an oil filter wrench (pliers) if the cap doesn't work. The plastic pennzoil cap I have, broke yesterday, as in it rounded, (the part where you put in the ratchet, plastic got removed from there, so it's > 3/8 drive in reality not because some plastic came off and it didn't spin), so then I tried the oil filter wrench, it didn't work either, punctured the oil filter, and oil dripped out, but it wouldn't work, now, i tried in multiple spots, but it just wouldn't come off, what advice do you have with this? is this car safe to drive? my plan is add in the 4+ quarts of oil, and take it to a nearby quick lube (liek 3-4 miles away) but if the quick lube dosn't work, I can call a tow truck? the tow truck company will tow me to a place about 5 miles away, so within the aaa radius, i can use a aaa service call for free, and if the quick lube can't remove the oil filter, i can go to the tow truck place, as they're a repair faciility and an indy mechanic shop too. So ateempt to drive to the nearby quick lube, or is it unlikely thye'll be able to remove the filter, and just call the towtruck and have their facility work on it since thye're a shop with more equipment? i punctured it and now the filter is "pinched in" at multiple locations, isnt't this unsafe to drive since there wont' be any oil pressure with the filter liek this, or is it ok for a short drive, or will i damage my engine? oil is coming out of the filter, but the filter only has so much and it's dripping/not coming out quickly, so if i fill my engine /pan with the 4+ quarts, and like mechanic, but is it safe to do so with a punctured filter, because the filter provides oil pressure and with a damaged filter, you won't have that oil pressure! any opinions? thanks. so i'll know what to do next, tmrw morning.
 
i rtv'ed the trans case with black rtv on the outside, shoudld i have used red, since the rtv/stuff i see coming out is red, but it coudl've became red beacuse trans fluid is red
or is black rtv ok? and is black rtv ok to replace the trans pan gasket when i drop the pan, or no? Thanks.

the stab link won't come off in the front because i bent it, the nut will easily move, but i roudded the hex, and the whoel threads is pointed downwards/bent downwards

will an angle grinder be able to chop it off? Thanks. and i see the bottom ball joint of that front left stab link is leaking grease, but not the top one, and the control arm bushing looked similar to that in the picture, not broken or anything but many mini tears beginning.
 
how are nsk wheel bearings? advance auto also has that option, but it's factory direct, and its' under their (forgot what it's called all of a sudden) oh yeah, worldpac or soemthing, is an nsk wheel bearing better than a natioanl because now, i figure, just remove my steering knuckel and go to that shop to press it in for 50, a junkyard steering knuckel isn't that much cheaper, 30+ at a u pull it and still like 60-80 at a "on the shelf" junkyard
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
any tips for a stuck oil filter? in the past, the guy said use an oil filter wrench (pliers) if the cap doesn't work. The plastic pennzoil cap I have, broke yesterday, as in it rounded, (the part where you put in the ratchet, plastic got removed from there, so it's > 3/8 drive in reality not because some plastic came off and it didn't spin), so then I tried the oil filter wrench, it didn't work either, punctured the oil filter, and oil dripped out, but it wouldn't work, now, i tried in multiple spots, but it just wouldn't come off, what advice do you have with this? is this car safe to drive? my plan is add in the 4+ quarts of oil, and take it to a nearby quick lube (liek 3-4 miles away) but if the quick lube dosn't work, I can call a tow truck? the tow truck company will tow me to a place about 5 miles away, so within the aaa radius, i can use a aaa service call for free, and if the quick lube can't remove the oil filter, i can go to the tow truck place, as they're a repair faciility and an indy mechanic shop too. So ateempt to drive to the nearby quick lube, or is it unlikely thye'll be able to remove the filter, and just call the towtruck and have their facility work on it since thye're a shop with more equipment? i punctured it and now the filter is "pinched in" at multiple locations, isnt't this unsafe to drive since there wont' be any oil pressure with the filter liek this, or is it ok for a short drive, or will i damage my engine? oil is coming out of the filter, but the filter only has so much and it's dripping/not coming out quickly, so if i fill my engine /pan with the 4+ quarts, and like mechanic, but is it safe to do so with a punctured filter, because the filter provides oil pressure and with a damaged filter, you won't have that oil pressure! any opinions? thanks. so i'll know what to do next, tmrw morning.

crazy2.gif
As soon as you start the engine, oil is going to gush out of those holes in the filter. Even if you filled the engine with oil, it will all be gone in less than a mile. Tow it to a repair shop.
 
I am assuming E20 is not really as dumb as he sounds when he is asking if he can drive with punctured oil filter. But if he is, then definitely he should drive like that. This will stop him posting any further questions on his 2003 Camry as it would be dead completely.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I am assuming E20 is not really as dumb as he sounds when he is asking if he can drive with punctured oil filter. But if he is, then definitely he should drive like that. This will stop him posting any further questions on his 2003 Camry as it would be dead completely.
Lol that's exactly what I was going to say, drive it! Then the motor will lock up and you don't have to worry about the car anymore!
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I am assuming E20 is not really as dumb as he sounds when he is asking if he can drive with punctured oil filter. But if he is, then definitely he should drive like that. This will stop him posting any further questions on his 2003 Camry as it would be dead completely.


Nothing will stop him except intervention by the moderators.
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I am assuming E20 is not really as dumb as he sounds when he is asking if he can drive with punctured oil filter. But if he is, then definitely he should drive like that. This will stop him posting any further questions on his 2003 Camry as it would be dead completely.


Nothing will stop him except intervention by the moderators.


Yep - let E20 lock his motor and the mods lock this thread.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I am assuming E20 is not really as dumb as he sounds when he is asking if he can drive with punctured oil filter. But if he is, then definitely he should drive like that. This will stop him posting any further questions on his 2003 Camry as it would be dead completely.

Then he'll just go back to asking nonsensical questions about his Taurus with the shoddy brakes and God knows what else. Dude's a troll to the nth degree.
 
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Originally Posted By: mclasser
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I am assuming E20 is not really as dumb as he sounds when he is asking if he can drive with punctured oil filter. But if he is, then definitely he should drive like that. This will stop him posting any further questions on his 2003 Camry as it would be dead completely.

Then he'll just go back to asking nonsensical questions about his Taurus with the shoddy brakes and God knows what else.


thumbsup2.gif


looking forward to those posts
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
any tips for a stuck oil filter? in the past, the guy said use an oil filter wrench (pliers) if the cap doesn't work. The plastic pennzoil cap I have, broke yesterday, as in it rounded, (the part where you put in the ratchet, plastic got removed from there, so it's > 3/8 drive in reality not because some plastic came off and it didn't spin), so then I tried the oil filter wrench, it didn't work either, punctured the oil filter, and oil dripped out, but it wouldn't work, now, i tried in multiple spots, but it just wouldn't come off, what advice do you have with this? is this car safe to drive? my plan is add in the 4+ quarts of oil, and take it to a nearby quick lube (liek 3-4 miles away) but if the quick lube dosn't work, I can call a tow truck? the tow truck company will tow me to a place about 5 miles away, so within the aaa radius, i can use a aaa service call for free, and if the quick lube can't remove the oil filter, i can go to the tow truck place, as they're a repair faciility and an indy mechanic shop too. So ateempt to drive to the nearby quick lube, or is it unlikely thye'll be able to remove the filter, and just call the towtruck and have their facility work on it since thye're a shop with more equipment? i punctured it and now the filter is "pinched in" at multiple locations, isnt't this unsafe to drive since there wont' be any oil pressure with the filter liek this, or is it ok for a short drive, or will i damage my engine? oil is coming out of the filter, but the filter only has so much and it's dripping/not coming out quickly, so if i fill my engine /pan with the 4+ quarts, and like mechanic, but is it safe to do so with a punctured filter, because the filter provides oil pressure and with a damaged filter, you won't have that oil pressure! any opinions? thanks. so i'll know what to do next, tmrw morning.


Tow it.

How did you puncture a filter? I have been using a filter cap for 20 years and have never been able to puncture it. If a plastic cap doesn't work use a metal one, dealer sells it and many parts store do too.

Filter has instruction on it to tell you how much to turn, usually around 3/4 turn when the gasket first touch the engine. You should never try to grip so hard that you pinch the filter.

Originally Posted By: engineer20
i rtv'ed the trans case with black rtv on the outside, shoudld i have used red, since the rtv/stuff i see coming out is red, but it coudl've became red beacuse trans fluid is red
or is black rtv ok? and is black rtv ok to replace the trans pan gasket when i drop the pan, or no? Thanks.

the stab link won't come off in the front because i bent it, the nut will easily move, but i roudded the hex, and the whoel threads is pointed downwards/bent downwards

will an angle grinder be able to chop it off? Thanks. and i see the bottom ball joint of that front left stab link is leaking grease, but not the top one, and the control arm bushing looked similar to that in the picture, not broken or anything but many mini tears beginning.


The job of the RTV is to seal, if you can't see between RTV vs ATF you should just clean it up and see where it is from, or add a florescent dye to the ATF and use a black light to see where it is leaking.

Stop messing with the link if it is bent and rounded, ask the shop to fix your mess for you and pay up, before you get yourself into an accident or damage more parts.

Live and learn.
 
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