Oil for 2003 Camry and general maintenance/repair?

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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
What were e20's demands that Toyota said were unreasonable? Enquiring minds want to know!
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I'll quote below what his post was about being banned from the Toyota dealership, it was in his other thread that got locked the other day.

He threw a fit that after they do a free inspection with his $15 oil change that they leave his car running so that it doesn't put wear and tear on his starter LOL

Originally Posted By: engineer20
I got banned from a toyota dealer today. I made an appointment with Page Toyota Southfield today for them to do a multi point inspection and possibly a 14.95 oil change which they had, but when I came in today, they said they won't do the inspection for free without the oil change. I called in and made an appointment, and then, they said I'd have to do an oil change and it's now 29.95 and the 14.95 which they had for years is GONE now. I was like, fine, since they did a fine job at inspecting my car last time in August. I went in November, before closing time and they looked at my car for like 10 minutes, so that didn't count, but today, they were like no, and I was like, fine, but then I made a request to please leave the car running after they finish with the service and it's in the parking lot. It makes no sense and damages the starter, for them to start your car after their service, and then turn it off, and hand you the key, and then you turn on the car to leave the lot, that puts wear/tear on the vehicle with 2 start/stop cycles in such a short period of time. At Belle Tire, the other toyotas, the indy shops, I tell thme, to leave it running after i'm done, and they're like ok, but they argued with me and said no, what if the car is stolen, blah blah blah, and I told them it's cuz i odn't wnat to put extra wear/tear on my starter, as I was like, last year my starter went out and it was a nightmare. Instead of being nice and undersatnding, they were totla aye-holes about it and very ayn-nul about it and then I was like ok. And when I pulled my car in, the car was running. THen, I was like, wahtever, just do what you do and I said in a whiny, ppisssseed voice and I didn't swear or say any bad words, I was just like "so you're going to turn my car on and off twice so you can put wear and tear on my starter, resulting in my starter eventually going bad faster than it could've gone bad, so i can come back and have you replace my starter" I think they misunderstood me, there was a misundersatnding, they thought I meant they were going to cause damage to my starter and that wasn't my point, I meant, more wear and tear, I know it's hihgly unlikely starting/stopping in their lot twice will make my starter go out this instant, since it's a 90k junkyard starter that's still pretty strong and I got only half a year ago, and it's denso, BUT it puts wear and tear on it, and in the heat of the moment, I was cofused and didnt' know how to explain it, and then he was like "we're not gonna put in a starter for free"

they totally misundeerstood me, I edidn't mean that, i meant, they start/stop our vehicles and won't keep it running after it's done, (most places are OK with this and don't hand me the keys upon request and leave the keys running in the car when they're done, but these aye-holls had to do what they did, and then the service manager came out and said, we're not doing the oil change or inspecting your car, wnever come back, we're banning you, if you come back, regardless of paying, or anytying, we won't allow you to come back, if you come back, we won't do anything, and if we can't get you away, we'll call the authorities (police, presumably), they didn't call the police, I just left, but was kind of p-ed off at their treatment of me, and baning me just because of a daarrned start issue. dang...
 
The dealer is there to make money, and if you are deemed as a lawsuit risk or deadbeat, they can refuse to service you. Now if they charged you for something they didn't deliver that's a different story, but they can always issue you a refund and tell you not to come back again. It is perfectly legal and acceptable.
 
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
The dealer is there to make money, and if you are deemed as a lawsuit risk or deadbeat, they can refuse to service you. Now if they charged you for something they didn't deliver that's a different story, but they can always issue you a refund and tell you not to come back again. It is perfectly legal and acceptable.


There's usually a pretty standard sign in many restaurants that say we can refuse to serve anyone for any reason. A dealership is a private business, they don't have to do business with you if they feel it isn't worth it.

The OP is just completely clueless or something else. No one actually does their 21 point inspection. Like around here we have an annual inspection sticker and to do it properly, the station is supposed to take 45 minutes to check all the components. It never takes more than 5-10 minutes for them to give me a sticker once they get it in the stall and 1 minute of that is just scraping off the old sticker and putting on a new one. No station that does inspections actually takes the requisite amount of time to do a full inspection.
 
whatever, I'll go to another dealer, the issue is, they told me not to come back anywyere, including parts, so now, it'll be hard to get these oem parts everyone on this site wants me to get.

I ordered some wix trans filters from oreilly's, one was 18.99 and the other was 28.99 and the dealership one is almost 40, is the oem trans filter worth it or is a 28.99 trans filter good enough as I want to drop my trans pan soon, as well as jb weld that case to temporarily stop the leaking/seeping.

And thanks for the advice on oils. I see castrol now has a high mileage synthetic oil, sold at walmart, is that any good? What about vaovline maxlife (either syn blend or syn?) or just use some havoline dino oil and that might take are of the leaks? A timing chain cover leak (you could see it from the old oil pan, not so much the new one, but the area near the filter, on the pan, had a sticky resideue caked on, and I heard that's indeed indicative of a timing chain cover leak)
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
whatever, I'll go to another dealer, the issue is, they told me not to come back anywyere, including parts, so now, it'll be hard to get these oem parts everyone on this site wants me to get.

I ordered some wix trans filters from oreilly's, one was 18.99 and the other was 28.99 and the dealership one is almost 40, is the oem trans filter worth it or is a 28.99 trans filter good enough as I want to drop my trans pan soon, as well as jb weld that case to temporarily stop the leaking/seeping.

And thanks for the advice on oils. I see castrol now has a high mileage synthetic oil, sold at walmart, is that any good? What about vaovline maxlife (either syn blend or syn?) or just use some havoline dino oil and that might take are of the leaks? A timing chain cover leak (you could see it from the old oil pan, not so much the new one, but the area near the filter, on the pan, had a sticky resideue caked on, and I heard that's indeed indicative of a timing chain cover leak)


Most likely, You got banned from the Service Department, Unless you like to go stupid at the Parts Counter also?

Go with the cheapest stuff, From what I have read, Your car is a piece of [censored]. JB-weld...Really? I cant think of a proper use for it.

Your Starter thing is beyond weird, It is no else's fault YOU installed a used starter and now worry about wear & lifespan. Don't burden others with your OCD/weird/crazy [censored].

Denso starters are so well engineered, Most only need Contacts put in them (A $10 part).
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
whatever, I'll go to another dealer, the issue is, they told me not to come back anywyere, including parts, so now, it'll be hard to get these oem parts everyone on this site wants me to get.

I ordered some wix trans filters from oreilly's, one was 18.99 and the other was 28.99 and the dealership one is almost 40, is the oem trans filter worth it or is a 28.99 trans filter good enough as I want to drop my trans pan soon, as well as jb weld that case to temporarily stop the leaking/seeping.

And thanks for the advice on oils. I see castrol now has a high mileage synthetic oil, sold at walmart, is that any good? What about vaovline maxlife (either syn blend or syn?) or just use some havoline dino oil and that might take are of the leaks? A timing chain cover leak (you could see it from the old oil pan, not so much the new one, but the area near the filter, on the pan, had a sticky resideue caked on, and I heard that's indeed indicative of a timing chain cover leak)


You just mail order the parts. Either rockauto, Amazon or a site that discounts OEM Toyota parts.

It was a total wack job to get a used starter and then tell people not to use your starter too much. You don't use junkyard parts for things like starters, water pumps, alternators, struts, brakes, basically any wear item. Junkyard parts are good for body items, and major items like engines/transmission. You're the only person I've heard of that was thrown out of a store. It's a major badge of dishonor.

At the age of your car, the oil doesn't really matter. Just take it to a quick change place that offers some $15-$20 oil change special.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359

It was a total wack job to get a used starter and then tell people not to use your starter too much.
You don't use junkyard parts for things like starters, water pumps, alternators, struts, brakes, basically any wear item. Junkyard parts are good for body items, and major items like engines/transmission. You're the only person I've heard of that was thrown out of a store. It's a major badge of dishonor.

At the age of your car, the oil doesn't really matter. Just take it to a quick change place that offers some $15-$20 oil change special.


I agree. I can't hardly remember the last time I had to change a starter. Probably back in the early 90's.

What next? Telling the dealer - don't use the brakes because it will wear the pads and/or shoes? Maybe ask them to push the car around so they don't wear out the ignition switch prematurely? (End sarcasm). PLEASE! Somebody needs to get a life and some serious help!

Maybe he should get rid of the car and take public transportation.
 
engineer20, i humbly request you start a youtube channel documenting your life journey with automotive repair. others have done it and you will get an excellent payout from your mechanic friends.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Originally Posted By: oldmaninsc
Maybe he should get rid of the computer.


There, that's better.

BC.
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Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
engineer20, i humbly request you start a youtube channel documenting your life journey with automotive repair. others have done it and you will get an excellent payout from your mechanic friends.

I'd watch that!
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
whatever, I'll go to another dealer, the issue is, they told me not to come back anywyere, including parts, so now, it'll be hard to get these oem parts everyone on this site wants me to get.


Buy online and pay shipping.

Quote:
I ordered some wix trans filters from oreilly's, one was 18.99 and the other was 28.99 and the dealership one is almost 40, is the oem trans filter worth it or is a 28.99 trans filter good enough as I want to drop my trans pan soon, as well as jb weld that case to temporarily stop the leaking/seeping.


Don't know, you have to see the part in person to tell, and do you have time and want to take a chance?

Quote:
And thanks for the advice on oils. I see castrol now has a high mileage synthetic oil, sold at walmart, is that any good? What about vaovline maxlife (either syn blend or syn?) or just use some havoline dino oil and that might take are of the leaks? A timing chain cover leak (you could see it from the old oil pan, not so much the new one, but the area near the filter, on the pan, had a sticky resideue caked on, and I heard that's indeed indicative of a timing chain cover leak)


You have an old car, leak is normal. You can either pay the time and labor and parts to fix it, keep adding oil and ignore it, or try high mileage or thicker oil and see if any works.

Nobody knows how they will work until you try it for yourself and see. If it still leaks, at least you are not out of the money by too much (compare to the cheapest oil you can find).
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
fwiw my dad got the new 2.5L in his 2013 Camry. That newly designed engine was supposed to replace the oil burning, head bolt stripping 2.4L I have. Nope the burning is still there. my dad's Camry w/ 28000 burns a quart of oil every 5K. Toyota now specifies a 10000 mile OCI so expect another Toyota sludge like lawsuit coming from people that ran out of oil during the interval.
The I4 in my 1999 Camry burns about a pint in 5K, and is currently at 345,000 miles. Mostly T6 and Pure 1 filters. Those "tears" really caused a lot of wear.

Wish I would have known your tricks to success back then.. run 5w40 deisel 18 wheeler engine oil and filters with holes in them..
 
the 28.99 wix seriously looks good, and that's from oreilly. aren't wix oil filters excellent? so shouldn't their trans and air filters, etc be good too, or no? anybody here try a wix trans filter or no?
 
This was an 02 camry bushing from the junkyard that was crushed, for the control arm, is this normal? it was angled down, as was mine and seemed stretched and you can see little tears.
tThe new moogs were perfectly round.

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and when I bring my control amrs in (bushing looks similar to one above) and have the shop replace them with the moogs i bought, I might as well bring in my steering knuckle? If I bring in the steering knuckel, and the shop can remove/press in my new bearing, I don'tn eed the hole hub assembly, and just pay them for some press labor, like 1 hr or maybe even under, but 1 hr max, and then I put the steering knuckle in myself, so I can cahnge the left wheel bearing, in an easy manner, paying the shop a little, meanwhile, saving a little on labor by removing/installing the steering knuckle myself, so i odn't have to pay the shop the full labor rate, and natioanl wheel bearings aer good? better than moog? they don't sell timken ones seperately and i thin just the bearing alone without the hub is cheaper and better since my hub may be fine
 
the noise, slight roar is coming from the left side, so it's a left wheel beraing, or is it opposite to where the noise is cominng from? Thanks.
 
The toyta dealer wants 50+ dollars for the trans filter and 3 dollars for the gasket, what about a ix 28.99 one? the wix 18.99 one is junk and has a [censored] gasket, as well as the powertorque one, but what about the higher quality 28.99 one? they sell wix on rockauto too and no oem, it's also aftermarket similarly priced in the 20s range.
 
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