New Quaker State Ultimate Protection

Are you blaming the engine problems on the oil, and specifically the viscosity that you ran? What oil and viscosity did you use in those engines? What were the operating conditions?
No it wasn't oil related. Had mpgs drop at 2k miles. Changed the factory fill to PP 0W20. There was a lot of metal in the oil and chunks of rod bearing in the filter. About 500 miles later it started knocking. Engine was replaced under warranty at around 3k miles. The dealer did a short block replacement. They pinched some gaskets putting the new engine together and that caused oil leaks. That was all fixed by about 4k miles. The head gasket blew around 5 or 6k miles. We traded it after it was warranty fixed on a 2020 Hybrid Highlander that had a lot of electrical issues the dealership couldn't or wouldn't fix. Traded it for a Kia Sedona. That was my first two Toyotas. Will never buy another one.
 
False. Oil viscosities are recommendations. If a manufacturer denies a claim they’re supposed to have to prove your item caused the failure.
Mobil puts this on their website so it must not be completely false

Mobil 1 FAQ's

Will the use of Mobil 1 void my new car warranty?
With the exception of the Mazda rotary engine (Mazda does not recommend any synthetic oils), Mobil 1 will not void new‐car warranties where an American Petroleum Institute (API) certified oil is recommended. Mobil 1 meets or exceeds API and International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) motor oil service requirements of all new‐car manufacturers, both import and domestic. If in doubt, always check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.
 
Mobil puts this on their website so it must not be completely false

Mobil 1 FAQ's

Will the use of Mobil 1 void my new car warranty?
With the exception of the Mazda rotary engine (Mazda does not recommend any synthetic oils), Mobil 1 will not void new‐car warranties where an American Petroleum Institute (API) certified oil is recommended. Mobil 1 meets or exceeds API and International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) motor oil service requirements of all new‐car manufacturers, both import and domestic. If in doubt, always check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.

Mag-Moss covers us for factory warranties. If the lifters/cams on my Hemi go kaput during the factory warranty, they need to prove the oil and/or filter was the reason. Granted, they have more $$ and better lawyers than I do, so if they really pressed the issue I might be SOL, regardless of if I used the exact oil they spec. OTOH, I don't trust the dealer changing my oil, so its a dilemma. In the case of the RAM they have that Chrysler spec you need to live by. I honestly have no idea if the dealer is really using Chrysler spec oil...of course they say you are getting PYB, PP, PUP, etc but who knows whats in the drums.

Extended warranties are a different story. I have MaxCare Lifetime on my RAM, and fully expect a whole load of BS if I ever have to use it for something major (though I got no grief or questions when the fuel level sensor died..."$900.00" fix for cost of deductible which is $100)
 
Mag-Moss covers us for factory warranties. If the lifters/cams on my Hemi go kaput during the factory warranty, they need to prove the oil and/or filter was the reason. Granted, they have more $$ and better lawyers than I do, so if they really pressed the issue I might be SOL, regardless of if I used the exact oil they spec. OTOH, I don't trust the dealer changing my oil, so its a dilemma. In the case of the RAM they have that Chrysler spec you need to live by. I honestly have no idea if the dealer is really using Chrysler spec oil...of course they say you are getting PYB, PP, PUP, etc but who knows whats in the drums.

Extended warranties are a different story. I have MaxCare Lifetime on my RAM, and fully expect a whole load of BS if I ever have to use it for something major (though I got no grief or questions when the fuel level sensor died..."$900.00" fix for cost of deductible which is $100)
Aftermarket warranty company’s are a joke
My son bought a used Mustang from a Ford dealer and purchased an aftermarket warranty
No long after his purchase he installed true dual exhaust
During his warranty period the trans goes out
He makes a claim
Claim was denied because the dual exhaust caused the trans failure !!😳😳😳
 
Aftermarket warranty company’s are a joke
My son bought a used Mustang from a Ford dealer and purchased an aftermarket warranty
No long after his purchase he installed true dual exhaust
During his warranty period the trans goes out
He makes a claim
Claim was denied because the dual exhaust caused the trans failure !!😳😳😳
Just out of curiosity, when you say aftermarket warranty, are you referring to something other than Ford's ESP plan?
 
Aftermarket warranty company’s are a joke
My son bought a used Mustang from a Ford dealer and purchased an aftermarket warranty
No long after his purchase he installed true dual exhaust
During his warranty period the trans goes out
He makes a claim
Claim was denied because the dual exhaust caused the trans failure !!😳😳😳

I agree! I told myself if I were to buy an extended warranty, it would only be through Mopar.

When it came down to it, my miles-per-year kinda dictated either the Lifetime plan or none at all (About 6K miles per year, the year/mileage extended warranties would run out of time LONG before the miles because the "years" start when the factory warranty starts, so Lifetime was the only "good" choice if I wanted one)

Buying online the MaxCare Lifetime warranty with 100.00 deductible was $2600. Between the possible cam/lifter issues, expensive 8 speed ZF transmission and numerous "expensive" computer modules, I bought the warranty.

The fuel level sensor (of all things...when was the last time you had that happen?) died a few months ago. For $100 the dealer replaced the whole fuel sending unit (sensors, pump, etc). Would have been about a $900.00 fix, so Im now at about $1700 paid for the warranty.

And since the dealer did it, AFAIK that instance is covered for 12 months/12K miles so if it dies again I dont even have to pay the deductible.

Would I buy it again? Not sure. Mopar discontinued the lifetime plan shortly after I bought it. Ive heard they may bring it back in the future, but Im guessing it will be a lot more expensive. My actual dealer tried to sell me a year-based MaxCare plan for almost 5K so 2600 for Lifetime was a bargain IMHO.
 
No it wasn't oil related. Had mpgs drop at 2k miles. Changed the factory fill to PP 0W20. There was a lot of metal in the oil and chunks of rod bearing in the filter. About 500 miles later it started knocking. Engine was replaced under warranty at around 3k miles. The dealer did a short block replacement. They pinched some gaskets putting the new engine together and that caused oil leaks. That was all fixed by about 4k miles. The head gasket blew around 5 or 6k miles. We traded it after it was warranty fixed on a 2020 Hybrid Highlander that had a lot of electrical issues the dealership couldn't or wouldn't fix. Traded it for a Kia Sedona. That was my first two Toyotas. Will never buy another one.
That all sounds like mostly the dealer's fault, not Toyota. Just replacing the short block is basically rebuilding the engine, so they're going to do that as quickly/cheaply as possible. Pinched some gaskets, screwed up head gaskets... When a new car needs a new engine, the only choices should be either replacing the whole engine, or the whole car.
 
I agree! I told myself if I were to buy an extended warranty, it would only be through Mopar.

When it came down to it, my miles-per-year kinda dictated either the Lifetime plan or none at all (About 6K miles per year, the year/mileage extended warranties would run out of time LONG before the miles because the "years" start when the factory warranty starts, so Lifetime was the only "good" choice if I wanted one)

Buying online the MaxCare Lifetime warranty with 100.00 deductible was $2600. Between the possible cam/lifter issues, expensive 8 speed ZF transmission and numerous "expensive" computer modules, I bought the warranty.

The fuel level sensor (of all things...when was the last time you had that happen?) died a few months ago. For $100 the dealer replaced the whole fuel sending unit (sensors, pump, etc). Would have been about a $900.00 fix, so Im now at about $1700 paid for the warranty.

And since the dealer did it, AFAIK that instance is covered for 12 months/12K miles so if it dies again I dont even have to pay the deductible.

Would I buy it again? Not sure. Mopar discontinued the lifetime plan shortly after I bought it. Ive heard they may bring it back in the future, but Im guessing it will be a lot more expensive. My actual dealer tried to sell me a year-based MaxCare plan for almost 5K so 2600 for Lifetime was a bargain IMHO.
I've got a lifetime warranty from Jeep on my 08 Wrangler. They replaced a transmission, water pump, and re-sealed the rear differential cover (leak) even though I have lifted it, put an axle back exhaust on it, and am running larger than stock tires. No questions asked. So I bought a lifetime warranty from Jeep again on my 2018, which they no longer offer, and it covers much more than just the powertrain.

If the price is good, I might add this new QS to my 0w20 stash. The PDS looks good, to me.
 
No it wasn't oil related. Had mpgs drop at 2k miles. Changed the factory fill to PP 0W20. There was a lot of metal in the oil and chunks of rod bearing in the filter. About 500 miles later it started knocking. Engine was replaced under warranty at around 3k miles. The dealer did a short block replacement. They pinched some gaskets putting the new engine together and that caused oil leaks. That was all fixed by about 4k miles. The head gasket blew around 5 or 6k miles. We traded it after it was warranty fixed on a 2020 Hybrid Highlander that had a lot of electrical issues the dealership couldn't or wouldn't fix. Traded it for a Kia Sedona. That was my first two Toyotas. Will never buy another one.
My Aunt has been buying a new Camry every three years since 1990. She just trades in at 3 years and never one gave her issues. Likely none of them had over 60k miles when traded. Piece of mind -- I prefer a 0W20 motor oil over 0W16. My money, my decision...
 
Our 2022 Lexus es300h has had 3 OCI’s with Mobil 1 0W-16. We keep our cars for 10-15 years, expect this car to run that long on 0W-16. Maybe Quaker State will make their new 20K elixir in 0W-16 soon, running this in my Tundra and enjoy it.
 
Our 2022 Lexus es300h has had 3 OCI’s with Mobil 1 0W-16. We keep our cars for 10-15 years, expect this car to run that long on 0W-16. Maybe Quaker State will make their new 20K elixir in 0W-16 soon, running this in my Tundra and enjoy it.

Ive been using M1 0W-20 in our 2015 ES350 since we got it, but not sure about the whole "Tri Action" version now. May switch to something else come next oil change.

Would be interesting to see if the M1 0W-16 is actually better.
 
Ive been using M1 0W-20 in our 2015 ES350 since we got it, but not sure about the whole "Tri Action" version now. May switch to something else come next oil change.

Would be interesting to see if the M1 0W-16 is actually better.
What don't you like about the new formula? I have been using PP and PUP mostly since 2011. I don't like the new SP D1G3 formulation and on project farm it had the worst pour test. You can say none of the other test matter but my Mirage knocks in cold weather now and it didn't used to.

I love the new valvoline EP formula but they sold out to the middle east. They won't ever get my money again.

Was wondering if Mobil FS is the same formula as TGMO. Excited to see the VOA on the new QS product
 
What don't you like about the new formula? I have been using PP and PUP mostly since 2011. I don't like the new SP D1G3 formulation and on project farm it had the worst pour test. You can say none of the other test matter but my Mirage knocks in cold weather now and it didn't used to.

I love the new valvoline EP formula but they sold out to the middle east. They won't ever get my money again.

Was wondering if Mobil FS is the same formula as TGMO. Excited to see the VOA on the new QS product

I haven't used the Tri-Action labelled version yet. Seen people not happy about it on BITOG, but without personal experience Im just relaying that notion. For all I know its fine (I mean, its a Toyota engine so ...)

Lexus specs a 10K mile OCI which I was never happy about (except when it was under warranty). We put about 9K miles per year on it, but I might move to every 6 month oil changes...that way I really dont need to worry about making sure an oil can last 10K miles, and pretty much any decent synth will last 4-5K. Fair amount of stop and go, and winter, so I would change it with the change in temperature extremes (early spring, then late fall/early winter)
 
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