Need help with selecting a good portable generator

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Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit


Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Do not store the generator in freezing temperatures. Most generator have a capacitor in them as part of the voltage regulation of the generator. If that capacitor freezes (its freezing temperature is lower than 32F, but it can be frozen), the expanding ice crystals inside of the capacitor will damage the capacitor and the generator will not work. Store the generator in an area where it can not be exposed to freezing temperatures.


Crud, I did not realize that about the capacitor. That means I don't have any place to store a generator--I was just going to make a doghouse for mine, chaining it to the deck.


My generator (above) has sat in freezing temperatures without an issue, every winter for 17 years. Since a minutes worth of research on Google tells me that the working temperature of a capacitor is normally down to about 14 degrees F, and I've had zero issues with mine even in sub zero temperatures, I wouldn't worry about the capacitor issue.

At least around here, there are a lot of generators stored outdoors on RVs or in sheds, and I don't recall anyone ever having an issue with them. Most quality generators are designed to be run in temperature extremes and do so without an issue.

If it's one of the elcheapo generators, then anything is possible.



He may have been referring to the newer inverter generators, which have a large bank of electrolytic capacitors in the inverter circuitry. Older generators (non-inverter) have simple regulator circuits that don't have a need for them. Electrolytic capacitors can freeze; other types don't.
 
You said you wanted a good portable generator.

Go Honda or Yamaha inverter.

Your checkbook will holler for a while, but you will forget about this once you use them.

Quiet, fuel efficient and super well-built and reliable.
 
I have one of the Champion 4000w units.
I have had it 4 or 5 years and have nothing but good things to say about it. I do not have tons of hours on it, power has only gone out a couple times since I have owned it. I do try to start it and run for 30 minutes every month.
The power went out last night for about an hour and a half, it ran 2 refrigerators, a medium size chest freezer, and several lights in my house and garage. It always starts in 3 pulls or less and is surprisingly fuel efficient. It is fairly quiet for a generator of its size.
The units are built in china, and the engine is a Honda clone.
The company is based out of California and you can order parts directly from them. (You could also use genuine honda parts on the engine) I broke the air cleaner cover and called them, part was only $10 plus a few bucks shipping, they shipped right out and I had it in about a week (California to NY)
I run Rotella t6 5w40 synthetic and change annually, no noticeable consumption between changes.
I am very happy with my Champion and would recommend them to anyone!
FYI they make everything from a 2000w inverter style to a 7500w heavy duty unit.

http://www.championpowerequipment.com/
 
Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit


Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Do not store the generator in freezing temperatures. Most generator have a capacitor in them as part of the voltage regulation of the generator. If that capacitor freezes (its freezing temperature is lower than 32F, but it can be frozen), the expanding ice crystals inside of the capacitor will damage the capacitor and the generator will not work. Store the generator in an area where it can not be exposed to freezing temperatures.


Crud, I did not realize that about the capacitor. That means I don't have any place to store a generator--I was just going to make a doghouse for mine, chaining it to the deck.


My generator (above) has sat in freezing temperatures without an issue, every winter for 17 years. Since a minutes worth of research on Google tells me that the working temperature of a capacitor is normally down to about 14 degrees F, and I've had zero issues with mine even in sub zero temperatures, I wouldn't worry about the capacitor issue.

At least around here, there are a lot of generators stored outdoors on RVs or in sheds, and I don't recall anyone ever having an issue with them. Most quality generators are designed to be run in temperature extremes and do so without an issue.

If it's one of the elcheapo generators, then anything is possible.



He may have been referring to the newer inverter generators, which have a large bank of electrolytic capacitors in the inverter circuitry. Older generators (non-inverter) have simple regulator circuits that don't have a need for them. Electrolytic capacitors can freeze; other types don't.


My new 3600 RPM chonda has a voltage regulation circuit that's bascially an alternator field control on top of an engine speed governor. My theory of its operation is that by actually loading the engine harder to try to maintain voltage the governor then reacts twice as fast, and within the ability of the "flywheel effect" to keep on trucking.

It is pleasantly consistent in output, but now you have me worried about its complicated guts. After all, Dell computers didn't do well with under-spec'd capacitors.
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Originally Posted By: eljefino

My new 3600 RPM chonda has a voltage regulation circuit that's bascially an alternator field control on top of an engine speed governor. My theory of its operation is that by actually loading the engine harder to try to maintain voltage the governor then reacts twice as fast, and within the ability of the "flywheel effect" to keep on trucking.

It is pleasantly consistent in output, but now you have me worried about its complicated guts. After all, Dell computers didn't do well with under-spec'd capacitors.
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That's more or less how it goes. Unless it's billed as an inverter generator, the engine has to run at a constant 3600 RPM to keep the 60 Hz output frequency constant, which the governor takes care of. You are correct that the voltage regulator is the field control, and its purpose is to maintain the output voltage. Doesn't sound like you have to worry about electrolytic capacitors though, the regulator is pretty simple in that case.
 
The capacitor I was referring to was on 3600 RPM units.

From what is see regarding these capacitors, it looks like they are being used in a resonant circuit and must be the more expensive AC rated capacitor.

The following is some stuff I found with a few minutes on google regarding generators and capacitors:

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My assumption is that, if it is resonant at 60 Hz, similarly to a voltage regulating transformer, the residual magnetism in the rotor will set up a 60 Hz weak pulsating field when the unit comes up to speed.

That will "pump" the resonator, inducing a current. The resonator will have a larger current in it, due to resonant energy storage, than you would expect just from the weak residual field.

That current must then induce a current in the rotating field windings, which pumps the resonator harder, inducing more in the rotating windings. That cycle continues until the resonator 'clips" by local saturation (assuming it is like a Sola as gar suggests).

The rotating field also induces voltage in the output windings. Since the induced field current is dependent on the resonator, the limiting of resonator energy also regulates the output.

I would expect the output windings are coupled magnetically to the resonator, which provides the feedback of "volts per turn" necessary to regulate the output voltage.

At full voltage, the "clipping" of the resonator limits the induced voltage in the field, and so the output voltage.

It sounds like a perpetual motion machine, until you realize that the input is the mechanical energy of turning the rotor. That rotates the field and pumps the resonator.

Because the resonator is somewhat decoupled from the output, it isn't so dependent on the output load as say a shunt DC generator. Those won't "build up" with too heavy a load on them because the load steals too much current and the field does not get enough current to have positive feedback and build up.

That all means there will be a "best value" for the cap. Any other value will give lesser performance.

I said the frequency is set by RPM, and that would be so.... but per my thoughts above, the wrong value cap would tend to make the whole system work best at a different frequency....

So too big would cause the best frequency to drop, and too small causes it to go up, by the square root of the cap value error.

Thus, too big a cap, and it could be a 50, or 55 Hz generator, with max output at a lower RPM and lower frequency than 60.
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08-01-2006, 10:29 PM #14 jmead
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Well said J Tiers, I think the judges'll buy that. By your description it seems like for another dollar or two for a coil they could have made a really accurate resonating circuit but that would be less profit I suppose.
I should've studied harder in school.
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08-02-2006, 11:14 AM #15 jim rozen
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There *is* a coil there. It's the stator
winding. Hence my suggestion to just measure
that inductance with an inexpensive L meter.

Also you don't want that ckt to have too high
a Q. Because the speed on the motor varies,
it should probably be less then 5 or so.

Jim
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08-02-2006, 01:03 PM #16 440roadrunner
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Gar is absolutely correct. That would be a "resonating" cap and is undoubtedly used for voltage regulation.

The value is going to be critical--I have no idea how to calculate, other than trial and error

It needs to be an AC cap, such as a run cap

I doubt that it has anything to do with excitation
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08-02-2006, 01:03 PM #17 JST
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That works, but so will setting it for resonance (largest voltage) using a small transformer and resistor as a source.

Or trying values and checking for full output at correct RPM/ frequency. An electric clock with a sweep second hand will quickly ( a couple minutes) show if frequency is far enough out to be a problem.

The "Q" will be already set, since it is strongly dependent on the cap value. The cap in turn can have only one value to resonate at the correct frequency with the existing coil.
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08-02-2006, 01:15 PM #18 chuckey
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1, Apologies for my first post, what I said is a load of b*****ks, should have looked at the circuit closer. Another thought, I have heard that cheap generators tend to produce a wave form that is a series of steps, rather then a sinewave. Could be a tuned circuit to notch out the third harmonic of 60 hz in an attempt to improve the waveform. According to my maths 24Mfd will tune with .3H at 60 hz, so it will take .3/9 = .033 H to tune to 180hz. To measure the inductance without a bridge, get a bell transformer and a known resistor,say 10k ohms, connect the reistor in series with the bell transformer secondary and the sub coil. Energise the transformer. Measure the voltage across the subcoil (= x ) and the resistor (=y). Providing y is much bigger the x, the impedance of the coil is x/y times 10k ohms. The inductance (at 60Hz) is the impedance / 2 x 3.14 x 60. If the voltage measured at x is too small for your meter, use a 100 ohm resistor.
Frank
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08-02-2006, 07:43 PM #19 gnorbury
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What you have there is a "mase" generator. The capacitor is there to provide feedback/resonate the auxiliary windings and in turn induce a magnetic field in the rotor windings, and hence usable power in the stator windings.

The following comments are taken from "The Marine Electrical & Electronics Bible" by John C. Payne:
1) While rotating, the residual magnetism and permanent magnets induce a voltage into the auxiliary windings for excitation. This voltage is fed to the capacitor, which generates capacitive current in the circuit.
2) The capacitive current creates a magnetic field, which is rectified by the diode, supplying a DC current to the induction winding. This generates a rotating magnetic field for generation of output.

Varing the size of the capacitor may give you some measure of control over voltage regulation, especially loaded vs unloaded.

YMMV
Graham

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Anyhow, 3600 RPM units DO have a capacitor.

I am sure inverter units also have capacitors in them but for different reasons, they may (or may not) be of the construction that can withstand cold temperature.

There are capacitors that can withstand extreme temperatures, but in general they are more expensive, and they are usually made in small values. A power circuit like the circuit in a 3600 RPM generator would most likely require a large value capacitor and therefore it probably would not be of the construction that is made for extreme temperatures.

Also be aware if this capacitor is rated for AC voltage, you can not replace it with a lower cost DC only capacitor if it goes bad.
 
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BTW on 3600 RPM units, the capacitor is usually hidden in the end cover of the electrical section of the generator (the same side the brushes are on). On some units you can see some of the capacitor if you look for it.
 
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I just went out and looked at my champion generator and through the fins i can see a 470uf 250v capacitor. It looks like it's part of the AVR unit, also molded into the plastic so i doubt it's replaceable. The generator is a 5kw.
 
I honestly wouldn't use a generator for sump pump backup if it needs to be run constantly. From the hurricane, I lost power for 90 hours. There are still large portions of the surrounding area that still don't have power and could be out until Wednesday. Do you want to store or have to buy 90 hours of fuel during something like this? There were two hour waits at 3am for a local gas station. The best way to backup a sump pump is getting a backup that runs off of city water. Not cheap, but it will stay running when you need it. Now you can also do battery backup, but then you better have a way to jumper the battery to your car to recharge it every 4 to 8 hours. Much cheaper than the water powered backup though.

Now for the generator, with the sump pump already taken care of, you can get a smaller, more efficient generator to run your heat and refridgerator. Also, both of those don't require you to run the generator continuously. You could run it one hour on and two or three off. Thus saving large amounts of fuel. I would have only needed to run it 30 hours instead of 90.
 
Originally Posted By: BerlinettaBoxer
I honestly wouldn't use a generator for sump pump backup if it needs to be run constantly. From the hurricane, I lost power for 90 hours. There are still large portions of the surrounding area that still don't have power and could be out until Wednesday. Do you want to store or have to buy 90 hours of fuel during something like this? There were two hour waits at 3am for a local gas station.


Agreed.

I am solidly in the smaller is better camp. The gas to run a large generator simply may not be available. I have a Honda eu2000i and a HF 2 smoke cheapy for extra measure. With 10 five gallon cans and frugal run time cycling I figure that I can get by for nearly a month.
 
Originally Posted By: BerlinettaBoxer
I honestly wouldn't use a generator for sump pump backup if it needs to be run constantly. From the hurricane, I lost power for 90 hours. There are still large portions of the surrounding area that still don't have power and could be out until Wednesday. Do you want to store or have to buy 90 hours of fuel during something like this? There were two hour waits at 3am for a local gas station. The best way to backup a sump pump is getting a backup that runs off of city water. Not cheap, but it will stay running when you need it. Now you can also do battery backup, but then you better have a way to jumper the battery to your car to recharge it every 4 to 8 hours. Much cheaper than the water powered backup though.

Now for the generator, with the sump pump already taken care of, you can get a smaller, more efficient generator to run your heat and refridgerator. Also, both of those don't require you to run the generator continuously. You could run it one hour on and two or three off. Thus saving large amounts of fuel. I would have only needed to run it 30 hours instead of 90.



Here's my problem- My house was built in 1925 and the basement sump pit is 10" across and it's solid concrete into bed rock. The electric pump fills the pit completely. I've looked into the water powered jet pumps, but it seems none of them would fit in the pit next to the sump pump- which really sucks because it would be the PERFECT solution to the problem! The only place I've found them is Lowes and Home Depot and both of them not only will not fit, but seem SUPER cheezy in construction. If there are other better outlets to buy one, or better designs, I'm all ears! I'd like to go that route if I could. And then too, that would fix the issue with sizing the generator.
 
Originally Posted By: BerlinettaBoxer
I honestly wouldn't use a generator for sump pump backup if it needs to be run constantly. From the hurricane, I lost power for 90 hours. There are still large portions of the surrounding area that still don't have power and could be out until Wednesday. Do you want to store or have to buy 90 hours of fuel during something like this? There were two hour waits at 3am for a local gas station.


I'd drive the 60-70 miles to PA to get gas every other day. I grew up in North Jersey and that's what I would do. Or drive to upstate NY if I had to. 1/2 a tank of gas every day or so would be nothing vs a basement remodel courtesy of a flood.

We went through that at our previous house with the hurricane when the sewer backed up. Insurance told us to pound sound as we didn't have the appropriate insurance.

The best would be a battery backup + spare battery and a quick auto-type charger. That way you could run the generator to charge the battery in a couple hours and then shut it off. Hard on batteries but worth it.


Quote:
The best way to backup a sump pump is getting a backup that runs off of city water. Not cheap, but it will stay running when you need it.


Not necessarily. While many city water supplies are generatr backed up they may also run out of gas/diesel/Natural Gas too. They shut of NG in the Jersey Shore due to the fear of explosions. I wonder if those on Staten Island have city water?

And then there's the sewage issue. As we learned during Lee last year if the sewage plants are flooded they won't work and will/may back up. Many in our area were flooded during Lee and backups were common.

It depends on your house too. Our sump would shut off after a couple of days of running so you may not have to run it the whole time. The important thing is to get the sump discharge away from the house - down the driveway, into the street, into a creek, wherever. That can cut down on how long it runs.
 
Regarding the city water issue, you are right though that there is no perfect solution. If you are in one of the areas that has had natural gas shut off, you have bigger problems to worry about than a flooded basement. And if I had a generator, I would have a natural gas one, knowing the issues with the fact that it could get shut off.

And for battery backups, the OP might not be able to use them either, though they are typically smaller than the main pump. They do kinda suck though, they don't flow nearly as much water as a regular sump pump, so you probably would need two. My father in law needed two for the first day after the storm. And he had to recharge the battery with the car every four hours. But, that went down to needing one pump and recharging every 6 to 8 hours shortly before he got power back.
 
Odd question here- Is it possible to build my own venturi/jet pump out of shallow well equipment. I could easily put a foot valve down in the pit. The big question would be if the domestic water supply would carry enough psi to get the job done.
 
I am running a Ingersoll Rand G7HE that is bolted to my service truck. I am on day 9 and use it about 12-16 hours a day it uses about 6 gals of gas a day. I had the gen fueled up before the storm and also 25 gals of gas in 5 gal containers ready. Also have a miller bobcat 250 full of fuel if I need it. We have had to wait up to 2 hours to get fuel but no big deal in the grand scheme of things. I am actually going to get diesel gen becaus e I have access to diesel a lot easier .
 
My Honda EU2000i has been running for 8 days now. Total fuel consumption has been just over 16 gallons, about 2 gallons per day.

It is running my refrigerator, freezer, wood stove blower, a small fan to move warm air, 2 CFL lamps (13 watt), 1 LED lamp (7 watt), WiFi router, DSL modem, 5 laptop chargers, 4 mobile phone chargers and 2 tablet chargers.

I am not running my boiler for hot water, I need to do some wiring so I can plug it in to the generator. There was no point because our community water system went dry. Water came back today, so I might get the boiler online tomorrow.

No idea when JCP&L will restore power to my house. There is a lot of damage in my neighborhood and I am at the end of the line - it all has to be repaired before I can shut the generator down.

Since this is BITOG: two oil changes so far and another scheduled for tomorrow. Mobil 1 5W-30 High Mileage because it's what I have on hand.
 
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Originally Posted By: ron917
My Honda EU2000i has been running for 8 days now. Total fuel consumption has been just over 16 gallons, about 2 gallons per day.

It is running my refrigerator, freezer, wood stove blower, a small fan to move warm air, 2 CFL lamps (13 watt), 1 LED lamp (7 watt), WiFi router, DSL modem, 5 laptop chargers, 4 mobile phone chargers and 2 tablet chargers.

I am not running my boiler for hot water, I need to do some wiring so I can plug it in to the generator. There was no point because our community water system went dry. Water came back today, so I might get the boiler online tomorrow.

No idea when JCP&L will restore power to my house. There is a lot of damage in my neighborhood and I am at the end of the line - it all has to be repaired before I can shut the generator down.

Since this is BITOG: two oil changes so far and another scheduled for tomorrow. Mobil 1 5W-30 High Mileage because it's what I have on hand.


Is your eu2000i 2000 watts?
 
Originally Posted By: tig1


Is your eu2000i 2000 watts?


2000 watts peak, 1600 watts continuous. 2000 watts is permitted for up to 30 minutes, according to the owner's manual.

Forgot to list the coffee machine (900 watts) in my previous post, but that only runs long enough to brew a pot in the morning.
 
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