need advice: Breaking in new vq35 infiniti g35

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bythabay

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Dec 14, 2003
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San Francisco, CA USA
I am about to purchase a brand new infinity g35 6mt model sedan.

Contemplating all the different way to break in the motor, I have come to the conclusion that the only reason to not use synthetics from the start is becuase they are primarily for extended drains and as a result I'd be wasting money since the oil in a new motor will get contaminated quickly for the first few K. But, I have decided to go with synthetic anyways right from the start along side an amsoil bypass filtration system and an amsoil pre-oiler.

I plan to dump the factory oil after I get home and immediately install bypass and pre-oiler units. After the odometer hits 4000 miles, I will replace all the filters and the oil and drive until the odometer hits 10,000K. At this point, I will just change the oil, drive until I reach 17,000K and at this point I will perform an oil analysis to see if I can extend my drains even further.

My main concern for doing this: I want to catch as much initial debris from the start as possible and give my engine nothing but the best.

What do you guys think?
 
I think your ideas are correct. I'm running the factory fill in my Honda out to 5,000 miles, then another shot of dino for about 3,000 more then synthetic. It's not that synthetic is bad for a new engine, but more of a waste. Just vary your rpm's as much as possible, avoide full throttle from a stop, but punch it now and then. I waited until after 600 miles which is what the manual stated. You'll be good to go.
cheers.gif
 
I believe the infiniti manual states something like "keep it under 4000 rpms until you reach 1400 miles.. I will do this ofcourse varying rpms within that range as much as I can and being that I am not an agressive driver, one of the main reasons I am purchasing the infiniti is becuase the engine is so powerful. I have a hypothesis that if I don't absuse the engine (like excessive revving) then it will last a very long time becuase the parts were designed with abuse in mind... so since its not getting abuse the parts will last longer (ie. less heat, less wear)

my defenition of abuse: hard acceleration, high rpms (above say 4K all the time)

My main concern is with the bypass setup... is it okay to install one in a brand new car to help being with filtering the oil?
 
Welll honestly today's oils are now so good that there is very little difference. The new generation GF-4's promise to be better with either better packages of additives or better bases (more Group III). But having said that..I switched to synthetic (Mobil 1) when I got home from the dealer (New 2001-Nissan Sentra). I had 40 miles on the vehicle then. Since then the car has had either Synthetics or the Schaeffer's blend. BTW the vehicle uses maybe an ounce of oil (or less) per 1000 miles.

I think the two advantages of synthetics will be cleaner engines out into the 100K range and possibly better survivability for the engine in the case of a coolant failure.

Your method can't hurt..but is likely overkill. But overkill is what we do here.
 
quote:
I have a hypothesis that if I don't absuse the engine (like excessive revving) then it will last a very long time becuase the parts were designed with abuse in mind... so since its not getting abuse the parts will last longer (ie. less heat, less wear)

Click to expand...
Depends on how you define abuse. Everyone treats their car differently. I wait until the engine is always fully warm before I take the rpms above 3k. I also don't floor it from a dead stop. Maintaining your fluids and keeping it clean is also important. However, you absolutely want to race it now and then. It's good for it.
 
quote:
Depends on how you define abuse. Everyone treats their car differently. I wait until the engine is always fully warm before I take the rpms above 3k. I also don't floor it from a dead stop. Maintaining your fluids and keeping it clean is also important. However, you absolutely want to race it now and then. It's good for it.
Click to expand...
Why would I want to race it now and then? I do occassionally like to feel the near full power of my engine, but I never even push close to redline - I believe it introduces unneccessary wear..?
 
quote:
Originally posted by bythabay:
I am about to purchase a brand new infinity g35 6mt model sedan.

Contemplating all the different way to break in the motor, I have come to the conclusion that the only reason to not use synthetics from the start is becuase they are primarily for extended drains and as a result I'd be wasting money since the oil in a new motor will get contaminated quickly for the first few K. But, I have decided to go with synthetic anyways right from the start along side an amsoil bypass filtration system and an amsoil pre-oiler.

I plan to dump the factory oil after I get home and immediately install bypass and pre-oiler units. After the odometer hits 4000 miles, I will replace all the filters and the oil and drive until the odometer hits 10,000K. At this point, I will just change the oil, drive until I reach 17,000K and at this point I will perform an oil analysis to see if I can extend my drains even further.

My main concern for doing this: I want to catch as much initial debris from the start as possible and give my engine nothing but the best.

What do you guys think?
Click to expand...
Wont you be over the manufacturers stated drain interval? I would go by the book until its out of warranty.
 
quote:
Wont you be over the manufacturers stated drain interval? I would go by the book until its out of warranty.
Click to expand...
No, the manufacturer's only interest is to make money, to sell us cars, and to have their customers satisfied... most people don't expect a car to last more than 150k - 200k .. I am expecting much more mileage out of this car. Even if I do have a warranty claim, it would have to be proven that the oil did the damage, and with my oil analysis I will have proof the oil was fine. Additionally, if they say to porve the oil was changed, I can provide them with reciepts from other cars since I change the oil myself I have proof of purchase of many oils and filters... there is no law that forces me to have my oil changed by someone else when I am fully capable of doing it myself.

Bottom Line: The typical consumer does not read BITOG forum postings hence they follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Because when people don't know better, that's what they do: they follow recommendations to avoid screwing stuff up...
 
I'd run the factory fill for at least five or six hundred miles before I'd change the filter and go synthetic. I drive a new engine no differently than an older one, just driving as I normally would.
 
quote:
Originally posted by KJA426:
I'd run the factory fill for at least five or six hundred miles before I'd change the filter and go synthetic. I drive a new engine no differently than an older one, just driving as I normally would.
Click to expand...
I figure the most important thing for me would be to install a bypass unit and a preoiler as soon as possible.. so while doing that I will just replace the oil with synth... but tell me, why would you wait 500 or 600 miles to replace the oil? If you are going to do it so soon, why not do it right away and install a bypass unit to help cear up initial engine break in contaminants?
 
I think its fine to run syn oil from the start. My saab came from the factory with syn in it. It was reccomended to drive gently for the first 1000 or so miles, and that is what I and my family have done with ALL of our cars. We have never had a problem, and have cars like new at 185+k miles.

Id say to do this... drain the oil soon, but take it for a long drive first. Get the engine and oil fully hot. If it was my car, Id drive it for 100-200 miles before taking it home and draining the factory fill. This ensures that you get some good use of the car, with breakin oil before removing it. it gives a bit more running time, to smooth things out a bit, while not overwhelming the filtration system. Plus, it ensures that the oil goes through an entire thermal cycle of everything, which IMO is important.

JMH
 
Even though some engine designs come from the factory with synthetic, there is a general consensus that synthetics may be a little too slippery for the rings to seat properly. Some synthetic manufacturers state on their product to wait a few thousand miles before switching. I switched my 4.7 Dodge at six hundred.
 
Change the factory fill and filter EARLY, maybe 3-4 HUNDRED miles. There is still mucho crap from the manufacturing process on the inside.Cut the filter open and check the media with a magnifier, lots of sprinkles. Again at 1000, 3000 then one more time at 7K. Stay with a good dino until the 7K, syn from then on. Your grand kids will inherit the car if you keep the rust away. I agree with the breakin instructions posted above. But most people just Can't do it with their new vehicle.

WDP
 
I think the dumbest thing you can do is "drive it like you stole it"

All biases aside, take some components, regardless of what they are or where they are from... if you abuse them, they will not last as long as if they are not abused - end of conversation. I don't even see how this is debateable...
 
quote:
Originally posted by bythabay:

quote:
Wont you be over the manufacturers stated drain interval? I would go by the book until its out of warranty.
Click to expand...
No, the manufacturer's only interest is to make money, to sell us cars, and to have their customers satisfied... most people don't expect a car to last more than 150k - 200k .. I am expecting much more mileage out of this car. Even if I do have a warranty claim, it would have to be proven that the oil did the damage, and with my oil analysis I will have proof the oil was fine. Additionally, if they say to porve the oil was changed, I can provide them with reciepts from other cars since I change the oil myself I have proof of purchase of many oils and filters... there is no law that forces me to have my oil changed by someone else when I am fully capable of doing it myself.

Bottom Line: The typical consumer does not read BITOG forum postings hence they follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Because when people don't know better, that's what they do: they follow recommendations to avoid screwing stuff up...
Click to expand...
Well, I dont agree. I dont like the schedule of my 05 tundra, which specifies 5000 OCI's, but I will adhere to it until I'm out of warranty. I want my truck to last also, same as you. Thats why I changed the oil/filter 3 times before I hit 6000 miles. I now run Mobil1, and will do the 5000 OCI. Yes, I know the oil is fine, but I wouldnt want any type of hassle if my engine were to fail. Also, by using mobil1 and doing 5000 oci's, my engine is leading a nice life until it gets out of warranty. I bet I only spend a little more than you, since you will be performing analysis, which costs close to an oil change in most cases. I dont see the point of constant anaylsis on a new engine. Its under warranty. I will do one at 10,000 miles, and two others when the truck has 55000 and 59000 miles to start a baseline for my extended oci's when the warranty expires at 60000. Doing the two before the warranty is up will catch any problems like a coolant leak, and I will be under warranty. Doing any uoa's in between is money down the drain in my opinion.
Also dont agree with warranty fraud, such as providing receipts for work that was not performed. Again, just my opinion.
 
quote:
Originally posted by bythabay:
I think the dumbest thing you can do is "drive it like you stole it"

All biases aside, take some components, regardless of what they are or where they are from... if you abuse them, they will not last as long as if they are not abused - end of conversation. I don't even see how this is debateable...
Click to expand...
No not the end friend. From experaince and from many a expert you should drive the car a little harder than normal the first few hundred miles. Hold nothing back....
Todays engines are nothing like the engines of yesteryear when the "drive it like it's new" theory actual was correct....cylinder walls of today have a crosshatch pattern designed to "file" the rings.....the first 20 miles is when this will take place...higher rpm's equate to a much more suited seat of the rings to the cylinder walls....I'll stop there and allow/challenge anyone to contradict this.....old school/old engines...yes...drive it like a baby....the new engines are not anything like the old ones and the "break in" periods required....I cannot believe this is even being debated
smile.gif
 
quote:
Originally posted by bythabay:
I think the dumbest thing you can do is "drive it like you stole it"

All biases aside, take some components, regardless of what they are or where they are from... if you abuse them, they will not last as long as if they are not abused - end of conversation. I don't even see how this is debateable...
Click to expand...
Well some manuals state do do wide open throttle runs for break in. Also, some reputable engine builders state the same. I broke my 4 stroke motorcycle in this way, and my tundra as well. Not from a stop but from moving 20mph. Seats the rings nicely. Try it, more power, less oil consumption, you'll like it.
 
quote:
Originally posted by 2005tundra2002yz250f:

quote:
Originally posted by bythabay:

quote:
Wont you be over the manufacturers stated drain interval? I would go by the book until its out of warranty.
Click to expand...
No, the manufacturer's only interest is to make money, to sell us cars, and to have their customers satisfied... most people don't expect a car to last more than 150k - 200k .. I am expecting much more mileage out of this car. Even if I do have a warranty claim, it would have to be proven that the oil did the damage, and with my oil analysis I will have proof the oil was fine. Additionally, if they say to porve the oil was changed, I can provide them with reciepts from other cars since I change the oil myself I have proof of purchase of many oils and filters... there is no law that forces me to have my oil changed by someone else when I am fully capable of doing it myself.

Bottom Line: The typical consumer does not read BITOG forum postings hence they follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Because when people don't know better, that's what they do: they follow recommendations to avoid screwing stuff up...
Click to expand...
Well, I dont agree. I dont like the schedule of my 05 tundra, which specifies 5000 OCI's, but I will adhere to it until I'm out of warranty. I want my truck to last also, same as you. Thats why I changed the oil/filter 3 times before I hit 6000 miles. I now run Mobil1, and will do the 5000 OCI. Yes, I know the oil is fine, but I wouldnt want any type of hassle if my engine were to fail. Also, by using mobil1 and doing 5000 oci's, my engine is leading a nice life until it gets out of warranty. I bet I only spend a little more than you, since you will be performing analysis, which costs close to an oil change in most cases. I dont see the point of constant anaylsis on a new engine. Its under warranty. I will do one at 10,000 miles, and two others when the truck has 55000 and 59000 miles to start a baseline for my extended oci's when the warranty expires at 60000. Doing the two before the warranty is up will catch any problems like a coolant leak, and I will be under warranty. Doing any uoa's in between is money down the drain in my opinion.
Also dont agree with warranty fraud, such as providing receipts for work that was not performed. Again, just my opinion.
Click to expand...
Okay, I'm not really following you here...

A. "which specifies 5000 OCI's, but I will adhere to it until I'm out of warranty."

So even if the oil is contaminated after 4K you will leave it in to do damage??? And if the oil is in great condition you will pour it out and pollute the environment? Additionally, providing your vehicle with excessive dry starting changing the oil more frequently than it needs to be changed??

B. "I wouldnt want any type of hassle if my engine were to fail"

Suppose your engine does fail... they would have to prove the oil was bad to deny you service..

C. "I bet I only spend a little more than you, since you will be performing analysis, which costs close to an oil change in most cases."

The only reason I will be doing oil analysis is to extend my drains safely, so that in case I do have a warranty claim, I can prove that I was not neglectful and would have immediate proof that the oil was serving its purpose and providing above adequate protection. Additionally, after oil analysis shows i can extend my drains for up to say 1 year, I will only perform analysis at that yearly interval, hence, spending LESS money than you with your proposed plan.

D. "Also dont agree with warranty fraud, such as providing receipts for work that was not performed."

I stated that I do indeed perform the work. However, if something unforseen happens and I need to show changes, I will provide whatever reicepts I have - since we know it would just be a beurocratic issue if they tried to deny my claim for lack of oil changes (and we know I would do analysis and the oil would in no way be at fault) then doing whatever I have to do to get around the system would be the right thing to do and just.
 
quote:
Originally posted by sgtgeek:

quote:
Originally posted by bythabay:
I think the dumbest thing you can do is "drive it like you stole it"

All biases aside, take some components, regardless of what they are or where they are from... if you abuse them, they will not last as long as if they are not abused - end of conversation. I don't even see how this is debateable...
Click to expand...
No not the end friend. From experaince and from many a expert you should drive the car a little harder than normal the first few hundred miles. Hold nothing back....
Todays engines are nothing like the engines of yesteryear when the "drive it like it's new" theory actual was correct....cylinder walls of today have a crosshatch pattern designed to "file" the rings.....the first 20 miles is when this will take place...higher rpm's equate to a much more suited seat of the rings to the cylinder walls....I'll stop there and allow/challenge anyone to contradict this.....old school/old engines...yes...drive it like a baby....the new engines are not anything like the old ones and the "break in" periods required....I cannot believe this is even being debated
smile.gif

Click to expand...
Suppose you are correct, and indeed the engine is meant to be driven harder in the beginning... what happens if you don't do it harder? and where is the proof? Your claim that engine builders recommend this, or engine builders recommend that is redundant.. and we all know even some of the most skilled mechanics don't know anything about engine oils.

I will admit that since the extended longevity of the motor is no the primary concern of the manufacturer, we cannot "trust" any of their recommendations, but since we really don't have any scientific evidence, then trusting the "recommendations" is the things to do, in my opinion at least...
 
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