My open mind wants to try Royal Purple
- Thread starter glxpassat
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Originally Posted By: badtlc
Every oil has coloring added to it.
I would like to know where you get this information. Most of the different shades of brown are caused by the different additive packages, depending on what base stock is used. If it's red, purple, blue, or green, then it has coloring added to it.
Every oil has coloring added to it.
I would like to know where you get this information. Most of the different shades of brown are caused by the different additive packages, depending on what base stock is used. If it's red, purple, blue, or green, then it has coloring added to it.
Royal Purple catches a lot of grief around here. I'm not sure why. The last handful of UOA's I've seen have been more than acceptable looking. I have seen nothing to indicate that it's not at least as good as most of the other upper end synthetics. TBN retention seems to be a strong point.
I don't see that it's overly expensive either-it was 6.75 per quart at Wally's last time I saw some. I certainly wouldn't be apologetic for trying it. Go for it! Please post a UOA!
Now if you'll excuse me I'm going to go weld a boiler plate over my behind.
REDDOG
I don't see that it's overly expensive either-it was 6.75 per quart at Wally's last time I saw some. I certainly wouldn't be apologetic for trying it. Go for it! Please post a UOA!
Now if you'll excuse me I'm going to go weld a boiler plate over my behind.
REDDOG
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Every oil has coloring added to it.
I would like to know where you get this information. Most of the different shades of brown are caused by the different additive packages, depending on what base stock is used. If it's red, purple, blue, or green, then it has coloring added to it.
If they don't, the oil would be almost clear. I'd like proof that there is one manufacturer that doesn't add color in some way to their oils.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Every oil has coloring added to it.
I would like to know where you get this information. Most of the different shades of brown are caused by the different additive packages, depending on what base stock is used. If it's red, purple, blue, or green, then it has coloring added to it.
If they don't, the oil would be almost clear. I'd like proof that there is one manufacturer that doesn't add color in some way to their oils.
Group II, Group III, and PAO are clear base stocks. Clear as water. When you start putting in all of the necessary additives to make it work as motor oil, that's where the different shades of brown come from.
I just got off the phone with a blender I know at Shell and he told me the only thing they put color in is their 2-cycle oils and ATF.
I just got off the phone with a blender I know at Shell and he told me the only thing they put color in is their 2-cycle oils and ATF.
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Originally Posted By: Johnny
Group II, Group III, and PAO are clear base stocks. Clear as water. When you start putting in all of the necessary additives to make it work as motor oil, that's where the different shades of brown come from.
I just got off the phone with a blender I know at Shell and he told me the only thing they put color in is their 2-cycle oils and ATF.
Indeed. Johnny nailed it. There is some strange bad info going down on BITOG lately. I could care less if someone adds dye to motor oil - it hurts nothing. Amsoil uses it in some, but not all oils. (The 2 stroke (red and blue) oils, ATF's (red), S2K 20W-50 (red). Most of the motors oils have no dye, just amber from the add pack.
Group II, Group III, and PAO are clear base stocks. Clear as water. When you start putting in all of the necessary additives to make it work as motor oil, that's where the different shades of brown come from.
I just got off the phone with a blender I know at Shell and he told me the only thing they put color in is their 2-cycle oils and ATF.
Indeed. Johnny nailed it. There is some strange bad info going down on BITOG lately. I could care less if someone adds dye to motor oil - it hurts nothing. Amsoil uses it in some, but not all oils. (The 2 stroke (red and blue) oils, ATF's (red), S2K 20W-50 (red). Most of the motors oils have no dye, just amber from the add pack.
No tech, but not adding coloring makes sense as a general principle. After all "additive" is just a fancy word for "intentional contaminant", so why would one want to put purely cosmetic non-functional ones in the mix?
Marketing for one and identification for the other. That's why ATF is red so you can spot where the leak is coming from and why 2-cycle oil is colored so you can tell the mixed gas from regular gas.
Personally, I do consider identification as a functional issue, but marketing, not so much.
Similar functional coloring applications I'm familar with are red dyed diesel and green dye in chill water loops.
Similar functional coloring applications I'm familar with are red dyed diesel and green dye in chill water loops.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Finally, if they eliminated the coloring, they'd have to change the name. Royal Brown!? Royal Clear? I don't think so.
Hey, there's apparently no moly in Liqui-Moly, so precedent has been set.
Finally, if they eliminated the coloring, they'd have to change the name. Royal Brown!? Royal Clear? I don't think so.
Hey, there's apparently no moly in Liqui-Moly, so precedent has been set.
Originally Posted By: NHSilverado
Originally Posted By: sHERM
I just posted a UOA on the analysis site. RP in a 2004 2.2L Ecotech. I took the sample at 6600 miles and they advised going to 7500. check it out
That is a decent report. In that post you asked about the Magnesium. The Magnesium is right where it should be.
I may be wrong here but isn't the 2.2L Ecotech famous for being hard on oil and using/burining oil? Seems to me I have read/heard that. Is this in a Saturn, other GM, SAAB,etc...????
I've not seen that anywhere about the Ecotec. You might be thinking of the older 2.2 GM 4 cyl. I've got an Ecotec 2.4, and it turned in a great UOA on PP 5w30 on its second oil change. I've seen many good UOAs on BITOG on Ecotecs, too. My brother has had 4 of them in his family and not one burned or used oil, and he runs whatever cheapest dino he can find. I have, however, seen a couple older 2.2L GM 4 cly engines in Chevy S10 pickups that used oil. They ran well past 100k miles, though, and neither was run on synthetic.
Originally Posted By: sHERM
I just posted a UOA on the analysis site. RP in a 2004 2.2L Ecotech. I took the sample at 6600 miles and they advised going to 7500. check it out
That is a decent report. In that post you asked about the Magnesium. The Magnesium is right where it should be.
I may be wrong here but isn't the 2.2L Ecotech famous for being hard on oil and using/burining oil? Seems to me I have read/heard that. Is this in a Saturn, other GM, SAAB,etc...????
I've not seen that anywhere about the Ecotec. You might be thinking of the older 2.2 GM 4 cyl. I've got an Ecotec 2.4, and it turned in a great UOA on PP 5w30 on its second oil change. I've seen many good UOAs on BITOG on Ecotecs, too. My brother has had 4 of them in his family and not one burned or used oil, and he runs whatever cheapest dino he can find. I have, however, seen a couple older 2.2L GM 4 cly engines in Chevy S10 pickups that used oil. They ran well past 100k miles, though, and neither was run on synthetic.
Update: I just saw a UOA on the BITGOG forum for the older 2.2 in an S10, and it looked great.
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Group II, Group III, and PAO are clear base stocks. Clear as water. When you start putting in all of the necessary additives to make it work as motor oil, that's where the different shades of brown come from.
I just got off the phone with a blender I know at Shell and he told me the only thing they put color in is their 2-cycle oils and ATF.
Like I said, every oil has color added to it in some way.
Group II, Group III, and PAO are clear base stocks. Clear as water. When you start putting in all of the necessary additives to make it work as motor oil, that's where the different shades of brown come from.
I just got off the phone with a blender I know at Shell and he told me the only thing they put color in is their 2-cycle oils and ATF.
Like I said, every oil has color added to it in some way.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Group II, Group III, and PAO are clear base stocks. Clear as water. When you start putting in all of the necessary additives to make it work as motor oil, that's where the different shades of brown come from.
I just got off the phone with a blender I know at Shell and he told me the only thing they put color in is their 2-cycle oils and ATF.
Like I said, every oil has color added to it in some way.
Well let me put it this way. The color purple, red, blue, green, etc., has absolutely nothing to to with the performance of a product. The natural color of shades of brown from the additives have everything to do with the performance of the product.
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Group II, Group III, and PAO are clear base stocks. Clear as water. When you start putting in all of the necessary additives to make it work as motor oil, that's where the different shades of brown come from.
I just got off the phone with a blender I know at Shell and he told me the only thing they put color in is their 2-cycle oils and ATF.
Like I said, every oil has color added to it in some way.
Well let me put it this way. The color purple, red, blue, green, etc., has absolutely nothing to to with the performance of a product. The natural color of shades of brown from the additives have everything to do with the performance of the product.
Shop oils, like GC are colourd to insure the owner recieves the genuine oil called for to maintin warranty service.
As for RP, is there a VOA on it? Isn't it just plain motor oil? I'd say it's no better or worse than $2 SM dino oil. Is there any serious oem style testing to back up claims that RP is a contender? When I buy GC or M1 0w-40, I have a buttload of factory approvals.
BMW
MB
Ford
GM (vette)
Audi/VW
Opel/Saab
ACEA
Porsche
et al
I hate to be a cliche', but "where's the beef"?
As for RP, is there a VOA on it? Isn't it just plain motor oil? I'd say it's no better or worse than $2 SM dino oil. Is there any serious oem style testing to back up claims that RP is a contender? When I buy GC or M1 0w-40, I have a buttload of factory approvals.
BMW
MB
Ford
GM (vette)
Audi/VW
Opel/Saab
ACEA
Porsche
et al
I hate to be a cliche', but "where's the beef"?
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
I've not seen that anywhere about the Ecotec. You might be thinking of the older 2.2 GM 4 cyl. I've got an Ecotec 2.4, and it turned in a great UOA on PP 5w30 on its second oil change. I've seen many good UOAs on BITOG on Ecotecs, too. My brother has had 4 of them in his family and not one burned or used oil, and he runs whatever cheapest dino he can find. I have, however, seen a couple older 2.2L GM 4 cly engines in Chevy S10 pickups that used oil. They ran well past 100k miles, though, and neither was run on synthetic.
No, it was that engine. Checked out some Saturn boards and the info is there.
I've not seen that anywhere about the Ecotec. You might be thinking of the older 2.2 GM 4 cyl. I've got an Ecotec 2.4, and it turned in a great UOA on PP 5w30 on its second oil change. I've seen many good UOAs on BITOG on Ecotecs, too. My brother has had 4 of them in his family and not one burned or used oil, and he runs whatever cheapest dino he can find. I have, however, seen a couple older 2.2L GM 4 cly engines in Chevy S10 pickups that used oil. They ran well past 100k miles, though, and neither was run on synthetic.
No, it was that engine. Checked out some Saturn boards and the info is there.
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Shop oils, like GC are colourd to insure the owner recieves the genuine oil called for to maintin warranty service.
As for RP, is there a VOA on it? Isn't it just plain motor oil? I'd say it's no better or worse than $2 SM dino oil. Is there any serious oem style testing to back up claims that RP is a contender? When I buy GC or M1 0w-40, I have a buttload of factory approvals.
BMW
MB
Ford
GM (vette)
Audi/VW
Opel/Saab
ACEA
Porsche
et al
I hate to be a cliche', but "where's the beef"?
Well, RP oils for the most part are Group IV PAO based. UNless I have been lied to which I doubt. From what I have seen RP folks are honest to a fault. I guess a few weights/offerings( Racing? )have some Group V. It definitely is not plain motor oil which I assume you mean is conventional? It also is not Group III either if that was what you meant although as PP shows that isn't always a bad thing.
Not to start this up again but factory approval/certifications mean SQUAT other than the oil mfg paid to have their product tested. I wish people on this site would stop putting so much emphasis on, and giving so much credit to, those approved/certified lists. They mean nothing for people who know how to research oils.
What has that certification got to do with it really? The mfg can't refuse you warranty coverage because you used an oil that wasn't on their certified/approved list( for whatever standard you want to apply ). I would think most here would know about the Magnuson-Moss act and the rights they have under that law. No mfg can require/mandate you use an oil that is "certified" to meet their own standard/spec. Just that the oil you use at least meets it. There is a big difference.
As to the actual oil itself. If an oil meets or exceeds a certain standard it does so whether or not it is certified by the mfg to do so. The certification doesn't make it a better oil than one not certified. The test results do and I would think people at this place, of all places, would realize that. So Mobil 1 is on a few( actually most - they really go for it )mfg's certification lists. Does that mean it is better than Amsoil, RedLine, Royal Purple, Penzoil Platinum, Schaeffers, etc...? How does that certification make their oil better? All it means to me is they spent a BUTT LOAD of money to get their products certified( and to be the official oil of many mfg's )and the products would have still been as good if not certified.
As to RP and why they never get certified. What I have been told is they feel the cost for certification is too high. As I stated about the law, what really is the point anyway. The oil is still okay to use. I doubt you see RP ever get certified for any mfg's spec. Not because it couldn't per say but because of the cost involved.
Certification is nice because it saves you having to spend a couple minutes showing your oil meets or exceeds the spec but that really is all it does. Saves a little leg work for the customer. Other than that the certification/approval does nadda for the oil itself. Either it does what you need or it doesn't.
Shop oils, like GC are colourd to insure the owner recieves the genuine oil called for to maintin warranty service.
As for RP, is there a VOA on it? Isn't it just plain motor oil? I'd say it's no better or worse than $2 SM dino oil. Is there any serious oem style testing to back up claims that RP is a contender? When I buy GC or M1 0w-40, I have a buttload of factory approvals.
BMW
MB
Ford
GM (vette)
Audi/VW
Opel/Saab
ACEA
Porsche
et al
I hate to be a cliche', but "where's the beef"?
Well, RP oils for the most part are Group IV PAO based. UNless I have been lied to which I doubt. From what I have seen RP folks are honest to a fault. I guess a few weights/offerings( Racing? )have some Group V. It definitely is not plain motor oil which I assume you mean is conventional? It also is not Group III either if that was what you meant although as PP shows that isn't always a bad thing.
Not to start this up again but factory approval/certifications mean SQUAT other than the oil mfg paid to have their product tested. I wish people on this site would stop putting so much emphasis on, and giving so much credit to, those approved/certified lists. They mean nothing for people who know how to research oils.
What has that certification got to do with it really? The mfg can't refuse you warranty coverage because you used an oil that wasn't on their certified/approved list( for whatever standard you want to apply ). I would think most here would know about the Magnuson-Moss act and the rights they have under that law. No mfg can require/mandate you use an oil that is "certified" to meet their own standard/spec. Just that the oil you use at least meets it. There is a big difference.
As to the actual oil itself. If an oil meets or exceeds a certain standard it does so whether or not it is certified by the mfg to do so. The certification doesn't make it a better oil than one not certified. The test results do and I would think people at this place, of all places, would realize that. So Mobil 1 is on a few( actually most - they really go for it )mfg's certification lists. Does that mean it is better than Amsoil, RedLine, Royal Purple, Penzoil Platinum, Schaeffers, etc...? How does that certification make their oil better? All it means to me is they spent a BUTT LOAD of money to get their products certified( and to be the official oil of many mfg's )and the products would have still been as good if not certified.
As to RP and why they never get certified. What I have been told is they feel the cost for certification is too high. As I stated about the law, what really is the point anyway. The oil is still okay to use. I doubt you see RP ever get certified for any mfg's spec. Not because it couldn't per say but because of the cost involved.
Certification is nice because it saves you having to spend a couple minutes showing your oil meets or exceeds the spec but that really is all it does. Saves a little leg work for the customer. Other than that the certification/approval does nadda for the oil itself. Either it does what you need or it doesn't.
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Originally Posted By: Johnny
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Group II, Group III, and PAO are clear base stocks. Clear as water. When you start putting in all of the necessary additives to make it work as motor oil, that's where the different shades of brown come from.
I just got off the phone with a blender I know at Shell and he told me the only thing they put color in is their 2-cycle oils and ATF.
Like I said, every oil has color added to it in some way.
Well let me put it this way. The color purple, red, blue, green, etc., has absolutely nothing to to with the performance of a product. The natural color of shades of brown from the additives have everything to do with the performance of the product.
You are 100% correct. The color of the oil( ie; red, blue, purple, green, etc... ) means nothing. It is just a dye. I don't think RP is great because it is purple. The purple dye in RP burns off very fast and the oil goes brown so a hundred miles down the road it is no longer purple anyway.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Group II, Group III, and PAO are clear base stocks. Clear as water. When you start putting in all of the necessary additives to make it work as motor oil, that's where the different shades of brown come from.
I just got off the phone with a blender I know at Shell and he told me the only thing they put color in is their 2-cycle oils and ATF.
Like I said, every oil has color added to it in some way.
Well let me put it this way. The color purple, red, blue, green, etc., has absolutely nothing to to with the performance of a product. The natural color of shades of brown from the additives have everything to do with the performance of the product.
You are 100% correct. The color of the oil( ie; red, blue, purple, green, etc... ) means nothing. It is just a dye. I don't think RP is great because it is purple. The purple dye in RP burns off very fast and the oil goes brown so a hundred miles down the road it is no longer purple anyway.
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