mazda lf22 mix with water.

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Hi all.

Just bought a litre of Mazda lf22 premixed coolant. On the back of the container. They write that you must not mix it with water. Because it will thin it and lower the effektiveness of the coolant.

That get,s me thinking. What if you have lets say a blown headgasket. With oil in the cooling system to follow. That will have to be flushed out with water. And no mater what you do. There will still be water in the cooling system when finally refilling with fl22.

That will also thin it up?

I am curious because I had the cooling system in my Mazda flushed with water and filled up with fl22 a while ago. It,s freezing point is about -33 celcius.

What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks.
Søren
 
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That is why I do not like coolants that come only in a pre-mixed form, as they are meant only for top offs and radiator drain and fills.

In your case, you have to ensure that most of the water was drained before filling the system with premix. The amount of water left in the system will determine the final coolant concentration.
 
Well. I am certain The dealer drained as much as possible. And I think the amount of water left in the system is pretty small. From the factory it it,s freezing point should be -40. And mine is -33. So I doubt the amount of water left is pretty small.
 
I'm not sure if you are saying that the FL-22(from the jug) is at -33C or from your cooling system.

-33C(-27F) is bearly enough go prevent freezing here in the NE U.S. winters but, I don't know the tempuratures in Denmark.

Here in W.NY State where I live -33C would be somewhat acceptable but, in other parts of NY State alone, this wouldn't cut it!
laugh.gif
 
Sorry :) the freezing point from the jug should be -40. My system is -33 celcius.

Normally the lowest temp here during winter is -25.celcius.
 
Then you have to do what I did when the Honda stealership used original green coolant instead of Honda Type2 premix with a Civic head gasket job.

I flushed the green using several distilled flushes till it ran clear or close. Then I added Type2 (lf22 in your case) and continued to do several d&f's until the proper coolant concentration is achieved. To do that, I bought an inexpensive Chaslyn 5 ball AF tester and when the correct concentration was reached, I stopped. (I tested the 5 ball tester with new Type 2 first and it was quite accurate)

Yes, it is a wasteful and costly process. Luckily a Civic cooling system capacity is small so less than two gallons of Type 2 was required, one of which was given to me by the offending stealer as I didn't trust them to do it right a second time. A fool me once,....deal.

Some might say find the block drain(s) and do. Good luck with that. If you can find them/it then there's the issue of accessing, which in the Civic is a pita. The multiple AF d&f is simply easier.
 
well. was kind trying to avoid that.

since it's not the wrong kind of coolant, but actually the right coolant, but maybe with too much water in it. LF22 Coolant ain't cheap here. and i guess mazda must have thought of the possibility that the cooling system might need flushing.
 
Right, mine was an extreme example of the wrong AF used with the head gasket replacement. For you, perhaps one radiator d&f will do the trick and bring your coolant to an acceptable concentration. I do think an accurate/reliable AF tester will help do that with as little waste as possible.

Premixed oem AF's used in Asian vehicles are imo primarily designed for an occasional single radiator d&f, not a system flush.
 
D&F ought to be just fine. Why make so much extra work for yourself? I am speaking directly from experience.

There are other threads on here that mention you can get the same coolant as FL22, in concentrate form, from a Ford dealer.
 
Just checked The freezingpoint Again This evening. I guess it must have mixed with the clean non watermix in the expansioncontainer. Because now the freezing point is -40 celcius. And tryed a drop from a unopened jug. It said -45. I used a refractometer.

I guess the waterpart must be pretty small.
 
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