Yes, Phoat and Poat, same thing. Adding the P (phosphate) to the Oat makes it a {H}ybrid Oat AF. All the AF pictured are Asian PHoat/Poat AFs. All fine to mix with older shorter service interval Phoat Toyota Red, or to get longer service interval, by itself with a system flush.
Interesting...I wonder if that is because they are not economical as diluted Pink. Irritating Toyota only makes the Pink in diluted form. I'm trying to figure out the difference between the Pink and the Red now. I haven't landed on a strong resource explaining that yet.
Ah, interesting...so what is in the Toyota Red then? Is there phosphate or another inorganic component? I noticed the Recochem product suggests the Red is for OAT, but then they say you want their Pink coolant if you want the phosphate additive...suggesting their Red does not have the phosphate in it.
Oh wow!! Crazy!! Is that a diesel product or something similar?
As a search will reveal there's many threads on this forum about the now superseded LL Red, at least one showing label listed ingredients and inhibitors. Toyota has said the newer SLL compatible with older LL Red,, good enough for me. I'd stick with any of the Asian Phoat AFs listed in this thread for topic vehicle.
Interesting. Ok, I'll search through the site a bit. Any idea what the primary difference is between the Long Life and the Super Long Life formulas? Most of the aftermarket companies seem to suggest these coolants changed circa 2009. I'm guessing they are designed more for the increased amount of aluminum in the system, will introduction to aluminum engine blocks, and the reduction of cast iron (now that the engine blocks are aluminum). I wonder how the inhibitor packages changed and whether we can see the difference on the labels?
You can do that with the hose, assuming your tap water is not super hard. My tap water is...yuck. Would never do that in the South Carolina/Georgia states. GA is worse......Ah, thanks for the explanation! I missed that comment on the 6 flushes. I used to do this with a fairly elaborate setup with a pump and a reservoir of distilled water. I don't have that available to me right now, so thanks for commenting about this. I was considering doing the same as you did, but flush all the color with regular tap water from my hose, and then try to flush that out with the drain/fill with distilled water. I don't know what would happen in that case, but I do know I won't be able to monitor how much tap water is still in the system, like I can the monitor the left-over green coolant color.. Thanks!
I'm sticking with toyota coolant. After the initial charge the maintenance interval drops from 10 yrs/100kmiles to 5 yrs/60kmiles. Since only about a third comes out each drain, I plan on doing it every couple of years to protect the water pump and head gaskets. It's so cheap and fast, why risk damage.Peak has full strength,
But it's more red then pink. If you want pink, get the Toyota fluid,
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Not sure why you're concerned over a few dollars on a service you only do every 100,000 miles.
That's why you do 5-6 drain and refill cycles with distilled water. To get virtually ALL the old coolant out. Then you are good to go for 10 years/100K miles.
I agree with you however ......... I see no mention of testing it afterwards
Honestly, I live in SC and I know I put in 50% concentrate (based on capacity of system in manual.). So roughly 50/50. For my neck of the woods, even if I’m off slightly, not an issue.
Distilled water doesn't have a ph buffer or any cleanup chemistry, I'm weary of just distilled water in my system for multiple reasons. I just bought a 2012 4runner at around 137,000 miles. Previous only owner never replaced coolant based on service records and a visual of fluid. I did 2 drains and fills with 55/45 and running it for a day in between. I wanted to get the new chemistry to help clean up the system. In the summer I will do it again. Our dealers in cold country only carry 55/45, they used to have full strength but don't carry it anymore (my dealer mixed the mix and my corolla's coolant turned to slush at -20F, never been back since). I think even longlife coolant breaks down way before 10 years/100k. I cut that in half with the corolla My hunch is that reports of failed water pumps and even head gaskets, especially in older 4th gen 4runners which have gasket coatings dissolved by coolant (car care nut has a series on 4runner) are due to aged coolant. With 4runner I'm thinking to put this service together with differential and transfer case service every 2 years.
